1 00:00:06,180 --> 00:00:08,225 [plucky music] 2 00:00:08,269 --> 00:00:11,881 - I really have very few memories of it. 3 00:00:11,924 --> 00:00:13,665 ♪ 4 00:00:13,709 --> 00:00:15,667 I've been dreaming of coming back to Calabria 5 00:00:15,711 --> 00:00:17,800 since I was a boy. 6 00:00:17,843 --> 00:00:20,890 I don't remember it being this green. 7 00:00:20,933 --> 00:00:22,848 It's absolutely beautiful. 8 00:00:22,892 --> 00:00:27,027 It's a wild and rugged region steeped in mystery and myth. 9 00:00:28,419 --> 00:00:32,249 A place that's as troubled as it is beautiful. 10 00:00:32,293 --> 00:00:34,382 But Calabria means something more to me. 11 00:00:34,425 --> 00:00:36,862 It's my ancestral homeland. 12 00:00:36,906 --> 00:00:38,473 And I want to get to know the region 13 00:00:38,516 --> 00:00:41,606 that my family left behind all those years ago. 14 00:00:41,650 --> 00:00:43,260 Is this jogging your memory at all? 15 00:00:43,304 --> 00:00:45,045 - That's a long time ago. 16 00:00:45,088 --> 00:00:46,307 - I'm Stanley Tucci. 17 00:00:46,350 --> 00:00:48,091 I'm Italian on both sides, 18 00:00:48,135 --> 00:00:50,876 and I'm traveling across Italy to discover how the food 19 00:00:50,920 --> 00:00:54,489 in each of this country's 20 regions is as unique 20 00:00:54,532 --> 00:00:56,882 as the people and their past. 21 00:00:56,926 --> 00:00:59,276 Caught between a rock and the sea, 22 00:00:59,320 --> 00:01:01,887 the Calabrese are notoriously tough. 23 00:01:01,931 --> 00:01:03,933 - [speaking Italian] 24 00:01:03,976 --> 00:01:05,804 - [yelling in Italian dialect] 25 00:01:05,848 --> 00:01:07,371 - But this is a place 26 00:01:07,415 --> 00:01:09,939 where southern hospitality is a way of life. 27 00:01:09,982 --> 00:01:11,375 - [laughs] 28 00:01:11,419 --> 00:01:13,725 - Oh, my gosh, look at the size of it. 29 00:01:13,769 --> 00:01:14,900 - [speaking Italian] 30 00:01:14,944 --> 00:01:16,337 - [speaking Italian] 31 00:01:18,295 --> 00:01:19,905 - You should open a restaurant. 32 00:01:19,949 --> 00:01:21,385 - [laughs] 33 00:01:21,429 --> 00:01:23,213 - And in this poor region... 34 00:01:23,257 --> 00:01:25,215 All right. 35 00:01:25,259 --> 00:01:27,652 Every meal is a celebration. 36 00:01:27,696 --> 00:01:29,089 Oh, wow. 37 00:01:29,132 --> 00:01:30,960 There's like a million different flavors in there. 38 00:01:31,003 --> 00:01:32,788 [speaking Italian] 39 00:01:32,831 --> 00:01:33,876 - Buon appetito. 40 00:01:35,138 --> 00:01:38,620 [upbeat jazzy music] 41 00:01:38,663 --> 00:01:45,322 ♪ 42 00:01:45,366 --> 00:01:49,065 [bright piano music] 43 00:01:49,109 --> 00:01:52,590 - Calabria sits in the toe of the boot of Italy, 44 00:01:52,634 --> 00:01:54,984 connected to Basilicata in the north 45 00:01:55,027 --> 00:01:57,508 and separated from Sicily in the south 46 00:01:57,552 --> 00:02:00,250 only by the narrow Strait of Messina. 47 00:02:00,294 --> 00:02:02,905 It's a region of rugged landscapes, 48 00:02:02,948 --> 00:02:04,733 dramatic mountain ranges, 49 00:02:04,776 --> 00:02:08,867 and some 500 miles of incredible coastline. 50 00:02:08,911 --> 00:02:11,174 It doesn't have that infrastructure. 51 00:02:11,218 --> 00:02:13,176 It's still a lot of abandoned buildings, 52 00:02:13,220 --> 00:02:16,353 a lot of poverty, a lot of corruption. 53 00:02:16,397 --> 00:02:19,530 It's really unfortunate because it is magnificent. 54 00:02:19,574 --> 00:02:21,793 Like millions of Calabrians, 55 00:02:21,837 --> 00:02:24,796 all four of my grandparents emigrated from this region 56 00:02:24,840 --> 00:02:27,799 with nothing but the clothes on their backs. 57 00:02:27,843 --> 00:02:30,324 So I'm headed first to see the birthplace 58 00:02:30,367 --> 00:02:32,804 of my grandfather, Stanislao Tucci-- 59 00:02:32,848 --> 00:02:36,634 the man whom my father and I are named after-- 60 00:02:36,678 --> 00:02:40,551 the town of Marzi, population 900. 61 00:02:40,595 --> 00:02:43,119 And happily, I'm being joined 62 00:02:43,163 --> 00:02:45,382 by two semi-experienced guides, 63 00:02:45,426 --> 00:02:48,429 my parents, Joan and Stan Tucci. 64 00:02:48,472 --> 00:02:49,691 - Wow, look at that. - Oh, look at the door. 65 00:02:49,734 --> 00:02:51,997 - That's beautiful. - Wow. 66 00:02:52,041 --> 00:02:54,652 - Well, this is nice. We're walking down Via Morti. 67 00:02:54,696 --> 00:02:56,828 - Yeah, I saw that. - The street of the dead. 68 00:02:56,872 --> 00:02:58,569 How nice. - I'm not going down there. 69 00:02:58,613 --> 00:03:00,310 - No, don't go there. - [laughs] 70 00:03:00,354 --> 00:03:03,226 [bouncy classical music] 71 00:03:03,270 --> 00:03:04,749 ♪ 72 00:03:04,793 --> 00:03:07,230 - My father has been to Marzi once before. 73 00:03:07,274 --> 00:03:10,538 And because our family is obsessed with our ancestry, 74 00:03:10,581 --> 00:03:13,149 he suggested we pay a visit to the local town hall 75 00:03:13,193 --> 00:03:16,761 to see what we can dig up about my grandfather's life. 76 00:03:16,805 --> 00:03:18,546 - [speaking Italian] 77 00:03:27,337 --> 00:03:29,034 - [speaking Italian] 78 00:03:29,078 --> 00:03:31,254 Okay, so what year? 79 00:03:31,298 --> 00:03:32,821 1889? 80 00:03:32,864 --> 00:03:34,475 - My father, 1889. 81 00:03:35,780 --> 00:03:37,608 - Okay, '89. 82 00:03:37,652 --> 00:03:39,131 - '89. Wait a minute. 83 00:03:39,175 --> 00:03:40,263 - Come over here, Stan. 84 00:03:41,264 --> 00:03:43,092 - There you go. 85 00:03:43,135 --> 00:03:44,049 - Stanislao. - Yep. 86 00:03:44,093 --> 00:03:45,442 - Ooh, wow. 87 00:03:45,486 --> 00:03:48,140 - Scarpellino, that was his... - Mother? 88 00:03:48,184 --> 00:03:49,054 - No, no, no. - No, scarpellino 89 00:03:49,098 --> 00:03:50,534 was your vocation. 90 00:03:50,578 --> 00:03:51,796 - Yeah. - Stone carver. 91 00:03:51,840 --> 00:03:53,102 - Stone carver. - Oh, a stone carver. 92 00:03:53,145 --> 00:03:54,712 So he was born in '89. 93 00:03:54,756 --> 00:03:56,148 - Yeah. - When did he come to America? 94 00:03:56,192 --> 00:03:57,889 - 1904. 95 00:03:57,933 --> 00:03:58,847 So that makes him... 96 00:03:58,890 --> 00:04:00,457 - Yeah. - 15, 16 years old. 97 00:04:00,501 --> 00:04:02,329 - Did he ever come back to see his parents? 98 00:04:02,372 --> 00:04:04,635 - Once. - They never came to America? 99 00:04:04,679 --> 00:04:07,551 So he only basically only saw his mother one more time... 100 00:04:07,595 --> 00:04:09,379 - That's right. - From the time he was 16-- 101 00:04:09,423 --> 00:04:11,120 15, 16. - It's amazing, isn't it? 102 00:04:11,163 --> 00:04:12,252 - Yeah, yeah, it's incredible. 