1 00:00:06,223 --> 00:00:09,922 [seagulls cawing] 2 00:00:09,966 --> 00:00:12,316 [soft music] 3 00:00:12,360 --> 00:00:16,668 - There's a story that goes, when God created the world, 4 00:00:16,712 --> 00:00:18,931 he took all the leftover bits 5 00:00:18,975 --> 00:00:21,891 and wanted to make something beautiful with them, 6 00:00:21,934 --> 00:00:25,808 so he made Sardinia. 7 00:00:25,851 --> 00:00:27,984 And there's something to that. 8 00:00:28,028 --> 00:00:31,814 Sardinia is really an island of bits and pieces, 9 00:00:31,857 --> 00:00:34,773 in the best possible way. 10 00:00:34,817 --> 00:00:38,473 Each local community is like an island of its own, 11 00:00:38,516 --> 00:00:41,998 with wildly varying geography, languages... 12 00:00:42,042 --> 00:00:44,218 [both speaking Catalan] 13 00:00:44,261 --> 00:00:46,089 - And food. 14 00:00:46,133 --> 00:00:47,830 - Bello. - Wow. 15 00:00:47,873 --> 00:00:49,701 Put together, you get a region 16 00:00:49,745 --> 00:00:52,095 with a ferocious independent streak. 17 00:00:52,139 --> 00:00:54,402 - [speaking Italian] 18 00:00:54,445 --> 00:00:55,490 both: Cheers. 19 00:00:55,533 --> 00:00:57,187 - A little bit Italian 20 00:00:57,231 --> 00:00:59,624 and a little bit something else entirely. 21 00:00:59,668 --> 00:01:01,235 Man. 22 00:01:01,278 --> 00:01:02,932 Incredible. 23 00:01:02,975 --> 00:01:04,890 I'm Stanley Tucci. 24 00:01:04,934 --> 00:01:07,284 I'm fascinated by my Italian heritage, 25 00:01:07,328 --> 00:01:10,331 so I'm travelling across Italy to discover how the food 26 00:01:10,374 --> 00:01:13,595 in each of this country's 20 regions is as unique 27 00:01:13,638 --> 00:01:15,510 as the people and their past. 28 00:01:15,553 --> 00:01:17,773 Oh, in between my legs? 29 00:01:17,816 --> 00:01:20,123 Sardinia is Italy's Wild West. 30 00:01:20,167 --> 00:01:22,256 God damn it. 31 00:01:22,299 --> 00:01:24,519 And although they respect tradition, 32 00:01:24,562 --> 00:01:26,651 things here are never dull. 33 00:01:26,695 --> 00:01:29,306 Ah! Ah! - Ah! 34 00:01:29,350 --> 00:01:32,092 - Out here, nothing stands in the way of freedom... 35 00:01:32,135 --> 00:01:34,006 - It's different. - Okay. 36 00:01:34,050 --> 00:01:38,141 Because this is a place at the edge of reason. 37 00:01:38,185 --> 00:01:42,145 I am very adventurous, but sometimes I have real fear. 38 00:01:42,189 --> 00:01:44,887 I think this is one of those times. 39 00:01:44,930 --> 00:01:47,890 [light music] 40 00:01:47,933 --> 00:01:54,636 ♪ 41 00:01:55,202 --> 00:01:57,987 [jazzy piano music] 42 00:01:58,030 --> 00:02:00,163 Due West of Rome and right in the middle 43 00:02:00,207 --> 00:02:01,686 of the Mediterranean Sea, 44 00:02:01,730 --> 00:02:03,601 Sardinia is so cut off 45 00:02:03,645 --> 00:02:05,560 from the rest of the Italian peninsula 46 00:02:05,603 --> 00:02:07,344 that fellow compatriots joke about it 47 00:02:07,388 --> 00:02:10,260 being a mini continent, 48 00:02:10,304 --> 00:02:13,089 with customs and ideas all of its own. 49 00:02:15,265 --> 00:02:20,488 Its capital, Cagliari, sits on the south coast. 50 00:02:20,531 --> 00:02:23,186 For over five millennia, its vast harbor 51 00:02:23,230 --> 00:02:25,362 has attracted visitors from far and wide 52 00:02:25,406 --> 00:02:27,059 who, once here, 53 00:02:27,103 --> 00:02:30,193 often find it very hard to leave. 54 00:02:30,237 --> 00:02:32,500 Many have stayed to trade here, 55 00:02:32,543 --> 00:02:34,502 others to conquer, 56 00:02:34,545 --> 00:02:37,069 and a few, like food writer Letitia Clark, 57 00:02:37,113 --> 00:02:39,463 have simply followed their hearts. 58 00:02:39,507 --> 00:02:42,510 Ciao. - Ciao. 59 00:02:42,553 --> 00:02:43,946 [speaking Italian] 60 00:02:43,989 --> 00:02:45,426 Lovely to meet you. - How are you? 61 00:02:45,469 --> 00:02:47,167 It's so nice to meet you too. - Welcome to Cagliari. 62 00:02:47,210 --> 00:02:48,733 - But you came from London... 63 00:02:48,777 --> 00:02:50,387 - Because I fell in love. - 'Cause you fell in love. 64 00:02:50,431 --> 00:02:51,823 - With a Sardinian. Yeah, exactly. 65 00:02:51,867 --> 00:02:53,042 - And then you fell in love with Sardinia. 66 00:02:53,085 --> 00:02:54,609 - Yeah. It's an incredible place 67 00:02:54,652 --> 00:02:56,654 and it's very under-explored. 68 00:02:56,698 --> 00:02:58,352 It has an amazingly rich culture. 69 00:02:58,395 --> 00:03:01,137 And because it's an island, historical methods 70 00:03:01,181 --> 00:03:03,705 have been preserved with such kind of tenacity, 71 00:03:03,748 --> 00:03:04,706 it's amazing. 72 00:03:04,749 --> 00:03:10,929 ♪ 73 00:03:10,973 --> 00:03:13,584 - Each wave of settlers has left its own mark 74 00:03:13,628 --> 00:03:17,371 on the island's capital, so much so that eating here 75 00:03:17,414 --> 00:03:19,416 is like going on the culinary equivalent 76 00:03:19,460 --> 00:03:21,113 of an archaeological dig. 77 00:03:22,419 --> 00:03:23,638 This is gorgeous. 78 00:03:23,681 --> 00:03:25,988 - And there's some beautiful fish. 79 00:03:26,031 --> 00:03:28,643 - Letitia has taken me to San Benedetto Market 80 00:03:28,686 --> 00:03:30,906 to do some excavating. 81 00:03:30,949 --> 00:03:33,430 [all speaking Italian] 82 00:03:33,474 --> 00:03:34,779 - Parago, parago. - Is it like an orata? 83 00:03:36,955 --> 00:03:38,261 - Si. 84 00:03:38,305 --> 00:03:39,784 The fruits of the Mediterranean Sea 85 00:03:39,828 --> 00:03:41,612 are everywhere you look. 86 00:03:41,656 --> 00:03:45,181 But for Letitia, there's one delicacy from far-off shores 87 00:03:45,225 --> 00:03:47,052 that trumps all the others. 88 00:03:50,099 --> 00:03:52,667 - Okay, so this is bottarga, which is one of Sardinia's 89 00:03:52,710 --> 00:03:58,194 most prized, most celebrated, most delicious products. 90 00:03:58,238 --> 00:04:00,631 - Put simply, bottarga is fish roe 91 00:04:00,675 --> 00:04:02,764 that's first salted, then cured. 92 00:04:02,807 --> 00:04:04,505 [light music] 93 00:04:04,548 --> 00:04:06,637 This method of preservation was invented 94 00:04:06,681 --> 00:04:09,640 over 3,000 years ago by the Phoenicians. 