1 00:00:08,095 --> 00:00:11,054 [calm music] 2 00:00:11,098 --> 00:00:12,142 ♪ 3 00:00:12,186 --> 00:00:13,796 - Ah. 4 00:00:13,839 --> 00:00:15,276 Oh, grazie. 5 00:00:15,319 --> 00:00:16,625 - [speaking Italian] 6 00:00:23,762 --> 00:00:25,634 - [laughs] 7 00:00:27,940 --> 00:00:28,898 - Grazie. 8 00:00:28,941 --> 00:00:34,643 ♪ 9 00:00:34,686 --> 00:00:37,211 That's really good. Ossobuco. 10 00:00:37,254 --> 00:00:39,300 ♪ 11 00:00:39,343 --> 00:00:43,217 This is one of my favorite places in the world. 12 00:00:43,260 --> 00:00:44,870 But you'll never guess where it is. 13 00:00:44,914 --> 00:00:46,220 [speaks Italian] 14 00:00:46,263 --> 00:00:47,308 - [speaks Italian] 15 00:00:47,351 --> 00:00:48,439 - Okay, I'll give you a hint. 16 00:00:48,483 --> 00:00:49,571 Grazie. 17 00:00:49,614 --> 00:00:51,051 There are more Italians here 18 00:00:51,094 --> 00:00:53,618 than in Bologna or Pisa. 19 00:00:53,662 --> 00:00:57,013 The Ancient Romans saw it as their last frontier. 20 00:00:57,057 --> 00:00:58,580 - [speaking Italian] 21 00:00:58,623 --> 00:00:59,798 - No, it's not. It's Trajan. 22 00:01:02,149 --> 00:01:06,414 - It's a place built on tradition and innovation. 23 00:01:06,457 --> 00:01:10,983 And whatever you've heard, the food here is incredible. 24 00:01:11,027 --> 00:01:13,377 Wow, this is so good. 25 00:01:13,421 --> 00:01:14,987 I don't even wanna talk anymore. 26 00:01:15,031 --> 00:01:17,555 I just wanna eat it. 27 00:01:17,599 --> 00:01:20,167 Welcome to London. 28 00:01:20,210 --> 00:01:24,519 ♪ 29 00:01:24,562 --> 00:01:25,998 I'm Stanley Tucci. 30 00:01:26,042 --> 00:01:27,870 I'm Italian on both sides, 31 00:01:27,913 --> 00:01:30,307 and I've been traveling across Italy to discover 32 00:01:30,351 --> 00:01:33,615 how the food in each of this country's 20 regions 33 00:01:33,658 --> 00:01:37,488 is as unique as the people and their past. 34 00:01:37,532 --> 00:01:39,273 By population alone, 35 00:01:39,316 --> 00:01:41,623 London could be Italy's 21st region. 36 00:01:53,069 --> 00:01:54,810 - My friend, Andrea Riva, 37 00:01:54,853 --> 00:01:56,638 is one of half a million Italians 38 00:01:56,681 --> 00:01:59,510 who have chosen to make London their home. 39 00:01:59,554 --> 00:02:00,990 [speaking Italian] 40 00:02:01,033 --> 00:02:02,905 - [speaking Italian] 41 00:02:03,949 --> 00:02:07,170 So why is it, here, that for 150 years, 42 00:02:07,214 --> 00:02:09,390 Italians have found the freedom... 43 00:02:09,433 --> 00:02:12,262 This is completely different than what I saw in Italy. 44 00:02:12,306 --> 00:02:14,786 To create something wonderful. 45 00:02:14,830 --> 00:02:16,919 Do you see how I gave myself the bigger piece? 46 00:02:16,962 --> 00:02:18,660 Mmm, mmm. Oh, my God. 47 00:02:18,703 --> 00:02:20,357 It's so sweet. I love that. 48 00:02:20,401 --> 00:02:22,533 Come on. This is incredible. 49 00:02:22,577 --> 00:02:25,493 [lively jazz music] 50 00:02:25,536 --> 00:02:31,890 ♪ 51 00:02:31,934 --> 00:02:33,414 [car honks] 52 00:02:33,457 --> 00:02:36,678 London's been my home for about a decade now. 53 00:02:36,721 --> 00:02:38,680 In my mind, no city in the world 54 00:02:38,723 --> 00:02:42,074 can rival its elegance and charm. 55 00:02:42,118 --> 00:02:43,728 It's a magnetic metropolis 56 00:02:43,772 --> 00:02:45,730 twice the size of New York City. 57 00:02:45,774 --> 00:02:47,689 ♪ 58 00:02:47,732 --> 00:02:51,693 And today, I'm taking you to one of my favorite spots. 59 00:02:51,736 --> 00:02:56,132 So here I am striding along Savile Row, 60 00:02:56,176 --> 00:02:59,527 where some of the best tailors in London are-- 61 00:02:59,570 --> 00:03:02,617 in the world are. 62 00:03:02,660 --> 00:03:05,272 Sadly, I have no time for a fitting. 63 00:03:05,315 --> 00:03:07,665 I've got a lunch date at the only restaurant on the block, 64 00:03:07,709 --> 00:03:10,059 the aptly named Sartoria. 65 00:03:10,102 --> 00:03:11,626 That's Italian for "tailor shop." 66 00:03:11,669 --> 00:03:15,412 ♪ 67 00:03:15,456 --> 00:03:17,022 Ciao. - Oh, Stanley. 68 00:03:17,066 --> 00:03:18,067 - Hi. - How you doing? 69 00:03:18,110 --> 00:03:19,721 - How you doin'? 70 00:03:19,764 --> 00:03:21,244 - Nice to see you. - I'm so happy to see you. 71 00:03:21,288 --> 00:03:22,289 - And you, and you. - You all right? 72 00:03:22,332 --> 00:03:23,855 - Yeah, I'm good. Good. Busy. 73 00:03:23,899 --> 00:03:24,769 - Good. - I'm excited to have you 74 00:03:24,813 --> 00:03:25,988 in my kitchen. 75 00:03:26,031 --> 00:03:27,381 - Francesco Mazzei and I 76 00:03:27,424 --> 00:03:29,426 have known each other for a long time. 77 00:03:29,470 --> 00:03:31,167 I love his food so much 78 00:03:31,211 --> 00:03:33,169 that Felicity and I asked him to cater our wedding. 79 00:03:33,213 --> 00:03:37,478 ♪ 80 00:03:37,521 --> 00:03:39,262 - Yeah, yeah, yeah, I don't know why. 81 00:03:39,306 --> 00:03:41,133 - You're a lucky man. - I know, I know. 82 00:03:42,309 --> 00:03:43,962 I've managed to sneak in 83 00:03:44,006 --> 00:03:46,226 before the lunch crowd arrives, and it turns out 84 00:03:46,269 --> 00:03:48,967 Francesco's cooking a dish I've never tried before. 85 00:03:49,011 --> 00:03:49,881 So what are you gonna make? 86 00:03:53,407 --> 00:03:54,495 - Whoa. My God, 87 00:03:54,538 --> 00:03:55,409 look at the size of that. 88 00:03:58,412 --> 00:03:59,326 - Right. 89 00:04:01,589 --> 00:04:02,459 - That's beautiful. 90 00:04:05,941 --> 00:04:09,292 - Francesco moved to London in the 1990s from Calabria, 91 00:04:09,336 --> 00:04:11,294 one of Italy's poorest regions. 92 00:04:11,338 --> 00:04:13,209 ♪ 93 00:04:13,253 --> 00:04:15,951 Today, he heads a busy kitchen with a staff of 50. 94 00:04:15,994 --> 00:04:18,693 ♪ 95 00:04:18,736 --> 00:04:21,043 This one? Jesus, really? 96 00:04:21,086 --> 00:04:23,219 ♪ 97 00:04:23,263 --> 00:04:27,528 Spicy and unctuous, 'nduja is a Calabrian sausage 98 00:04:27,571 --> 00:04:30,313 that you typically find scraped on a bit of old bread, 99 00:04:30,357 --> 00:04:32,315 not a scallop. 100 00:04:32,359 --> 00:04:33,621 - Okay, look. - Wow. 101 00:04:33,664 --> 00:04:35,275 I have children smaller than that. 102 00:04:35,318 --> 00:04:38,103 - [laughs] - Jesus. 103 00:04:38,147 --> 00:04:39,844 Oh, that's beautiful. - Check this out. 104 00:04:39,888 --> 00:04:43,718 - Yeah, that is really, really--whoa. 105 00:04:43,761 --> 00:04:45,415 Look at the color. 106 00:04:45,459 --> 00:04:47,461 That's a lot of paprika. - Beautiful. 107 00:04:47,504 --> 00:04:49,376 - That's like a mad Hungarian got in there. 108 00:04:49,419 --> 00:04:50,681 - [laughs] 109 00:04:59,386 --> 00:05:00,343 - Okay. 110 00:05:03,520 --> 00:05:05,609 - Right. 111 00:05:05,653 --> 00:05:06,784 - Yes, wow. - What we're gonna do-- 112 00:05:06,828 --> 00:05:08,264 the mashed potato here... - Yeah? 113 00:05:08,308 --> 00:05:11,311 ♪ 114 00:05:11,354 --> 00:05:13,443 - Scallops. - Oh, my God. 115 00:05:13,487 --> 00:05:15,358 - Just gonna go to the grill. 116 00:05:15,402 --> 00:05:17,360 - Two minutes on the grill, 117 00:05:17,404 --> 00:05:19,928 and then it's time for some pyrotechnics. 118 00:05:19,971 --> 00:05:20,885 - This is dangerous, yeah? 119 00:05:20,929 --> 00:05:25,020 ♪ 120 00:05:25,063 --> 00:05:27,196 - Ah, that's nice. 121 00:05:27,239 --> 00:05:28,371 - So now... 122 00:05:31,548 --> 00:05:33,942 - Yes. 123 00:05:33,985 --> 00:05:36,336 - And we add the two main ingredients. 124 00:05:36,379 --> 00:05:37,989 This is the 'nduja. 125 00:05:38,033 --> 00:05:39,643 - It's like a candy, practically. 126 00:05:39,687 --> 00:05:41,471 - Yeah, it's quite unusual. 127 00:05:41,515 --> 00:05:43,081 - Whoa. - Kay. 128 00:05:43,125 --> 00:05:44,344 - Whoa. 129 00:05:44,387 --> 00:05:45,954 - Now, salsa verde. 130 00:05:45,997 --> 00:05:49,174 Bread soaked in vinegar, anchovies, parsley, capers, 131 00:05:49,218 --> 00:05:50,654 egg whites, and garlic. - Come on. 132 00:05:50,698 --> 00:05:52,526 - Calabrian extra virgin olive oil. 133 00:05:52,569 --> 00:05:54,354 - Oh, my. 134 00:05:54,397 --> 00:05:56,356 - This Juniper branch, you see it? 135 00:05:56,399 --> 00:05:57,835 It's to give a bit of decoration to the dish. 136 00:05:57,879 --> 00:05:59,054 - Right. 