103 00:04:12,295 --> 00:04:13,253 - And a lot of immigrants didn't. 104 00:04:13,296 --> 00:04:14,471 - I know. I know. 105 00:04:14,515 --> 00:04:16,691 - For a culture that is so family oriented... 106 00:04:16,734 --> 00:04:18,258 - I know. - To just move away, 107 00:04:18,301 --> 00:04:20,085 it's hard to believe. 108 00:04:20,129 --> 00:04:23,567 [bouncy classical music] 109 00:04:23,611 --> 00:04:25,874 - Oh, there you go, Dad. 110 00:04:25,917 --> 00:04:28,529 Look, it's your family home, Famiglia Tucci. 111 00:04:28,572 --> 00:04:29,530 - Does it? - Yeah. 112 00:04:29,573 --> 00:04:30,661 - That's it. - Let's go in. 113 00:04:30,705 --> 00:04:31,836 - [laughs] 114 00:04:31,880 --> 00:04:33,838 - Wow, it could be a relative. - Yeah. 115 00:04:33,882 --> 00:04:35,971 - As it turns out, being a Tucci 116 00:04:36,014 --> 00:04:38,843 isn't that remarkable over here. 117 00:04:38,887 --> 00:04:40,541 - Buongiorno. - Buongiorno. 118 00:04:40,584 --> 00:04:42,499 - Over half of Marzi's population shares 119 00:04:42,543 --> 00:04:44,284 our last name... 120 00:04:44,327 --> 00:04:46,938 Is this what you remember? 121 00:04:46,982 --> 00:04:48,636 - Which turns out to be a big problem, 122 00:04:48,679 --> 00:04:51,421 as my dad wants to find his father's house. 123 00:04:51,465 --> 00:04:53,467 - My recollection, it was perfectly flat. 124 00:04:53,510 --> 00:04:54,816 - Yeah. - And there was a place 125 00:04:54,859 --> 00:04:56,296 with a huge-- - Well, let's-- 126 00:04:56,339 --> 00:04:59,211 let's go ba-- - Huge clock at the top. 127 00:04:59,255 --> 00:05:02,214 - This is the clock that you just said, right? 128 00:05:02,258 --> 00:05:04,782 You remember a flat area. - Yeah, yeah, a flat area. 129 00:05:04,826 --> 00:05:06,697 - But do you remember where the house is? 130 00:05:06,741 --> 00:05:08,351 - I think it was down here. 131 00:05:08,395 --> 00:05:09,483 What street is this? - Watch your-- 132 00:05:09,526 --> 00:05:11,267 watch your step. - Gennaro Tucci, yes. 133 00:05:11,311 --> 00:05:12,964 - Is this jogging your memory at all? 134 00:05:13,008 --> 00:05:15,489 - That's a long time ago. That I remember. 135 00:05:15,532 --> 00:05:17,317 I remember the square. 136 00:05:17,360 --> 00:05:18,883 28. 137 00:05:21,408 --> 00:05:23,845 Where are we? - That's number 30. 138 00:05:23,888 --> 00:05:26,369 - Then that's it. 139 00:05:26,413 --> 00:05:27,936 - So this, we think, 140 00:05:27,979 --> 00:05:30,112 could be the house where your father was born. 141 00:05:30,155 --> 00:05:32,941 - It's only the second time, and obviously, memory fades. 142 00:05:32,984 --> 00:05:34,595 - Yes, I know, I know. 143 00:05:34,638 --> 00:05:36,248 I've always wanted to come here, you know, 144 00:05:36,292 --> 00:05:37,685 'cause I never came... - No. 145 00:05:37,728 --> 00:05:39,730 - When we were young. But I'm glad we saw the town. 146 00:05:39,774 --> 00:05:40,775 - And the square. - Beautiful little town. 147 00:05:40,818 --> 00:05:42,472 Yeah, so pretty. - Yeah. 148 00:05:42,516 --> 00:05:44,387 - Should we eat? - Sure. 149 00:05:44,431 --> 00:05:45,649 - Sounds like a good idea. 150 00:05:45,693 --> 00:05:47,651 Is there a Ristorante Tucci? 151 00:05:47,695 --> 00:05:50,175 - Maybe, but I'm not gonna let you try to find it. 152 00:05:50,219 --> 00:05:51,263 [laughter] 153 00:05:51,307 --> 00:05:52,656 [inquisitive music] 154 00:05:52,700 --> 00:05:55,224 Marzi sits in the valley of the Savuto, 155 00:05:55,267 --> 00:05:57,139 known as the Valley of Wheat, 156 00:05:57,182 --> 00:06:00,185 where fed by the mineral-rich waters of the mountains, 157 00:06:00,229 --> 00:06:03,885 there's a thousand-year-old history of bread-making. 158 00:06:03,928 --> 00:06:05,800 ♪ 159 00:06:05,843 --> 00:06:08,019 And there's a place nearby still making bread 160 00:06:08,063 --> 00:06:10,500 according to ancient Calabrian tradition. 161 00:06:11,414 --> 00:06:12,546 - Wow. 162 00:06:12,589 --> 00:06:14,069 - [speaking Italian] 163 00:06:14,112 --> 00:06:15,592 all: Buongiorno. 164 00:06:15,636 --> 00:06:18,203 - Stanley, Stanley, Giovanna. 165 00:06:18,247 --> 00:06:19,857 - [speaking Italian] 166 00:06:23,470 --> 00:06:26,298 - Pina Olivetti runs Panificio Cuti, 167 00:06:26,342 --> 00:06:28,431 one of the most famous artisanal bakeries 168 00:06:28,475 --> 00:06:29,780 in the region. 169 00:06:33,567 --> 00:06:34,872 - Si. - Ah. 170 00:06:37,571 --> 00:06:39,877 - Oh, my God, that is very heavy. 171 00:06:39,921 --> 00:06:41,705 - Oof-ah. - That's a heavy bread. 172 00:06:41,749 --> 00:06:43,054 - Yeah, yeah. - Oh. [laughs] 173 00:06:44,578 --> 00:06:45,753 - Si. 174 00:06:49,931 --> 00:06:51,498 - Si, si. - Si, si, si, si. 175 00:06:53,456 --> 00:06:54,762 - Yeah. - Yeah. 176 00:06:56,677 --> 00:06:59,331 - Sourdough is a living, breathing bread 177 00:06:59,375 --> 00:07:01,072 that has been made since the beginning 178 00:07:01,116 --> 00:07:03,901 of human civilization, but is somehow still 179 00:07:03,945 --> 00:07:06,077 notoriously tricky to get right. 180 00:07:06,121 --> 00:07:07,078 Oh, my gosh. 181 00:07:07,122 --> 00:07:08,558 That's so hot. 182 00:07:10,168 --> 00:07:11,518 - Si, si, si. 183 00:07:11,561 --> 00:07:13,737 It's slow, natural fermentation means 184 00:07:13,781 --> 00:07:15,826 this bread stays fresh much longer 185 00:07:15,870 --> 00:07:17,001 than ordinary bread. 186 00:07:17,045 --> 00:07:18,829 No trivial matter in a region 187 00:07:18,873 --> 00:07:20,788 where food wasn't always plentiful. 188 00:07:27,055 --> 00:07:27,969 - Si, si, si. 189 00:07:29,187 --> 00:07:31,015 - Si, si. 190 00:07:31,059 --> 00:07:31,973 - Si. 191 00:07:34,323 --> 00:07:36,586 [laughter] 192 00:07:42,636 --> 00:07:45,987 - Knowing we've come to Marzi in search of things past, 193 00:07:46,030 --> 00:07:48,119 Pina's prepared us a little treat that would have been 194 00:07:48,163 --> 00:07:50,774 on every family table a hundred years ago, 195 00:07:50,818 --> 00:07:53,734 a filled bread bowl calledmorzello, 196 00:07:53,777 --> 00:07:55,779 which is typically stuffed with meat 197 00:07:55,823 --> 00:07:57,520 and seasonal vegetables 198 00:07:57,564 --> 00:08:00,305 like local favorite, cime di rapa, 199 00:08:00,349 --> 00:08:02,220 or broccoli rabe. 200 00:08:06,442 --> 00:08:07,530 - Oh, you smell it-- 201 00:08:07,574 --> 00:08:09,489 the bitterness of the cime. - Yeah. 202 00:08:19,194 --> 00:08:22,545 - This ingeniously portable dish meant that farmers, 203 00:08:22,589 --> 00:08:25,896 hunters, and even stonemasons like my grandfather 204 00:08:25,940 --> 00:08:28,508 could carry a not-so-little slice of home 205 00:08:28,551 --> 00:08:29,857 anywhere they went. 206 00:08:36,603 --> 00:08:37,691 - Buono. 