1 00:00:06,049 --> 00:00:08,356 [upbeat jazz music] 2 00:00:08,399 --> 00:00:10,053 - Hello. 3 00:00:10,097 --> 00:00:13,230 I'm in Puglia, which is the heel-- 4 00:00:13,274 --> 00:00:16,059 can you see me through the olive branches? 5 00:00:16,103 --> 00:00:17,887 They're hard to avoid in Puglia, 6 00:00:17,930 --> 00:00:21,412 a region that's home to 60 million olive trees. 7 00:00:21,456 --> 00:00:25,503 That's one olive tree for every Italian in Italy. 8 00:00:25,547 --> 00:00:27,505 ♪ 9 00:00:27,549 --> 00:00:30,682 This region is Italy at its most elemental-- 10 00:00:30,726 --> 00:00:33,859 simple, fresh cuisine that's grown and produced here, 11 00:00:33,903 --> 00:00:38,299 fragrant olive oil, beautiful vegetables, 12 00:00:38,342 --> 00:00:40,736 cheeses renowned the world over. 13 00:00:40,779 --> 00:00:42,999 [all speaking Italian] 14 00:00:43,043 --> 00:00:44,348 Focaccia. Si. 15 00:00:44,392 --> 00:00:47,003 And durum wheat for pasta and bread. 16 00:00:47,047 --> 00:00:54,097 ♪ 17 00:00:56,273 --> 00:00:57,883 Look at that. 18 00:00:57,927 --> 00:01:04,847 ♪ 19 00:01:04,890 --> 00:01:06,066 [laughter] 20 00:01:06,109 --> 00:01:07,458 I'm Stanley Tucci. 21 00:01:07,502 --> 00:01:09,895 I'm fascinated by my Italian heritage, 22 00:01:09,939 --> 00:01:12,550 so I'm traveling across Italy to discover how 23 00:01:12,594 --> 00:01:15,292 the food in each of this country's 20 regions 24 00:01:15,336 --> 00:01:18,208 is as unique as the people and their past. 25 00:01:18,252 --> 00:01:20,080 You really want it to be like that. 26 00:01:20,123 --> 00:01:21,864 - Need to be like this. 27 00:01:21,907 --> 00:01:23,735 - Despite being such a fertile region, 28 00:01:23,779 --> 00:01:26,564 Puglia is also one of Italy's poorest. 29 00:01:26,608 --> 00:01:28,914 - It was nicknamed the shame of Italy. 30 00:01:28,958 --> 00:01:32,179 - Located in the south, a place the Italians call 31 00:01:32,222 --> 00:01:34,355 Il Mezzogiorno, or "high noon," 32 00:01:34,398 --> 00:01:37,184 because of the intensity of the midday sun, 33 00:01:37,227 --> 00:01:38,924 poverty and hardship are very much 34 00:01:38,968 --> 00:01:41,144 a recent memory in this part of the world. 35 00:01:41,188 --> 00:01:43,886 [speaking Barese] 36 00:01:43,929 --> 00:01:46,584 - But today, Puglia is coming into its own. 37 00:01:46,628 --> 00:01:48,412 There's a newfound sense of pride 38 00:01:48,456 --> 00:01:49,935 for its gastronomic roots... 39 00:01:49,979 --> 00:01:52,590 [both speaking Italian] 40 00:01:52,634 --> 00:01:55,158 And an appreciation for its rugged landscape. 41 00:01:55,202 --> 00:01:58,683 - [speaking Italian] 42 00:01:58,727 --> 00:02:00,076 - [laughs] 43 00:02:00,120 --> 00:02:01,773 So I want to find out how this region 44 00:02:01,817 --> 00:02:04,341 has seemingly gone from rags to riches... 45 00:02:04,385 --> 00:02:06,648 [both speaking Italian] 46 00:02:06,691 --> 00:02:07,997 - Grazie. 47 00:02:08,040 --> 00:02:09,912 - And turned its humblest ingredients 48 00:02:09,955 --> 00:02:12,044 into sources of national pride. 49 00:02:12,088 --> 00:02:13,263 You're very smart, aren't you? 50 00:02:13,307 --> 00:02:16,092 That's it. That's the story. 51 00:02:16,136 --> 00:02:17,267 [chuckles] 52 00:02:17,311 --> 00:02:20,270 [upbeat music] 53 00:02:20,314 --> 00:02:25,145 ♪ 54 00:02:27,538 --> 00:02:30,628 [upbeat jazz music] 55 00:02:30,672 --> 00:02:33,153 Puglia is the heel of Italy's boot, 56 00:02:33,196 --> 00:02:34,632 a long, thin peninsula 57 00:02:34,676 --> 00:02:37,200 with more than 500 miles of coastline. 58 00:02:37,244 --> 00:02:39,246 Puglia's capital, Bari, 59 00:02:39,289 --> 00:02:41,030 sits perched on the eastern coast. 60 00:02:41,073 --> 00:02:45,991 ♪ 61 00:02:46,035 --> 00:02:47,515 Walking around the city, 62 00:02:47,558 --> 00:02:50,648 you're aware of two worlds colliding, 63 00:02:50,692 --> 00:02:52,998 a struggle between the way things have always been done 64 00:02:53,042 --> 00:02:55,958 versus the...delights, shall we say, 65 00:02:56,001 --> 00:02:57,394 of modern bureaucracy. 66 00:02:57,438 --> 00:02:59,701 ♪ 67 00:02:59,744 --> 00:03:02,312 A major trading post since Roman times, 68 00:03:02,356 --> 00:03:05,750 Bari has served as a gateway to Greece, the Middle East, 69 00:03:05,794 --> 00:03:07,839 and beyond. 70 00:03:07,883 --> 00:03:10,842 Port cities are notorious for hustlers and crime, 71 00:03:10,886 --> 00:03:13,671 and while Bari may have seen its fair share of that, 72 00:03:13,715 --> 00:03:16,544 if you look a little closer, the city reveals 73 00:03:16,587 --> 00:03:18,720 its distinctive charm... 74 00:03:18,763 --> 00:03:20,722 - [chuckling] 75 00:03:20,765 --> 00:03:23,681 ♪ 76 00:03:23,725 --> 00:03:26,510 - Something author and guide Sophie Minchilli 77 00:03:26,554 --> 00:03:28,338 has a longstanding respect for. 78 00:03:28,382 --> 00:03:29,513 - Hi, Stan. - Hi. 79 00:03:29,557 --> 00:03:30,688 How are you? - Good. 80 00:03:30,732 --> 00:03:31,950 How are you? Welcome to Bari. 81 00:03:31,994 --> 00:03:33,125 - Oh, thank you very much. 82 00:03:33,169 --> 00:03:34,605 Do you live here now or no? 83 00:03:34,649 --> 00:03:35,911 - I don't live here, but my dad grew up in 84 00:03:35,954 --> 00:03:37,347 the building right behind you. - In this one? 85 00:03:37,391 --> 00:03:38,870 He grew up there? - Yeah. 86 00:03:38,914 --> 00:03:40,045 - Really? 87 00:03:40,089 --> 00:03:41,525 - My great grandparents were architects. 88 00:03:41,569 --> 00:03:44,136 They did the building and the whole seafront. 89 00:03:44,180 --> 00:03:45,312 - Wow. - Pretty cool. 90 00:03:45,355 --> 00:03:46,574 - Yeah, that is pretty cool. - Yeah. 91 00:03:46,617 --> 00:03:47,879 - Yes, you're very... - I'm proud. 92 00:03:47,923 --> 00:03:49,316 - Connected to the city. Yeah. - Yeah, I am. 93 00:03:49,359 --> 00:03:50,795 [both speaking Italian] 94 00:03:50,839 --> 00:03:53,145 - Sophie's first taking me to Bari's port 95 00:03:53,189 --> 00:03:56,148 to see one of the most ancient but not strictly legal 96 00:03:56,192 --> 00:03:58,063 Barese institutions, 97 00:03:58,107 --> 00:04:00,936 the fishermen of Molo San Nicola. 98 00:04:00,979 --> 00:04:02,764 - It's sort of semi-legal, let's say. 99 00:04:02,807 --> 00:04:05,462 They don't really have a permit to sell fish. 100 00:04:05,506 --> 00:04:06,681 They sell it anyways. 101 00:04:06,724 --> 00:04:08,726 [laughs] - But nobody chases them away? 102 00:04:08,770 --> 00:04:10,554 - No. They've tried over the years, 103 00:04:10,598 --> 00:04:11,729 but they still stay strong. 104 00:04:11,773 --> 00:04:14,079 - They stay. - Yeah. [laughs] 105 00:04:14,123 --> 00:04:17,082 - In an industry that's increasingly regulated, 106 00:04:17,126 --> 00:04:20,651 these fishermen are determined to continue trading. 107 00:04:20,695 --> 00:04:23,959 [fishermen speaking Barese] 108 00:04:25,090 --> 00:04:27,267 - They speak a strong Barese dialect 109 00:04:27,310 --> 00:04:30,357 that even most Italians would struggle to understand, 110 00:04:30,400 --> 00:04:31,967 competing with each other to sell 111 00:04:32,010 --> 00:04:34,709 a wide array of seafood to passersby. 112 00:04:36,972 --> 00:04:38,060 Ciao, ciao, ciao. 113 00:04:38,103 --> 00:04:39,366 - It's really typical in Bari 114 00:04:39,409 --> 00:04:40,932 to eat raw seafood, in general. 115 00:04:40,976 --> 00:04:42,934 They call it the sushi of Italy. 116 00:04:42,978 --> 00:04:45,720 - The Barese have been eating raw seafood here 117 00:04:45,763 --> 00:04:48,462 as far back as the 1500s. 118 00:04:53,467 --> 00:04:54,598 - So they're called tagliatelle 119 00:04:54,642 --> 00:04:55,686 because they're cut in thin strip-- 120 00:04:55,730 --> 00:04:57,166 - 'Cause they look like tagliatelle. 