137 00:05:59,097 --> 00:06:01,273 - Scallops here. - That's beautiful. 138 00:06:01,317 --> 00:06:03,058 You were the one who really sort of introduced this-- 139 00:06:11,458 --> 00:06:13,764 - Mmm. 140 00:06:13,808 --> 00:06:15,897 That's delicious. - Good. 141 00:06:15,940 --> 00:06:18,290 - It's got so much going on. Mmm. 142 00:06:18,334 --> 00:06:20,423 I could hang around with Francesco all day. 143 00:06:20,467 --> 00:06:21,511 - It looks like you're enjoying it. 144 00:06:21,555 --> 00:06:23,165 - Yeah, I'm loving it. - Thank you. 145 00:06:23,208 --> 00:06:26,124 - But I've got a lunch date upstairs. 146 00:06:26,168 --> 00:06:28,431 John. How are ya? 147 00:06:28,475 --> 00:06:30,520 - So nice to meet you. - So nice to meet you too. 148 00:06:30,564 --> 00:06:32,087 Are you hungry? - Very. 149 00:06:32,130 --> 00:06:33,828 - Good. 150 00:06:33,871 --> 00:06:36,308 I'm being joined by John Dickie, 151 00:06:36,352 --> 00:06:37,658 an historian who's about 152 00:06:37,701 --> 00:06:39,573 as obsessed with Italian food as I am. 153 00:06:39,616 --> 00:06:42,445 ♪ 154 00:06:42,489 --> 00:06:45,317 - A bit of 'nduja. 155 00:06:45,361 --> 00:06:49,713 Nobody in their right minds, a generation or two ago, 156 00:06:49,757 --> 00:06:52,803 would've thought of Calabria as somewhere that, you know, 157 00:06:52,847 --> 00:06:55,589 had a cuisine to offer the world. 158 00:06:55,632 --> 00:06:57,460 But we're looking in the wrong place 159 00:06:57,504 --> 00:06:59,810 if we think that somehow it was peasants 160 00:06:59,854 --> 00:07:01,682 who magically... - Yes, you're naturally-- 161 00:07:01,725 --> 00:07:05,512 - Transplanted this food onto our tables, you know. 162 00:07:05,555 --> 00:07:09,646 The real motors of Italian cuisine are cities-- 163 00:07:09,690 --> 00:07:13,215 Parma ham, Bistecca alla Fiorentina, 164 00:07:13,258 --> 00:07:15,739 your pizza Napolitana, and so on and so forth. 165 00:07:15,783 --> 00:07:17,524 - So why has London become 166 00:07:17,567 --> 00:07:20,396 such a fertile place for Italian food? 167 00:07:20,440 --> 00:07:23,225 - Italy is a country where, 168 00:07:23,268 --> 00:07:26,489 for bright, talented, young people, all too often, 169 00:07:26,533 --> 00:07:28,622 it's who you know and not what you know. 170 00:07:28,665 --> 00:07:31,886 Whereas London, it's more competitive. 171 00:07:31,929 --> 00:07:34,192 But as they say in Italian... 172 00:07:34,236 --> 00:07:36,456 [speaks Italian] 173 00:07:36,499 --> 00:07:39,110 Nobody looks at who you are. They look at what you can do. 174 00:07:39,154 --> 00:07:40,721 - Right. 175 00:07:40,764 --> 00:07:42,200 It's here in London 176 00:07:42,244 --> 00:07:44,072 that Francesco has found the freedom 177 00:07:44,115 --> 00:07:47,684 to take an entirely new approach to Calabrian cuisine. 178 00:07:47,728 --> 00:07:49,773 [gasps] What do we got? 179 00:07:49,817 --> 00:07:51,340 - Talk us through. - This is our black cod 180 00:07:51,383 --> 00:07:52,863 with licorice, red onion jam, 181 00:07:52,907 --> 00:07:56,519 carbonero, olive oil mash, and crispy potatoes. 182 00:07:56,563 --> 00:07:58,434 - Look at that. - Mmm. 183 00:07:58,478 --> 00:08:05,397 ♪ 184 00:08:06,964 --> 00:08:07,965 - It's incredible. 185 00:08:08,009 --> 00:08:09,619 This is absolutely delicious. 186 00:08:09,663 --> 00:08:11,229 - Oh, thank you. 187 00:08:11,273 --> 00:08:13,144 - What looks like haute cuisine, 188 00:08:13,188 --> 00:08:15,233 is actually an ode to Francesco's 189 00:08:15,277 --> 00:08:17,497 humble Calabrian roots. 190 00:08:30,858 --> 00:08:32,860 - Really? - Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. 191 00:08:32,903 --> 00:08:35,558 - So in all of the fish, it was a bit of salinity. 192 00:08:35,602 --> 00:08:38,300 We marinate with licorice for a couple of hours, 193 00:08:38,343 --> 00:08:41,651 and then of course, the red onion, Tropea onion. 194 00:08:41,695 --> 00:08:43,218 - So good. - So it's a bit like 195 00:08:43,261 --> 00:08:45,960 a bit of my experience on a plate. 196 00:08:46,003 --> 00:08:49,833 - Where do you see London food going in the future? 197 00:08:55,491 --> 00:08:56,710 - Cheers. - Cheers. 198 00:08:56,753 --> 00:08:59,582 - And thank you so much. Thank you--cheers. 199 00:08:59,626 --> 00:09:03,151 ♪ 200 00:09:05,675 --> 00:09:08,591 [lively jazz music] 201 00:09:08,635 --> 00:09:10,593 ♪ 202 00:09:10,637 --> 00:09:12,595 [both speak Italian] 203 00:09:16,294 --> 00:09:19,341 - There are over 3,000 Italian restaurants and delicatessens 204 00:09:19,384 --> 00:09:21,082 in London today. 205 00:09:21,125 --> 00:09:22,736 Look at that. 206 00:09:22,779 --> 00:09:25,434 But this British love affair with Italian food 207 00:09:25,477 --> 00:09:26,914 didn't simply happen overnight. 208 00:09:26,957 --> 00:09:28,742 Oh, my God. It's so sweet. 209 00:09:28,785 --> 00:09:30,613 That's the way it should be sliced. 210 00:09:30,657 --> 00:09:33,964 Look, you can almost see through it. 211 00:09:34,008 --> 00:09:36,401 One man's yearning for the food of his homeland 212 00:09:36,445 --> 00:09:37,838 wound up transforming 213 00:09:37,881 --> 00:09:40,449 this city's culinary landscape forever. 214 00:09:40,492 --> 00:09:43,757 ♪ 215 00:09:43,800 --> 00:09:46,716 Gennaro Contaldo's simple, genuine approach 216 00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:50,807 to Italian food started a gastronomic revolution. 217 00:09:50,851 --> 00:09:54,245 Look at him, waiting like a sentinel. 218 00:09:54,289 --> 00:09:57,335 Today, he's one of Britain's most adored TV chefs, 219 00:09:57,379 --> 00:09:59,555 and the man who taught Jamie Oliver 220 00:09:59,599 --> 00:10:02,819 practically everything he knows about Italian food. 221 00:10:02,863 --> 00:10:06,910 [both speaking Italian] 222 00:10:06,954 --> 00:10:08,042 - This is a church. 223 00:10:08,085 --> 00:10:09,870 Do we have to pray for our food? 224 00:10:09,913 --> 00:10:10,827 - [chuckles] 225 00:10:15,266 --> 00:10:18,052 - Oh, my God. - This is beautiful. 226 00:10:18,095 --> 00:10:19,793 - I'm never leavin'. 227 00:10:19,836 --> 00:10:22,752 This is Mercato Mayfair, an Italian food hall 228 00:10:22,796 --> 00:10:25,886 housed inside a deconsecrated church. 229 00:10:25,929 --> 00:10:27,061 - There's everything. I don't know where to start. 230 00:10:27,104 --> 00:10:28,758 - I don't know where to stop. 231 00:10:28,802 --> 00:10:30,978 Gennaro's taking me here to pick up some ingredients 232 00:10:31,021 --> 00:10:33,241 for a special dish he wants to cook me. 233 00:10:33,284 --> 00:10:36,287 That's if we can resist the temptation to eat beforehand. 234 00:10:36,331 --> 00:10:37,506 Oh, my God. Look at that. 235 00:10:37,549 --> 00:10:38,681 How come I don't have one of those? 236 00:10:38,725 --> 00:10:39,726 - [giggles] 237 00:10:39,769 --> 00:10:41,771 - [speaking Italian] 238 00:10:41,815 --> 00:10:43,251 - Oh, look at that. 239 00:10:43,294 --> 00:10:45,688 - This is what I'm talkin' about. 240 00:10:45,732 --> 00:10:48,212 - That's beautiful. Look at the color of that. 241 00:10:48,256 --> 00:10:49,692 I'm Stanley. - Ella. 242 00:10:49,736 --> 00:10:51,085 - Ella. 243 00:10:51,128 --> 00:10:52,086 Where did you learn to make pasta? 244 00:10:52,129 --> 00:10:53,565 - Here. - Oh, wow. 245 00:10:53,609 --> 00:10:55,916 So why did you come to London? 246 00:10:55,959 --> 00:10:57,657 - Because for work. - For work? 247 00:10:57,700 --> 00:10:59,223 - Yeah. - Yeah. 248 00:10:59,267 --> 00:11:01,486 The number of Italians in London has tripled 249 00:11:01,530 --> 00:11:03,053 in the last decade, 250 00:11:03,097 --> 00:11:05,708 driven mainly by young folk like Ella. 251 00:11:05,752 --> 00:11:07,318 I mean they're all Italian. - Yes! 252 00:11:07,362 --> 00:11:08,755 - Even if it's not an Italian restaurant, they're Italian. 253 00:11:08,798 --> 00:11:10,408 - [laughs] - But when Gennaro moved here 254 00:11:10,452 --> 00:11:14,325 in 1969, London was Europe's culinary backwater. 255 00:11:14,369 --> 00:11:16,327 There were no real Italian restaurants? 