207 00:08:43,523 --> 00:08:44,611 - Si. 208 00:08:45,786 --> 00:08:46,874 - That's beautiful. 209 00:08:55,970 --> 00:08:58,189 - [laughs] - Not so bad. 210 00:09:01,671 --> 00:09:03,934 - Oh, my gosh, look at the size of it. 211 00:09:09,636 --> 00:09:10,593 - No, you're first. 212 00:09:10,637 --> 00:09:12,769 [laughter] 213 00:09:12,813 --> 00:09:13,901 - There you go. 214 00:09:20,647 --> 00:09:22,039 - Delicious. - Delicious. 215 00:09:22,083 --> 00:09:24,955 - So good 'cause it's all soaks in. 216 00:09:24,999 --> 00:09:26,261 - Mm. 217 00:09:26,304 --> 00:09:27,697 - Mm. 218 00:09:27,741 --> 00:09:29,394 - That's good for you. That's great. 219 00:09:29,438 --> 00:09:30,744 - It was. Really good. - That's delicious. 220 00:09:33,921 --> 00:09:36,010 As we head out of Marzi, 221 00:09:36,053 --> 00:09:39,274 I think of my grandfather Stanislao leaving Calabria 222 00:09:39,317 --> 00:09:42,190 and of that special bond that Italian immigrants have 223 00:09:42,233 --> 00:09:45,541 to food that reminds them of home. 224 00:09:45,585 --> 00:09:50,198 Perhaps that's why bread is never missing on our table. 225 00:09:55,333 --> 00:09:57,509 [jazzy piano music] 226 00:09:57,553 --> 00:10:00,469 [smooth laid-back music] 227 00:10:00,512 --> 00:10:02,079 ♪ 228 00:10:02,123 --> 00:10:03,603 - While my parents are relaxing 229 00:10:03,646 --> 00:10:05,474 by the pool or the bar, 230 00:10:05,517 --> 00:10:08,433 I'm heading out to a place I've always wanted to visit. 231 00:10:08,477 --> 00:10:10,784 ♪ 232 00:10:10,827 --> 00:10:13,308 Built atop a 150-foot cliff 233 00:10:13,351 --> 00:10:16,354 overlooking the warm waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, 234 00:10:16,398 --> 00:10:20,402 Tropea is Calabria's crown jewel. 235 00:10:20,445 --> 00:10:22,317 Over the centuries, it's been prone 236 00:10:22,360 --> 00:10:25,537 to almost constant invasions from neighboring empires 237 00:10:25,581 --> 00:10:29,280 who all wanted to possess this enchanting town. 238 00:10:29,324 --> 00:10:31,326 But I'm here to wrap my head around something 239 00:10:31,369 --> 00:10:33,154 of a botanical mystery. 240 00:10:33,197 --> 00:10:36,244 ♪ 241 00:10:36,287 --> 00:10:38,638 Tropea is renowned all across Italy 242 00:10:38,681 --> 00:10:40,770 for its singular red onions. 243 00:10:40,814 --> 00:10:42,598 They are so sweet, they can be served 244 00:10:42,642 --> 00:10:45,557 in everything from pastas to preserves, 245 00:10:45,601 --> 00:10:48,473 even in ice cream, if you're so inclined. 246 00:10:48,517 --> 00:10:49,823 I'm not. 247 00:10:49,866 --> 00:10:53,261 ♪ 248 00:10:55,524 --> 00:10:58,179 - [speaking Italian] 249 00:10:58,222 --> 00:10:59,746 - Si. 250 00:10:59,789 --> 00:11:01,878 To find out what makes these onions so special, 251 00:11:01,922 --> 00:11:04,315 I'm meeting up with Tropean restaurateur, 252 00:11:04,359 --> 00:11:06,230 Michele Pugliese. 253 00:11:12,628 --> 00:11:13,716 - Si. 254 00:11:14,804 --> 00:11:15,936 - Si. 255 00:11:20,375 --> 00:11:21,332 - Yeah. 256 00:11:23,639 --> 00:11:25,380 - Ah. 257 00:11:25,423 --> 00:11:26,686 - Yeah. Yeah. 258 00:11:28,688 --> 00:11:30,167 - Yeah. 259 00:11:30,211 --> 00:11:32,300 Despite their incredible popularity, 260 00:11:32,343 --> 00:11:35,085 the Tropea onion only grows in a small stretch 261 00:11:35,129 --> 00:11:37,174 of coastline surrounding the city. 262 00:11:37,218 --> 00:11:38,872 Just a few miles further out, 263 00:11:38,915 --> 00:11:41,439 and it loses that sweetness that makes it unique. 264 00:11:41,483 --> 00:11:43,224 [soft plucky music] 265 00:11:50,274 --> 00:11:51,449 - Yeah. 266 00:11:51,493 --> 00:11:53,408 ♪ 267 00:11:58,369 --> 00:11:59,283 - All right. 268 00:12:04,854 --> 00:12:06,377 Wow, yeah. 269 00:12:06,421 --> 00:12:07,422 That's gorgeous. 270 00:12:08,510 --> 00:12:09,467 - Dolcissimo. 271 00:12:10,773 --> 00:12:11,905 - Si. 272 00:12:20,783 --> 00:12:23,177 - Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. 273 00:12:29,009 --> 00:12:31,402 - First grown here over 3,000 years ago, 274 00:12:31,446 --> 00:12:33,753 Tropea onions were an unexpected gift 275 00:12:33,796 --> 00:12:36,451 brought by foreign conquerors from the Middle East. 276 00:12:43,806 --> 00:12:45,808 - Ah. Yeah. 277 00:12:48,724 --> 00:12:49,812 - Ah. 278 00:12:53,424 --> 00:12:54,338 - Si, si. 279 00:12:56,645 --> 00:12:57,820 - Your madre. 280 00:12:57,864 --> 00:12:59,300 - Tropiano. 281 00:13:06,960 --> 00:13:09,092 - Si. Si. 282 00:13:10,964 --> 00:13:12,095 - Si. 283 00:13:12,879 --> 00:13:13,967 - Si. 284 00:13:15,272 --> 00:13:16,839 - Okay. 285 00:13:17,840 --> 00:13:19,929 - Though today the Tropea onion is beginning 286 00:13:19,973 --> 00:13:21,583 to be produced commercially, 287 00:13:21,626 --> 00:13:23,628 there are still a few farmers left 288 00:13:23,672 --> 00:13:27,415 like Francesco and Onofrio who harvest their onions by hand 289 00:13:27,458 --> 00:13:30,331 using only traditional irrigation methods. 290 00:13:34,074 --> 00:13:35,336 - Dalle--le montagne. 291 00:13:37,381 --> 00:13:38,339 - Si. 292 00:13:43,779 --> 00:13:44,867 - Si. 293 00:13:57,010 --> 00:13:58,141 - Si. 294 00:13:59,490 --> 00:14:00,404 - Si. 295 00:14:02,015 --> 00:14:03,755 - Yeah. [laughs] 296 00:14:03,799 --> 00:14:04,887 - Yeah. 297 00:14:12,721 --> 00:14:13,635 - Si. 298 00:14:19,728 --> 00:14:20,990 - Yeah. [laughs] 299 00:14:22,035 --> 00:14:23,340 [midtempo Italian music] 300 00:14:23,384 --> 00:14:25,168 - Despite having suffered invasions 301 00:14:25,212 --> 00:14:26,691 for over 3,000 years, 302 00:14:26,735 --> 00:14:29,825 Calabrians are tenaciously hospitable. 303 00:14:29,869 --> 00:14:31,522 ♪ 304 00:14:31,566 --> 00:14:33,698 So Michele's not allowing me to leave Tropea 305 00:14:33,742 --> 00:14:35,352 before eating something at his restaurant, 306 00:14:35,396 --> 00:14:37,920 l'Osteria della Cipolla Rossa, 307 00:14:37,964 --> 00:14:39,313 the Red Onion Inn. 308 00:14:45,623 --> 00:14:46,842 - Si. 309 00:14:48,496 --> 00:14:50,541 The restaurant is run by Michele's wife, Romana, 310 00:14:50,585 --> 00:14:52,892 who is so obsessed with farm-to-table dining 311 00:14:52,935 --> 00:14:55,285 that she refuses to own a fridge. 312 00:14:56,765 --> 00:14:58,898 - Buongiorno. 313 00:14:58,941 --> 00:14:59,942 - Hi, Romana. 