95 00:04:09,684 --> 00:04:11,990 These renowned seafarers brought bottarga here 96 00:04:12,034 --> 00:04:14,558 from modern-day Lebanon. 97 00:04:14,602 --> 00:04:16,734 But it's only when made with the eggs 98 00:04:16,778 --> 00:04:21,086 of Sardinia's gray mullet that something magical happens. 99 00:04:21,130 --> 00:04:22,305 - So bottarga. - Shall we try it? 100 00:04:22,349 --> 00:04:23,654 - Try. 101 00:04:23,698 --> 00:04:25,439 Caviar of Sardinia. 102 00:04:25,482 --> 00:04:30,008 ♪ 103 00:04:30,052 --> 00:04:33,316 - I could eat that all day. 104 00:04:33,360 --> 00:04:34,448 - Buttery. - It is very buttery. 105 00:04:34,491 --> 00:04:36,363 - Yeah. - And super salty. 106 00:04:36,406 --> 00:04:39,453 - Have you tried the Sicilian one which is made from tuna? 107 00:04:39,496 --> 00:04:41,324 - I have. I prefer this. - Prefer this one. 108 00:04:41,368 --> 00:04:43,152 You're a fully-fledged Sardinian now. 109 00:04:43,195 --> 00:04:45,110 If you say that the bottarga of Sardinia 110 00:04:45,154 --> 00:04:47,504 is the best in Italy, they'll give you citizenship. 111 00:04:47,548 --> 00:04:49,158 - Yeah, it's true. I know. 112 00:04:49,201 --> 00:04:50,725 I need it. 113 00:04:54,685 --> 00:04:58,733 ♪ 114 00:04:58,776 --> 00:05:03,215 After 3,000 years of trade, invasions, and conquests, 115 00:05:03,259 --> 00:05:05,696 it seems the people of Cagliari have a knack 116 00:05:05,740 --> 00:05:08,438 for taking the best of what's been brought here 117 00:05:08,482 --> 00:05:11,615 and making it their own. 118 00:05:11,659 --> 00:05:13,269 To further prove that point, 119 00:05:13,313 --> 00:05:16,011 Letitia's taking me just south of Cagliari 120 00:05:16,054 --> 00:05:18,883 to the Lagoon of Nora, to sample 121 00:05:18,927 --> 00:05:21,146 yet another treat that washed up on these shores 122 00:05:21,190 --> 00:05:24,367 a millennium or two ago. 123 00:05:24,411 --> 00:05:26,761 And no, it's not a fish. 124 00:05:26,804 --> 00:05:28,980 Hey, leave that fish alone. 125 00:05:29,024 --> 00:05:30,373 Hi. 126 00:05:30,417 --> 00:05:31,983 - Beautiful place for scaling a fish, right? 127 00:05:32,027 --> 00:05:33,550 - Yeah. [laughter] 128 00:05:33,594 --> 00:05:35,726 Oh, this is scorpionfish. - Scorpionfish. 129 00:05:35,770 --> 00:05:38,294 And it's beautiful. It's super fresh. 130 00:05:38,338 --> 00:05:41,079 Catch this morning. 131 00:05:41,123 --> 00:05:43,865 - Head Chef Francesco Stara might be known 132 00:05:43,908 --> 00:05:46,737 for his sparkling fresh seafood, 133 00:05:46,781 --> 00:05:49,087 but at Fradis Minoris restaurant, 134 00:05:49,131 --> 00:05:53,004 there's one local specialty he can't take off the menu, 135 00:05:53,048 --> 00:05:56,181 fregola ai frutti di mare. 136 00:05:57,226 --> 00:06:01,230 - So we start from the semola from the Urzulei area. 137 00:06:01,273 --> 00:06:03,101 - It all starts with a pasta 138 00:06:03,145 --> 00:06:05,756 that looks curiously like couscous. 139 00:06:05,800 --> 00:06:08,716 - You're just gonna put a few drops of warm water 140 00:06:08,759 --> 00:06:10,761 and start to create the lumps. 141 00:06:10,805 --> 00:06:12,284 It is relaxing. 142 00:06:12,328 --> 00:06:14,199 - It is relaxing. Yeah. 143 00:06:14,243 --> 00:06:16,419 Fregola's origins are difficult to unearth. 144 00:06:16,463 --> 00:06:18,116 Wow. 145 00:06:18,160 --> 00:06:20,336 Some say it was brought here by the Phoenicians. 146 00:06:20,380 --> 00:06:22,730 Others that it came from North Africa. 147 00:06:22,773 --> 00:06:25,950 - Supposedly a woman who could make fregola 148 00:06:25,994 --> 00:06:27,952 was deemed to be kind of good marriage material. 149 00:06:27,996 --> 00:06:29,693 - Really? 150 00:06:29,737 --> 00:06:31,303 - And that was her kind of proposition 151 00:06:31,347 --> 00:06:32,957 to her potential husband. 152 00:06:33,001 --> 00:06:34,959 I can make fregola, so I'm gonna make you a good wife. 153 00:06:35,003 --> 00:06:36,570 - Really? 154 00:06:36,613 --> 00:06:37,788 Well, I'm gonna have to talk to my wife about that. 155 00:06:37,832 --> 00:06:39,137 [laughter] 156 00:06:41,139 --> 00:06:42,184 - There we go. 157 00:06:42,227 --> 00:06:43,446 - Cheers. - Salute. 158 00:06:43,490 --> 00:06:45,143 - Salute. - Salute. 159 00:06:45,187 --> 00:06:49,191 Luckily for us, this island has fantastic beer. 160 00:06:49,234 --> 00:06:52,716 It's like 90-something degrees in Sardinia now. 161 00:06:52,760 --> 00:06:53,891 And we've just made this-- 162 00:06:53,935 --> 00:06:55,110 you've just made this beautiful thing. 163 00:06:55,153 --> 00:06:56,198 - We've done nothing. We were just-- 164 00:06:56,241 --> 00:06:57,634 - Yeah. We've done nothing. 165 00:06:57,678 --> 00:06:59,331 We had to have a beer. 166 00:06:59,375 --> 00:07:00,985 - There we go. 167 00:07:01,029 --> 00:07:03,031 - It's not just fregola's larger grains 168 00:07:03,074 --> 00:07:07,122 that distinguish this dish from its North African cousin. 169 00:07:07,165 --> 00:07:10,473 It's also the tradition of serving it with fish. 170 00:07:10,517 --> 00:07:12,693 - The scorpionfish that we got this morning, 171 00:07:12,736 --> 00:07:16,261 what we're gonna do is just, we're gonna fillet it. 172 00:07:16,305 --> 00:07:17,393 - It's a beautiful flesh, isn't it? 173 00:07:17,437 --> 00:07:18,525 both: Yeah. 174 00:07:18,568 --> 00:07:20,048 - This is it. - So there's that. 175 00:07:20,091 --> 00:07:24,095 - Then we will blanch our octopus. 176 00:07:24,139 --> 00:07:25,227 There we go. 177 00:07:25,270 --> 00:07:26,794 - Gorgeous. 178 00:07:26,837 --> 00:07:30,754 After being toasted to enhance the flavor, 179 00:07:30,798 --> 00:07:33,975 the fregola are quickly blanched. 180 00:07:34,018 --> 00:07:35,759 - So you're cooking it like pasta. 181 00:07:35,803 --> 00:07:37,544 - Yeah. - Yeah. 182 00:07:37,587 --> 00:07:40,372 - Just season with a bit of olive oil. 183 00:07:40,416 --> 00:07:42,592 - Often this dish can be hearty fare, 184 00:07:42,636 --> 00:07:46,117 but at Fradis Minoris, it becomes something refined. 