256 00:11:16,371 --> 00:11:19,113 - I walked in a place, and it was doing a carbonara, 257 00:11:19,156 --> 00:11:21,855 and the chef said, "Can I show you how to do the carbonara?" 258 00:11:21,898 --> 00:11:25,641 And they start to makes béchamels with a cheese, 259 00:11:25,685 --> 00:11:29,471 and then the spaghetti was already pre-cooked. 260 00:11:29,514 --> 00:11:30,864 - What? - Yes. 261 00:11:30,907 --> 00:11:33,214 Just said, "Look, I know how to do the proper one." 262 00:11:33,257 --> 00:11:35,695 He said, "Take your jacket and go away." 263 00:11:35,738 --> 00:11:38,045 - He fired you. - He fired me straight away. 264 00:11:38,088 --> 00:11:39,350 - Oh, my God. 265 00:11:39,394 --> 00:11:41,091 - Look at that. Tagliarini. 266 00:11:41,135 --> 00:11:42,571 - Is this what you wanna use? This one? 267 00:11:42,614 --> 00:11:45,748 - Yeah--would be nice with a lovely, lemony pasta. 268 00:11:45,792 --> 00:11:47,794 - Let's get one kilo. - Yeah. 269 00:11:47,837 --> 00:11:48,969 - All right, and we'll take the machine too. 270 00:11:49,012 --> 00:11:51,232 - [laughs] - Yeah. 271 00:11:51,275 --> 00:11:53,190 - Being the consummate forager, 272 00:11:53,234 --> 00:11:55,627 Gennaro's whisking me off to the other side of town 273 00:11:55,671 --> 00:11:57,325 to hunt for our next ingredient. 274 00:11:57,368 --> 00:11:59,240 - Look! London Wall. 275 00:11:59,283 --> 00:12:02,112 - A close cousin to arugula, rocket is believed 276 00:12:02,156 --> 00:12:03,635 to have been brought here by the Romans, 277 00:12:03,679 --> 00:12:06,943 who founded this city 2,000 years ago. 278 00:12:06,987 --> 00:12:09,380 And the area around the Roman walls 279 00:12:09,424 --> 00:12:10,860 is said to be a great spot 280 00:12:10,904 --> 00:12:13,123 for this ancient Mediterranean weed. 281 00:12:13,167 --> 00:12:14,734 - [speaking Italian] 282 00:12:14,777 --> 00:12:15,996 Caesar? No. 283 00:12:16,039 --> 00:12:17,911 - No, it's not. - It's not Caesar. 284 00:12:17,954 --> 00:12:19,173 - It's Trajan. 285 00:12:19,216 --> 00:12:21,044 - Trajan. [speaks Italian] 286 00:12:21,088 --> 00:12:23,046 - [giggling] 287 00:12:23,090 --> 00:12:25,005 - Can we find something rocket? 288 00:12:25,048 --> 00:12:26,310 - What is that? 289 00:12:26,354 --> 00:12:27,747 - I don't think so. 290 00:12:27,790 --> 00:12:29,052 - And it's supposed to be growing out of the wall? 291 00:12:29,096 --> 00:12:30,662 - But they used to call. 292 00:12:30,706 --> 00:12:34,057 - Ah! See, what's that? 293 00:12:34,101 --> 00:12:35,406 - Which one? - That. 294 00:12:35,450 --> 00:12:37,104 - That's a dandelion. That is a chicory, yeah. 295 00:12:37,147 --> 00:12:39,933 - But that's what my grandparents used to get 296 00:12:39,976 --> 00:12:42,979 on the side of the road. 297 00:12:43,023 --> 00:12:44,067 That's not it. 298 00:12:44,111 --> 00:12:46,113 But sadly, no luck. 299 00:12:46,156 --> 00:12:49,377 - There's everything except the rocket. 300 00:12:49,420 --> 00:12:51,858 - This is the end of July, and look at the weather. 301 00:12:51,901 --> 00:12:54,861 - My shoes are wet. - [chuckling] 302 00:12:54,904 --> 00:12:56,340 On a day like this, 303 00:12:56,384 --> 00:12:58,690 I can't imagine, coming from sunny Amalfi, 304 00:12:58,734 --> 00:13:01,041 that London looked very much like the promised land. 305 00:13:01,084 --> 00:13:03,695 [calm music] 306 00:13:03,739 --> 00:13:04,914 - You know, my village, 307 00:13:04,958 --> 00:13:06,960 you'd never seen such a beautiful place. 308 00:13:07,003 --> 00:13:07,961 - But it wasn't where you were supposed to stay. 309 00:13:08,004 --> 00:13:09,614 - Si! Yeah. 310 00:13:09,658 --> 00:13:12,835 I loved London, and after 50-odd years, I'm still here. 311 00:13:12,879 --> 00:13:14,271 - Yeah. I'm just happy I met you 312 00:13:14,315 --> 00:13:15,142 when I came here. - Yeah, I know. 313 00:13:15,185 --> 00:13:16,621 I'm happy. 314 00:13:16,665 --> 00:13:17,535 - Come on. - Come on. Let's go. 315 00:13:17,579 --> 00:13:20,234 [both speaking Italian] 316 00:13:20,277 --> 00:13:22,105 - Let's go cook. - All right. 317 00:13:22,149 --> 00:13:23,498 - Have you got any wild rocket yet? 318 00:13:23,541 --> 00:13:27,807 - No, I have a Roman wall right next to my house. 319 00:13:27,850 --> 00:13:29,765 A quick pitstop at a supermarket, 320 00:13:29,809 --> 00:13:31,288 and we're back at my house 321 00:13:31,332 --> 00:13:33,421 with enough wild rocket for a Roman legion. 322 00:13:33,464 --> 00:13:36,424 [soft piano music] 323 00:13:36,467 --> 00:13:39,166 - Smell it. - Oh, my God. 324 00:13:39,209 --> 00:13:40,994 - Where I come from, the Amalfi coast, 325 00:13:41,037 --> 00:13:43,866 lemons, lemons, lemons, and squeeze, squeeze, squeeze. 326 00:13:43,910 --> 00:13:46,173 Eat, eat, eat. 327 00:13:46,216 --> 00:13:48,653 - Amalfi lemons are renowned across Italy 328 00:13:48,697 --> 00:13:51,134 for their incredible sweetness. 329 00:13:51,178 --> 00:13:56,139 - Not a lot of pasta recipe involved around the lemon. 330 00:13:56,183 --> 00:14:00,274 Beautiful garlic. Cut 'em a little bit. 331 00:14:00,317 --> 00:14:02,102 Have we got any chili? 332 00:14:02,145 --> 00:14:03,712 - So here... - Yes. 333 00:14:03,755 --> 00:14:05,496 This is nice one. 334 00:14:05,540 --> 00:14:08,021 The chili don't have to be hot. - Yeah. 335 00:14:08,064 --> 00:14:10,458 - Chili bring out the flavor of whatever you eat. 336 00:14:10,501 --> 00:14:12,112 This is joyful. - Yes, yeah. 337 00:14:12,155 --> 00:14:13,765 - But have to be respect. 338 00:14:13,809 --> 00:14:16,507 So what we do with this one, we just leave him like that. 339 00:14:16,551 --> 00:14:17,682 - Don't even cut it. 340 00:14:17,726 --> 00:14:19,554 It's an instant little kick, isn't it? 341 00:14:19,597 --> 00:14:21,904 - And that garlic goes in. Put a little bit of oil. 342 00:14:21,948 --> 00:14:23,166 - I'm using extra virgin olive oil. 343 00:14:23,210 --> 00:14:24,254 - Nice, nice. - Yes, 344 00:14:24,298 --> 00:14:25,255 and I'm gonna bring it up, 345 00:14:25,299 --> 00:14:26,213 like, to a medium heat. 346 00:14:26,256 --> 00:14:28,345 ♪ 347 00:14:28,389 --> 00:14:29,781 I can smell it already. - The garlic. 348 00:14:29,825 --> 00:14:31,087 - Oh, my God, okay. 349 00:14:31,131 --> 00:14:33,350 - The same time, put salt inside, yes? 350 00:14:33,394 --> 00:14:35,526 - Yes, yes, yes. - Straight in. 351 00:14:35,570 --> 00:14:36,919 Look at that, that is yum. 352 00:14:36,963 --> 00:14:38,965 As soon as it come up, it's ready. 353 00:14:39,008 --> 00:14:40,705 - Yeah. - And if it's a little bit 354 00:14:40,749 --> 00:14:43,621 al dente, it doesn't matter. 355 00:14:43,665 --> 00:14:46,842 Oh, my--look at that! I'm sorry, 356 00:14:46,886 --> 00:14:50,454 I just get excited every time I cook a bit of pasta. 357 00:14:50,498 --> 00:14:53,283 - A little knob of a butter. - That's a big knob. 358 00:14:53,327 --> 00:14:54,806 - Yeah. - Yeah. 359 00:14:54,850 --> 00:14:57,374 - And now, you can get right on top of the chili, 360 00:14:57,418 --> 00:14:59,289 if you press 'em a little bit. - Yeah. 361 00:14:59,333 --> 00:15:00,943 So it's interesting that you use butter. 362 00:15:00,987 --> 00:15:03,163 - Who use butter? The campagna ate lots and lots 363 00:15:03,206 --> 00:15:04,947 of butter. - Lots of buffalo. 364 00:15:04,991 --> 00:15:07,036 - But what actually the butter do--look at that. 365 00:15:07,080 --> 00:15:08,951 Even the creaminess. - Yeah, mix it all. 366 00:15:08,995 --> 00:15:10,474 - Then mix it all like that. 367 00:15:10,518 --> 00:15:12,346 Just a little squeeze of lemon. 368 00:15:12,389 --> 00:15:16,132 - Gennaro's tagliarini with Amalfi lemon and London rocket 369 00:15:16,176 --> 00:15:19,309 may not be a strictly traditional recipe... 370 00:15:19,353 --> 00:15:21,268 - The lovely pepper and the one rocket. 371 00:15:21,311 --> 00:15:23,052 - Look at how beautiful that is. 372 00:15:23,096 --> 00:15:25,663 But it's with beautifully simple and inventive dishes 373 00:15:25,707 --> 00:15:27,970 like this that Gennaro was able to change 374 00:15:28,014 --> 00:15:31,452 London's culinary scene forever. 375 00:15:31,495 --> 00:15:32,627 - Yes...yes? - Oh, my God. 376 00:15:32,670 --> 00:15:34,281 Come on, come on. 377 00:15:34,324 --> 00:15:35,804 - Buon appetito. - Buon appetito. 