314 00:14:59,986 --> 00:15:01,596 - [speaking Italian] 315 00:15:11,432 --> 00:15:14,914 - The Osteria's specialty is the unapologetically simple 316 00:15:14,957 --> 00:15:16,698 red onion spaghetti. 317 00:15:16,741 --> 00:15:18,961 But don't underestimate simplicity. 318 00:15:29,624 --> 00:15:30,581 - Si. 319 00:15:37,110 --> 00:15:38,067 - Si, si. 320 00:15:38,111 --> 00:15:39,851 [overlapping chatter] 321 00:15:39,895 --> 00:15:40,940 Si. - Si, si. 322 00:15:45,727 --> 00:15:46,641 - Si. 323 00:15:54,736 --> 00:15:55,650 - Oh, si. 324 00:15:58,131 --> 00:15:59,262 - [laughs] 325 00:16:00,524 --> 00:16:01,482 - Si. 326 00:16:01,525 --> 00:16:02,831 - Oh, my gosh. 327 00:16:02,874 --> 00:16:04,224 Mm, mm, mm, mm. 328 00:16:15,844 --> 00:16:16,976 - [laughs] 329 00:16:18,716 --> 00:16:21,632 [intriguing music] 330 00:16:21,676 --> 00:16:24,244 ♪ 331 00:16:26,115 --> 00:16:27,987 That's delicious. 332 00:16:28,030 --> 00:16:31,555 There's nothing to this but onions, broth, and pasta. 333 00:16:31,599 --> 00:16:35,255 But the combination of these three simple ingredients 334 00:16:35,298 --> 00:16:37,605 become something sublime. 335 00:16:37,648 --> 00:16:39,520 It's oniony, but it's not oniony. 336 00:16:39,563 --> 00:16:40,695 I don't know how to describe it. 337 00:16:47,832 --> 00:16:48,790 - Huh? 338 00:16:48,833 --> 00:16:49,791 - No. 339 00:16:49,834 --> 00:16:51,053 No. 340 00:16:51,097 --> 00:16:52,794 - Okay. 341 00:16:52,837 --> 00:16:55,492 It's hard not to be enchanted by the beauty of Tropea 342 00:16:55,536 --> 00:16:57,277 and its unique red onions. 343 00:16:57,320 --> 00:16:59,235 But to me, the real magic of this place 344 00:16:59,279 --> 00:17:02,586 is the warmth and hospitality of its people. 345 00:17:08,766 --> 00:17:11,030 [jazzy piano music] 346 00:17:13,206 --> 00:17:15,991 [jazzy string music] 347 00:17:16,035 --> 00:17:18,211 - The Calabrians have always had to rely 348 00:17:18,254 --> 00:17:20,126 on the sea for sustenance. 349 00:17:20,169 --> 00:17:22,693 And surrounded by water on three sides, 350 00:17:22,737 --> 00:17:26,045 the catch here is as unique as it is plentiful. 351 00:17:26,088 --> 00:17:27,655 [indistinct chatter] 352 00:17:27,698 --> 00:17:29,613 Look at that. - Silver snake. 353 00:17:29,657 --> 00:17:31,093 - God, they're incredible. - Yes. 354 00:17:31,137 --> 00:17:32,660 - They look fake. - [laughs] Yeah. 355 00:17:32,703 --> 00:17:35,663 ♪ 356 00:17:35,706 --> 00:17:38,100 - I've come to a Calabrian fish auction 357 00:17:38,144 --> 00:17:40,059 to get a sense of the catch. 358 00:17:40,102 --> 00:17:41,843 - [yelling in Italian dialect] 359 00:17:48,763 --> 00:17:51,548 - But because I'm a fish out of water, 360 00:17:51,592 --> 00:17:54,943 respected restaurateur, Johnny Giordano, 361 00:17:54,986 --> 00:17:56,292 is showing me around. 362 00:17:56,336 --> 00:17:57,902 Is it octopus and-- 363 00:17:57,946 --> 00:17:59,426 - Octopus. - Everything? 364 00:17:59,469 --> 00:18:01,123 Even squid and everything? - Everything you can try here. 365 00:18:01,167 --> 00:18:04,735 Tuna, swordfish, scorfano,sharks. 366 00:18:05,693 --> 00:18:06,650 - Whoa. 367 00:18:06,694 --> 00:18:08,913 - This is a big squid, calamari. 368 00:18:08,957 --> 00:18:10,741 - [yelling in Italian dialect] 369 00:18:10,785 --> 00:18:13,440 - He doesn't want them to-- - No, he scream all the time. 370 00:18:13,483 --> 00:18:15,094 He got to fight with everybody 371 00:18:15,137 --> 00:18:18,053 because nobody gotta take the fish. 372 00:18:18,967 --> 00:18:21,709 - No sea creature is more respected or prized 373 00:18:21,752 --> 00:18:23,798 in Calabria than the swordfish. 374 00:18:23,841 --> 00:18:27,193 Catching one of these sabered sea monsters is not easy, 375 00:18:27,236 --> 00:18:28,585 but it is lucrative. 376 00:18:28,629 --> 00:18:32,937 A single fish can fetch up to $5,000. 377 00:18:32,981 --> 00:18:34,548 - [speaking Italian dialect] 378 00:18:35,810 --> 00:18:37,116 - Yesterday, 20. 379 00:18:37,159 --> 00:18:38,160 - 20? - Yes. 380 00:18:38,204 --> 00:18:39,205 - Really? - Today, only one. 381 00:18:39,248 --> 00:18:40,684 Every day is different. 382 00:18:40,728 --> 00:18:42,556 - Every day's different, yeah. - You want to buy it? 383 00:18:42,599 --> 00:18:44,210 - Uh, I don't have room in my hotel. 384 00:18:44,253 --> 00:18:46,255 [laughing] 385 00:18:46,299 --> 00:18:49,389 [exciting music] 386 00:18:49,432 --> 00:18:51,521 - Johnny's promised some fresh swordfish 387 00:18:51,565 --> 00:18:53,132 awaits me at his place. 388 00:18:53,175 --> 00:18:54,829 But before getting lunch, 389 00:18:54,872 --> 00:18:58,659 we stop off to have a look at his hometown, Scilla. 390 00:18:58,702 --> 00:19:00,574 This town dates back to a time 391 00:19:00,617 --> 00:19:03,359 when Calabria was at the heart of Magna Graecia, 392 00:19:03,403 --> 00:19:06,145 Greece's empire in Italy. 393 00:19:06,188 --> 00:19:07,798 Wow. 394 00:19:07,842 --> 00:19:08,712 That's Sicily? 395 00:19:08,756 --> 00:19:10,584 - Yes, this Sicily, Ganzirri. 396 00:19:10,627 --> 00:19:13,891 The other side of this is Scilla and Charybdis. 397 00:19:13,935 --> 00:19:16,677 - Ancient Greek legends like "The Odyssey" 398 00:19:16,720 --> 00:19:19,767 told of the perilous passage in this narrow strait, 399 00:19:19,810 --> 00:19:21,421 where sailors were forced to choose 400 00:19:21,464 --> 00:19:24,163 between a vicious sea monster called Scylla 401 00:19:24,206 --> 00:19:26,077 and a deadly whirlpool. 402 00:19:26,121 --> 00:19:27,470 - [speaking Italian] 403 00:19:30,212 --> 00:19:32,345 - Is this true or is-- - No, it's true. 404 00:19:32,388 --> 00:19:33,476 It's true. - It's not mythical? 405 00:19:35,609 --> 00:19:36,566 - Wow. 406 00:19:48,361 --> 00:19:49,840 They catch swordfish. 407 00:19:49,884 --> 00:19:51,494 [dreamy music] 408 00:19:51,538 --> 00:19:54,018 - Remarkably, a traditional form of swordfishing 409 00:19:54,062 --> 00:19:56,891 passed down from the ancient Greeks is still practiced 410 00:19:56,934 --> 00:19:59,589 here in the waters around Scilla to this day. 411 00:20:05,116 --> 00:20:06,205 - With their hands? 412 00:20:29,315 --> 00:20:30,490 - Mm-hmm. 413 00:20:35,408 --> 00:20:38,280 [soft guitar music] 414 00:20:38,324 --> 00:20:39,803 ♪ 415 00:20:39,847 --> 00:20:41,544 - We're heading to the family's restaurant, 416 00:20:41,588 --> 00:20:43,024 the Prince of Scilla. 417 00:20:43,067 --> 00:20:45,679 And I'm in for the royal treatment. 