185 00:07:46,161 --> 00:07:47,945 - Is this the... [speaking Italian] 186 00:07:47,989 --> 00:07:50,078 The scorpionfish, raw? 187 00:07:50,121 --> 00:07:52,123 - Yes, it's the raw scorpionfish. 188 00:07:52,167 --> 00:07:55,387 We're gonna finish it up with some bottarga. 189 00:07:57,259 --> 00:07:59,522 - And finally, a rich tomato broth 190 00:07:59,566 --> 00:08:01,437 flavored with fragrant local herbs 191 00:08:01,481 --> 00:08:04,179 and the shells of the day's catch. 192 00:08:04,222 --> 00:08:08,139 ♪ 193 00:08:09,619 --> 00:08:10,707 - Andiamo. 194 00:08:10,751 --> 00:08:12,579 [light music] 195 00:08:12,622 --> 00:08:15,886 In honor of all the gifts from visitors past and present, 196 00:08:15,930 --> 00:08:18,585 it's only right and proper to celebrate Cagliari 197 00:08:18,628 --> 00:08:22,023 within site of the old Phoenician ruins of Nora. 198 00:08:22,066 --> 00:08:23,764 - Wow. Thank you. 199 00:08:23,807 --> 00:08:25,200 - One fregola, with mixed seafood. 200 00:08:25,243 --> 00:08:26,984 - How beautiful. 201 00:08:28,290 --> 00:08:29,160 - Oh, you're going to eat with us. 202 00:08:29,204 --> 00:08:30,510 - Yeah, please. - Perfect. 203 00:08:30,553 --> 00:08:31,815 - Okay. 204 00:08:31,859 --> 00:08:33,817 - Buon appetito. - I'm very excited. 205 00:08:36,951 --> 00:08:38,474 Oh, yum. 206 00:08:38,518 --> 00:08:40,215 That's great. 207 00:08:40,258 --> 00:08:42,391 It's so delicate. 208 00:08:44,349 --> 00:08:46,482 - Yes. - Fantastico. 209 00:08:46,526 --> 00:08:48,615 - And I like the fact that every little piece 210 00:08:48,658 --> 00:08:50,268 is slightly different. - Yeah. 211 00:08:50,312 --> 00:08:51,661 They are like little pearls, aren't they? 212 00:08:51,705 --> 00:08:53,489 - Yeah, they are. It's, like, nubbly. 213 00:08:53,533 --> 00:08:55,970 - It is nubbly. 214 00:08:56,013 --> 00:08:58,059 Francesco has taken an ingredient 215 00:08:58,102 --> 00:09:01,497 once foreign to these shores and transformed it 216 00:09:01,541 --> 00:09:04,065 into something uniquely Sardinian. 217 00:09:16,686 --> 00:09:18,688 [jazzy music] 218 00:09:18,732 --> 00:09:20,734 - Those who know the island well 219 00:09:20,777 --> 00:09:23,824 say there are really two Sardinias. 220 00:09:23,867 --> 00:09:26,130 The coast with its many foreign occupations 221 00:09:26,174 --> 00:09:28,611 and multicultural mixings, 222 00:09:28,655 --> 00:09:33,790 and up here, 50 miles into the island's interior. 223 00:09:33,834 --> 00:09:37,533 Amongst the thistles and the thorns, 224 00:09:37,577 --> 00:09:41,711 this harsh, brutal landscape. 225 00:09:41,755 --> 00:09:44,279 It's a place where people have always retreated 226 00:09:44,322 --> 00:09:47,151 to escape marauding armies 227 00:09:47,195 --> 00:09:49,589 and where little has changed for millennia. 228 00:09:51,721 --> 00:09:56,030 These structures here are known as nuraghe. 229 00:09:56,073 --> 00:09:58,510 They were built by a people who lived here 230 00:09:58,554 --> 00:10:00,643 almost 4,000 years ago, so they're practically 231 00:10:00,687 --> 00:10:03,211 as old as the pyramids. 232 00:10:03,254 --> 00:10:06,301 The ancient landscape is famous for bandits, 233 00:10:06,344 --> 00:10:10,131 age-old customs, and being very anti-authority. 234 00:10:12,350 --> 00:10:14,918 Rumor has it that even the mafia failed 235 00:10:14,962 --> 00:10:17,181 to take hold here as people aren't interested 236 00:10:17,225 --> 00:10:20,881 in group activities of any kind. 237 00:10:20,924 --> 00:10:23,884 But one group dynamic is not just allowed, 238 00:10:23,927 --> 00:10:25,581 it's positively encouraged. 239 00:10:25,625 --> 00:10:28,366 [bees buzzing] 240 00:10:29,977 --> 00:10:31,979 - [speaking Italian] 241 00:10:32,022 --> 00:10:33,981 - Luigi Manias and his family 242 00:10:34,024 --> 00:10:37,506 have been keeping beehives since 1631, 243 00:10:37,549 --> 00:10:40,204 and Luigi wants to show me the ropes. 244 00:10:43,599 --> 00:10:44,861 - No. 245 00:10:46,515 --> 00:10:47,864 - Si. 246 00:10:47,908 --> 00:10:51,085 [both laugh] 247 00:10:51,128 --> 00:10:52,477 I'm not going near the bees. 248 00:10:52,521 --> 00:10:54,044 We have a long shoot ahead. 249 00:10:54,088 --> 00:10:59,006 If I, you know, multiple stings, that'd be bad. 250 00:11:02,749 --> 00:11:05,099 - All spring, the bees in these hives 251 00:11:05,142 --> 00:11:07,405 work industriously to collect pollen 252 00:11:07,449 --> 00:11:09,973 from the diverse wildflowers that flourish here. 253 00:11:11,758 --> 00:11:14,674 - The result is a thousand-flower honey. 254 00:11:22,159 --> 00:11:24,684 - Oh, my gosh. Beautiful. 255 00:11:24,727 --> 00:11:26,337 Absolutely beautiful. 256 00:11:29,123 --> 00:11:31,865 - [gasps] Oh, my God. 257 00:11:35,912 --> 00:11:38,741 - Mmm. Mmm. 258 00:11:38,785 --> 00:11:40,525 It's so sweet. 259 00:11:40,569 --> 00:11:41,831 Delicious. 260 00:11:44,225 --> 00:11:46,706 Luigi has won multiple awards for his honey, 261 00:11:46,749 --> 00:11:48,882 but there's one nectar so prized, 262 00:11:48,925 --> 00:11:50,753 he keeps it hidden away indoors. 263 00:11:50,797 --> 00:11:51,972 Wow. 264 00:12:01,808 --> 00:12:03,157 - Si, si, si. 265 00:12:07,596 --> 00:12:09,250 It's different. - It's the opposite. 266 00:12:09,293 --> 00:12:10,338 - It's different. - Okay. 267 00:12:10,381 --> 00:12:11,469 [both laugh] 268 00:12:13,428 --> 00:12:15,125 - Stanley. 269 00:12:25,788 --> 00:12:29,487 - This is miele di corbezzolo. 270 00:12:29,531 --> 00:12:32,012 For over 2,000 years, it's been made 271 00:12:32,055 --> 00:12:34,884 from the white, bell-shaped flowers of the corbezzolo, 272 00:12:34,928 --> 00:12:37,800 or wild strawberry tree. 273 00:12:37,844 --> 00:12:40,063 The blossoms produce limited nectar, 274 00:12:40,107 --> 00:12:42,979 so this honey is something of a connoisseur's choice. 275 00:12:43,023 --> 00:12:44,502 - Prego. 