121 00:04:57,209 --> 00:04:58,123 - But they're not, obviously. 122 00:04:58,167 --> 00:04:59,647 - But it's octopus. 123 00:04:59,690 --> 00:05:00,822 Right? Is it octopus? 124 00:05:00,865 --> 00:05:01,953 - It's squid. - It's squid. 125 00:05:01,997 --> 00:05:03,477 - Yeah. 126 00:05:03,520 --> 00:05:05,783 - To prep the squid, the fishermen beat it 127 00:05:05,827 --> 00:05:08,438 to tenderize it, then rock it in seawater 128 00:05:08,482 --> 00:05:10,658 to help retain its shape and texture. 129 00:05:13,487 --> 00:05:14,575 - Do you understand anything? - Not at all. 130 00:05:14,618 --> 00:05:15,967 - It's almost impossible. 131 00:05:16,011 --> 00:05:17,142 It's another language. 132 00:05:17,186 --> 00:05:18,796 - It is another language, yeah. 133 00:05:18,840 --> 00:05:20,145 - Ready to try some? - Yes, oh, yes. 134 00:05:20,189 --> 00:05:21,146 - It's delicious. 135 00:05:21,190 --> 00:05:22,104 I love it. 136 00:05:24,541 --> 00:05:26,413 - Oh, I think he wants that-- 137 00:05:26,456 --> 00:05:27,631 - Si. 138 00:05:27,675 --> 00:05:29,111 - He wants us to go eat it over there. 139 00:05:29,154 --> 00:05:30,373 We can't eat it right here. - Ah. Grazie. 140 00:05:30,417 --> 00:05:32,157 - Grazie. - Thank you. 141 00:05:32,201 --> 00:05:33,898 Thank you. Thank you. 142 00:05:33,942 --> 00:05:35,204 Police tolerate 143 00:05:35,247 --> 00:05:36,988 the fishermen selling fish here. 144 00:05:37,032 --> 00:05:39,861 Just don't get seen eating it anywhere near them. 145 00:05:39,904 --> 00:05:41,819 - You never know how many of them there will be, 146 00:05:41,863 --> 00:05:43,647 but there's always someone selling fish. 147 00:05:43,691 --> 00:05:44,996 - Okay, let's try it. 148 00:05:45,040 --> 00:05:46,694 I mean, all right. 149 00:05:46,737 --> 00:05:48,130 - So, yeah, you just eat it. 150 00:05:50,480 --> 00:05:51,655 Chewy. 151 00:05:51,699 --> 00:05:53,875 - Yeah, but it's not that chewy. 152 00:05:53,918 --> 00:05:55,093 - No. - It's not that bad. 153 00:05:55,137 --> 00:05:56,225 - I know. It's good, right? 154 00:05:56,268 --> 00:05:58,009 - No, with the lemon, yeah. - Yeah. 155 00:05:58,053 --> 00:05:59,054 - Do you want more? 156 00:05:59,097 --> 00:06:00,360 - Sure. 157 00:06:00,403 --> 00:06:01,404 - Do I want more? 158 00:06:01,448 --> 00:06:02,536 - If you like it. 159 00:06:02,579 --> 00:06:03,841 - I do like it, actually. 160 00:06:03,885 --> 00:06:06,017 I didn't--I didn't expect to like it. 161 00:06:06,061 --> 00:06:07,367 [soft piano music] 162 00:06:07,410 --> 00:06:09,151 A few minutes' walk from Lungomare, 163 00:06:09,194 --> 00:06:11,501 and we're in the Old Town of Bari, 164 00:06:11,545 --> 00:06:13,024 Bari Vecchia. 165 00:06:13,068 --> 00:06:14,199 - It's like a maze. 166 00:06:14,243 --> 00:06:15,505 Like, the further you get into it, 167 00:06:15,549 --> 00:06:17,942 it's all little alleyways like this and arches. 168 00:06:17,986 --> 00:06:19,291 - Yeah. 169 00:06:19,335 --> 00:06:21,206 - When I was a kid, it was actually considered 170 00:06:21,250 --> 00:06:23,208 sort of dangerous to come to the old part of Bari. 171 00:06:23,252 --> 00:06:24,645 - Oh, really? 172 00:06:24,688 --> 00:06:25,733 - And now, I think this is one of the most 173 00:06:25,776 --> 00:06:28,083 beautiful roads in Italy. 174 00:06:28,126 --> 00:06:31,478 - Some 6,000 people form a tight-knit community here, 175 00:06:31,521 --> 00:06:33,088 where the reality of life 176 00:06:33,131 --> 00:06:35,438 is in evidence everywhere you look. 177 00:06:35,482 --> 00:06:36,874 - No separation. 178 00:06:36,918 --> 00:06:38,223 I mean, that's the space... - No. 179 00:06:38,267 --> 00:06:39,224 - They have, and they make the most. 180 00:06:39,268 --> 00:06:40,225 - Yeah. Yeah. 181 00:06:40,269 --> 00:06:41,662 - Their laundry's outside. 182 00:06:41,705 --> 00:06:43,011 But the underwear is always behind. 183 00:06:43,054 --> 00:06:43,968 Nobody sees it. 184 00:06:44,012 --> 00:06:45,187 - Oh, really? - [laughs] Yeah. 185 00:06:45,230 --> 00:06:46,928 If you look--if you look, you know it is. 186 00:06:46,971 --> 00:06:48,233 The underwear's always behind. 187 00:06:48,277 --> 00:06:49,887 ♪ 188 00:06:49,931 --> 00:06:52,237 It's about 2,000 years old, so it is really old. 189 00:06:52,281 --> 00:06:53,717 - It's pretty old, yeah. 190 00:06:53,761 --> 00:06:55,763 The list of powers that have invaded Bari 191 00:06:55,806 --> 00:06:57,721 is as long as your arm, 192 00:06:57,765 --> 00:06:59,288 and after centuries under siege, 193 00:06:59,331 --> 00:07:01,769 the Barese could be forgiven for developing 194 00:07:01,812 --> 00:07:03,901 a certain disdain for whatever authority 195 00:07:03,945 --> 00:07:06,426 happened to replace the previous one. 196 00:07:06,469 --> 00:07:08,602 [man speaking Italian] 197 00:07:08,645 --> 00:07:09,951 - What'd he say? 198 00:07:09,994 --> 00:07:11,518 - "Take a picture of me holding the beer." 199 00:07:11,561 --> 00:07:13,084 - [laughing] 200 00:07:13,128 --> 00:07:14,608 ♪ 201 00:07:14,651 --> 00:07:16,784 - Now we're walking through Arco Basso, 202 00:07:16,827 --> 00:07:19,439 which is also known as the Orecchiette Road. 203 00:07:19,482 --> 00:07:20,744 - Orecchiette Road. 204 00:07:20,788 --> 00:07:22,529 - Because you'll see there's a lot of women 205 00:07:22,572 --> 00:07:24,618 making orecchiette. - Orecchiette. 206 00:07:24,661 --> 00:07:26,924 With many of their husbands out at sea, 207 00:07:26,968 --> 00:07:28,926 the women were left to fend for themselves 208 00:07:28,970 --> 00:07:32,103 and provide for the family. 209 00:07:32,147 --> 00:07:35,455 Around the 1950s, they started making orecchiette, 210 00:07:35,498 --> 00:07:38,588 or "little ears," to sell from their homes. 211 00:07:38,632 --> 00:07:40,068 But a few years ago, 212 00:07:40,111 --> 00:07:42,592 the council tried to stop their trade. 213 00:07:42,636 --> 00:07:44,507 - For hygiene purposes, you can't really 214 00:07:44,551 --> 00:07:45,813 be making pasta out of your home 215 00:07:45,856 --> 00:07:47,641 and selling it to people at restaurants. 216 00:07:47,684 --> 00:07:49,947 But just like the fish market, they... 217 00:07:49,991 --> 00:07:52,123 - They just kept going. - They stayed strong. 218 00:07:52,167 --> 00:07:54,952 - Orecchiette for these ladies are a way of life. 219 00:07:54,996 --> 00:07:57,128 And while they can't sell to restaurants, 220 00:07:57,172 --> 00:07:58,782 they fought back and won the right 221 00:07:58,826 --> 00:08:00,784 to sell for personal use. 222 00:08:00,828 --> 00:08:03,047 - Now they actually have a role in society. 223 00:08:03,091 --> 00:08:04,222 They're bringing money to the neighborhood. 224 00:08:04,266 --> 00:08:06,703 - Yeah. Sure. Yeah. - They're working. 225 00:08:06,747 --> 00:08:09,445 - The more time I spend here, the more I see 226 00:08:09,489 --> 00:08:12,317 that the Barese are doing things their own way. 227 00:08:12,361 --> 00:08:16,278 ♪ 228 00:08:16,321 --> 00:08:18,889 A few minutes away, Sophie wants to introduce me 229 00:08:18,933 --> 00:08:22,980 to a dish that's full of Barese attitude. 230 00:08:23,024 --> 00:08:26,549 At Urban Bistro, Chef Celso Laforgia 231 00:08:26,593 --> 00:08:28,725 makes a dish unique to the city 232 00:08:28,769 --> 00:08:31,728 and one that you'll find nowhere else in Italy. 233 00:08:31,772 --> 00:08:33,991 Why is it called "assassina"? 234 00:08:34,035 --> 00:08:36,559 - Because the ones who tried for the first time, 235 00:08:36,603 --> 00:08:38,822 he called the chef a killer. 236 00:08:38,866 --> 00:08:40,171 - Oh, because it was so spicy. 237 00:08:40,215 --> 00:08:42,696 - Because it was so spicy and burning. 