378 00:15:35,847 --> 00:15:39,286 ♪ 379 00:15:39,329 --> 00:15:40,461 - Oh, my God. 380 00:15:40,504 --> 00:15:41,636 - The lemon. 381 00:15:44,813 --> 00:15:48,251 - Mmm, wow. Mmm. 382 00:15:48,295 --> 00:15:49,818 - Mmm. - Mmm. 383 00:15:49,861 --> 00:15:53,996 - I love it with the rocket. It's so good. 384 00:15:54,040 --> 00:15:55,215 - Mmm. 385 00:15:55,258 --> 00:15:57,260 - I don't even want to talk anymore 386 00:15:57,304 --> 00:15:59,828 about it or anything. 387 00:15:59,871 --> 00:16:00,829 I just wanna eat it. 388 00:16:00,872 --> 00:16:03,440 [lively music] 389 00:16:03,484 --> 00:16:06,269 Is Felicity here? Felicity? 390 00:16:06,313 --> 00:16:08,663 Sadly, our romantic meal for two 391 00:16:08,706 --> 00:16:11,013 is being interrupted by my wife. 392 00:16:11,057 --> 00:16:14,190 We're gonna make this again quickly for her. 393 00:16:14,234 --> 00:16:15,931 Oh, hi. - Hi, hun. 394 00:16:15,975 --> 00:16:17,150 - You're back. How was the dentist? 395 00:16:17,193 --> 00:16:19,456 - Oh, ever a pleasure. - Let me see. 396 00:16:19,500 --> 00:16:20,936 Oh, it looks good. - Go away. 397 00:16:20,980 --> 00:16:22,938 - How are you? 398 00:16:22,982 --> 00:16:24,331 - We just made this and ate it. 399 00:16:24,374 --> 00:16:25,767 - You didn't make-- - No, we couldn't. 400 00:16:25,810 --> 00:16:26,898 - Can we do it now? - We make it now--it's fresh. 401 00:16:26,942 --> 00:16:29,945 It's fresh. - Oh, yum... 402 00:16:29,989 --> 00:16:31,512 - Fantastico. 403 00:16:31,555 --> 00:16:33,253 - A little zest? - Yeah, zesting me. 404 00:16:33,296 --> 00:16:35,429 You are very zesty. 405 00:16:35,472 --> 00:16:37,039 - I've been told that for years. 406 00:16:37,083 --> 00:16:39,389 - Thank you. - [chuckles] 407 00:16:39,433 --> 00:16:40,608 - Mmm. 408 00:16:40,651 --> 00:16:41,565 [muffled] Oh, my God. 409 00:16:41,609 --> 00:16:43,915 ♪ 410 00:16:43,959 --> 00:16:45,526 - Isn't that incredible? - It's amazing. 411 00:16:45,569 --> 00:16:47,180 I'm trying to get a more manageable bite, 412 00:16:47,223 --> 00:16:49,051 but it just keeps coming. 413 00:16:49,095 --> 00:16:51,793 - And just like that, another Londoner converted 414 00:16:51,836 --> 00:16:55,579 by the gospel according to Gennaro Contaldo. 415 00:16:55,623 --> 00:16:57,625 - Would you like to move in? We can form a bubble. 416 00:16:57,668 --> 00:17:01,063 [laughter] 417 00:17:01,107 --> 00:17:03,631 [jazz music] 418 00:17:06,112 --> 00:17:09,071 [jazz music] 419 00:17:09,115 --> 00:17:11,204 ♪ 420 00:17:11,247 --> 00:17:13,075 - London's east end was once 421 00:17:13,119 --> 00:17:16,252 a blue-collar, multicultural neighborhood. 422 00:17:16,296 --> 00:17:18,080 But today, the area has blossomed 423 00:17:18,124 --> 00:17:20,213 into a gastronomic hot spot. 424 00:17:20,256 --> 00:17:22,389 ♪ 425 00:17:22,432 --> 00:17:26,480 At its heart is Spitalfields Market. 426 00:17:26,523 --> 00:17:28,090 I'm walking to meet a friend of mine, 427 00:17:28,134 --> 00:17:30,701 Angela Hartnett, who is an incredible chef, 428 00:17:30,745 --> 00:17:32,529 a Michelin-starred chef, 429 00:17:32,573 --> 00:17:35,315 but one of the most down-to-earth, 430 00:17:35,358 --> 00:17:37,447 loveliest people ever, and who knows more about food 431 00:17:37,491 --> 00:17:39,493 than any of us will ever know. 432 00:17:39,536 --> 00:17:41,973 - Hi, Matthew. I need some chicken. 433 00:17:42,017 --> 00:17:44,019 So probably those carcasses and maybe-- 434 00:17:44,063 --> 00:17:46,674 - Angela has invited me over to her house for lunch 435 00:17:46,717 --> 00:17:48,850 with her extended Welsh-Italian family. 436 00:17:48,893 --> 00:17:50,591 - Shin of beef. - But first, 437 00:17:50,634 --> 00:17:51,940 I've gotta actually help her cook. 438 00:17:51,983 --> 00:17:53,376 - I'd like rump as well, 'cause it would be 439 00:17:53,420 --> 00:17:54,986 quite cool to do that. [knocking on door] 440 00:17:55,030 --> 00:17:56,118 - May I? - Marvelous. 441 00:17:56,162 --> 00:17:57,337 Oh, hello. - Hi, how are you? 442 00:17:57,380 --> 00:17:59,687 - How are you? [laughs] 443 00:17:59,730 --> 00:18:01,384 - Nice to see you. - Likewise. 444 00:18:01,428 --> 00:18:03,604 - Yes, yes. - Welcome to East London. 445 00:18:03,647 --> 00:18:05,388 - What are you gettin'? - We're gettin' this beautiful 446 00:18:05,432 --> 00:18:06,476 shin of beef. - Okay. 447 00:18:06,520 --> 00:18:08,261 - Lovely sort of veal rump. 448 00:18:08,304 --> 00:18:10,132 These are both gonna be braised down, 449 00:18:10,176 --> 00:18:12,003 and then I want a load of chicken 450 00:18:12,047 --> 00:18:14,528 just to make this lovely, light broth. 451 00:18:14,571 --> 00:18:17,531 We'll take some red to cook with, and we'll take a white. 452 00:18:17,574 --> 00:18:19,359 - That's exciting. 453 00:18:19,402 --> 00:18:21,404 - You can carry the wine, Stan. - Yeah, sure. 454 00:18:21,448 --> 00:18:23,145 Where are we going? - Let's go cook. 455 00:18:23,189 --> 00:18:26,017 ♪ 456 00:18:26,061 --> 00:18:27,976 - Oh, I'm starving. - Well, you gotta cook 457 00:18:28,019 --> 00:18:30,196 a little bit first, Mr. Tucci. - Oh, yeah, that's right. 458 00:18:30,239 --> 00:18:34,330 - Just like mine, Angela's grandparents were Italian. 459 00:18:34,374 --> 00:18:37,116 They were part of a chain migration to Wales 460 00:18:37,159 --> 00:18:39,335 from a little town in Emilia-Romagna. 461 00:18:39,379 --> 00:18:40,815 ♪ 462 00:18:40,858 --> 00:18:42,164 What year was this? 463 00:18:42,208 --> 00:18:44,079 - This was after the first world war. 464 00:18:44,123 --> 00:18:45,646 Italy was decimated. - Yeah. 465 00:18:45,689 --> 00:18:47,213 - You know, the poverty there. - Mm. 466 00:18:47,256 --> 00:18:50,259 - And basically, it was the actual--same immigrant story 467 00:18:50,303 --> 00:18:52,174 that you get in America, in the U.S. 468 00:18:52,218 --> 00:18:55,743 - But why South Wales as opposed to England or America? 469 00:18:55,786 --> 00:18:58,615 - One person comes over, then their brother comes over, 470 00:18:58,659 --> 00:19:00,661 then he brings his wife, she brings her brother... 471 00:19:00,704 --> 00:19:01,879 - Right, right. - And suddenly, 472 00:19:01,923 --> 00:19:04,186 you have this tiny village in Italy, Bardi, 473 00:19:04,230 --> 00:19:07,407 near Bologna, near Parma, and all of them 474 00:19:07,450 --> 00:19:10,714 went over to South Wales. You know, bizarrely. 475 00:19:10,758 --> 00:19:12,760 So it's that "who you knew"-- 476 00:19:12,803 --> 00:19:14,849 - So you figure, "Well, at least I know this guy." 477 00:19:14,892 --> 00:19:16,720 - Yeah. 478 00:19:16,764 --> 00:19:18,200 - This really is a case of truth 479 00:19:18,244 --> 00:19:20,159 being stranger than fiction. 480 00:19:20,202 --> 00:19:23,901 Almost 80% of the original Welsh-Italian population 481 00:19:23,945 --> 00:19:26,774 can trace their heritage to the same village: 482 00:19:26,817 --> 00:19:29,255 Bardi. 483 00:19:29,298 --> 00:19:31,822 - As the eldest granddaughter, 484 00:19:31,866 --> 00:19:33,650 I was the one who had to do everything. 485 00:19:33,694 --> 00:19:35,348 If Nonna wanted shopping, it was me. 486 00:19:35,391 --> 00:19:37,001 - It was you, yeah. - If I had to go cook, 487 00:19:37,045 --> 00:19:38,873 it was me, or I had to clean. My brother was teased-- 488 00:19:38,916 --> 00:19:41,005 already did nothing. [laughs] 489 00:19:41,049 --> 00:19:42,659 - Yeah, yeah. - So you probably did nothing, 490 00:19:42,703 --> 00:19:44,052 and your sisters did everything. 491 00:19:44,095 --> 00:19:45,836 Have sympathy for them, Stanley. 492 00:19:45,880 --> 00:19:47,621 - Oh, my God. Yeah. 493 00:19:47,664 --> 00:19:50,624 It was at her nonna's table that Angela first learned 494 00:19:50,667 --> 00:19:53,322 to make agnolini in brodo, 495 00:19:53,366 --> 00:19:55,194 a filled egg pasta 496 00:19:55,237 --> 00:19:59,676 served in a rich broth made traditionally for Christmas. 497 00:19:59,720 --> 00:20:03,114 - This is what we will put into--in a hot-- 498 00:20:03,158 --> 00:20:05,682 [dramatic music] 499 00:20:05,726 --> 00:20:06,944 Is that okay? - Oh, come on. 500 00:20:06,988 --> 00:20:09,425 - [laughs] Oh, come on. 501 00:20:09,469 --> 00:20:10,557 - It's so good. 502 00:20:10,600 --> 00:20:12,341 While the broth simmers away, 503 00:20:12,385 --> 00:20:14,604 we're getting started on the filling for the pasta. 