276 00:12:53,555 --> 00:12:57,515 When the Romans occupied Sardinia two millennia ago, 277 00:12:57,559 --> 00:13:01,563 Cicero said, "Everything Sardinia produces is bad. 278 00:13:01,606 --> 00:13:03,260 Even the honey is bitter." 279 00:13:04,174 --> 00:13:05,306 - No, no, no. 280 00:13:06,742 --> 00:13:08,526 No, no, no, no. 281 00:13:08,570 --> 00:13:10,180 But for Sardinians, 282 00:13:10,224 --> 00:13:12,487 let's just say it's like catnip. 283 00:13:23,193 --> 00:13:24,804 - Wet leaves. Yes. 284 00:13:26,240 --> 00:13:27,981 - It smells like smoke. 285 00:13:28,024 --> 00:13:29,156 It tastes like smoke. 286 00:13:30,897 --> 00:13:32,812 Smoke. 287 00:13:32,855 --> 00:13:33,813 - Yeah. 288 00:13:38,556 --> 00:13:41,690 - Because of its strong flavor, locals often pair 289 00:13:41,733 --> 00:13:43,605 bitter honey with rich meats. 290 00:13:43,648 --> 00:13:45,607 [laughter] 291 00:13:45,650 --> 00:13:49,219 So Luigi's friend, Giovanni, has been spit-roasting a lamb. 292 00:13:49,263 --> 00:13:51,700 - [speaking Italian] 293 00:14:04,408 --> 00:14:06,671 - Yeah. Yeah. 294 00:14:06,715 --> 00:14:08,369 Yes! 295 00:14:08,412 --> 00:14:10,458 Yes! 296 00:14:12,242 --> 00:14:13,330 - Yeah? Yeah? 297 00:14:17,117 --> 00:14:18,205 - [laughs] - No? 298 00:14:29,651 --> 00:14:31,653 - Legend has it that after stealing 299 00:14:31,696 --> 00:14:33,481 from Roman landowners, 300 00:14:33,524 --> 00:14:36,005 the wily thieves would repair to the hills 301 00:14:36,049 --> 00:14:40,096 and enjoy this dish, smothered in the same bitter honey 302 00:14:40,140 --> 00:14:42,969 that their occupiers had scoffed at. 303 00:14:43,012 --> 00:14:44,666 That's incredible 304 00:14:54,502 --> 00:14:55,895 - Mmm. - Bello. 305 00:14:55,938 --> 00:14:57,897 - Wow. 306 00:14:57,940 --> 00:15:00,725 It doesn't taste bitter at all. It's sweet. 307 00:15:00,769 --> 00:15:03,554 But also the fat, mixing in with the fat, it's perfect. 308 00:15:07,863 --> 00:15:10,126 - This is the food of resistance. 309 00:15:10,170 --> 00:15:11,214 Wow. 310 00:15:11,258 --> 00:15:12,737 A delicious resistance. 311 00:15:12,781 --> 00:15:14,957 That is not what I expected. 312 00:15:15,001 --> 00:15:17,046 Okay, stop filming. 313 00:15:17,090 --> 00:15:20,310 - Stop. Now. 314 00:15:20,354 --> 00:15:22,747 - Bandits at heart, the crew can't resist 315 00:15:22,791 --> 00:15:24,140 giving us a helping hand. 316 00:15:27,448 --> 00:15:29,102 - Amazing. Grazie. - Amazing. 317 00:15:29,145 --> 00:15:30,886 - Grazie. Grazie. 318 00:15:40,026 --> 00:15:42,550 [barking] 319 00:15:42,593 --> 00:15:44,552 [light jazzy music] 320 00:15:44,595 --> 00:15:47,337 - Climbing further into Sardinia's interior, 321 00:15:47,381 --> 00:15:49,992 you reach an untouched region containing 322 00:15:50,036 --> 00:15:52,864 the island's hardest hills and steepest mountains. 323 00:15:52,908 --> 00:15:55,345 It's known as Barbagia. 324 00:15:57,173 --> 00:15:59,001 Here, shepherds live from the land 325 00:15:59,045 --> 00:16:01,438 as their ancestors did, 326 00:16:01,482 --> 00:16:03,963 with no one to interfere with them. 327 00:16:05,268 --> 00:16:10,143 But life here is tough. 328 00:16:10,186 --> 00:16:11,274 Ciao. 329 00:16:11,318 --> 00:16:13,885 [both speaking Italian] 330 00:16:15,496 --> 00:16:17,193 [both speaking Italian] 331 00:16:19,500 --> 00:16:20,501 - Ah. 332 00:16:24,244 --> 00:16:26,855 - [laughs] 333 00:16:27,682 --> 00:16:30,337 Each summer, Antonio Putzu spends 334 00:16:30,380 --> 00:16:34,036 three hard months herding Sardo sheep on this mountain. 335 00:16:34,080 --> 00:16:38,040 But like the local shepherds, the sheep enjoy their liberty. 336 00:16:59,757 --> 00:17:02,456 - But it's a necessary freedom. 337 00:17:02,499 --> 00:17:05,676 Pecorino Sardo, the island's coveted cheese, 338 00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:09,637 can only be made from the milk of wild-grazing Sardo sheep. 339 00:17:14,163 --> 00:17:15,251 - Si. 340 00:17:20,430 --> 00:17:22,215 - Okay. Good. Thank God. Thank God. 341 00:17:29,961 --> 00:17:33,182 - Si. Oh, in between my legs? Like this? 342 00:17:35,793 --> 00:17:37,926 - Yeah. Now what? Oh, I see. 343 00:17:40,320 --> 00:17:42,713 I swear, it's not just me. 344 00:17:42,757 --> 00:17:44,846 Hand milking is harder than it looks. 345 00:17:44,889 --> 00:17:46,630 God damn it! 346 00:17:46,674 --> 00:17:48,632 I'm so afraid of hurting it. 347 00:17:48,676 --> 00:17:49,851 You do it. 348 00:17:50,939 --> 00:17:51,983 [laughs] 349 00:17:54,508 --> 00:17:56,945 For Antonio, this hard work is worth it 350 00:17:56,988 --> 00:17:58,816 for the distinctive, fatty milk 351 00:17:58,860 --> 00:18:00,470 the Sardo sheep produce. 352 00:18:00,514 --> 00:18:02,777 That's a lot of milk. Wow. 353 00:18:11,786 --> 00:18:13,048 - Oh, my God. It's delicious. 354 00:18:14,049 --> 00:18:15,094 - Yeah. 355 00:18:23,580 --> 00:18:25,495 - While much of the island's grassland 356 00:18:25,539 --> 00:18:27,628 has been sold to private owners, 357 00:18:27,671 --> 00:18:31,849 these rocky outcrops are still owned by the Sardinian people. 358 00:18:45,254 --> 00:18:47,561 - Grazie. 359 00:18:47,604 --> 00:18:48,997 Beautiful. 360 00:18:49,040 --> 00:18:51,086 The milk from the Sardo sheep is used 361 00:18:51,130 --> 00:18:53,262 in a surprising range of cheeses. 362 00:18:57,962 --> 00:19:00,878 - This Pecorino Sardo is made during winter 363 00:19:00,922 --> 00:19:02,184 when grass and herbs are plentiful. 364 00:19:02,228 --> 00:19:03,838 Yeah. 365 00:19:03,881 --> 00:19:06,362 Giving the cheese a mildly aromatic flavor. 366 00:19:06,406 --> 00:19:07,537 That's nice. 367 00:19:10,932 --> 00:19:12,934 - But I've heard whisperings of another, 368 00:19:12,977 --> 00:19:15,328 more notorious cheese made in this region. 369 00:19:26,252 --> 00:19:27,731 - Oh, no, those? 370 00:19:34,956 --> 00:19:35,957 - Yeah? 371 00:19:40,657 --> 00:19:42,920 - Due to the presence of parasites, 372 00:19:42,964 --> 00:19:46,228 it's illegal to sell casu marzu commercially, 373 00:19:46,272 --> 00:19:48,839 but Antonio makes something close to it, 374 00:19:48,883 --> 00:19:50,450 parasites not included. 