418 00:20:45,722 --> 00:20:47,594 - This one. - Nice fish. 419 00:20:49,248 --> 00:20:50,727 - Yeah, yeah, yeah. 420 00:20:50,771 --> 00:20:52,773 This swordfish was caught so recently, 421 00:20:52,816 --> 00:20:54,818 you can eat it straight off the bone. 422 00:20:58,300 --> 00:20:59,432 - Yeah. 423 00:21:02,565 --> 00:21:04,001 - Mm-hmm. - Fresh parsley. 424 00:21:06,830 --> 00:21:09,790 - Caught this fresh and sliced this fine, 425 00:21:09,833 --> 00:21:12,401 it's like prosciutto and smoked salmon 426 00:21:12,445 --> 00:21:15,230 had a love child. 427 00:21:15,274 --> 00:21:16,536 Oh, it's so good. 428 00:21:16,579 --> 00:21:18,059 Wow, it's incredible. 429 00:21:23,020 --> 00:21:26,415 - Next, Johnny wants to cook me something more traditional, 430 00:21:26,459 --> 00:21:28,330 scialatielli alla ghiotta, 431 00:21:28,374 --> 00:21:33,248 long, thin strands of pasta in a swordfish ragu of sorts. 432 00:21:33,292 --> 00:21:34,554 Mm-hmm. 433 00:21:34,597 --> 00:21:36,599 He starts things off with a sofrito 434 00:21:36,643 --> 00:21:38,906 of garlic and sweet Tropea onion. 435 00:21:41,822 --> 00:21:42,779 - Si. 436 00:21:50,352 --> 00:21:51,440 - Yeah. 437 00:21:55,792 --> 00:21:58,012 - I'd like to have a shirt made out of basil. 438 00:22:05,889 --> 00:22:06,847 - Yeah. 439 00:22:09,415 --> 00:22:10,894 - Yeah. 440 00:22:10,938 --> 00:22:11,852 - That's ready. 441 00:22:13,419 --> 00:22:14,681 - Yeah. 442 00:22:15,856 --> 00:22:17,336 - Si. Si. 443 00:22:19,381 --> 00:22:20,469 Cheers. - Thank you for coming. 444 00:22:20,513 --> 00:22:21,383 - Thank you for having me. 445 00:22:21,427 --> 00:22:22,428 - Yes. 446 00:22:22,471 --> 00:22:24,038 [overlapping chatter] 447 00:22:25,344 --> 00:22:26,780 - Mm. 448 00:22:26,823 --> 00:22:28,695 - Mm. - Is it good? 449 00:22:30,871 --> 00:22:33,569 - [laughs] 450 00:22:33,613 --> 00:22:35,179 - Delicious. - Mm. 451 00:22:35,223 --> 00:22:36,877 Yeah. 452 00:22:36,920 --> 00:22:38,095 Yep. 453 00:22:38,139 --> 00:22:39,836 You should open a restaurant. 454 00:22:39,880 --> 00:22:41,490 - [laughs] 455 00:22:41,534 --> 00:22:42,839 - That's really good. 456 00:22:42,883 --> 00:22:44,754 - And see the swordfish boats? 457 00:22:44,798 --> 00:22:45,712 - And they're up in the... - Yes. 458 00:22:45,755 --> 00:22:47,627 - Sort of crow's nest up there. 459 00:22:47,670 --> 00:22:48,758 - It's really beautiful. 460 00:22:50,934 --> 00:22:53,502 - It's curious to think of Calabrians still heading out 461 00:22:53,546 --> 00:22:54,982 into these perilous waters 462 00:22:55,025 --> 00:22:57,463 to battle against ancient sea monsters. 463 00:22:57,506 --> 00:22:59,856 But in this land of myth and legend, 464 00:22:59,900 --> 00:23:02,468 the sea is a mirror to the soul. 465 00:23:02,511 --> 00:23:05,209 [intriguing music] 466 00:23:05,253 --> 00:23:07,864 ♪ 467 00:23:10,127 --> 00:23:12,260 [jazzy piano music] 468 00:23:12,303 --> 00:23:15,219 [intriguing music] 469 00:23:15,263 --> 00:23:16,482 ♪ 470 00:23:16,525 --> 00:23:18,701 - Wow. 471 00:23:18,745 --> 00:23:21,530 Look at those mountains. 472 00:23:21,574 --> 00:23:23,793 I'm leaving Calabria's coast behind 473 00:23:23,837 --> 00:23:25,795 and heading deep into the back country 474 00:23:25,839 --> 00:23:28,581 of the Aspromonte mountains. 475 00:23:28,624 --> 00:23:30,931 Rugged and shrouded in folklore, 476 00:23:30,974 --> 00:23:35,152 few tend to venture through its impenetrable forests. 477 00:23:35,196 --> 00:23:37,285 But I'm heading to meet a chef who's opened a restaurant 478 00:23:37,328 --> 00:23:40,070 in this most remote corner of Calabria. 479 00:23:40,114 --> 00:23:44,510 ♪ 480 00:23:44,553 --> 00:23:46,773 - This river that flows in our property 481 00:23:46,816 --> 00:23:49,906 is called the Calabretto and comes directly 482 00:23:49,950 --> 00:23:52,518 from our big mountain, the Aspromonte. 483 00:23:52,561 --> 00:23:55,390 All the southern part of Calabria 484 00:23:55,434 --> 00:23:58,785 is just surrounded by Aspromonte. 485 00:23:58,828 --> 00:24:01,178 - Nino Rossi has been living and working out here 486 00:24:01,222 --> 00:24:04,704 since 2016 making food that celebrates 487 00:24:04,747 --> 00:24:07,750 the unique biodiversity of this mountain. 488 00:24:07,794 --> 00:24:09,317 And this land's been in your family 489 00:24:09,360 --> 00:24:10,971 for many generations? 490 00:24:11,014 --> 00:24:13,234 - I think we are sixth generation. 491 00:24:13,277 --> 00:24:14,409 - Did you grow up here? 492 00:24:14,453 --> 00:24:15,715 - I grew up in Rome. 493 00:24:15,758 --> 00:24:20,197 But I've never stopped being a Calabrian child. 494 00:24:20,241 --> 00:24:22,417 - Growing up in a well-to-do family 495 00:24:22,461 --> 00:24:24,550 a thousand miles away from here, 496 00:24:24,593 --> 00:24:28,118 Nino's keen interest in traditional Calabrian cooking 497 00:24:28,162 --> 00:24:31,513 came as a bit of a surprise to his friends and family. 498 00:24:31,557 --> 00:24:33,210 You didn't train as a chef? 499 00:24:33,254 --> 00:24:34,864 - I am a self-taught chef. 500 00:24:34,908 --> 00:24:37,867 But at the same time, in the past, 501 00:24:37,911 --> 00:24:40,217 I had opportunity to learn 502 00:24:40,261 --> 00:24:41,741 from an ancient housekeeper... 503 00:24:41,784 --> 00:24:42,959 - Yeah. - Called Maria. 504 00:24:43,003 --> 00:24:44,613 - Yeah. - And that way, 505 00:24:44,657 --> 00:24:47,094 I got all the cuisine from the people. 506 00:24:47,137 --> 00:24:48,312 - Yeah, of course. - Then I put all the things 507 00:24:48,356 --> 00:24:51,402 together and I start just experimenting. 508 00:24:51,446 --> 00:24:55,537 Once I would like to learn how to make pastry... 509 00:24:55,581 --> 00:24:57,234 - Yeah. - I start only make pastry. 510 00:24:57,278 --> 00:24:59,672 So if you invite myself to a dinner... 511 00:24:59,715 --> 00:25:01,325 - Yeah. - I would just show up 512 00:25:01,369 --> 00:25:03,850 with one of my cakes and say, oh, this is for you. 513 00:25:03,893 --> 00:25:05,591 - Right. You became obsessive. - Yeah, obsessive. 514 00:25:05,634 --> 00:25:07,201 - Yes. 515 00:25:07,244 --> 00:25:08,637 Over the last few years, 516 00:25:08,681 --> 00:25:10,378 Nino's obsession has driven him 517 00:25:10,421 --> 00:25:14,251 to turn this remote area into his culinary playground. 518 00:25:15,862 --> 00:25:18,255 So this is where you do your foraging? 519 00:25:18,299 --> 00:25:21,084 - Yeah. I used to walk along the river 520 00:25:21,128 --> 00:25:23,696 and then go also higher into the mountain. 521 00:25:23,739 --> 00:25:26,350 - Uh-huh. - But here you can find 522 00:25:26,394 --> 00:25:28,614 a lot of special things. 