504 00:20:14,648 --> 00:20:16,171 And in here, what do you have? You have-- 505 00:20:16,215 --> 00:20:18,129 - I've got celery. I've got carrots. 506 00:20:18,173 --> 00:20:20,480 I've got garlic, and I'm gonna press all of that, 507 00:20:20,523 --> 00:20:21,568 'cause it's so soft now... 508 00:20:21,611 --> 00:20:22,917 - Yeah. - Through a sieve, 509 00:20:22,960 --> 00:20:24,658 and we're gonna put that into the filling. 510 00:20:24,701 --> 00:20:27,008 Just parsing all the veg. - Oh, that's beautiful. 511 00:20:27,051 --> 00:20:29,880 - Just so you don't waste any of that. 512 00:20:29,924 --> 00:20:31,752 And that's gonna go-- - Inside the pasta. 513 00:20:31,795 --> 00:20:33,841 - Inside. - There's no meat inside of it. 514 00:20:33,884 --> 00:20:36,147 No. - Traditionally, no. 515 00:20:36,191 --> 00:20:38,846 - Yeah, no, that's gorgeous. Yeah, okay. 516 00:20:38,889 --> 00:20:41,936 Just like in the foggy valleys of Emilia-Romagna... 517 00:20:41,979 --> 00:20:43,677 - Then we add the cheese. 518 00:20:43,720 --> 00:20:45,287 - Breadcrumbs and cheese, 519 00:20:45,331 --> 00:20:47,550 affordable even to the poorest families, 520 00:20:47,594 --> 00:20:49,248 take the place of meat in the filling. 521 00:20:49,291 --> 00:20:50,336 - This is looking good. 522 00:20:50,379 --> 00:20:52,294 I'm not gonna do tons, otherwise, 523 00:20:52,338 --> 00:20:53,948 you'll never get back to West London, Stanley, 524 00:20:53,991 --> 00:20:55,428 that's all I'm saying. - Yeah, that's true. 525 00:20:55,471 --> 00:20:58,561 Do you feel more Italian than British, 526 00:20:58,605 --> 00:21:00,084 or an amalgam of both? 527 00:21:00,128 --> 00:21:01,651 - This is my home country. I love it. 528 00:21:01,695 --> 00:21:04,045 But I definitely think if you've been brought up 529 00:21:04,088 --> 00:21:08,484 with the Italian DNA of just generosity and family, 530 00:21:08,528 --> 00:21:10,443 it's very hard not to keep that in you, 531 00:21:10,486 --> 00:21:11,966 and we're very family. 532 00:21:12,009 --> 00:21:13,707 ♪ 533 00:21:13,750 --> 00:21:15,970 - Speaking of family, 534 00:21:16,013 --> 00:21:19,408 Angela's mother, Giuliana, her Aunt Viv, and Uncle Ren, 535 00:21:19,452 --> 00:21:21,671 have arrived just in time to do the hard work 536 00:21:21,715 --> 00:21:24,021 of filling the agnolini. 537 00:21:24,065 --> 00:21:27,024 So you were all born here? all: Yes. 538 00:21:27,068 --> 00:21:29,679 - All born here--or in Wales. all: South Wales. 539 00:21:29,723 --> 00:21:31,115 - Yeah, yeah. 540 00:21:31,159 --> 00:21:34,031 - You get that great confusion between cultures 541 00:21:34,075 --> 00:21:38,209 of making pasta, drinking tea. It's just crazy. 542 00:21:38,253 --> 00:21:39,559 - And this is the filling that I made 543 00:21:39,602 --> 00:21:43,127 with Stanley earlier, Mum. - See what it's like. 544 00:21:43,171 --> 00:21:45,652 - Mmm. - Slightly bit more salt on it. 545 00:21:45,695 --> 00:21:47,131 - Bit more salt? Okay, Mum. That's fine. 546 00:21:47,175 --> 00:21:48,742 We can put a little bit more salt. 547 00:21:48,785 --> 00:21:50,396 [laughter] - I'm getting the sense 548 00:21:50,439 --> 00:21:52,702 that in this family, Angela's Michelin star 549 00:21:52,746 --> 00:21:54,530 doesn't count for all that much. 550 00:21:54,574 --> 00:21:56,097 - It's a system to follow. 551 00:21:56,140 --> 00:21:57,490 - It is a lot of work, isn't it? 552 00:21:57,533 --> 00:21:59,361 This is what people did, 553 00:21:59,405 --> 00:22:00,667 'cause you weren't doing anything else. 554 00:22:00,710 --> 00:22:02,364 - Everyone's like quick recipes, 555 00:22:02,408 --> 00:22:04,192 but actually, good recipes take time. 556 00:22:04,235 --> 00:22:05,889 A little bit less than the filling. 557 00:22:05,933 --> 00:22:07,630 Yeah, don't go too big, Mr. Tucci. 558 00:22:07,674 --> 00:22:08,979 - I'm sorry. - I mean, honestly, 559 00:22:09,023 --> 00:22:10,633 you turn your back for one minute, 560 00:22:10,677 --> 00:22:13,680 and it all goes to pot. - I'm nervous. 561 00:22:13,723 --> 00:22:14,942 - Beautiful. 562 00:22:14,985 --> 00:22:16,247 You still haven't lost your touch, Mum. 563 00:22:16,291 --> 00:22:17,510 - No, no, no. - Just press them down, 564 00:22:17,553 --> 00:22:20,121 and then use your stamp. 565 00:22:20,164 --> 00:22:21,209 - Oh, my God. I'm gonna make these 566 00:22:21,252 --> 00:22:22,471 with my kids. - Yeah. 567 00:22:22,515 --> 00:22:25,909 - It's like a little sun. They're so pretty. 568 00:22:25,953 --> 00:22:29,043 - We tend to make about 800. 569 00:22:29,086 --> 00:22:30,653 - On a good day. - There's always a cheer 570 00:22:30,697 --> 00:22:33,090 when we break the 500-- - I know. 571 00:22:33,134 --> 00:22:36,267 - And then phone calls go to my aunt's 572 00:22:36,311 --> 00:22:38,357 to check how many they've made. 573 00:22:38,400 --> 00:22:39,836 - So it's a bit of a competition? 574 00:22:39,880 --> 00:22:41,185 both: Yeah. 575 00:22:41,229 --> 00:22:42,796 - That's enough of this. - Gorgeous. 576 00:22:42,839 --> 00:22:44,406 All right, let's cook 'em. 577 00:22:44,450 --> 00:22:47,104 - Right, so just literally in, and they're gonna come up. 578 00:22:47,148 --> 00:22:51,718 ♪ 579 00:22:51,761 --> 00:22:53,415 - Oh, my God. This is incredible. 580 00:22:53,459 --> 00:22:55,199 It smells like healthiest thing in the world. 581 00:22:55,243 --> 00:22:56,462 Mmm. 582 00:22:56,505 --> 00:22:57,854 - Ta-da. both: Oh. 583 00:22:57,898 --> 00:22:59,682 - The sun came out! - Yeah. 584 00:22:59,726 --> 00:23:02,293 - It's the end of July, but the scent of agnolini 585 00:23:02,337 --> 00:23:04,948 is making us all feel a little Christmas-y. 586 00:23:04,992 --> 00:23:06,820 [laughter] - Is that enough, Mum? 587 00:23:06,863 --> 00:23:08,343 - Yeah, plenty. - Plenty. 588 00:23:08,387 --> 00:23:09,605 - Buon appetito. 589 00:23:09,649 --> 00:23:12,086 - Yeah. - Buon appetito. 590 00:23:12,129 --> 00:23:13,174 - Thank you. Didn't think you're gonna have 591 00:23:13,217 --> 00:23:14,305 agnolini in the summer, 592 00:23:14,349 --> 00:23:16,046 did you, Ren? [laughter] 593 00:23:16,090 --> 00:23:18,092 - This is terribly exciting. - [laughs] 594 00:23:18,135 --> 00:23:19,267 - I have to say... - Thank you, helpers. 595 00:23:19,310 --> 00:23:22,270 all: Thank you. - Cheers. 596 00:23:22,313 --> 00:23:24,228 I've heard a lot about you. - [speaks Italian] 597 00:23:24,272 --> 00:23:25,665 - Yeah, it wasn't good. [laughter] 598 00:23:25,708 --> 00:23:27,014 - Oh, I know. I can imagine. 599 00:23:27,057 --> 00:23:28,929 [laughter] 600 00:23:28,972 --> 00:23:31,366 - Mmm, I can smell them, Angela. 601 00:23:31,410 --> 00:23:32,802 - Yeah. - Yeah, but that's... 602 00:23:32,846 --> 00:23:34,848 that's delicious. - They're very good, Ang. 603 00:23:34,891 --> 00:23:36,066 The broth is delicious. - Mmm. 604 00:23:36,110 --> 00:23:38,286 all: Mmm. 605 00:23:38,329 --> 00:23:40,201 - This is incredible. - Mmm, very good. 606 00:23:40,244 --> 00:23:42,029 - Absolutely incredible. 607 00:23:42,072 --> 00:23:44,423 What these agnolini lack in meat, 608 00:23:44,466 --> 00:23:47,556 they more than make up for in flavor. 609 00:23:47,600 --> 00:23:49,602 I'm still waiting for Angela's mother's approval. 610 00:23:49,645 --> 00:23:50,994 - What'cha think, mum? 611 00:23:51,038 --> 00:23:52,996 - Quality control. - Very nice, thank you. 612 00:23:53,040 --> 00:23:55,695 - Tastes lovely. [laughter] 613 00:23:55,738 --> 00:23:58,698 - Angela's family gathering together to make and eat 614 00:23:58,741 --> 00:24:02,876 these amazing agnolini brings back memories of home, 615 00:24:02,919 --> 00:24:06,227 even a few generations later. 616 00:24:06,270 --> 00:24:09,360 - And they still do it in Bardi. 617 00:24:09,404 --> 00:24:11,406 - On a Thursday, they will bake this. 618 00:24:11,450 --> 00:24:13,321 - All right, now I'm gonna have to make this at Christmas. 