375 00:19:52,278 --> 00:19:54,367 - [laughs] 376 00:20:04,203 --> 00:20:06,205 - There's a reason Antonio works on the mountains 377 00:20:06,248 --> 00:20:07,815 and not in marketing. 378 00:20:07,858 --> 00:20:09,860 But here goes. 379 00:20:09,904 --> 00:20:10,905 Mmm. 380 00:20:17,825 --> 00:20:19,261 - No, it's nice. 381 00:20:19,305 --> 00:20:20,523 That's really nice. 382 00:20:22,177 --> 00:20:25,049 Outside, Antonio and his fellow shepherds 383 00:20:25,093 --> 00:20:28,052 are making a dish as old as the surrounding hills, 384 00:20:28,096 --> 00:20:30,229 sa ventre. 385 00:20:30,272 --> 00:20:32,187 It's a kind of Sardinian haggis, 386 00:20:32,231 --> 00:20:33,710 and it all starts with another 387 00:20:33,754 --> 00:20:35,843 less than conventional ingredient, 388 00:20:35,886 --> 00:20:37,366 sheep's blood. 389 00:20:54,731 --> 00:20:56,994 - Pecorino Sardo is added 390 00:20:57,038 --> 00:20:59,649 to bring a nutty, buttery flavor to the mixture. 391 00:20:59,693 --> 00:21:02,826 And flatbread gives it body and texture. 392 00:21:05,089 --> 00:21:06,700 - [laughs] 393 00:21:11,357 --> 00:21:13,881 - To balance the meaty richness of the dish, 394 00:21:13,924 --> 00:21:16,405 Antonio has sourced wild mint from the mountains. 395 00:21:18,886 --> 00:21:20,061 - Oh, yeah. 396 00:21:24,065 --> 00:21:26,328 - Wow. 397 00:21:26,372 --> 00:21:29,592 The mixture is then poured into a sheep's stomach. 398 00:21:34,641 --> 00:21:37,600 - I am very adventurous, but... 399 00:21:37,644 --> 00:21:39,298 sometimes, I have real fear. 400 00:21:41,038 --> 00:21:43,780 I think this is one of those times. 401 00:21:43,824 --> 00:21:45,521 Oof. 402 00:21:45,565 --> 00:21:50,004 Cooked for 20 minutes, the sa ventre is now ready. 403 00:21:50,047 --> 00:21:52,223 But I'm not sure I'm ready for it. 404 00:21:57,490 --> 00:22:00,406 - [laughs] 405 00:22:00,449 --> 00:22:02,146 - [speaking Italian] - Cheers. 406 00:22:02,190 --> 00:22:03,452 - [speaking Italian] 407 00:22:08,675 --> 00:22:10,938 It's really good. It's really good. 408 00:22:10,981 --> 00:22:15,203 And I'm not saying it because my new friends are here. 409 00:22:15,246 --> 00:22:17,597 The mint and pecorino temper the flavor 410 00:22:17,640 --> 00:22:21,949 of the blood and offal, like a perfectly seasoned sausage. 411 00:22:31,828 --> 00:22:33,700 - It's delicious. 412 00:22:33,743 --> 00:22:35,832 I don't know that I'll be making it at home, 413 00:22:35,876 --> 00:22:37,791 but it's delicious. 414 00:22:37,834 --> 00:22:40,707 - [singing in Olianese dialect] 415 00:22:40,750 --> 00:22:43,623 ♪ 416 00:22:43,666 --> 00:22:46,495 - As a parting gift, Antonio and his friends 417 00:22:46,539 --> 00:22:50,717 are sharing a traditional song in the local Olianese dialect 418 00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:52,806 about two shepherds who slaughter a sheep 419 00:22:52,849 --> 00:22:54,590 to make sa ventre. 420 00:23:05,471 --> 00:23:08,387 [all singing] 421 00:23:36,240 --> 00:23:43,160 ♪ 422 00:24:11,537 --> 00:24:14,017 [bell ringing] 423 00:24:14,061 --> 00:24:15,889 - I just think it's gorgeous. 424 00:24:15,932 --> 00:24:17,717 It's very peaceful. 425 00:24:17,760 --> 00:24:19,283 - It's very quiet. Yeah. - Yes. 426 00:24:19,327 --> 00:24:21,155 I don't want to tell anybody about it. 427 00:24:21,198 --> 00:24:23,810 [both laugh] 428 00:24:23,853 --> 00:24:27,074 Five miles west of the Sardinian mainland 429 00:24:27,117 --> 00:24:29,555 sits the small island of San Pietro, 430 00:24:29,598 --> 00:24:34,255 home to just one town, Carloforte. 431 00:24:34,298 --> 00:24:37,345 It's an extraordinarily close-knit community here, 432 00:24:37,388 --> 00:24:40,000 with shared roots and a shared dialect 433 00:24:40,043 --> 00:24:43,525 dating back over 300 years, when the town was founded 434 00:24:43,569 --> 00:24:46,354 by just 30 families from Liguria. 435 00:24:46,397 --> 00:24:48,530 - We have the double language, Italian and Ligurian. 436 00:24:48,574 --> 00:24:50,445 - Yes. And Ligurian. Yeah. 437 00:24:50,489 --> 00:24:51,751 I absolutely love it! 438 00:24:53,927 --> 00:24:57,365 [light music] 439 00:24:57,408 --> 00:25:00,586 Chef Luigi Pomata is taking me to discover 440 00:25:00,629 --> 00:25:04,198 the activity that's always bound this community together, 441 00:25:04,241 --> 00:25:05,460 tuna fishing. 442 00:25:08,550 --> 00:25:09,595 - We have a respect for the tuna. 443 00:25:09,638 --> 00:25:10,987 - Yeah, yeah. 444 00:25:11,031 --> 00:25:13,250 - If Carloforte exists, it exists 445 00:25:13,294 --> 00:25:14,556 because we have the tuna. 446 00:25:14,600 --> 00:25:16,427 - Yeah. Let me see your tattoo. 447 00:25:16,471 --> 00:25:17,690 - It's Carloforte Island. 448 00:25:17,733 --> 00:25:19,692 - Oh, I see. Yeah. - And the tuna. 449 00:25:19,735 --> 00:25:22,564 - Oh, that's good. I like that. 450 00:25:22,608 --> 00:25:24,914 It's not surprising tuna is something 451 00:25:24,958 --> 00:25:26,568 of a local obsession. 452 00:25:26,612 --> 00:25:28,570 For two months a year, fishermen come together 453 00:25:28,614 --> 00:25:31,051 to catch the coveted bluefin tuna, 454 00:25:31,094 --> 00:25:33,923 as it migrates here from the East Atlantic. 455 00:25:33,967 --> 00:25:36,230 Used in the finest sushi restaurants, 456 00:25:36,273 --> 00:25:38,667 bluefin is pretty special. 457 00:25:38,711 --> 00:25:41,278 And to catch it, they use an equally special system 458 00:25:41,322 --> 00:25:43,367 of nets known as tonnare. 459 00:25:43,411 --> 00:25:45,021 - Here we have the nets. 460 00:25:45,065 --> 00:25:48,155 The big line we call coda is one kilometer. 461 00:25:48,198 --> 00:25:50,810 - Really? - Yeah. 462 00:25:50,853 --> 00:25:54,596 - The coda blocks the path of the migrating tuna. 463 00:25:54,640 --> 00:25:56,250 As they swim around it, 464 00:25:56,293 --> 00:25:58,121 they're funneled into a sequence 465 00:25:58,165 --> 00:26:00,254 of netted chambers, with gaps wide enough 466 00:26:00,297 --> 00:26:03,257 for smaller fish to escape. 