523 00:25:28,657 --> 00:25:30,267 This is the water mint. 524 00:25:30,311 --> 00:25:36,273 It's wild and has a strong citrus taste, orange taste. 525 00:25:38,058 --> 00:25:39,189 - Yeah. 526 00:25:39,233 --> 00:25:40,713 - You know that once I poisoned myself. 527 00:25:40,756 --> 00:25:42,453 - So this is safe? - No, this is safe. 528 00:25:42,497 --> 00:25:43,454 - I'm gonna make it through. 529 00:25:43,498 --> 00:25:44,586 Right? - Yeah, yeah. 530 00:25:44,630 --> 00:25:46,588 - What did you poison yourself with? 531 00:25:46,632 --> 00:25:48,155 What was it? - With the crocus. 532 00:25:48,198 --> 00:25:51,375 And I thought it was white garlic. 533 00:25:51,419 --> 00:25:53,726 And it was really-- 534 00:25:53,769 --> 00:25:55,858 - Yes, that can be very bad for you, I've heard. 535 00:25:55,902 --> 00:25:58,774 - Yeah, yeah, but I studied a lot. 536 00:25:58,818 --> 00:26:00,123 - [laughs] That's good. 537 00:26:00,167 --> 00:26:02,517 - And I pretty know everything about this place. 538 00:26:02,561 --> 00:26:04,824 - Right. - From the upper part, 539 00:26:04,867 --> 00:26:06,608 we take the silver fir. 540 00:26:06,652 --> 00:26:07,957 I show you. 541 00:26:10,960 --> 00:26:12,614 - It's just a fir tree? 542 00:26:12,658 --> 00:26:13,746 - White fir. 543 00:26:15,225 --> 00:26:16,618 - Yeah, it's nice. 544 00:26:16,662 --> 00:26:17,663 Really aromatic. 545 00:26:17,706 --> 00:26:18,968 - Yeah. 546 00:26:19,012 --> 00:26:20,448 I love it. 547 00:26:20,491 --> 00:26:21,492 - So should we go cook? 548 00:26:21,536 --> 00:26:22,668 - Yeah, I'm gonna cook for you. 549 00:26:22,711 --> 00:26:23,712 - All right. 550 00:26:23,756 --> 00:26:25,235 Nino's restaurant, Qafiz, 551 00:26:25,279 --> 00:26:27,847 is a love letter to the Aspromonte 552 00:26:27,890 --> 00:26:30,240 and the unique and undiscovered ingredients 553 00:26:30,284 --> 00:26:32,678 that can be found only here on the mountain. 554 00:26:32,721 --> 00:26:35,942 [bright music] 555 00:26:35,985 --> 00:26:38,814 Today, he's preparing me a dish that has helped cement 556 00:26:38,858 --> 00:26:42,557 his Michelin star, a dessert called Fire. 557 00:26:42,601 --> 00:26:43,732 - This is a meringue. 558 00:26:43,776 --> 00:26:46,387 - So it's just egg white and sugar and-- 559 00:26:46,430 --> 00:26:50,739 - Yeah. We put this vegetable carbon powder. 560 00:26:50,783 --> 00:26:53,524 - So this is just charcoal? - Yeah. 561 00:26:53,568 --> 00:26:54,830 - What did people think about it? 562 00:26:54,874 --> 00:26:57,267 - A lot of people thinks that putting charcoal 563 00:26:57,311 --> 00:27:00,140 in the meringue, it was something a little bit crazy. 564 00:27:02,316 --> 00:27:07,103 - In 2021, over 60 wildfires ravaged Calabria, 565 00:27:07,147 --> 00:27:09,540 leaving a trail of death and devastation 566 00:27:09,584 --> 00:27:11,020 in Nino's beloved mountains. 567 00:27:12,761 --> 00:27:15,590 - Foraging was completely different after the fire. 568 00:27:15,634 --> 00:27:18,637 Because you can see a lot of mountainsides 569 00:27:18,680 --> 00:27:19,986 completely black. 570 00:27:20,029 --> 00:27:21,727 But at the same time, walking around, 571 00:27:21,770 --> 00:27:23,685 you can see all this strong nature 572 00:27:23,729 --> 00:27:25,992 and colors going through the ground... 573 00:27:26,035 --> 00:27:28,734 - Right. - And just go up 574 00:27:28,777 --> 00:27:31,127 and show its greatness. - Yeah. 575 00:27:31,171 --> 00:27:33,652 - Then I came back home and say, okay, 576 00:27:33,695 --> 00:27:36,655 I have to tribute the mountain. 577 00:27:38,178 --> 00:27:40,571 - Nino's obsessive baking has paid off 578 00:27:40,615 --> 00:27:42,791 in this tribute to the mountain. 579 00:27:42,835 --> 00:27:44,488 It looks like glass. 580 00:27:44,532 --> 00:27:45,968 After three hours in the oven, 581 00:27:46,012 --> 00:27:48,188 the notoriously temperamental meringue 582 00:27:48,231 --> 00:27:51,191 is perfectly light and crisp. 583 00:27:51,234 --> 00:27:53,410 - Here we have silver fir balls. 584 00:27:53,454 --> 00:27:57,327 These are silver fir extract, water, and lemon. 585 00:27:57,371 --> 00:28:00,417 We make a base like this. 586 00:28:00,461 --> 00:28:01,984 And then we bring the apple. 587 00:28:02,028 --> 00:28:03,812 - So the apples come from the mountains, too? 588 00:28:03,856 --> 00:28:05,466 - Yeah, it comes from Aspromonte. 589 00:28:05,509 --> 00:28:07,686 I put the white chocolate foam. 590 00:28:07,729 --> 00:28:09,209 [lively music] 591 00:28:09,252 --> 00:28:11,994 I put back the white fir. - Mm-hmm. 592 00:28:12,038 --> 00:28:17,347 - We had to call this dessert New Life After the Fire. 593 00:28:17,391 --> 00:28:20,960 Because what we are building now is a new life, 594 00:28:21,003 --> 00:28:23,745 giving the second opportunity to the mountain. 595 00:28:23,789 --> 00:28:25,747 ♪ 596 00:28:25,791 --> 00:28:28,445 And this is like the last minutes of a fire. 597 00:28:28,489 --> 00:28:29,838 - Yes, absolutely. 598 00:28:29,882 --> 00:28:31,710 - So you have to taste it. - I will. 599 00:28:31,753 --> 00:28:32,841 Thank you. 600 00:28:39,152 --> 00:28:40,936 Oh, wow. 601 00:28:40,980 --> 00:28:42,851 There's, like, a million different flavors in there. 602 00:28:42,895 --> 00:28:44,766 - [laughs] Yeah. - That's amazing. 603 00:28:44,810 --> 00:28:46,986 - Citric and balsamic. 604 00:28:47,029 --> 00:28:48,944 - Yeah. - And I love it. 605 00:28:48,988 --> 00:28:50,467 - Oh, that's amazing. 606 00:28:50,511 --> 00:28:52,078 And it just keeps, like-- 607 00:28:52,121 --> 00:28:53,557 - And with the apple-- 608 00:28:53,601 --> 00:28:56,517 - Yeah, yeah, absolutely. 609 00:28:56,560 --> 00:28:57,910 That's just so good. 610 00:29:00,869 --> 00:29:03,002 Just that's great. 611 00:29:03,045 --> 00:29:06,266 Wow. Thank you. 612 00:29:06,309 --> 00:29:09,138 It's not fancy tricks nor strange ingredients 613 00:29:09,182 --> 00:29:11,401 that make Nino's food extraordinary. 614 00:29:11,445 --> 00:29:13,403 It's that he's managed to perfectly capture 615 00:29:13,447 --> 00:29:17,451 the alchemy and enduring beauty of this place. 616 00:29:17,494 --> 00:29:21,237 ♪ 617 00:29:23,500 --> 00:29:26,416 [jazzy piano music] 618 00:29:26,460 --> 00:29:30,246 [dog barking] 619 00:29:30,290 --> 00:29:32,248 - I've come to the northernmost point 620 00:29:32,292 --> 00:29:34,250 of Calabria's Aspromonte, 621 00:29:34,294 --> 00:29:36,949 to the mountain hamlet of Martone. 622 00:29:36,992 --> 00:29:40,256 [intriguing music] 623 00:29:40,300 --> 00:29:42,519 It's a town that's ailing from an issue 624 00:29:42,563 --> 00:29:45,305 that's rampant throughout the region. 