619 00:24:13,364 --> 00:24:14,714 - Yeah, yeah. - Yeah, yeah. 620 00:24:14,757 --> 00:24:17,630 - Well, you've got a team. You've got a team, right? 621 00:24:17,673 --> 00:24:19,588 - I have so many children. [laughter] 622 00:24:19,632 --> 00:24:20,937 - Exactly. - Get them working. 623 00:24:20,981 --> 00:24:21,982 - Yeah. 624 00:24:22,025 --> 00:24:24,898 [delightful music] 625 00:24:27,553 --> 00:24:30,512 [jazz music] 626 00:24:30,556 --> 00:24:32,558 ♪ 627 00:24:32,601 --> 00:24:34,690 - I'm in Chelsea, a charming neighborhood 628 00:24:34,734 --> 00:24:36,953 renowned for its tasteful boutiques 629 00:24:36,997 --> 00:24:39,565 and picturesque streets. 630 00:24:39,608 --> 00:24:41,175 I'm going to what might be 631 00:24:41,218 --> 00:24:45,527 the only restaurant of its kind in the world. 632 00:24:45,571 --> 00:24:47,486 Rather than specializing in dishes 633 00:24:47,529 --> 00:24:49,400 from a specific region of Italy, 634 00:24:49,444 --> 00:24:52,316 La Mia Mamma heralds the art of home cooking 635 00:24:52,360 --> 00:24:54,188 in a very unique way. 636 00:24:54,231 --> 00:24:58,018 ♪ 637 00:24:58,061 --> 00:24:59,889 - Ciao, Signore Stanley, how are you? 638 00:24:59,933 --> 00:25:01,935 - Ciao, ciao, ciao. The place is the brainchild 639 00:25:01,978 --> 00:25:05,025 of Sicilian restauranteur Peppe Corsaro. 640 00:25:05,068 --> 00:25:06,287 - Did you have a restaurant in Sicily? 641 00:25:06,330 --> 00:25:08,158 - No, we didn't, no. But actually, 642 00:25:08,202 --> 00:25:10,160 when I came to London, you know, 643 00:25:10,204 --> 00:25:12,598 I realized I was missing Mamma's food lots. 644 00:25:12,641 --> 00:25:14,730 You know, I lost about 20 kilos. 645 00:25:14,774 --> 00:25:16,819 I was always, you know, "My mom, she does it this way." 646 00:25:16,863 --> 00:25:18,473 One of my friends, you know, we're having a glass of wine, 647 00:25:18,517 --> 00:25:19,561 and he said, "Why don't you bring your mamma?" 648 00:25:19,605 --> 00:25:20,997 You know, he was joking. 649 00:25:21,041 --> 00:25:22,825 The following day, I call my mum, 650 00:25:22,869 --> 00:25:24,827 and she didn't even think twice. 651 00:25:24,871 --> 00:25:26,873 - Every few months, this restaurant 652 00:25:26,916 --> 00:25:29,179 visits a new Italian region. 653 00:25:29,223 --> 00:25:31,094 And not only does the menu change, 654 00:25:31,138 --> 00:25:32,748 so do the chefs. 655 00:25:32,792 --> 00:25:34,663 These daring mothers left their homes 656 00:25:34,707 --> 00:25:36,447 in search of opportunity. 657 00:25:36,491 --> 00:25:38,319 But somehow, they've managed to bring 658 00:25:38,362 --> 00:25:40,451 the best thing about Italy to London. 659 00:25:40,495 --> 00:25:42,541 - [speaking Italian] 660 00:25:42,584 --> 00:25:44,238 - Peppe's sister, Sara, 661 00:25:44,281 --> 00:25:46,806 was one of the first mammas to join. 662 00:25:46,849 --> 00:25:49,373 - You see, how many different mammas do you have 663 00:25:49,417 --> 00:25:50,766 at one time in the kitchen? 664 00:25:50,810 --> 00:25:52,463 - Four, five. - Really? 665 00:25:52,507 --> 00:25:56,076 - Yeah, 'cause there's so many beautiful regions in Italy. 666 00:25:56,119 --> 00:25:58,295 Why limit ourselves to one mamma item? 667 00:25:58,339 --> 00:26:00,341 Why don't we bring mamma from different region? 668 00:26:00,384 --> 00:26:02,343 - This idea is a brilliant idea. 669 00:26:02,386 --> 00:26:04,954 - Thank you. - It's brilliant. 670 00:26:04,998 --> 00:26:07,740 This month, the restaurant's menu is set 671 00:26:07,783 --> 00:26:11,526 by mothers Rosanna, Patricia, and Angela. 672 00:26:11,570 --> 00:26:13,789 Since they're from the southern region of Campania, 673 00:26:13,833 --> 00:26:17,097 they're going to teach me a beloved Sunday classic. 674 00:26:17,140 --> 00:26:18,707 So what are we doing? - Okay. 675 00:26:22,493 --> 00:26:25,453 - What are we making? - Ragu [indistinct]. 676 00:26:25,496 --> 00:26:26,628 - Napoletano. 677 00:26:26,672 --> 00:26:28,412 - Ragu Napoletano. - Yes. 678 00:26:28,456 --> 00:26:30,327 - So what is that? Explain that to me. 679 00:26:30,371 --> 00:26:33,243 - [speaking Italian] 680 00:26:36,246 --> 00:26:39,119 - [speaking Italian] 681 00:26:49,085 --> 00:26:50,434 - Mmm. - Oh... 682 00:26:50,478 --> 00:26:52,872 - Look away now, if you're a vegetarian. 683 00:26:52,915 --> 00:26:56,789 The ragu Napoletano is a symphony of meat: 684 00:26:56,832 --> 00:27:00,531 beef ribs, cuts of pork, sausages, 685 00:27:00,575 --> 00:27:02,664 thinly-cut slices of steak, 686 00:27:02,708 --> 00:27:06,407 are all browned, then poached in red wine... 687 00:27:06,450 --> 00:27:07,930 [speaking Italian] 688 00:27:07,974 --> 00:27:11,412 [all speaking Italian] 689 00:27:11,455 --> 00:27:12,979 - And finally, 690 00:27:13,022 --> 00:27:15,982 simmered in a cascade of San Marzano tomatoes 691 00:27:16,025 --> 00:27:18,201 until the meat is falling off the bone. 692 00:27:18,245 --> 00:27:22,205 [both speaking Italian] 693 00:27:22,249 --> 00:27:23,990 - Yeah, yeah, yeah. - [speaking Italian] 694 00:27:29,778 --> 00:27:30,736 - Oh, when it bubbles? - Yes! 695 00:27:30,779 --> 00:27:32,041 Or like pops? 696 00:27:32,085 --> 00:27:34,696 Pippiare. I've never heard that. 697 00:27:34,740 --> 00:27:37,917 [lively music] 698 00:27:37,960 --> 00:27:41,616 The aroma of this classic meat-based tomato sauce... 699 00:27:41,660 --> 00:27:43,052 - You have to smell. - Yes. 700 00:27:43,096 --> 00:27:45,054 Is one I awakened to practically 701 00:27:45,098 --> 00:27:47,883 every Sunday morning of my childhood. 702 00:27:47,927 --> 00:27:49,711 - Yeah, but it's a good-- - That smells really nice. 703 00:27:49,755 --> 00:27:51,844 - Yes. - And the mammas are indulging 704 00:27:51,887 --> 00:27:53,889 my sense of longing for those years. 705 00:27:53,933 --> 00:27:56,326 - [speaking Italian] 706 00:27:56,370 --> 00:27:57,371 - [speaking Italian] 707 00:27:57,414 --> 00:27:58,633 - Yes, it's not allowed. 708 00:27:58,677 --> 00:28:00,374 It's like no one is allowed to do it. 709 00:28:00,417 --> 00:28:01,767 - Yeah. - But it's the best part. 710 00:28:01,810 --> 00:28:03,682 Mmm, it's already so good. 711 00:28:03,725 --> 00:28:06,293 You have to do it. La scarpetta. 712 00:28:06,336 --> 00:28:08,861 - Scarpetta, meaning "little shoe," 713 00:28:08,904 --> 00:28:11,646 is how every Italian child first tastes 714 00:28:11,690 --> 00:28:12,647 their mother's ragu. 715 00:28:12,691 --> 00:28:16,346 ♪ 716 00:28:16,390 --> 00:28:17,478 Yeah. 717 00:28:17,521 --> 00:28:20,786 ♪ 718 00:28:20,829 --> 00:28:23,266 - Mmm. - That's gonna be great. 719 00:28:23,310 --> 00:28:27,793 No, you can tell... it has that depth of flavor, 720 00:28:27,836 --> 00:28:30,752 with all that [speaks Italian]. 721 00:28:30,796 --> 00:28:32,145 - Si. - Incredible. 722 00:28:32,188 --> 00:28:34,582 Amazingly, none of these brave women 723 00:28:34,625 --> 00:28:36,105 had ever worked in a professional kitchen 724 00:28:36,149 --> 00:28:37,585 before coming here. 725 00:28:37,628 --> 00:28:39,805 Few spoke any English at all. 726 00:28:39,848 --> 00:28:42,633 But this city's given them a new lust for life. 727 00:28:42,677 --> 00:28:45,593 [both speaking Italian] 728 00:28:45,636 --> 00:28:48,161 - Elementary school teacher? - Si. 729 00:29:06,875 --> 00:29:09,138 - How long have you been here in the restaurant? 730 00:29:09,182 --> 00:29:12,054 [all speaking Italian] 731 00:29:28,331 --> 00:29:30,725 - Sexy. - Wow! 732 00:29:30,769 --> 00:29:32,988 That's the one English word you know. 733 00:29:33,032 --> 00:29:35,338 - She's flirting with you. - We could be a thing? 734 00:29:35,382 --> 00:29:37,819 [laughter] 735 00:29:37,863 --> 00:29:40,691 ♪ 736 00:29:40,735 --> 00:29:42,824 - You know, there's no, like, first course, second course. 737 00:29:42,868 --> 00:29:45,131 It's like a feast. At La Mammas, 738 00:29:45,174 --> 00:29:47,394 they always keep cooking. They keep bringing more food. 739 00:29:47,437 --> 00:29:49,135 You cannot think, "Okay, I'm full." 740 00:29:49,178 --> 00:29:50,832 - Tomato, basil, yeah. 741 00:29:50,876 --> 00:29:52,399 Sepia? - Yeah. 742 00:29:52,442 --> 00:29:53,879 - Oh, beautiful. - Cuttlefish. 