467 00:26:03,300 --> 00:26:05,999 The largest tuna enter a final chamber, 468 00:26:06,042 --> 00:26:09,002 where fishermen work together in a finely tuned drill 469 00:26:09,045 --> 00:26:11,047 to lift them out of the sea. 470 00:26:11,091 --> 00:26:12,483 Those are all the chambers? 471 00:26:12,527 --> 00:26:13,702 - It's the chamber. Yeah. 472 00:26:13,746 --> 00:26:16,096 - There's no collateral... 473 00:26:16,139 --> 00:26:17,576 - No. 474 00:26:17,619 --> 00:26:18,751 - Damage or anything? - No. 475 00:26:18,794 --> 00:26:21,492 It's sustainable. 476 00:26:21,536 --> 00:26:24,191 - To avoid overfishing, the fishermen here 477 00:26:24,234 --> 00:26:27,803 never take more than 8% of the migrating tuna, 478 00:26:27,847 --> 00:26:30,197 ensuring the Atlantic bluefin population 479 00:26:30,240 --> 00:26:32,808 remains a very healthy size. 480 00:26:32,852 --> 00:26:36,377 - When the weight is okay, they open the nets 481 00:26:36,420 --> 00:26:39,902 and 1,000 tuna, 2,000 tuna go out. 482 00:26:39,946 --> 00:26:42,078 That is sustainable. 483 00:26:42,122 --> 00:26:45,342 - Luigi's Ligurian ancestors learned this way of fishing 484 00:26:45,386 --> 00:26:48,737 in Tunisia, but here in Carloforte, 485 00:26:48,781 --> 00:26:52,915 they've built a community around it. 486 00:26:52,959 --> 00:26:55,265 And at his family restaurant, Luigi is known 487 00:26:55,309 --> 00:26:58,965 to locals as the King of Tuna. 488 00:26:59,008 --> 00:27:01,054 What have you got, Luigi? 489 00:27:01,097 --> 00:27:03,796 - The tuna belly, in our bellies. 490 00:27:03,839 --> 00:27:05,928 - [laughs] 491 00:27:05,972 --> 00:27:08,714 You put the belly in the belly. - Yeah, belly in the belly. 492 00:27:08,757 --> 00:27:10,237 You want to try? - Yes! 493 00:27:13,893 --> 00:27:15,590 Oh, my God, yes. 494 00:27:15,634 --> 00:27:17,026 That's the fatty-- 495 00:27:17,070 --> 00:27:18,462 - Yes, this is-- this is the chutoro. 496 00:27:18,506 --> 00:27:20,595 - Yeah, the toro, yeah. Mmm-mmm-mmm. 497 00:27:20,639 --> 00:27:23,859 - You want a taste? - Yes. 498 00:27:23,903 --> 00:27:27,776 - I like this tuna because the stomach is empty. 499 00:27:27,820 --> 00:27:30,213 - Once inside the tonnare nets, 500 00:27:30,257 --> 00:27:31,954 the tuna don't eat, 501 00:27:31,998 --> 00:27:33,913 so their flesh is uncontaminated 502 00:27:33,956 --> 00:27:35,697 by the flavors of other fish. 503 00:27:35,741 --> 00:27:38,134 Oh, man! 504 00:27:38,178 --> 00:27:39,483 Incredible. 505 00:27:39,527 --> 00:27:41,355 - Here, the taste is natural. - Yeah. 506 00:27:41,398 --> 00:27:46,360 - No anchovies, no mackerel, nothing. 507 00:27:46,403 --> 00:27:50,233 - Luigi's using this tuna in a local family favorite, 508 00:27:50,277 --> 00:27:54,150 a pasta dish called cassulli alla Carlofortina. 509 00:27:54,194 --> 00:27:57,763 - Olive oil, pine nuts, and we blend. 510 00:27:57,806 --> 00:28:01,375 - He's combining it with pesto and cassulli pasta, 511 00:28:01,418 --> 00:28:03,986 both rooted in Ligurian tradition. 512 00:28:04,030 --> 00:28:07,860 - It's the pasta we use for the Sunday. 513 00:28:07,903 --> 00:28:10,036 You know, when all people come, when family come... 514 00:28:10,079 --> 00:28:11,864 - Right, right. - And we do the pasta. 515 00:28:11,907 --> 00:28:13,692 - Your grandfather... - Yeah. 516 00:28:13,735 --> 00:28:15,084 - Started this restaurant, right? 517 00:28:15,128 --> 00:28:16,651 - Yeah, three generation. 518 00:28:16,695 --> 00:28:18,609 - And will your son do it too? 519 00:28:18,653 --> 00:28:20,307 - I wish. 520 00:28:20,350 --> 00:28:22,396 I wish. - [laughs] 521 00:28:22,439 --> 00:28:24,746 As you can expect, if your family eats tuna 522 00:28:24,790 --> 00:28:27,706 day in and day out for every meal, 523 00:28:27,749 --> 00:28:30,230 you get all sorts of ideas about what to do with it. 524 00:28:30,273 --> 00:28:34,843 So you're gonna use the boiled tuna. 525 00:28:34,887 --> 00:28:36,627 - The boiled tuna, yes. - Right. 526 00:28:36,671 --> 00:28:38,586 Yeah, well... 527 00:28:38,629 --> 00:28:41,023 See, I've always thought tuna should be 528 00:28:41,067 --> 00:28:45,506 cooked lightly or not at all, but Luigi is adamant. 529 00:28:45,549 --> 00:28:48,509 - You want to taste? - Sure. 530 00:28:48,552 --> 00:28:50,772 And for him, it's a great way to retain 531 00:28:50,816 --> 00:28:52,643 the fish's natural moisture. 532 00:28:54,645 --> 00:28:56,299 It's good. 533 00:28:56,343 --> 00:28:57,779 I prefer that. 534 00:28:57,823 --> 00:29:00,782 [both laugh] 535 00:29:00,826 --> 00:29:02,741 - We take out the skin. 536 00:29:02,784 --> 00:29:05,744 And we put the tomatoes in. 537 00:29:08,050 --> 00:29:10,183 Now we get the tuna boiling. 538 00:29:10,226 --> 00:29:13,142 And we do that. 539 00:29:13,186 --> 00:29:14,404 - Beautiful pasta. 540 00:29:14,448 --> 00:29:16,885 - And now we put the pesto. 541 00:29:16,929 --> 00:29:19,105 - Yeah. - Never cook the pesto. 542 00:29:19,148 --> 00:29:21,281 - No. 543 00:29:21,324 --> 00:29:22,935 - A nice portion. 544 00:29:25,633 --> 00:29:28,462 - Yeah, that's beautiful. 545 00:29:28,505 --> 00:29:31,073 - And just in the end, we put the pecorino cheese. 546 00:29:31,117 --> 00:29:32,596 - A little pecorino. - Yeah. 547 00:29:32,640 --> 00:29:34,120 You want a taste? - Yeah! 548 00:29:34,163 --> 00:29:37,166 - [laughs] - I thought you'd never ask. 549 00:29:37,210 --> 00:29:40,561 I'm still not convinced by the idea of boiled tuna. 550 00:29:40,604 --> 00:29:41,910 - That's for you. - Thank you. 551 00:29:41,954 --> 00:29:43,912 But it's Luigi's family tradition, 552 00:29:43,956 --> 00:29:45,784 so I'm keeping an open mind. 553 00:29:50,876 --> 00:29:51,877 - It's okay? Gonna be all right? 554 00:29:51,920 --> 00:29:53,748 - Yeah. - [laughs] 555 00:29:53,792 --> 00:29:57,447 - I mean, who am I to argue with the King of Tuna? 556 00:29:57,491 --> 00:30:00,711 That's very okay. That's delicious. 