238 00:08:42,739 --> 00:08:44,611 - How do you make it? - I can--I can start? 239 00:08:44,654 --> 00:08:45,655 - Yeah, go! - Yeah? 240 00:08:45,699 --> 00:08:46,787 Okay, you start with olive oil. 241 00:08:46,830 --> 00:08:49,006 - Yes. - Chili. 242 00:08:49,050 --> 00:08:51,008 If you prefer more spice and more-- 243 00:08:51,052 --> 00:08:52,662 - Me, no. - So we put that-- 244 00:08:52,706 --> 00:08:54,577 - Just a little bit. - Gentle. 245 00:08:54,621 --> 00:08:56,536 - The two things that you need to do it 246 00:08:56,579 --> 00:08:59,756 is a powerful fire and a big pot. 247 00:08:59,800 --> 00:09:01,192 - To fit the whole spaghetti. 248 00:09:01,236 --> 00:09:02,585 - So you're just putting in raw spaghetti? 249 00:09:02,629 --> 00:09:04,065 - Yes. 250 00:09:04,108 --> 00:09:07,024 - Pasta is basically never cooked this way. 251 00:09:07,068 --> 00:09:09,984 - And then we put hot water and tomato sauce. 252 00:09:10,027 --> 00:09:11,028 - Like a marinara, sort of. 253 00:09:11,072 --> 00:09:13,117 - Like a marinara sauce, yes. 254 00:09:13,161 --> 00:09:15,772 - The trick is to burn it enough to make it crunchy 255 00:09:15,816 --> 00:09:17,600 but not so much that it's bitter. 256 00:09:17,644 --> 00:09:18,862 - So it's gone. 257 00:09:18,906 --> 00:09:20,342 - Oh, my God. - Look at that. 258 00:09:20,385 --> 00:09:23,432 - So it really is--you really want it to be like that. 259 00:09:23,475 --> 00:09:24,738 - Yes, it needs to be, 260 00:09:24,781 --> 00:09:26,740 if you want to call assassina. 261 00:09:26,783 --> 00:09:29,917 - Celso's method goes against everything I've ever learned 262 00:09:29,960 --> 00:09:32,876 about cooking pasta, taking it dangerously close 263 00:09:32,920 --> 00:09:34,312 to complete incineration. 264 00:09:34,356 --> 00:09:35,662 - Different colors, different textures. 265 00:09:35,705 --> 00:09:37,577 - And the key to knowing it's ready? 266 00:09:37,620 --> 00:09:39,274 Use your ears. 267 00:09:39,317 --> 00:09:42,320 - [speaking Italian] 268 00:09:53,505 --> 00:09:55,769 - Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. 269 00:09:55,812 --> 00:10:02,950 ♪ 270 00:10:17,965 --> 00:10:19,880 - Oh, now I'm getting the picante a little bit. 271 00:10:19,923 --> 00:10:21,229 - A little bit? - Just a little. 272 00:10:21,272 --> 00:10:22,665 - I'm sweating. 273 00:10:22,709 --> 00:10:23,797 Wow, that's really great, Celso. 274 00:10:23,840 --> 00:10:24,928 - Thank you very much. 275 00:10:24,972 --> 00:10:26,364 - Honestly, I've never seen 276 00:10:26,408 --> 00:10:28,105 anything like that before. 277 00:10:28,149 --> 00:10:28,932 I love that. 278 00:10:28,976 --> 00:10:30,630 And I've been around too. 279 00:10:30,673 --> 00:10:31,631 [upbeat jazz music] 280 00:10:31,674 --> 00:10:33,502 The assassina is a dish 281 00:10:33,545 --> 00:10:36,244 that could have only been created in a city like this. 282 00:10:36,287 --> 00:10:39,508 Like its people, it's fiery, uncompromising, 283 00:10:39,551 --> 00:10:41,249 and it breaks all the rules. 284 00:10:41,292 --> 00:10:44,948 ♪ 285 00:10:47,559 --> 00:10:49,518 [upbeat jazz music] 286 00:10:49,561 --> 00:10:51,912 [birds chirping] 287 00:10:51,955 --> 00:10:55,045 [both speaking Italian] 288 00:10:58,527 --> 00:11:00,224 Wow. 289 00:11:00,268 --> 00:11:02,183 Beyond its many agricultural riches, 290 00:11:02,226 --> 00:11:06,013 Puglia's most prized contribution has to be wheat, 291 00:11:06,056 --> 00:11:08,319 something local chef Pietro Zito 292 00:11:08,363 --> 00:11:11,061 has developed a unique appreciation for. 293 00:11:17,241 --> 00:11:20,157 - We're in the north, in the Foggia province, 294 00:11:20,201 --> 00:11:23,030 known as the breadbasket of Italy 295 00:11:23,073 --> 00:11:25,423 because it produces more durum wheat 296 00:11:25,467 --> 00:11:28,557 than anywhere else in the country. 297 00:11:28,600 --> 00:11:29,689 But that wasn't always 298 00:11:29,732 --> 00:11:31,691 the case. 299 00:11:32,866 --> 00:11:34,041 - Yeah, it's nice. 300 00:11:38,349 --> 00:11:39,699 - Si. 301 00:11:39,742 --> 00:11:41,570 Like most people in this part of Puglia, 302 00:11:41,613 --> 00:11:44,181 Pietro Zito's connection to wheat goes back 303 00:11:44,225 --> 00:11:47,358 to Benito Mussolini's reforms in the 1920s. 304 00:11:54,801 --> 00:11:55,932 - Si. 305 00:12:03,113 --> 00:12:05,463 - Mussolini thought self-sufficiency 306 00:12:05,507 --> 00:12:07,552 through increased food production 307 00:12:07,596 --> 00:12:10,947 was key to establishing Italy as a world power, 308 00:12:10,991 --> 00:12:12,514 but in reality, 309 00:12:12,557 --> 00:12:14,908 what the farmers actually received 310 00:12:14,951 --> 00:12:17,649 were often inferior plots of land. 311 00:12:17,693 --> 00:12:20,435 [crowd shouting indistinctly] 312 00:12:20,478 --> 00:12:23,046 Unconcerned, Mussolini pushed ahead 313 00:12:23,090 --> 00:12:25,222 with his expansionist ambitions. 314 00:12:25,266 --> 00:12:27,050 And he took to the fields himself, 315 00:12:27,094 --> 00:12:29,400 displaying his wheat-threshing muscle 316 00:12:29,444 --> 00:12:32,621 in a bid to persuade Italian farmers to persevere 317 00:12:32,664 --> 00:12:34,884 with the land they were given. 318 00:12:34,928 --> 00:12:37,408 In the end, Mussolini's aspirations 319 00:12:37,452 --> 00:12:40,760 dragged Italy and her people first into war, 320 00:12:40,803 --> 00:12:42,413 then into recession, 321 00:12:42,457 --> 00:12:44,241 with the poorest left to survive 322 00:12:44,285 --> 00:12:46,896 by scavenging for whatever they could find in the fields, 323 00:12:46,940 --> 00:12:49,943 even remnants of burnt wheat. 324 00:12:57,124 --> 00:12:59,387 - To prepare fields for the next seeding, 325 00:12:59,430 --> 00:13:01,563 any straw left over after harvest 326 00:13:01,606 --> 00:13:04,131 used to be cleared by burning it off. 327 00:13:23,628 --> 00:13:26,631 - The stigma of having to resort to such extremes 328 00:13:26,675 --> 00:13:28,372 would linger for decades. 329 00:13:45,259 --> 00:13:47,130 - But Pietro is on a mission 330 00:13:47,174 --> 00:13:49,089 to revive these simple flavors. 331 00:13:50,481 --> 00:13:51,743 - Buongiorno. 332 00:13:51,787 --> 00:13:54,921 - And his friend Nicola L'Agrasta 333 00:13:54,964 --> 00:13:58,663 has developed a modern technique for recreating it. 334 00:13:58,707 --> 00:14:01,623 - [speaking Italian] 335 00:14:09,500 --> 00:14:11,285 - Toasting the grain is a delicate, 336 00:14:11,328 --> 00:14:14,027 yet labor intensive process. 337 00:14:15,419 --> 00:14:17,334 - But it produces a dark flour 338 00:14:17,378 --> 00:14:19,510 which can be used for making bread 339 00:14:19,554 --> 00:14:22,426 as well as the Puglian snack taralli, 340 00:14:22,470 --> 00:14:24,907 a kind of cross between a cracker and a breadstick. 341 00:14:24,951 --> 00:14:26,039 With some of the... 342 00:14:30,391 --> 00:14:32,045 - Yeah. - Yeah. Yeah. 343 00:14:32,088 --> 00:14:33,611 [dog barking] 344 00:14:33,655 --> 00:14:34,612 They're really good. 345 00:14:35,744 --> 00:14:37,789 - Mmm. Mmm. 346 00:14:37,833 --> 00:14:39,052 They're really good. 347 00:14:40,662 --> 00:14:43,230 The flour is used to make dark pasta, 348 00:14:43,273 --> 00:14:45,232 which Pietro prepares for his restaurant 349 00:14:45,275 --> 00:14:48,713 Antichi Sapori, or "Ancient Flavors," 350 00:14:48,757 --> 00:14:50,367 in the town of Montegrosso, 351 00:14:50,411 --> 00:14:52,500 with the help of a local expert. 352 00:14:56,591 --> 00:14:58,636 Using a mixture of burnt and white grain 353 00:14:58,680 --> 00:15:00,377 to ensure the flavor is not too bitter, 354 00:15:00,421 --> 00:15:02,727 Concetta crafts each individual orecchiette 355 00:15:02,771 --> 00:15:04,033 by hand. 356 00:15:04,077 --> 00:15:05,643 Her kitchen days may be behind her, 357 00:15:05,687 --> 00:15:07,689 but she still has plenty of advice for the chefs. 