625 00:29:50,527 --> 00:29:53,356 - [speaking Italian] 626 00:30:02,670 --> 00:30:05,281 - Blighted by social and economic hardship, 627 00:30:05,325 --> 00:30:08,154 there are over 200 mountain towns in Calabria 628 00:30:08,197 --> 00:30:10,852 that are at risk of being abandoned. 629 00:30:17,598 --> 00:30:20,644 ♪ 630 00:30:20,688 --> 00:30:22,864 - But not everyone is packing up their bags. 631 00:30:22,908 --> 00:30:26,563 Annalisa Fiorenza is a farmer and local activist 632 00:30:26,607 --> 00:30:29,436 who is using organic agriculture as a means 633 00:30:29,479 --> 00:30:32,918 to create opportunities in her community. 634 00:30:37,400 --> 00:30:38,358 - Yeah. 635 00:30:43,493 --> 00:30:44,668 - Yeah, yeah, yeah. 636 00:30:44,712 --> 00:30:46,932 [laughter] Yeah, yeah. Yeah. 637 00:30:52,024 --> 00:30:53,199 - Si. 638 00:31:00,380 --> 00:31:01,337 - Si. 639 00:31:05,211 --> 00:31:07,039 - But Annalisa has had to contend 640 00:31:07,082 --> 00:31:10,216 with some deep-rooted issues that come with the territory. 641 00:31:10,259 --> 00:31:12,566 These mountains are a stronghold 642 00:31:12,609 --> 00:31:16,265 of the 'Ndrangheta, the notorious Calabrian mafia. 643 00:31:17,876 --> 00:31:21,357 Formed in the 1800s, this brutal criminal syndicate 644 00:31:21,401 --> 00:31:23,272 took root in the most impoverished 645 00:31:23,316 --> 00:31:25,535 and rural parts of the region. 646 00:31:25,579 --> 00:31:28,887 Today, they're one of the most powerful criminal networks 647 00:31:28,930 --> 00:31:31,367 in the world 648 00:31:31,411 --> 00:31:35,676 with an estimated $60 billion annual turnover. 649 00:31:49,864 --> 00:31:50,952 - Mm. 650 00:32:13,409 --> 00:32:14,323 - Yeah. 651 00:32:18,849 --> 00:32:21,635 - The only way Annalisa has been able to survive 652 00:32:21,678 --> 00:32:24,812 is by joining forces with a cooperative of local farmers 653 00:32:24,855 --> 00:32:27,423 called GOEL Bio, 654 00:32:27,467 --> 00:32:31,297 which helped her rebuild after she was attacked. 655 00:32:31,340 --> 00:32:32,907 Today, a few members are meeting up 656 00:32:32,951 --> 00:32:35,518 for their monthly lunch at a local restaurant, 657 00:32:35,562 --> 00:32:39,218 La Collinetta, and Annalisa and I are joining. 658 00:32:45,789 --> 00:32:48,227 - The restaurant is run by fellow farmer and chef, 659 00:32:48,270 --> 00:32:49,880 Pino Trimboli, 660 00:32:49,924 --> 00:32:53,493 who is preparing us a feast of Calabrian dishes. 661 00:32:53,536 --> 00:32:57,062 Pino decided to join the cooperative in 2019 662 00:32:57,105 --> 00:33:00,282 as a means to promote his incredible organic produce 663 00:33:00,326 --> 00:33:02,067 outside of his restaurant. 664 00:33:02,110 --> 00:33:05,200 - [speaking Italian] 665 00:33:15,384 --> 00:33:17,647 - This is time-honored cooking. 666 00:33:17,691 --> 00:33:21,173 And by time honored, I mean, like, the Stone Age. 667 00:33:21,216 --> 00:33:23,697 Cooking in clay perfectly seals in 668 00:33:23,740 --> 00:33:25,133 the flavors of the meat. 669 00:33:25,177 --> 00:33:26,743 But there's a trade-off. 670 00:33:26,787 --> 00:33:29,050 It takes over four hours per dish. 671 00:33:29,094 --> 00:33:30,486 Oh! 672 00:33:35,709 --> 00:33:38,668 - Oh, nice. Nice. 673 00:33:38,712 --> 00:33:40,583 Pino's down-to-earth cooking would have been 674 00:33:40,627 --> 00:33:43,369 a surefire success anywhere in Italy. 675 00:33:43,412 --> 00:33:44,935 But running a thriving business 676 00:33:44,979 --> 00:33:48,374 in this part of Calabria often comes at a price. 677 00:33:55,163 --> 00:33:56,295 - Si. 678 00:34:09,786 --> 00:34:12,137 - Ah, si, si, si, si, si. 679 00:34:12,180 --> 00:34:13,312 - [speaking Italian] 680 00:34:17,142 --> 00:34:18,230 - Si. 681 00:34:28,066 --> 00:34:29,154 - Mm. 682 00:34:33,506 --> 00:34:34,420 - Si. 683 00:34:47,476 --> 00:34:48,434 - Yeah. 684 00:34:49,174 --> 00:34:51,001 - Yeah. 685 00:34:51,045 --> 00:34:54,614 Whenever somebody like Pino is threatened or attacked, 686 00:34:54,657 --> 00:34:57,399 the cooperative gather around the victim to protect them, 687 00:34:57,443 --> 00:34:59,749 even funding rebuilding efforts. 688 00:35:00,794 --> 00:35:01,882 - Wow. 689 00:35:01,925 --> 00:35:02,839 - Oh, my. 690 00:35:05,668 --> 00:35:06,800 - Yes. 691 00:35:06,843 --> 00:35:08,149 - Oh, yeah, put it down. 692 00:35:08,193 --> 00:35:10,586 [intriguing music] 693 00:35:10,630 --> 00:35:13,459 - It's a bold approach, but one that's working. 694 00:35:13,502 --> 00:35:15,374 The cooperative hasn't suffered an attack 695 00:35:15,417 --> 00:35:17,506 in five years. 696 00:35:17,550 --> 00:35:19,160 And that's something worth celebrating. 697 00:35:19,204 --> 00:35:20,770 Wow. 698 00:35:20,814 --> 00:35:21,771 The bones. 699 00:35:31,651 --> 00:35:33,653 - [laughs] 700 00:35:35,045 --> 00:35:36,656 - Come on. 701 00:35:37,874 --> 00:35:39,963 This battle is by no means won. 702 00:35:40,007 --> 00:35:43,053 But Pino and Annalisa's stories are a reminder 703 00:35:43,097 --> 00:35:46,448 that food can be a powerful tool for social change. 704 00:35:46,492 --> 00:35:47,928 It just falls apart. 705 00:35:47,971 --> 00:35:48,885 - Si. 706 00:35:50,235 --> 00:35:51,497 - It's delicious. 707 00:35:51,540 --> 00:35:53,412 And there's reason to be hopeful, 708 00:35:53,455 --> 00:35:54,761 because, as Pino says, 709 00:35:54,804 --> 00:35:57,198 Calabria is made up of good people. 710 00:35:57,242 --> 00:35:58,504 To Pino. 711 00:35:58,547 --> 00:35:59,809 - A Pino. - Pino. 712 00:35:59,853 --> 00:36:00,854 - To all of you. 713 00:36:04,771 --> 00:36:07,687 [birds chirping] 714 00:36:12,909 --> 00:36:15,173 [jazzy piano music] 715 00:36:16,522 --> 00:36:18,698 - I remember this very distinctly. 716 00:36:18,741 --> 00:36:20,830 But I don't remember it being as verdant as this. 717 00:36:20,874 --> 00:36:23,920 Obviously, it was 48 years ago, so the trees were smaller. 718 00:36:23,964 --> 00:36:25,313 - Oh, yeah. - [laughs] 719 00:36:25,357 --> 00:36:26,967 But, uh-- - But you must have come 720 00:36:27,010 --> 00:36:28,795 with neighborhood children. - Yeah, I guess. 721 00:36:28,838 --> 00:36:31,058 My time in Calabria is coming to a close. 722 00:36:31,101 --> 00:36:34,583 So my parents are joining me for one last trip. 723 00:36:34,627 --> 00:36:37,412 We've come to visit my maternal grandparents' home, 724 00:36:37,456 --> 00:36:39,066 Cittanova. 