743 00:29:53,922 --> 00:29:55,968 - Mmm. [indistinct chatter] 744 00:29:56,011 --> 00:29:58,361 - [speaks Italian] - Oh! 745 00:29:58,405 --> 00:29:59,841 [both speaking Italian] 746 00:29:59,885 --> 00:30:03,453 [indistinct chatter] - Oh, my God. 747 00:30:05,978 --> 00:30:09,677 [laughter] 748 00:30:09,720 --> 00:30:11,548 [vocalizing] 749 00:30:11,592 --> 00:30:14,464 [indistinct chatter] 750 00:30:16,162 --> 00:30:18,904 - This is really delicious. 751 00:30:18,947 --> 00:30:19,861 [speaks Italian] 752 00:30:21,820 --> 00:30:24,779 - The ragu, lovingly simmered for six long hours, 753 00:30:24,823 --> 00:30:26,259 just melts in your mouth. 754 00:30:26,302 --> 00:30:28,870 ♪ 755 00:30:28,914 --> 00:30:31,133 With its promise of opportunity, 756 00:30:31,177 --> 00:30:33,788 this city attracts immigrants from across the globe. 757 00:30:33,832 --> 00:30:35,529 But when each of these adventurous mothers 758 00:30:35,572 --> 00:30:37,313 arrive in London, 759 00:30:37,357 --> 00:30:40,186 they bring a little slice of their own home with them. 760 00:30:40,229 --> 00:30:42,231 [all singing in Italian] 761 00:30:42,275 --> 00:30:43,929 [applause] 762 00:30:43,972 --> 00:30:45,408 I'm about to explode, 763 00:30:45,452 --> 00:30:46,932 but the mammas won't let me leave 764 00:30:46,975 --> 00:30:48,542 without a proper send-off. 765 00:30:48,585 --> 00:30:52,589 all: Grazie! [all cheer] 766 00:30:52,633 --> 00:30:54,504 - So whenever I'm missing home, 767 00:30:54,548 --> 00:30:57,681 and my mother, I know where to go. 768 00:30:57,725 --> 00:30:59,379 [both speak Italian] Thank you. 769 00:30:59,422 --> 00:31:00,902 Thank you. It was great. 770 00:31:00,946 --> 00:31:02,599 I'll see you for breakfast. 771 00:31:02,643 --> 00:31:04,906 - Okay-- [laughter] 772 00:31:04,950 --> 00:31:07,474 ♪ 773 00:31:09,955 --> 00:31:12,914 [jazz music] 774 00:31:12,958 --> 00:31:14,437 ♪ 775 00:31:14,481 --> 00:31:18,180 - This is London's beating heart. 776 00:31:18,224 --> 00:31:20,879 Historically, the meeting point between the city's 777 00:31:20,922 --> 00:31:24,839 wealthy west end and working class east was Soho. 778 00:31:24,883 --> 00:31:27,755 It's a place that's always welcomed everyone. 779 00:31:27,798 --> 00:31:29,931 So Italians, too, have left their mark. 780 00:31:29,975 --> 00:31:31,759 ♪ 781 00:31:31,802 --> 00:31:34,109 100 years ago, these streets were home 782 00:31:34,153 --> 00:31:36,242 to a network of Italian businesses, 783 00:31:36,285 --> 00:31:39,636 feeding and employing the 13,000 Italians 784 00:31:39,680 --> 00:31:42,117 who lived in this little Italy. 785 00:31:42,161 --> 00:31:44,728 The Camisa brothers first opened a grocery store here 786 00:31:44,772 --> 00:31:47,340 on old Compton Street in 1929. 787 00:31:47,383 --> 00:31:49,211 - [speaks Italian] 788 00:31:49,255 --> 00:31:50,734 - [speaks Italian] - Let me get, then, 789 00:31:50,778 --> 00:31:53,215 some tortellini. - How much would you like? 790 00:31:53,259 --> 00:31:56,131 - Enough for four people who eat a lot. 791 00:31:56,175 --> 00:31:58,742 - Four Italian portions. - [chuckles] Yes, yes. 792 00:31:58,786 --> 00:32:00,092 But in those days, 793 00:32:00,135 --> 00:32:02,485 no British person, rich or poor, 794 00:32:02,529 --> 00:32:04,705 would have stepped foot in a place like this 795 00:32:04,748 --> 00:32:07,403 to try low-class Italian food. 796 00:32:07,447 --> 00:32:08,752 You have the sausage? - Yeah, all done. 797 00:32:08,796 --> 00:32:09,753 Yeah? - Perfect, yes. 798 00:32:09,797 --> 00:32:11,059 [speaks Italian] - Ciao. 799 00:32:11,103 --> 00:32:12,669 - Thanks a lot, bye-bye. - Good to see you, bye. 800 00:32:12,713 --> 00:32:15,672 - Just around the corner, in 1926, 801 00:32:15,716 --> 00:32:18,414 an Italian restaurant set out to change all this 802 00:32:18,458 --> 00:32:22,157 by pretending it wasn't an Italian restaurant at all. 803 00:32:22,201 --> 00:32:24,986 ♪ 804 00:32:25,030 --> 00:32:26,901 - So it's a cold roast beef salad 805 00:32:26,945 --> 00:32:29,382 with peaches, horseradish, and watercress. 806 00:32:29,425 --> 00:32:31,862 - Wow. [indistinct chatter] 807 00:32:31,906 --> 00:32:34,604 - When Quo Vadis first opened its doors, 808 00:32:34,648 --> 00:32:36,737 French haute cuisine was all the rage 809 00:32:36,780 --> 00:32:38,130 in London's high society. 810 00:32:38,173 --> 00:32:39,479 - Ooh, la la. 811 00:32:39,522 --> 00:32:41,655 - Try and stagger this as best you can 812 00:32:41,698 --> 00:32:43,178 to avoid carnage. 813 00:32:43,222 --> 00:32:46,181 Give us five minutes between tables at least, yeah? 814 00:32:46,225 --> 00:32:49,880 - Today, this restaurant is run by Chef Jeremy Lee, 815 00:32:49,924 --> 00:32:53,449 who's preparing us some of Quo Vadis' famous dishes... 816 00:32:53,493 --> 00:32:54,973 - It's complete heaven on Earth. 817 00:32:55,016 --> 00:32:58,411 - From those early trailblazing days. 818 00:32:58,454 --> 00:32:59,586 Oh, it's pretty. 819 00:32:59,629 --> 00:33:01,240 And joining me for lunch, 820 00:33:01,283 --> 00:33:03,764 is an expert in Italian immigration, Terry Copee.. 821 00:33:03,807 --> 00:33:05,331 - Oh, hello. - Hi, how are you? 822 00:33:05,374 --> 00:33:07,159 - How nice to see you. - Nice to see you too. 823 00:33:07,202 --> 00:33:09,552 Who like me, loves Italian food. 824 00:33:09,596 --> 00:33:11,946 Hi. - So we have got... 825 00:33:11,990 --> 00:33:12,860 - Yes. - And... 826 00:33:15,080 --> 00:33:16,255 [glass dings] - Beautiful. 827 00:33:16,298 --> 00:33:17,778 both: Thank you. 828 00:33:17,821 --> 00:33:19,388 - The chime at the end... - Yes. 829 00:33:19,432 --> 00:33:23,131 - That's so nice. So this is chicken alla... 830 00:33:23,175 --> 00:33:24,654 principessa, or something like that. 831 00:33:24,698 --> 00:33:26,961 - Mm-hmm. Delicious. 832 00:33:27,005 --> 00:33:28,919 - Let's have a little bit of this sage butter. 833 00:33:28,963 --> 00:33:31,052 Mmm. Do you see how I gave myself 834 00:33:31,096 --> 00:33:33,141 the bigger piece? Isn't that terrible? 835 00:33:33,185 --> 00:33:35,665 - Tradition dictates... [laughter] 836 00:33:35,709 --> 00:33:37,363 - I love it. Saltimbocca means 837 00:33:37,406 --> 00:33:39,234 "to jump in your mouth." - Exactly. 838 00:33:39,278 --> 00:33:40,192 - All right, let's eat. 839 00:33:40,235 --> 00:33:46,981 ♪ 840 00:33:47,025 --> 00:33:48,287 [muffled] Oh, delicious. 841 00:33:48,330 --> 00:33:49,418 How's the chicken? 842 00:33:49,462 --> 00:33:51,377 - That is so delicious. 843 00:33:51,420 --> 00:33:53,901 - The saltimbocca I recognize. 844 00:33:53,944 --> 00:33:57,818 But I've never seen pollo alla principessa on a menu before. 845 00:33:57,861 --> 00:34:00,516 - Yeah, that sauce is really tasty. 846 00:34:00,560 --> 00:34:02,127 That's not... - Oh, my God. 847 00:34:02,170 --> 00:34:04,477 - Italian. That's very French... 848 00:34:04,520 --> 00:34:07,784 - It tastes more French to me. - An idea that the sauce is. 849 00:34:07,828 --> 00:34:10,309 - We have to get Jeremy in. Jeremy! 850 00:34:10,352 --> 00:34:12,485 - Hello, my darlings. How are you? 851 00:34:12,528 --> 00:34:13,834 - Good, how are you? - Very well. 852 00:34:13,877 --> 00:34:15,314 - This was delicious. - Did you like those? 853 00:34:15,357 --> 00:34:16,750 - Very much. - Oh, my God. 854 00:34:16,793 --> 00:34:17,881 It's delicious. - There must have been a time 855 00:34:17,925 --> 00:34:19,579 when they were the height of modernity. 856 00:34:19,622 --> 00:34:22,016 Now, it has become almost dishes of antiquity. 857 00:34:22,060 --> 00:34:24,497 - But so tell me, what is that? 858 00:34:24,540 --> 00:34:27,630 - Well, princess' chicken-- I mean, anyone's guess really. 859 00:34:27,674 --> 00:34:32,418 But there was a simmering of porcini and shallot in butter, 860 00:34:32,461 --> 00:34:34,550 which is then simmered in white wine. 861 00:34:34,594 --> 00:34:37,118 to which then added a great glug of cream. 862 00:34:37,162 --> 00:34:39,773 So I think, interestingly, it was just like French food. 863 00:34:39,816 --> 00:34:42,558 - So the sauce is the principessa bit? 864 00:34:42,602 --> 00:34:44,517 - Exactly. So I think these dishes 865 00:34:44,560 --> 00:34:48,173 with rich sauces were really very haphazard homage 866 00:34:48,216 --> 00:34:51,176 to an original. - Yeah. 867 00:34:51,219 --> 00:34:54,875 London's crème de la crme lapped up these dishes. 