358 00:15:15,653 --> 00:15:16,654 - No, no, no, no, no. 359 00:15:19,788 --> 00:15:21,094 Pietro's going to show me 360 00:15:21,137 --> 00:15:22,791 how he prepares his signature dish, 361 00:15:22,834 --> 00:15:25,968 burnt grain orecchiette in a cream of fava beans, 362 00:15:26,012 --> 00:15:28,971 topped with burrata and charred black olives. 363 00:15:29,798 --> 00:15:30,930 - Si. 364 00:15:49,122 --> 00:15:50,297 - Si. 365 00:15:55,693 --> 00:15:56,651 Si. 366 00:16:04,093 --> 00:16:05,616 - Oh, it's beautiful. 367 00:16:05,660 --> 00:16:07,618 Fava beans are a favorite staple of Puglia. 368 00:16:07,662 --> 00:16:10,143 But cooked with onions and blended with oil, 369 00:16:10,186 --> 00:16:12,406 they become smooth and creamy. 370 00:16:24,070 --> 00:16:25,201 - Mm-hmm. 371 00:16:28,813 --> 00:16:29,989 - Mm-hmm. 372 00:16:39,999 --> 00:16:41,087 - Yeah. 373 00:16:41,957 --> 00:16:43,524 - [laughs] 374 00:16:46,875 --> 00:16:48,007 - Yeah. 375 00:16:55,492 --> 00:16:56,667 - [laughs] 376 00:16:59,714 --> 00:17:01,803 Oh, come on. 377 00:17:05,024 --> 00:17:06,155 - That is amazing. 378 00:17:06,199 --> 00:17:08,418 Yep. Yep. Yep. 379 00:17:08,462 --> 00:17:10,029 Oh, my God, that's so good. 380 00:17:10,072 --> 00:17:11,160 Thank you. 381 00:17:15,251 --> 00:17:16,818 - Yeah. Oh, yeah. 382 00:17:20,735 --> 00:17:22,606 But it's so unusual. 383 00:17:22,650 --> 00:17:24,565 Pietro has revived these flavors 384 00:17:24,608 --> 00:17:26,654 with such skill and affection 385 00:17:26,697 --> 00:17:28,438 that, despite their humble origins, 386 00:17:28,482 --> 00:17:32,486 his dishes now hold their own as world class cuisine. 387 00:17:36,403 --> 00:17:38,448 There's a dignity to his approach, 388 00:17:38,492 --> 00:17:41,669 and if his packed restaurant is anything to go by, 389 00:17:41,712 --> 00:17:44,889 it's welcomed by the whole community. 390 00:17:44,933 --> 00:17:47,370 ♪ 391 00:17:49,981 --> 00:17:52,897 [upbeat jazz music] 392 00:17:52,941 --> 00:17:54,203 ♪ 393 00:17:54,247 --> 00:17:55,726 - As we're driving through Puglia, 394 00:17:55,770 --> 00:17:58,947 you see these buildings that are ubiquitous, 395 00:17:58,990 --> 00:18:00,209 called trulli, 396 00:18:00,253 --> 00:18:02,603 and they're these conical-shaped buildings 397 00:18:02,646 --> 00:18:04,561 with a little finial on top. 398 00:18:04,605 --> 00:18:07,564 And they're built that way because, in the 14th century, 399 00:18:07,608 --> 00:18:09,479 there were very high property taxes. 400 00:18:09,523 --> 00:18:13,222 When the tax man come around, they would basically 401 00:18:13,266 --> 00:18:15,137 deconstruct the top of the house, 402 00:18:15,181 --> 00:18:17,357 and then you weren't taxed on your house 403 00:18:17,400 --> 00:18:18,706 if it hadn't been completed. 404 00:18:18,749 --> 00:18:20,229 And then the tax man would leave, 405 00:18:20,273 --> 00:18:22,188 and then they would rebuild the house again. 406 00:18:22,231 --> 00:18:24,146 They don't take them apart anymore. 407 00:18:24,190 --> 00:18:26,583 That's it. That's the story. 408 00:18:26,627 --> 00:18:28,324 [chuckles] 409 00:18:28,368 --> 00:18:30,500 They're so cool, though. 410 00:18:30,544 --> 00:18:33,851 No place else in the world really has--has them. 411 00:18:33,895 --> 00:18:36,289 These little cone-shaped clusters of houses 412 00:18:36,332 --> 00:18:39,118 tell you something about the people here. 413 00:18:39,161 --> 00:18:41,990 They were nearly always built in groups of four or five, 414 00:18:42,033 --> 00:18:44,601 so families could share not just the land, 415 00:18:44,645 --> 00:18:47,604 but things like wells and communal ovens. 416 00:18:47,648 --> 00:18:50,651 One of the main towns in the Valle dei Trulli 417 00:18:50,694 --> 00:18:52,609 is Cisternino. 418 00:18:52,653 --> 00:18:53,915 ♪ 419 00:18:53,958 --> 00:18:55,612 Among its labyrinth of alleyways 420 00:18:55,656 --> 00:18:57,484 and whitewashed buildings, 421 00:18:57,527 --> 00:19:00,400 you'll find Puglians going for a passeggiata, 422 00:19:00,443 --> 00:19:03,620 the age-old tradition of taking a stroll. 423 00:19:03,664 --> 00:19:05,274 And if you follow your nose, 424 00:19:05,318 --> 00:19:07,146 chances are you'll stumble across 425 00:19:07,189 --> 00:19:08,538 one of the many fornellis, 426 00:19:08,582 --> 00:19:10,758 like Bère Vecchie, 427 00:19:10,801 --> 00:19:13,717 run by young restaurateur Vito Zurlo. 428 00:19:13,761 --> 00:19:17,156 ♪ 429 00:19:17,199 --> 00:19:20,289 [both speaking Italian] 430 00:19:21,203 --> 00:19:23,945 - Si.[laughs] 431 00:19:23,988 --> 00:19:26,774 Opened by Vito's grandfather in 1927, 432 00:19:26,817 --> 00:19:29,907 this fornello isn't your average butcher shop, 433 00:19:29,951 --> 00:19:31,779 but we'll get into that in a minute. 434 00:19:39,874 --> 00:19:40,831 - Wow. 435 00:19:41,876 --> 00:19:42,920 - Si. 436 00:19:42,964 --> 00:19:44,661 Cisternino's fornelli grew 437 00:19:44,705 --> 00:19:46,097 from the ancient tradition 438 00:19:46,141 --> 00:19:48,665 of communal feasting at village fairs. 439 00:19:48,709 --> 00:19:50,493 So keeping that tradition alive, 440 00:19:50,537 --> 00:19:53,235 the modern fornelli don't just sell the meat. 441 00:19:53,279 --> 00:19:55,368 They cook it for you on the spot. 442 00:19:58,893 --> 00:20:00,068 - Bombette. 443 00:20:00,111 --> 00:20:02,549 Bombette means "little bomb," 444 00:20:02,592 --> 00:20:04,420 a reference to the explosion of flavor 445 00:20:04,464 --> 00:20:05,856 that comes from cooking 446 00:20:05,900 --> 00:20:07,945 the tastiest strips of fatty pork neck 447 00:20:07,989 --> 00:20:10,948 filled with, well, just about anything. 448 00:20:24,745 --> 00:20:26,268 - The fat from the pork netting 449 00:20:26,312 --> 00:20:28,444 enhances the flavor of the offcuts 450 00:20:28,488 --> 00:20:30,968 used in these gnummareddi rolls. 451 00:20:31,012 --> 00:20:34,450 So what started out as a snack created from affordable meat 452 00:20:34,494 --> 00:20:36,713 that would otherwise be discarded 453 00:20:36,757 --> 00:20:39,499 has evolved into a local delicacy. 454 00:20:40,804 --> 00:20:41,805 - Okay, great. 455 00:20:47,942 --> 00:20:48,856 - Si, si, si. 456 00:20:51,337 --> 00:20:52,599 - Si, si. 457 00:20:59,519 --> 00:21:01,129 - Si, si, si. 458 00:21:01,172 --> 00:21:03,523 The same type of oven used hundreds of years ago 459 00:21:03,566 --> 00:21:05,394 is still used today. 460 00:21:05,438 --> 00:21:09,093 With indirect heat ensuring everything gets cooked evenly, 461 00:21:09,137 --> 00:21:11,618 they load the fattiest cuts at the top 462 00:21:11,661 --> 00:21:13,968 so the meat below is completely drenched 463 00:21:14,011 --> 00:21:15,752 in the delicious juices. 464 00:21:15,796 --> 00:21:18,799 ♪ 465 00:21:18,842 --> 00:21:20,931 And after just 15 minutes... 466 00:21:24,718 --> 00:21:25,719 - Wow. 467 00:21:28,025 --> 00:21:28,983 The first one-- 468 00:21:34,031 --> 00:21:34,945 - Really? - Si. 469 00:21:36,991 --> 00:21:38,862 - Okay, then I have to try this one. 470 00:21:42,301 --> 00:21:43,258 - Mmm. 471 00:21:43,302 --> 00:21:45,304 Mmm. Okay. 472 00:21:46,261 --> 00:21:47,871 That is really good. 473 00:21:47,915 --> 00:21:50,352 That's like-- that's like perfect. 474 00:21:50,396 --> 00:21:51,919 All that fat. 475 00:21:52,920 --> 00:21:54,051 I love that. 476 00:21:58,795 --> 00:22:00,449 - Mm, no. 477 00:22:01,842 --> 00:22:03,104 - Mm-hmm. 478 00:22:08,936 --> 00:22:09,937 - Really? 479 00:22:17,205 --> 00:22:18,554 - [laughs] 480 00:22:22,253 --> 00:22:25,431 - And with the gnummareddi to finish things off... 481 00:22:25,474 --> 00:22:26,954 It's good. 482 00:22:26,997 --> 00:22:29,522 My want for protein is well and truly sated. 