725 00:36:39,109 --> 00:36:42,025 - And I never saw this all the times we've been here. 726 00:36:42,069 --> 00:36:43,331 - No, I don't remember this. 727 00:36:43,375 --> 00:36:45,725 [bell ringing] - Oh, time's up. 728 00:36:45,768 --> 00:36:47,030 - Time's up. 729 00:36:48,728 --> 00:36:50,904 - My grandfather, Vincenzo, was a battlefield medic 730 00:36:50,947 --> 00:36:53,950 in World War I who emigrated to Westchester, New York, 731 00:36:53,994 --> 00:36:56,692 where he met and married a girl from his hometown, 732 00:36:56,736 --> 00:36:59,173 my grandmother, Concetta. 733 00:36:59,217 --> 00:37:01,697 - That's an awful lot of people from a small city. 734 00:37:01,741 --> 00:37:06,093 - "Italia, caduti in guerra." 735 00:37:06,136 --> 00:37:07,747 Those who fell in the war. 736 00:37:07,790 --> 00:37:11,359 This is our family, Tropeano-- Tropeano, Tropeano. 737 00:37:11,403 --> 00:37:13,274 - I'm so happy we saw this. 738 00:37:13,318 --> 00:37:16,059 Never even known it was here. 739 00:37:16,103 --> 00:37:19,106 - But there's another reason why we've come to Cittanova. 740 00:37:19,149 --> 00:37:21,891 The last time we were here was on our first family trip 741 00:37:21,935 --> 00:37:24,894 to Calabria in 1973. 742 00:37:24,938 --> 00:37:27,680 We stayed then with my grandfather's family 743 00:37:27,723 --> 00:37:29,812 and made a promise to return. 744 00:37:29,856 --> 00:37:31,292 - [speaking Italian] 745 00:37:31,336 --> 00:37:34,469 - [speaking Italian] 746 00:37:35,383 --> 00:37:38,081 [cheering] 747 00:37:38,125 --> 00:37:40,867 [indistinct chatter] 748 00:37:40,910 --> 00:37:42,912 - Today we're keeping that promise 749 00:37:42,956 --> 00:37:46,220 and finally getting to have an intimate family reunion-- 750 00:37:46,264 --> 00:37:50,006 or as intimate as you can get with a family of this size. 751 00:37:50,050 --> 00:37:51,747 - [speaking Italian] 752 00:37:51,791 --> 00:37:52,705 - Si. 753 00:37:55,838 --> 00:37:57,013 - I know, I know. 754 00:37:57,057 --> 00:37:58,058 It's a lot of people. 755 00:37:59,320 --> 00:38:00,669 - Hey. - Si, si. 756 00:38:00,713 --> 00:38:01,931 [laughter] 757 00:38:03,237 --> 00:38:04,282 - Let's go. Let's go. 758 00:38:04,325 --> 00:38:05,674 [playful music] 759 00:38:05,718 --> 00:38:07,981 In typical Calabrian fashion, 760 00:38:08,024 --> 00:38:10,766 my relatives have been up day and night for half a week 761 00:38:10,810 --> 00:38:13,813 preparing a feast of some of our favorite dishes. 762 00:38:15,641 --> 00:38:18,644 Like this, stockfish Cittanova style. 763 00:38:20,210 --> 00:38:22,343 This is a Tropeano family dish 764 00:38:22,387 --> 00:38:25,172 that is very similar to the baccala and tomato sauce 765 00:38:25,215 --> 00:38:26,521 that I grew up with. 766 00:38:30,830 --> 00:38:31,744 - Si? 767 00:38:36,270 --> 00:38:37,358 - Ah. 768 00:38:38,577 --> 00:38:40,405 My mother would make this with, um... 769 00:38:41,406 --> 00:38:42,494 - Si. 770 00:38:45,018 --> 00:38:45,932 - Yeah. 771 00:38:50,589 --> 00:38:51,981 Wow. - Wow? Si. 772 00:38:54,332 --> 00:38:56,986 - It's so good. Si, si. 773 00:38:57,030 --> 00:39:00,120 But no family feast, at least in our household, 774 00:39:00,163 --> 00:39:04,037 is complete until you have these, zeppole. 775 00:39:08,389 --> 00:39:10,391 - [speaking Italian] 776 00:39:10,435 --> 00:39:12,175 [laughter] 777 00:39:12,219 --> 00:39:14,700 - [speaking Italian] 778 00:39:16,876 --> 00:39:17,833 - Si. 779 00:39:22,708 --> 00:39:25,580 - These delicious deep fried beignet-like things, 780 00:39:25,624 --> 00:39:27,843 often smothered in confectionary sugar, 781 00:39:27,887 --> 00:39:31,586 are a staple at Italian American festivities. 782 00:39:31,630 --> 00:39:33,066 But here in Calabria, 783 00:39:33,109 --> 00:39:36,374 zeppole are made savory instead of sweet. 784 00:39:38,506 --> 00:39:40,073 [overlapping chatter] 785 00:39:40,116 --> 00:39:41,117 - What you think, Stan? 786 00:39:41,161 --> 00:39:42,336 - They're good. - They're good. 787 00:39:42,380 --> 00:39:44,643 - Mm. 788 00:39:44,686 --> 00:39:46,993 It's a meal, though. - Are they as good as mine? 789 00:39:47,036 --> 00:39:48,081 [laughter] 790 00:39:48,124 --> 00:39:49,648 - I'm not answering that question. 791 00:39:49,691 --> 00:39:51,432 Delicious. - Terribile. 792 00:39:51,476 --> 00:39:54,609 - But another dish, a simple nameless preparation 793 00:39:54,653 --> 00:39:57,612 of roasted goat, reminds me of that trip here 794 00:39:57,656 --> 00:40:00,093 almost 50 years ago. 795 00:40:08,710 --> 00:40:09,798 - Oh, si, si. 796 00:40:10,973 --> 00:40:11,931 - Si. 797 00:40:13,411 --> 00:40:14,412 - [speaking Italian] - Si. 798 00:40:17,110 --> 00:40:18,154 - Si. 799 00:40:19,286 --> 00:40:20,679 - Si. 800 00:40:21,288 --> 00:40:23,899 I don't know, it had a great influence on me, 801 00:40:23,943 --> 00:40:26,119 just driving up, getting it, putting it into the back 802 00:40:26,162 --> 00:40:28,643 of the car, into the trunk of the car. 803 00:40:28,687 --> 00:40:30,993 I mean, it was dead. But it was so good. 804 00:40:31,037 --> 00:40:33,169 It was probably prepared like that. 805 00:40:33,213 --> 00:40:34,170 - Yep. - Right? 806 00:40:34,214 --> 00:40:35,911 Beautiful. 807 00:40:35,955 --> 00:40:37,783 For our family, there's always been 808 00:40:37,826 --> 00:40:41,134 a strange and magical bond with food 809 00:40:41,177 --> 00:40:43,702 that drives so much of what we do. 810 00:40:54,408 --> 00:40:57,280 [cheering] 811 00:40:57,977 --> 00:41:01,154 - I believe that the food we enjoy together 812 00:41:01,197 --> 00:41:03,765 strengthens the bonds we will share forever. 813 00:41:13,558 --> 00:41:16,517 [laughter] 814 00:41:22,610 --> 00:41:25,526 [overlapping chatter] 815 00:41:27,702 --> 00:41:29,008 - Buon appetito. 816 00:41:30,662 --> 00:41:31,750 - I'll take some potatoes. 817 00:41:31,793 --> 00:41:33,142 - Oh, I love that. 818 00:41:33,186 --> 00:41:34,317 - Grazie. 819 00:41:34,361 --> 00:41:36,537 - Salute e cin cin. - Cin cin. 820 00:41:36,581 --> 00:41:40,976 The region my family left behind all those years ago 821 00:41:41,020 --> 00:41:42,630 is still as troubled as it is beautiful. 822 00:41:42,674 --> 00:41:43,892 Oh, my God. 823 00:41:43,936 --> 00:41:46,155 But the true magic of this land 824 00:41:46,199 --> 00:41:49,376 is how it inspires people here to do things 825 00:41:49,419 --> 00:41:51,596 that are equally as beautiful 826 00:41:51,639 --> 00:41:52,814 and how everywhere you go... 827 00:41:52,858 --> 00:41:54,294 Mm, mm, mm. [laughter] 828 00:41:54,337 --> 00:41:57,732 you will be treated like family. 829 00:41:57,776 --> 00:41:58,690 A tutto noi. 830 00:41:58,733 --> 00:42:05,871 ♪