557 00:30:00,755 --> 00:30:03,323 Who wants to look at how beautiful that is? 558 00:30:05,455 --> 00:30:09,285 I'm never using any other kind of tuna from now on. 559 00:30:09,329 --> 00:30:12,419 It's the sheer individuality of people like Luigi 560 00:30:12,462 --> 00:30:15,509 that keeps Carloforte feeling and tasting 561 00:30:15,552 --> 00:30:19,426 totally distinct from anywhere else you'll find in Sardinia. 562 00:30:26,955 --> 00:30:29,871 [light music] 563 00:30:29,915 --> 00:30:33,396 ♪ 564 00:30:34,833 --> 00:30:35,790 - Buongiorno. 565 00:30:39,881 --> 00:30:40,882 - Si. 566 00:30:40,926 --> 00:30:42,449 Nice. 567 00:30:44,538 --> 00:30:46,192 Oh, my God. 568 00:30:49,369 --> 00:30:51,110 - Si. 569 00:30:51,153 --> 00:30:53,590 Doesn't it look like a pork pie? 570 00:30:53,634 --> 00:30:55,331 You can respond to me. - It does look like a pork pie. 571 00:30:55,375 --> 00:30:57,812 - Thank you. Thanks. Thanks for your help. 572 00:30:57,856 --> 00:31:00,293 Sitting on the northwest coast of Sardinia 573 00:31:00,336 --> 00:31:02,817 is the city of Alghero, 574 00:31:02,861 --> 00:31:05,689 known to locals as Barceloneta. 575 00:31:05,733 --> 00:31:07,691 It's had a distinctly Spanish flavor 576 00:31:07,735 --> 00:31:09,606 ever since the 14th century, 577 00:31:09,650 --> 00:31:11,913 when it was conquered by the Kingdom of Aragon 578 00:31:11,957 --> 00:31:14,307 from northeast Spain. 579 00:31:15,482 --> 00:31:18,093 Protected by the sea and the city walls, 580 00:31:18,137 --> 00:31:20,530 the people of Alghero have a deep attachment 581 00:31:20,574 --> 00:31:22,402 to their local identity. 582 00:31:26,885 --> 00:31:28,234 At the local fish market, 583 00:31:28,277 --> 00:31:31,541 I'm meeting Chef Antonietta Salaris, 584 00:31:31,585 --> 00:31:33,935 who considers herself Algherese first 585 00:31:33,979 --> 00:31:35,763 and Sardinian second. 586 00:31:35,806 --> 00:31:38,592 - Hey, Giuseppe. [speaking Catalan] 587 00:31:39,941 --> 00:31:41,551 - [speaking Catalan] 588 00:31:41,595 --> 00:31:43,205 - [speaking Italian] 589 00:31:53,868 --> 00:31:55,696 - My understanding of the local dialect 590 00:31:55,739 --> 00:31:58,481 is limited, to say the least. 591 00:31:58,525 --> 00:32:00,744 But I've always understood lobster. 592 00:32:13,888 --> 00:32:15,846 - Si, si. Si. 593 00:32:15,890 --> 00:32:16,891 - Okay. 594 00:32:18,893 --> 00:32:19,981 - Okay. 595 00:32:22,201 --> 00:32:24,116 - The pride of the local community, 596 00:32:24,159 --> 00:32:25,856 Alghero's lobsters are considered 597 00:32:25,900 --> 00:32:28,250 among the best in the world. 598 00:32:28,294 --> 00:32:30,426 And the secret to their delicate flavor 599 00:32:30,470 --> 00:32:31,993 is in the local waters. 600 00:32:34,343 --> 00:32:36,650 The Gulf of Alghero is saltier than the ocean 601 00:32:36,693 --> 00:32:39,609 and filtered by a red coral reef. 602 00:32:39,653 --> 00:32:41,742 It's unusually clean. 603 00:32:41,785 --> 00:32:44,049 At Antonietta's fish restaurant, 604 00:32:44,092 --> 00:32:47,530 lobster, or the Queen of the Sea, as locals call it, 605 00:32:47,574 --> 00:32:48,836 has pride of place. 606 00:32:55,886 --> 00:32:57,845 - Antonietta is making a local dish 607 00:32:57,888 --> 00:32:59,890 called lobster alla Catalana, 608 00:32:59,934 --> 00:33:01,892 which is prepared with a fresh salad. 609 00:33:16,168 --> 00:33:17,343 - [laughs] 610 00:33:37,406 --> 00:33:38,973 - Si. [laughs] 611 00:33:47,938 --> 00:33:50,332 - Whoa! Look at that. 612 00:33:50,376 --> 00:33:53,857 Antonietta belongs to a long line of Sardinian women 613 00:33:53,901 --> 00:33:57,513 who, since medieval times, have managed not only the home 614 00:33:57,557 --> 00:33:59,428 but often the family business. 615 00:33:59,472 --> 00:34:00,864 Mmm-mmm-mmm. 616 00:34:10,004 --> 00:34:12,224 - Oh, my God. Yeah. 617 00:34:12,267 --> 00:34:15,488 In America, the eggs tend to be thrown out. 618 00:34:15,531 --> 00:34:18,404 But Antonietta blends them with a simple vinaigrette 619 00:34:18,447 --> 00:34:20,014 to add a salty sweet flavor. 620 00:34:28,283 --> 00:34:31,330 [shell cracking] 621 00:34:31,373 --> 00:34:33,723 - Why is that sound so satisfying? 622 00:34:33,767 --> 00:34:36,509 On goes the Catalan salad of onions, 623 00:34:36,552 --> 00:34:38,337 vinaigrette, and tomatoes. 624 00:34:38,380 --> 00:34:40,469 But the local lobster is the star. 625 00:34:40,513 --> 00:34:43,603 Look at that. Oh, my God. 626 00:34:46,127 --> 00:34:48,216 - Beautiful. 627 00:34:48,260 --> 00:34:51,828 Alghero lobster has admirers across the world. 628 00:34:51,872 --> 00:34:54,135 Queen Elizabeth II even requested it 629 00:34:54,179 --> 00:34:55,267 for her wedding banquet. 630 00:34:56,833 --> 00:34:58,792 - Prego. - Grazie. Oh, my gosh. 631 00:34:58,835 --> 00:35:00,098 So beautiful. 632 00:35:02,709 --> 00:35:04,493 - But there's room for only one sovereign 633 00:35:04,537 --> 00:35:05,755 in this restaurant. 634 00:35:16,244 --> 00:35:18,420 - Mmm. - Bravo. 635 00:35:33,087 --> 00:35:34,175 - Si. 636 00:35:44,229 --> 00:35:47,362 - Sardinian Catalans have had 600 years 637 00:35:47,406 --> 00:35:50,060 to develop the perfect way to eat a lobster. 638 00:35:50,104 --> 00:35:52,628 And here, under Antonietta's reign, 639 00:35:52,672 --> 00:35:54,891 no one will be allowed to forget it. 640 00:35:54,935 --> 00:35:56,893 Wow. 641 00:35:56,937 --> 00:35:58,547 This is so good. 642 00:35:58,591 --> 00:36:00,506 I have to toast to you because this is just 643 00:36:00,549 --> 00:36:03,857 so f--delicious. 644 00:36:03,900 --> 00:36:05,424 both: Cheers. 645 00:36:05,467 --> 00:36:06,860 - Cheers, everybody. 646 00:36:12,387 --> 00:36:14,389 - [laughs] 647 00:36:23,268 --> 00:36:26,401 [soft music] 648 00:36:26,445 --> 00:36:28,708 - Across the island's interior, 649 00:36:28,751 --> 00:36:31,972 many smaller communities have fallen into decay, 650 00:36:32,015 --> 00:36:36,890 as jobs in rural industries have become fewer and fewer. 