483 00:22:31,698 --> 00:22:34,483 - Si. - Oh. I can breathe easy. 484 00:22:34,527 --> 00:22:36,529 ♪ 485 00:22:36,572 --> 00:22:38,705 Way more than just a festival of meat, 486 00:22:38,748 --> 00:22:40,576 what these fornelli really celebrate 487 00:22:40,620 --> 00:22:44,406 is something that people here cottoned onto a long time ago. 488 00:22:44,450 --> 00:22:46,582 [indistinct chatter] 489 00:22:46,626 --> 00:22:48,192 - [speaking Italian] - Grazie. Grazie. 490 00:22:48,236 --> 00:22:50,281 That no matter what you're consuming, 491 00:22:50,325 --> 00:22:51,674 it tastes a lot better 492 00:22:51,718 --> 00:22:53,850 when you share it with someone else. 493 00:22:53,894 --> 00:22:58,681 ♪ 494 00:23:01,292 --> 00:23:04,557 [upbeat music] 495 00:23:04,600 --> 00:23:06,733 - In the Andrea area of Puglia, 496 00:23:06,776 --> 00:23:09,170 nestled among a sea of olive trees, 497 00:23:09,213 --> 00:23:12,391 is the Petroni Olive Farm. 498 00:23:12,434 --> 00:23:15,698 ♪ 499 00:23:15,742 --> 00:23:18,092 Here, Agostino Petroni and his family 500 00:23:18,135 --> 00:23:23,532 tend to over 13,000 trees all planted by his father. 501 00:23:23,576 --> 00:23:24,838 - We use olive oil 502 00:23:24,881 --> 00:23:27,014 for literally everything in our cuisine. 503 00:23:27,057 --> 00:23:29,582 Whenever I travel around the world, 504 00:23:29,625 --> 00:23:30,887 both me and my brother, we always have 505 00:23:30,931 --> 00:23:32,019 a little can of our olive oil. 506 00:23:32,062 --> 00:23:33,629 - You do travel with it? - Yeah. 507 00:23:33,673 --> 00:23:35,196 No olive oil? - I-- 508 00:23:35,239 --> 00:23:37,024 - You cannot just like, please, take this away. 509 00:23:37,067 --> 00:23:38,112 I don't want it anymore. 510 00:23:38,155 --> 00:23:39,374 - Look-- look who you're talking to. 511 00:23:39,418 --> 00:23:40,941 I'm--you know, I'm obsessed with it, yeah. 512 00:23:40,984 --> 00:23:41,985 Yeah. 513 00:23:42,029 --> 00:23:43,030 ♪ 514 00:23:43,073 --> 00:23:44,161 - I mean, in front of us, 515 00:23:44,205 --> 00:23:46,555 we have about 2 million olive trees. 516 00:23:46,599 --> 00:23:49,079 Andrea produces as much as Tuscany, 517 00:23:49,123 --> 00:23:50,951 to give you an idea. 518 00:23:50,994 --> 00:23:52,300 - Whoa. 519 00:23:52,343 --> 00:23:53,606 That's huge. - Yeah. 520 00:23:53,649 --> 00:23:57,087 And we actually sell lots of olives to Tuscany. 521 00:23:57,131 --> 00:23:59,655 - And they put it in their olive oil? 522 00:23:59,699 --> 00:24:01,004 - Yeah. - I won't tell. 523 00:24:01,048 --> 00:24:03,833 - I should not say this. - I won't tell anybody. 524 00:24:03,877 --> 00:24:05,052 Wow. 525 00:24:05,095 --> 00:24:06,096 [upbeat music] 526 00:24:06,140 --> 00:24:07,968 The taste of Puglian olive oil 527 00:24:08,011 --> 00:24:09,448 is exceptional. 528 00:24:09,491 --> 00:24:12,059 Terrain, climate, and mineral-rich soil 529 00:24:12,102 --> 00:24:14,975 combine here to create a unique peppery flavor 530 00:24:15,018 --> 00:24:17,760 that's revered the world over. 531 00:24:17,804 --> 00:24:20,502 It's way more than just a source of Puglian pride. 532 00:24:20,546 --> 00:24:23,287 With some 60 million trees being harvested to produce 533 00:24:23,331 --> 00:24:28,510 over 50% of Italy's supply, Puglian oil production employs 534 00:24:28,554 --> 00:24:29,859 a huge number of people-- 535 00:24:29,903 --> 00:24:34,342 over 100,000 in this region alone, 536 00:24:34,385 --> 00:24:36,257 which is why it's so disturbing to discover 537 00:24:36,300 --> 00:24:39,303 that this thriving historic industry is under attack 538 00:24:39,347 --> 00:24:41,697 from a ruthless invader. 539 00:24:41,741 --> 00:24:45,135 The first casualties are 150 miles away 540 00:24:45,179 --> 00:24:48,530 in the wild reaches of Salento. 541 00:24:48,574 --> 00:24:51,141 It's so far south, the Romans never even bothered 542 00:24:51,185 --> 00:24:54,536 building roads here. 543 00:24:54,580 --> 00:24:56,930 - As you can see, everything is dead. 544 00:24:56,973 --> 00:24:58,453 - Yeah, completely dead. - Yeah. 545 00:24:58,497 --> 00:24:59,933 - And these are ancient trees? 546 00:24:59,976 --> 00:25:04,764 - These are about 800 years old to 1,000 years old. 547 00:25:04,807 --> 00:25:06,505 - Having watched over the community 548 00:25:06,548 --> 00:25:09,508 for hundreds of years, a staggering 20 million trees 549 00:25:09,551 --> 00:25:12,859 here in the south are under attack from a deadly virus. 550 00:25:12,902 --> 00:25:15,165 - It's called Xylella fastidiosa. 551 00:25:15,209 --> 00:25:18,386 So it arrived with a bacteria on a plant. 552 00:25:18,429 --> 00:25:21,737 And then one of the insects that lives in here 553 00:25:21,781 --> 00:25:23,609 bit this infected plant 554 00:25:23,652 --> 00:25:25,567 and got the bacteria in its saliva. 555 00:25:25,611 --> 00:25:27,177 When an insect goes on an olive tree... 556 00:25:27,221 --> 00:25:28,265 - Yeah. 557 00:25:28,309 --> 00:25:30,006 - And bites the leaf an olive tree, 558 00:25:30,050 --> 00:25:33,227 the tree slowly dies and dries out. 559 00:25:33,270 --> 00:25:35,577 - When the virus was first announced to be the cause 560 00:25:35,621 --> 00:25:37,971 of the trees dying, in 2013, 561 00:25:38,014 --> 00:25:40,800 many Puglians flat-out refused to believe it. 562 00:25:40,843 --> 00:25:43,585 - What really disturbed people is to think 563 00:25:43,629 --> 00:25:45,369 that the trees have been so resilient 564 00:25:45,413 --> 00:25:46,370 for thousands of years... 565 00:25:46,414 --> 00:25:47,589 - Yeah. 566 00:25:47,633 --> 00:25:48,677 - In a couple of years, there was just-- 567 00:25:48,721 --> 00:25:50,026 they just started to die. 568 00:25:50,070 --> 00:25:51,941 People could not believe what was happening. 569 00:25:51,985 --> 00:25:53,769 There was lots of rebellion. 570 00:25:53,813 --> 00:25:56,859 And there were lots of conspiracy theories. 571 00:25:56,903 --> 00:25:59,862 And it was so crazy that the researchers 572 00:25:59,906 --> 00:26:02,561 that were trying to stop the spread of the disease 573 00:26:02,604 --> 00:26:03,692 got investigated. 574 00:26:03,736 --> 00:26:04,867 - Really? - Yeah. 575 00:26:04,911 --> 00:26:06,477 - 'Cause they didn't trust them? 576 00:26:06,521 --> 00:26:09,219 - No, because the idea-- they were basically saying 577 00:26:09,263 --> 00:26:13,484 that it was the scientists' fault that this disease 578 00:26:13,528 --> 00:26:15,399 was basically spreading so much. 579 00:26:15,443 --> 00:26:17,576 - In fact, we have scientists to thank 580 00:26:17,619 --> 00:26:19,882 for the discovery that certain types of olive tree 581 00:26:19,926 --> 00:26:21,797 are resistant to the bacteria. 582 00:26:21,841 --> 00:26:23,712 Caught early enough, they can be used 583 00:26:23,756 --> 00:26:25,627 to improve resistance in ancient trees 584 00:26:25,671 --> 00:26:27,063 through a process of grafting. 585 00:26:27,107 --> 00:26:28,761 Otherwise, it's a question 586 00:26:28,804 --> 00:26:31,111 of ripping out the old trees altogether. 587 00:26:31,154 --> 00:26:34,897 - It's advancing about 20, 30 kilometers every year. 588 00:26:34,941 --> 00:26:36,464 We are facing a situation that we either 589 00:26:36,507 --> 00:26:38,597 plant these varieties that are resistant... 590 00:26:38,640 --> 00:26:39,641 - Yeah. - Or we won't have 591 00:26:39,685 --> 00:26:40,903 any more olives in this area. 592 00:26:40,947 --> 00:26:42,601 - It's that--it's that simple. 593 00:26:42,644 --> 00:26:44,559 - Yeah, it's that simple. 594 00:26:44,603 --> 00:26:49,259 - Their presence is commanding even in this state of decay. 595 00:26:49,303 --> 00:26:51,522 [laughter] 596 00:26:51,566 --> 00:26:53,437 But back at Agostino's farm, 597 00:26:53,481 --> 00:26:55,526 with views across the thriving groves 598 00:26:55,570 --> 00:26:58,399 and a table laden with the fruits of their labor, 599 00:26:58,442 --> 00:27:00,357 it's heartening to hear that his family 600 00:27:00,401 --> 00:27:03,926 has wasted no time in addressing the issue. 601 00:27:03,970 --> 00:27:06,015 How many new trees have you planted, 602 00:27:06,059 --> 00:27:07,930 the variety that's resistant? 603 00:27:07,974 --> 00:27:09,584 - [speaking Italian] - 800 plants. 604 00:27:09,628 --> 00:27:10,672 - 800 plants. 605 00:27:10,716 --> 00:27:12,369 - And 2,000 of Leccino. 606 00:27:12,413 --> 00:27:14,807 But I hope to-- to save the others too. 607 00:27:14,850 --> 00:27:16,460 - So can we taste the olive oil? 608 00:27:16,504 --> 00:27:17,766 - Of course. 609 00:27:17,810 --> 00:27:18,985 - This is--these are the olives 610 00:27:19,028 --> 00:27:20,334 we were looking at before? 611 00:27:20,377 --> 00:27:22,684 - Yeah, this is the best olive oil in the world. 612 00:27:22,728 --> 00:27:24,468 - According to the producer, yes. 613 00:27:24,512 --> 00:27:25,905 - Yeah. 614 00:27:25,948 --> 00:27:26,993 - I show you now how to do it. 615 00:27:27,036 --> 00:27:28,298 - Show me how to do it. 616 00:27:28,342 --> 00:27:30,953 - You have to make it a little warmer. 617 00:27:30,997 --> 00:27:32,868 All the flavor comes up. 618 00:27:32,912 --> 00:27:34,478 - Up. - Then you have to smell it. 619 00:27:34,522 --> 00:27:35,784 - I didn't know it was going to be so complicated. 620 00:27:35,828 --> 00:27:37,307 - We take this very seriously. 621 00:27:37,351 --> 00:27:38,352 - Yeah, this I know. 622 00:27:38,395 --> 00:27:39,440 - Then we have to taste it. 623 00:27:39,483 --> 00:27:40,484 Yes? 624 00:27:40,528 --> 00:27:41,747 - Okay. 625 00:27:41,790 --> 00:27:43,574 - But there is a specific way to do it. 626 00:27:43,618 --> 00:27:44,488 - I won't do it. - [inhaling sharply] 627 00:27:44,532 --> 00:27:45,794 - What are you doing? 628 00:27:45,838 --> 00:27:47,709 - [inhaling sharply] [laughter] 629 00:27:47,753 --> 00:27:49,319 - In this way... 630 00:27:49,363 --> 00:27:50,756 [laughter] 631 00:27:50,799 --> 00:27:51,931 The oil will... - Aerate. 632 00:27:51,974 --> 00:27:52,975 - Yeah, will aerate. Yeah. 633 00:27:53,019 --> 00:27:54,063 - Yes, aerate. - Aerate. 634 00:27:54,107 --> 00:27:55,456 Yeah. - [inhaling sharply] 635 00:27:55,499 --> 00:27:56,979 - Wait, how'd you do it? 636 00:27:57,023 --> 00:28:00,287 - You pull your tongue up and then you... 637 00:28:00,330 --> 00:28:01,810 [inhaling sharply] 638 00:28:01,854 --> 00:28:04,247 - [inhaling sharply] 639 00:28:04,291 --> 00:28:06,249 Yeah, but that's delicious, though. 640 00:28:08,556 --> 00:28:11,167 The reverence for the trees and what they produce here 641 00:28:11,211 --> 00:28:14,475 is akin to that felt towards community elders. 642 00:28:14,518 --> 00:28:17,086 With such mystical qualities, no wonder the oil 643 00:28:17,130 --> 00:28:20,002 is seen as key to unlocking the sublime flavors 644 00:28:20,046 --> 00:28:22,962 of any simple ingredients it happens to touch... 645 00:28:23,005 --> 00:28:26,052 - And then you can put this oil in all this food. 646 00:28:26,095 --> 00:28:29,185 - Friselle being the perfect example. 647 00:28:29,229 --> 00:28:33,537 Take a dry rusk of bread, throw on a few fresh tomatoes, 648 00:28:33,581 --> 00:28:36,889 and a healthy glug of your finest Puglian olive oil... 649 00:28:41,545 --> 00:28:43,417 - And there you have it, dry bread 650 00:28:43,460 --> 00:28:45,811 magically brought back to life. 651 00:28:45,854 --> 00:28:50,293 What could taste out of date tastes out of this world. 652 00:28:50,337 --> 00:28:52,382 That is really good oil. 653 00:28:52,426 --> 00:28:56,082 People can say, "Oh, our oil this," or, "Oh, our oil that," 654 00:28:56,125 --> 00:28:58,388 but actually, this is really good. 655 00:28:58,432 --> 00:29:00,651 Thanks to the efforts of families like Agostino's 656 00:29:00,695 --> 00:29:03,480 to save their beloved trees, Puglians have gone 657 00:29:03,524 --> 00:29:05,744 from refusing to accept there was a problem... 658 00:29:05,787 --> 00:29:06,788 Thank you. 659 00:29:06,832 --> 00:29:08,094 To refusing to accept defeat. 660 00:29:08,137 --> 00:29:09,791 Thank you so much. Thanks. 661 00:29:09,835 --> 00:29:11,575 - Grazie. Grazie. 662 00:29:11,619 --> 00:29:13,273 ♪ 663 00:29:16,667 --> 00:29:19,409 [upbeat jazz music] 664 00:29:19,453 --> 00:29:22,586 - Dominated by its 13th century cathedral, 665 00:29:22,630 --> 00:29:24,327 the Puglian city Altamura 666 00:29:24,371 --> 00:29:26,590 is known across Italy for its bread. 667 00:29:26,634 --> 00:29:28,505 ♪ 668 00:29:28,549 --> 00:29:30,986 And in Italy, wherever you find good bread, 669 00:29:31,030 --> 00:29:34,337 chances are you'll also find good cheese. 670 00:29:34,381 --> 00:29:37,297 ♪ 671 00:29:37,340 --> 00:29:40,735 Caseificio Dicecca is run by a close-knit family 672 00:29:40,779 --> 00:29:43,564 of cheesemakers orcasari. 673 00:29:43,607 --> 00:29:46,045 But young maverick casaro Vito... 674 00:29:46,088 --> 00:29:47,089 Buongiorno. 675 00:29:47,133 --> 00:29:48,569 Has big ideas of his own. 676 00:29:48,612 --> 00:29:49,788 - Nice to meet you. 677 00:29:49,831 --> 00:29:51,877 This is my sister, Victoria. 678 00:29:51,920 --> 00:29:53,095 - Nice to meet you. A pleasure. 679 00:29:53,139 --> 00:29:54,575 And there are more, right? 680 00:29:54,618 --> 00:29:55,968 - Yeah, five of us. 681 00:29:56,011 --> 00:29:57,273 And we work here all together. 682 00:29:57,317 --> 00:29:58,492 - How is that? - Amazing. 683 00:29:58,535 --> 00:29:59,623 - Is it? - Yeah. 684 00:29:59,667 --> 00:30:00,886 - Sometimes it's a little hard? 685 00:30:00,929 --> 00:30:02,801 - Yeah. You know, we fight every day... 686 00:30:02,844 --> 00:30:03,802 - Yeah. 687 00:30:03,845 --> 00:30:04,846 - But at the same time, 688 00:30:04,890 --> 00:30:05,934 we love each other. 689 00:30:05,978 --> 00:30:07,109 - And your grandfather... 690 00:30:07,153 --> 00:30:08,241 - Yeah. - Started this. 691 00:30:08,284 --> 00:30:09,808 - Angel Antonio, my grandfather, 692 00:30:09,851 --> 00:30:11,026 bought this place. 693 00:30:11,070 --> 00:30:13,289 But before him, his father, 694 00:30:13,333 --> 00:30:15,944 he start in a farm in Altamura 695 00:30:15,988 --> 00:30:17,946 with nothing, with two, three cows, 696 00:30:17,990 --> 00:30:20,557 and he start to make mozzarella, 697 00:30:20,601 --> 00:30:22,908 scamorza, caciocavallo. 698 00:30:22,951 --> 00:30:26,999 - Four generations of Diceccas have continued to make 699 00:30:27,042 --> 00:30:29,392 these iconic Southern-Italian cheeses. 700 00:30:29,436 --> 00:30:32,265 - Follow me please, Stanley. - I will. [laughing] I will. 701 00:30:32,308 --> 00:30:34,484 But bucking convention, Vito chose 702 00:30:34,528 --> 00:30:36,312 not to join the family business, 703 00:30:36,356 --> 00:30:40,099 escaping Puglia to travel the world instead. 704 00:30:40,142 --> 00:30:42,057 When he told people he was a cheesemaker, 705 00:30:42,101 --> 00:30:46,322 he was surprised how enthusiastic they were. 706 00:30:46,366 --> 00:30:48,324 He returned to his family's caseificio 707 00:30:48,368 --> 00:30:51,458 eager not just to continue the family tradition 708 00:30:51,501 --> 00:30:53,199 but to do something no one in this region 709 00:30:53,242 --> 00:30:57,594 had ever done before: create a Puglian blue cheese. 710 00:30:57,638 --> 00:31:00,293 - As you know, Puglia is most famous for burrata. 