651 00:36:36,933 --> 00:36:39,849 But in Battista, in Northeast Sardinia, 652 00:36:39,893 --> 00:36:44,158 baker Simonetta Bazzu came up with a radical plan 653 00:36:44,202 --> 00:36:46,639 to bring her family village back to life. 654 00:36:46,682 --> 00:36:47,814 She bought it. 655 00:36:50,556 --> 00:36:51,557 - Si. 656 00:36:56,910 --> 00:36:58,999 - Simonetta fears that ancient ways of cooking 657 00:36:59,042 --> 00:37:01,958 could be lost as people leave the island, 658 00:37:02,002 --> 00:37:03,960 so she's restoring these buildings 659 00:37:04,004 --> 00:37:06,876 and creating a pioneering cooking school here. 660 00:37:17,322 --> 00:37:18,453 - Si. 661 00:37:22,152 --> 00:37:24,633 As part of her mission, she's been gathering 662 00:37:24,677 --> 00:37:27,593 the island's endangered recipes. 663 00:37:27,636 --> 00:37:31,292 So far, she's discovered over a thousand types of bread... 664 00:37:31,336 --> 00:37:32,772 My God. 665 00:37:32,815 --> 00:37:34,774 Often created for special occasions. 666 00:37:34,817 --> 00:37:36,297 What is that? 667 00:37:36,341 --> 00:37:38,343 - And this is the bread for Easter. 668 00:37:38,386 --> 00:37:42,477 And we make for--to give children. 669 00:37:42,521 --> 00:37:43,783 - Oh, really? - Yes. 670 00:37:43,826 --> 00:37:45,915 - Looks like a mummy. - And--mm-mm. 671 00:37:45,959 --> 00:37:48,962 - One of the island's most celebrated bread recipes 672 00:37:49,005 --> 00:37:53,488 is pane carasau, a 3,000-year-old flatbread. 673 00:37:53,532 --> 00:37:55,795 Traditionally, women would come together to produce 674 00:37:55,838 --> 00:37:59,059 large batches all at once. 675 00:37:59,102 --> 00:38:01,540 And Simonetta has brought in two recruits, 676 00:38:01,583 --> 00:38:04,934 Chiara and Francesca, to demonstrate. 677 00:38:04,978 --> 00:38:06,545 You're the best dressed bread makers 678 00:38:06,588 --> 00:38:07,807 I've ever seen in my life. 679 00:38:07,850 --> 00:38:08,938 - Yes. - Yes. 680 00:38:08,982 --> 00:38:10,766 So you make the dough. 681 00:38:21,386 --> 00:38:22,387 - Mm-hmm. 682 00:38:26,652 --> 00:38:27,870 - Si. 683 00:38:30,525 --> 00:38:32,048 - Beautiful. 684 00:38:32,092 --> 00:38:35,313 Known as carta da musica, music paper, 685 00:38:35,356 --> 00:38:37,402 the bread is meant be rolled so thin 686 00:38:37,445 --> 00:38:39,447 that music can be read through it. 687 00:38:41,449 --> 00:38:42,407 - Oh, yeah. 688 00:38:44,931 --> 00:38:47,934 - Nowadays, pane carasau tends to be made 689 00:38:47,977 --> 00:38:49,675 using conventional ovens. 690 00:38:49,718 --> 00:38:52,068 But Simonetta prefers the authentic flavor 691 00:38:52,112 --> 00:38:53,679 of the wood-fired oven, 692 00:38:53,722 --> 00:38:56,116 even if it requires a production line. 693 00:38:56,159 --> 00:38:57,639 - [speaking Italian] 694 00:39:02,470 --> 00:39:03,558 - Si. 695 00:39:03,602 --> 00:39:04,864 In the extreme heat, 696 00:39:04,907 --> 00:39:06,561 the dough inflates like a balloon. 697 00:39:06,605 --> 00:39:08,737 Yes. [laughs] 698 00:39:08,781 --> 00:39:09,912 It's like a magic act. 699 00:39:12,785 --> 00:39:16,484 - But this traditional method comes with its challenges. 700 00:39:16,528 --> 00:39:19,966 - Ooh! No. - Oh! Aww. 701 00:39:20,009 --> 00:39:23,186 Ah! Ah! - Ah! 702 00:39:29,105 --> 00:39:30,411 - No. 703 00:39:35,285 --> 00:39:37,418 - While Simonetta's baking the dough, 704 00:39:37,462 --> 00:39:40,726 Chiara and Francesca slice the balloons in two. 705 00:39:40,769 --> 00:39:42,815 Mmm-mmm-mmm. 706 00:39:42,858 --> 00:39:45,557 Each half is then put back in the oven for a few seconds 707 00:39:45,600 --> 00:39:47,428 to toast. 708 00:39:49,778 --> 00:39:51,867 [both laugh] 709 00:39:51,911 --> 00:39:53,782 - These ancient methods still have 710 00:39:53,826 --> 00:39:55,958 the power to bring people together, 711 00:39:56,002 --> 00:39:57,482 but the proof is in the pudding. 712 00:39:59,745 --> 00:40:02,487 No, I'm kidding. I'm kidding. I'm kidding. 713 00:40:02,530 --> 00:40:04,097 [laughter] It's delicious. 714 00:40:06,055 --> 00:40:09,407 In the Battista of old, food was in short supply, 715 00:40:09,450 --> 00:40:11,278 so families would cook a warming dish 716 00:40:11,321 --> 00:40:13,628 with any stale bread left over. 717 00:40:27,076 --> 00:40:28,121 - Si, si, si. 718 00:40:30,515 --> 00:40:31,994 - Si. 719 00:40:32,038 --> 00:40:33,866 The pane carasau is layered with a lamb 720 00:40:33,909 --> 00:40:37,870 and vegetable broth, local cheeses, and wild mint. 721 00:40:37,913 --> 00:40:40,481 It's then cooked for 15 minutes. 722 00:40:40,525 --> 00:40:43,353 How beautiful. 723 00:40:43,397 --> 00:40:45,312 Served at big family celebrations, 724 00:40:45,355 --> 00:40:48,054 the dish is known as zuppa cuata. 725 00:40:54,626 --> 00:40:56,062 No. - Yeah. Yeah. 726 00:41:02,329 --> 00:41:03,809 - Jesus. 727 00:41:03,852 --> 00:41:05,854 [laughs] 728 00:41:09,510 --> 00:41:11,599 - A hidden soup. 729 00:41:11,643 --> 00:41:13,514 - Yes. - Oh, I love that. 730 00:41:18,171 --> 00:41:19,477 - Yeah? [laughs] 731 00:41:22,828 --> 00:41:25,221 - Wow. 732 00:41:25,265 --> 00:41:27,572 In Simonetta's hidden soup lies 733 00:41:27,615 --> 00:41:29,487 an unconcealed commitment. 734 00:41:29,530 --> 00:41:31,576 [men singing in Olianese dialect] 735 00:41:31,619 --> 00:41:34,535 By reviving ancient tradition, she'll breathe life 736 00:41:34,579 --> 00:41:36,581 into her village once more. 737 00:41:36,624 --> 00:41:39,888 And this spirit extends across all of Sardinia. 738 00:41:41,673 --> 00:41:43,892 There's a sense that each community, 739 00:41:43,936 --> 00:41:46,547 however small, enriches the whole island. 740 00:41:48,723 --> 00:41:51,683 And it may be that Sardinia's very diversity, 741 00:41:51,726 --> 00:41:54,642 its bits and pieces, is exactly what defines 742 00:41:54,686 --> 00:41:57,123 the character of this island. 743 00:41:57,166 --> 00:41:59,386 A mini continent indeed. 744 00:41:59,429 --> 00:42:05,523 ♪