711 00:31:00,336 --> 00:31:01,772 - Yeah. 712 00:31:01,816 --> 00:31:05,385 - So today, I want to show you what I did 15 years ago. 713 00:31:05,428 --> 00:31:08,736 This was my first blue cheese I did in Puglia. 714 00:31:08,779 --> 00:31:12,740 - Vito has created 66 different types of blue. 715 00:31:12,783 --> 00:31:14,350 Pretty impressive when you consider 716 00:31:14,394 --> 00:31:16,178 how hard they are to make. 717 00:31:16,222 --> 00:31:20,095 Typically, mold is injected into a cow's milk base, 718 00:31:20,139 --> 00:31:22,184 which is left to age in mountain caves 719 00:31:22,228 --> 00:31:24,230 for up to six months. 720 00:31:24,273 --> 00:31:26,710 - Right now, wherever you go, you find Gorgonzola. 721 00:31:26,754 --> 00:31:28,234 It's an amazing cheese. 722 00:31:28,277 --> 00:31:30,062 But I want to do my own cheese. 723 00:31:30,105 --> 00:31:32,586 ♪ 724 00:31:32,629 --> 00:31:33,674 So we break it. 725 00:31:33,717 --> 00:31:35,241 This one is a goat blue cheese, 726 00:31:35,284 --> 00:31:38,200 one of the stronger taste cheese that we have. 727 00:31:38,244 --> 00:31:40,202 And this is the heart of the burrata. 728 00:31:40,246 --> 00:31:41,595 It's a burrata cream. 729 00:31:41,638 --> 00:31:44,467 - Oh. So then this is a cow's milk? 730 00:31:44,511 --> 00:31:45,947 - This is cow's milk. - Cow's milk. 731 00:31:45,991 --> 00:31:47,296 - But the base, it's... 732 00:31:47,340 --> 00:31:49,559 - Is goat milk? - Goat. Yeah. 733 00:31:49,603 --> 00:31:50,909 So we break like this. 734 00:31:50,952 --> 00:31:52,475 - What made you think to do this? 735 00:31:52,519 --> 00:31:53,999 - I live in California for a while. 736 00:31:54,042 --> 00:31:55,739 - Oh, you did? - Yeah, in Pasadena. 737 00:31:55,783 --> 00:31:57,350 - Oh, in Pasadena. 738 00:31:57,393 --> 00:31:59,047 - And I love surfing, so, you know, 739 00:31:59,091 --> 00:32:00,831 the blue of the ocean. 740 00:32:00,875 --> 00:32:02,529 So I want to do blue cheese. 741 00:32:02,572 --> 00:32:04,270 - [laughing] 742 00:32:04,313 --> 00:32:06,837 While Vito's brothers were open-minded 743 00:32:06,881 --> 00:32:08,752 about creating new cheeses, 744 00:32:08,796 --> 00:32:12,931 a Puglian blue was a step too far for the family. 745 00:32:12,974 --> 00:32:16,021 [all speaking Italian] 746 00:32:25,813 --> 00:32:27,249 - Si. Si, si. 747 00:32:27,293 --> 00:32:29,338 Eventually, with the help of his family's 748 00:32:29,382 --> 00:32:33,299 constructive criticism, Vito perfected the recipe, 749 00:32:33,342 --> 00:32:35,823 and a spoonful of blue was born. 750 00:32:35,866 --> 00:32:37,564 - So... - Yes. 751 00:32:37,607 --> 00:32:38,869 - These are taralli... - Yes. 752 00:32:38,913 --> 00:32:40,262 - Made by my mom. - Yes. 753 00:32:40,306 --> 00:32:43,265 - So we dip the tarallo inside the blue cheese. 754 00:32:44,745 --> 00:32:46,399 - [chuckling] 755 00:32:49,663 --> 00:32:52,666 [both speaking Italian] 756 00:32:52,709 --> 00:32:54,581 - That's really incredible. 757 00:32:54,624 --> 00:32:57,279 - Yeah. - The mixture of the two-- 758 00:32:57,323 --> 00:32:59,673 you have the sharpness of the blue, 759 00:32:59,716 --> 00:33:02,458 but then it's--it's softened by the--by the burrata. 760 00:33:02,502 --> 00:33:04,330 - Yes. - That's incredible. 761 00:33:04,373 --> 00:33:06,462 You're very smart, aren't you? 762 00:33:06,506 --> 00:33:08,464 Others might be content to stop there, 763 00:33:08,508 --> 00:33:11,467 but Vito's continually improving on his creations 764 00:33:11,511 --> 00:33:14,775 and experimenting with new ideas. 765 00:33:14,818 --> 00:33:16,081 And where better to put his theories 766 00:33:16,124 --> 00:33:17,734 to the ultimate taste test 767 00:33:17,778 --> 00:33:19,214 than a cheese bar, 768 00:33:19,258 --> 00:33:21,477 which he opened with his fiancée, Roberta, 769 00:33:21,521 --> 00:33:24,002 in the middle of the Mercadante Forest 770 00:33:24,045 --> 00:33:25,873 just outside Altamura. 771 00:33:25,916 --> 00:33:27,657 [laughs] - So here-- 772 00:33:27,701 --> 00:33:29,137 - I've never heard of a cheese bar before. 773 00:33:29,181 --> 00:33:30,573 - Yeah. - I like this. 774 00:33:30,617 --> 00:33:32,314 - This is the only one in the world. 775 00:33:32,358 --> 00:33:34,490 - Here, customers enjoy the full selection 776 00:33:34,534 --> 00:33:36,492 of Vito's invented cheeses. 777 00:33:36,536 --> 00:33:38,929 But he's never forgotten how he started out 778 00:33:38,973 --> 00:33:40,888 on this unconventional journey. 779 00:33:40,931 --> 00:33:42,368 - Cheeses. - Cheeses. 780 00:33:42,411 --> 00:33:45,153 One item on the menu is focaccia barese, 781 00:33:45,197 --> 00:33:46,720 which Vito's mother used to make 782 00:33:46,763 --> 00:33:48,461 for his school lunches. 783 00:33:48,504 --> 00:33:51,290 - So when I used to get in a class, 784 00:33:51,333 --> 00:33:56,208 I was bullied with the sounds of a cow, like, "Moo." 785 00:33:56,251 --> 00:33:57,383 - They--they bullied you? 786 00:33:57,426 --> 00:33:58,427 - Yes. - Yeah. 787 00:33:58,471 --> 00:34:00,038 - So has that changed now, 788 00:34:00,081 --> 00:34:02,257 the way people view cheesemakers? 789 00:34:02,997 --> 00:34:04,042 - You're like a hero now. 790 00:34:04,085 --> 00:34:05,260 - [laughs] 791 00:34:05,304 --> 00:34:06,740 - Yeah, yeah, yeah. 792 00:34:06,783 --> 00:34:09,090 - So we put the burrata 793 00:34:09,134 --> 00:34:11,571 on top of the focaccia, like this. 794 00:34:11,614 --> 00:34:12,659 - Grazie. 795 00:34:12,702 --> 00:34:13,660 - Stanley. 796 00:34:13,703 --> 00:34:14,835 - Thank you. 797 00:34:14,878 --> 00:34:17,794 [upbeat jazz music] 798 00:34:17,838 --> 00:34:19,231 ♪ 799 00:34:19,274 --> 00:34:21,407 Mmm. That's delicious. 800 00:34:23,104 --> 00:34:24,888 That's so good. 801 00:34:24,932 --> 00:34:26,499 Listening to Vito's stories, 802 00:34:26,542 --> 00:34:28,414 it makes perfect sense that for him, 803 00:34:28,457 --> 00:34:31,982 both profession and family are inextricably linked. 804 00:34:32,026 --> 00:34:33,549 - [speaking Italian] 805 00:34:33,593 --> 00:34:36,074 We call her "Baby Burrata" when she born. 806 00:34:36,117 --> 00:34:37,249 - [laughs] 807 00:34:37,292 --> 00:34:38,815 And who knows? 808 00:34:38,859 --> 00:34:40,121 Thanks to Vito's drive 809 00:34:40,165 --> 00:34:42,297 to revitalize the family business, 810 00:34:42,341 --> 00:34:44,647 their daughter, Chiara, might just represent 811 00:34:44,691 --> 00:34:47,694 the fifth generation of casari. 812 00:34:47,737 --> 00:34:48,912 [laughter] 813 00:34:48,956 --> 00:34:51,393 ♪ 814 00:34:54,004 --> 00:34:56,746 [upbeat jazz music] 815 00:34:56,790 --> 00:34:58,139 - Straying just a little 816 00:34:58,183 --> 00:34:59,662 from the flat terrain of Puglia, 817 00:34:59,706 --> 00:35:01,838 I'm making my way to one of Italy's 818 00:35:01,882 --> 00:35:06,365 most ancient and perhaps most unique cities. 819 00:35:06,408 --> 00:35:09,194 In the neighboring region of Basilicata 820 00:35:09,237 --> 00:35:12,197 lies the city of Matera. 821 00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:14,329 Until the 17th century, 822 00:35:14,373 --> 00:35:16,462 this was actually part of Puglia, 823 00:35:16,505 --> 00:35:18,638 and the two regions have been long tied 824 00:35:18,681 --> 00:35:22,946 through a shared history and culinary heritage. 825 00:35:22,990 --> 00:35:24,948 ♪ 826 00:35:24,992 --> 00:35:27,734 Take a stroll, and you'll see the usual stuff-- 827 00:35:27,777 --> 00:35:29,518 people going about their business, 828 00:35:29,562 --> 00:35:32,260 maybe even treating themselves to a pastry. 829 00:35:32,304 --> 00:35:35,220 May I recommend thetette delle monache, 830 00:35:35,263 --> 00:35:37,135 or nuns' breasts? 831 00:35:37,178 --> 00:35:39,049 They're a local specialty. 832 00:35:39,093 --> 00:35:40,138 It's a long story. 833 00:35:40,181 --> 00:35:41,574 - Hi, Stan. - Francesco. 834 00:35:41,617 --> 00:35:43,184 - Nice to meet you. - Nice to meet you too. 835 00:35:43,228 --> 00:35:45,186 None of this seems remarkable, perhaps, 836 00:35:45,230 --> 00:35:46,927 but it wasn't always like this, 837 00:35:46,970 --> 00:35:50,148 as local historian Francesco Foschino well knows. 838 00:35:50,191 --> 00:35:51,497 And this is your city? 839 00:35:51,540 --> 00:35:53,107 - Yes, this is my city. 840 00:35:53,151 --> 00:35:55,283 I was born here, my grandparents, 841 00:35:55,327 --> 00:35:56,328 my great grandparents, and so on. 842 00:35:56,371 --> 00:35:57,459 - Really? - Yes. 843 00:35:57,503 --> 00:35:58,591 I have a surprise for you. - Really? 844 00:35:58,634 --> 00:35:59,722 - Yes. - All right. 845 00:35:59,766 --> 00:36:01,202 - Just around the corner. - All right. 846 00:36:01,246 --> 00:36:03,378 A few steps from the relative modernity 847 00:36:03,422 --> 00:36:04,684 of the town square, 848 00:36:04,727 --> 00:36:06,990 we are transported back in time. 849 00:36:07,034 --> 00:36:11,299 - That's Matera old city. 850 00:36:11,343 --> 00:36:12,779 - That's incredible. 851 00:36:12,822 --> 00:36:14,650 [dramatic music] 852 00:36:14,694 --> 00:36:17,218 I've never seen an Italian city like this before. 853 00:36:17,262 --> 00:36:19,177 - No, it's quite unique. - Yeah, yeah. 854 00:36:19,220 --> 00:36:23,137 This ancient town grew across one slope of the rocky ravine 855 00:36:23,181 --> 00:36:25,226 known locally as "La Gravina," 856 00:36:25,270 --> 00:36:28,490 and although it dates back to the 10th century BC, 857 00:36:28,534 --> 00:36:31,232 for many, it will trigger more recent memories. 858 00:36:31,276 --> 00:36:33,191 From the last James Bond movie, right? 859 00:36:33,234 --> 00:36:34,235 - Oh, yeah. 860 00:36:34,279 --> 00:36:35,845 That has been the first movie 861 00:36:35,889 --> 00:36:37,195 when Matera in the cinema 862 00:36:37,238 --> 00:36:40,241 was actually Matera and not some other places. 863 00:36:40,285 --> 00:36:42,243 Because during the '50s and the '90s, 864 00:36:42,287 --> 00:36:44,245 when most of the movies were shot, 865 00:36:44,289 --> 00:36:46,116 the old city was completely abandoned 866 00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:47,422 and deserted. - Really? 867 00:36:47,466 --> 00:36:49,816 - And when we, from Matera, wanted to see 868 00:36:49,859 --> 00:36:51,296 our old city alive, 869 00:36:51,339 --> 00:36:52,688 we had to go to the movie theater. 870 00:36:52,732 --> 00:36:54,647 - So a lot of this was just abandoned? 871 00:36:54,690 --> 00:36:56,431 - All of this. - Abandoned? 872 00:36:56,475 --> 00:36:57,650 - Abandoned. - And then people lived 873 00:36:57,693 --> 00:36:59,826 sort of around it. - Exactly. 874 00:36:59,869 --> 00:37:02,437 - The Sassi's labyrinth of underground caves 875 00:37:02,481 --> 00:37:05,788 were occupied since the Paleolithic Age. 876 00:37:05,832 --> 00:37:06,876 Look at that. What is that? 877 00:37:06,920 --> 00:37:09,009 Is that a church in there? - Yes. 878 00:37:09,052 --> 00:37:11,577 In that little mountain, there are two churches that are dug. 879 00:37:11,620 --> 00:37:13,579 - They dug into the mountain... - Exactly. 880 00:37:13,622 --> 00:37:16,277 - To build the church. Amazing. 881 00:37:16,321 --> 00:37:19,889 Poor sanitation and poverty meant disease was rampant. 882 00:37:19,933 --> 00:37:23,545 But little was done about it until the 1950s when Matera 883 00:37:23,589 --> 00:37:25,547 became a valuable tool in securing 884 00:37:25,591 --> 00:37:27,462 post-war funding for Southern Italy 885 00:37:27,506 --> 00:37:30,160 through America's Marshall Plan. 886 00:37:30,204 --> 00:37:32,902 All of a sudden, it was in Italy's interests 887 00:37:32,946 --> 00:37:35,253 not just to pay attention, but to play up 888 00:37:35,296 --> 00:37:37,907 Matera's desperate conditions. 889 00:37:37,951 --> 00:37:39,518 - It became so infamous 890 00:37:39,561 --> 00:37:41,433 that it was nicknamed the shame of Italy. 891 00:37:41,476 --> 00:37:43,086 Can you believe that? Such a beauty? 892 00:37:43,130 --> 00:37:45,132 - No, it's incredible. 893 00:37:45,175 --> 00:37:47,003 The label served its purpose. 894 00:37:47,047 --> 00:37:49,658 Money was secured, modern homes built, 895 00:37:49,702 --> 00:37:51,704 and the caves abandoned. 896 00:37:54,446 --> 00:37:56,535 But now a new generation has emerged-- 897 00:37:56,578 --> 00:37:58,580 people like Francesco and, more recently, 898 00:37:58,624 --> 00:38:00,887 Chef Vitantonio Lombardo, 899 00:38:00,930 --> 00:38:02,845 who has turned an abandoned cave 900 00:38:02,889 --> 00:38:04,282 into a restaurant that celebrates 901 00:38:04,325 --> 00:38:06,980 Matera's complicated history. 902 00:38:07,023 --> 00:38:10,375 [both speaking Italian] 903 00:38:10,418 --> 00:38:13,595 - Customers here enjoy dishes with inventive names 904 00:38:13,639 --> 00:38:15,597 like "I dropped an egg in the garden" 905 00:38:15,641 --> 00:38:19,122 and "Drone view of La Murgia." 906 00:38:19,166 --> 00:38:21,081 Not just full of flavor, 907 00:38:21,124 --> 00:38:23,257 his recipes are loaded with symbolism, 908 00:38:23,301 --> 00:38:24,824 with one dish in particular 909 00:38:24,867 --> 00:38:27,522 capturing Matera's incredible transformation. 910 00:38:55,420 --> 00:38:58,640 - These glands, essentially offal or sweetbread, 911 00:38:58,684 --> 00:39:00,903 are something the Materani would have eaten 912 00:39:00,947 --> 00:39:02,818 100 years ago. 913 00:39:02,862 --> 00:39:05,168 But the twist is it's then shaped and covered 914 00:39:05,212 --> 00:39:08,781 in dark breadcrumbs to make it look like a black truffle, 915 00:39:08,824 --> 00:39:11,436 the very symbol of decadence. 916 00:39:37,549 --> 00:39:39,377 - While the sweetbread and the filet 917 00:39:39,420 --> 00:39:40,943 are cooked in the oven, 918 00:39:40,987 --> 00:39:42,945 the plate is prepared with a unique dusting. 919 00:39:53,347 --> 00:39:56,742 - The last elements are a rich red wine reduction 920 00:39:56,785 --> 00:40:00,093 contrasted with a simple potato puree. 921 00:40:28,469 --> 00:40:29,557 - Oh, yeah. 922 00:40:38,610 --> 00:40:39,567 - Si. 923 00:40:39,611 --> 00:40:40,829 - Okay? - Yeah. 924 00:40:45,486 --> 00:40:47,096 - [laughs] 925 00:40:47,140 --> 00:40:48,576 That's fantastic. 926 00:40:48,620 --> 00:40:50,448 I love that you made this look... 927 00:40:50,491 --> 00:40:51,797 [speaking Italian] 928 00:40:53,538 --> 00:40:54,887 - Yeah, that's amazing. 929 00:41:06,942 --> 00:41:08,640 Okay? - Beautiful. 930 00:41:09,249 --> 00:41:10,598 - Thank you. 931 00:41:10,642 --> 00:41:13,601 [light jazz music] 932 00:41:13,645 --> 00:41:17,039 ♪ 933 00:41:17,083 --> 00:41:18,127 Wow. 934 00:41:18,171 --> 00:41:19,128 - Okay? - No-- 935 00:41:22,175 --> 00:41:23,481 - Si, si, si, si. 936 00:41:23,524 --> 00:41:26,701 - That is amazing. 937 00:41:26,745 --> 00:41:29,487 I gotta say...wow. 938 00:41:37,190 --> 00:41:39,932 - Vitantonio's strength lies in paying tribute 939 00:41:39,975 --> 00:41:42,848 to the very things he was supposed to be ashamed of. 940 00:41:42,891 --> 00:41:45,024 As with everyone I've met in Puglia, 941 00:41:45,067 --> 00:41:50,029 this spirit of innovation was forged out of hard times. 942 00:41:50,072 --> 00:41:52,422 But by reclaiming their past, 943 00:41:52,466 --> 00:41:55,991 the Puglisi are going beyond setting the record straight. 944 00:41:56,035 --> 00:41:58,298 They're writing their own script, 945 00:41:58,341 --> 00:42:02,345 and for once, it's on their terms. 946 00:42:02,389 --> 00:42:07,263 ♪