868 00:34:54,918 --> 00:34:58,008 But it was all a sleight of hand dreamed up by Quo Vadis' 869 00:34:58,052 --> 00:35:00,968 notorious owner, Peppino Leoni. 870 00:35:01,011 --> 00:35:02,448 - The saltimbocca 871 00:35:02,491 --> 00:35:04,406 wouldn't have been called that, and certainly, 872 00:35:04,450 --> 00:35:06,452 prosciutto de Parma... - Yeah. 873 00:35:06,495 --> 00:35:09,498 - Was jambon de Parm. - [chuckles] 874 00:35:09,542 --> 00:35:13,415 - He was introducing Italian foods into a cuisine-- 875 00:35:13,459 --> 00:35:15,243 - Sort of surreptitiously, yeah. 876 00:35:15,287 --> 00:35:16,810 - Which was very French. - Yeah. 877 00:35:16,853 --> 00:35:18,333 That's really interesting. - And of course, gradually, 878 00:35:18,377 --> 00:35:22,381 it was translated into Italian food. 879 00:35:22,424 --> 00:35:25,862 - Even though it was Italian. - Even though it was Italian. 880 00:35:25,906 --> 00:35:28,213 - Yes, that's right, and I think France and Italy 881 00:35:28,256 --> 00:35:30,563 have always vied for supremacy. 882 00:35:30,606 --> 00:35:32,956 - Yes, right. - But I think what Peppino did, 883 00:35:33,000 --> 00:35:34,393 was he must've been amongst the first 884 00:35:34,436 --> 00:35:36,612 to glamorize Italian cooking. 885 00:35:36,656 --> 00:35:38,658 - Do we know what kind of person he was? 886 00:35:38,701 --> 00:35:41,965 - I think Leoni was very much a man of his time. 887 00:35:42,009 --> 00:35:44,142 He had fought in the first world war. 888 00:35:44,185 --> 00:35:46,361 - Yes, that's right. - In the Italian army, 889 00:35:46,405 --> 00:35:49,451 and he was very much a patriot. 890 00:35:49,495 --> 00:35:51,627 - Mm-hmm. - I do believe 891 00:35:51,671 --> 00:35:54,543 he was certainly a supporter of fascism. 892 00:35:54,587 --> 00:35:56,937 [ominous music] 893 00:35:56,980 --> 00:35:59,592 - Just as Leoni had managed to convince Londoners 894 00:35:59,635 --> 00:36:02,595 to eat Italian food, history got in the way. 895 00:36:02,638 --> 00:36:05,075 ♪ 896 00:36:05,119 --> 00:36:06,642 A dangerous wave of nationalism 897 00:36:06,686 --> 00:36:08,209 was gripping Italy. 898 00:36:08,253 --> 00:36:10,168 Led by Benito Mussolini, 899 00:36:10,211 --> 00:36:12,909 the fascists weaponized Italian food, 900 00:36:12,953 --> 00:36:15,825 and in 1937, established a headquarters here 901 00:36:15,869 --> 00:36:17,827 in the heart of Little Italy, 902 00:36:17,871 --> 00:36:22,092 to advocate for the supremacy of their own cuisine. 903 00:36:22,136 --> 00:36:24,878 - Italians are now, for the first time, our enemies. 904 00:36:24,921 --> 00:36:27,010 And in Soho, friendly little restaurants 905 00:36:27,054 --> 00:36:29,361 decide to remove evidence of their nationality. 906 00:36:29,404 --> 00:36:31,537 Down come the Italian signs. 907 00:36:31,580 --> 00:36:33,756 - When Italy declared war on Britain, 908 00:36:33,800 --> 00:36:35,323 Leoni was arrested. 909 00:36:35,367 --> 00:36:37,107 But he wasn't the only one. 910 00:36:37,151 --> 00:36:40,198 Every single Italian male over the age of 16 911 00:36:40,241 --> 00:36:44,158 was rounded up and interned in camps outside of London. 912 00:36:47,292 --> 00:36:50,599 When the war ended, some Italians returned to Soho 913 00:36:50,643 --> 00:36:52,906 and went back to doing what they did best. 914 00:36:52,949 --> 00:36:55,474 [speaks Italian] - [speaks Italian] 915 00:36:55,517 --> 00:36:58,477 - Decades later, the food that was once reviled, 916 00:36:58,520 --> 00:37:01,523 is now adored as Londoners have embraced something 917 00:37:01,567 --> 00:37:04,570 that is quintessentially Italian. 918 00:37:06,049 --> 00:37:08,748 Who could've imagined that this little cup of espresso... 919 00:37:08,791 --> 00:37:11,054 Grazie. Would become a symbol 920 00:37:11,098 --> 00:37:14,667 of Italian glamor and the taste of la dulce vida 921 00:37:14,710 --> 00:37:16,277 all over the world? 922 00:37:16,321 --> 00:37:19,280 [jazz music] 923 00:37:19,324 --> 00:37:20,238 ♪ 924 00:37:23,328 --> 00:37:26,287 [jazz music] 925 00:37:26,331 --> 00:37:29,203 ♪ 926 00:37:29,247 --> 00:37:31,510 - I'm heading west out of the center of London 927 00:37:31,553 --> 00:37:35,601 on the trail of a revolution in Italian food. 928 00:37:35,644 --> 00:37:37,167 So much Italian cooking in the city 929 00:37:37,211 --> 00:37:39,169 celebrates authentic ingredients 930 00:37:39,213 --> 00:37:40,954 imported from Italy. 931 00:37:40,997 --> 00:37:43,086 But here, in the suburb of Acton, 932 00:37:43,130 --> 00:37:44,958 a famous Italian product 933 00:37:45,001 --> 00:37:48,440 is being taken in a totally new direction. 934 00:37:48,483 --> 00:37:52,835 Acton, the mozzarella capital of London. 935 00:37:52,879 --> 00:37:54,315 Who knew? 936 00:37:54,359 --> 00:37:56,143 ♪ 937 00:37:56,186 --> 00:37:58,493 I've come to La Latteria... 938 00:37:58,537 --> 00:37:59,538 Thank you, sir. 939 00:37:59,581 --> 00:38:01,714 A dairy dedicated to the craft 940 00:38:01,757 --> 00:38:03,716 of traditional Italian cheese-making. 941 00:38:03,759 --> 00:38:06,066 ♪ 942 00:38:06,109 --> 00:38:08,721 The brains behind this mozzarella super lab 943 00:38:08,764 --> 00:38:11,854 is former investment banker, Simona de Vietri. 944 00:38:11,898 --> 00:38:13,769 So what are you doing here? 945 00:38:13,813 --> 00:38:17,860 - Mozzarella, what else? [chuckles] 946 00:38:17,904 --> 00:38:21,429 - Why are you making mozzarella in Acton? 947 00:38:21,473 --> 00:38:24,084 - Well, it started with me leaving Italy 20 years ago. 948 00:38:24,127 --> 00:38:25,477 - Yeah? - And my parents, 949 00:38:25,520 --> 00:38:27,348 every time they were coming to see me, 950 00:38:27,392 --> 00:38:29,916 the first thing they would pack was mozzarella. 951 00:38:29,959 --> 00:38:33,354 That was my only time when I used to have mozzarella. 952 00:38:33,398 --> 00:38:35,791 - Leaving her well-paid job in finance, 953 00:38:35,835 --> 00:38:38,794 Simona spent a year searching the world for the perfect milk 954 00:38:38,838 --> 00:38:40,622 to make mozzarella. 955 00:38:40,666 --> 00:38:42,189 But she soon came to realize 956 00:38:42,232 --> 00:38:44,887 that rather than importing ingredients, 957 00:38:44,931 --> 00:38:48,500 she could take a local product and transform it. 958 00:38:48,543 --> 00:38:50,763 All the milk you use is British milk? 959 00:38:50,806 --> 00:38:52,068 - British. - And you like 960 00:38:52,112 --> 00:38:53,679 the British milk? - I love the British milk. 961 00:38:53,722 --> 00:38:55,333 - Why do you like it? 962 00:38:55,376 --> 00:38:59,554 - Because the flavor is slightly richer. 963 00:38:59,598 --> 00:39:00,773 Reason is the grass. 964 00:39:04,385 --> 00:39:07,301 Makes also difference on the color of the milk. 965 00:39:07,345 --> 00:39:09,172 Here is more yellowish. - It is yellow, yeah. 966 00:39:09,216 --> 00:39:10,391 - You see? Did you notice? 967 00:39:10,435 --> 00:39:12,262 - Yeah, this is completely different 968 00:39:12,306 --> 00:39:14,134 than what I saw in Italy. 969 00:39:14,177 --> 00:39:17,355 - The animal eats and then goes straight into the milk. 970 00:39:17,398 --> 00:39:20,053 - Yeah. 971 00:39:20,096 --> 00:39:24,579 The magic of mozzarella begins when rennet is added to milk 972 00:39:24,623 --> 00:39:26,668 to separate the curds and whey. 973 00:39:41,814 --> 00:39:42,858 - Yeah, it's incredible. - Which you can see-- 974 00:39:42,902 --> 00:39:45,600 - It's like a magician. - Exact. 975 00:39:45,644 --> 00:39:48,560 You try this. - Like a pork pie. 976 00:39:48,603 --> 00:39:49,822 - Like a cake. - Like a cake. 977 00:39:49,865 --> 00:39:51,040 - Look at that. - Yeah. 978 00:39:51,084 --> 00:39:52,172 - Look at all the milk. - Look at that-- 979 00:39:52,215 --> 00:39:53,391 oh I know. Look at it comin' out. 980 00:39:57,830 --> 00:39:59,745 - It's still warm. 981 00:39:59,788 --> 00:40:01,007 - I love that. 982 00:40:01,050 --> 00:40:07,666 ♪ 983 00:40:07,709 --> 00:40:11,409 And it's so comforting. The warmth of it and the-- 984 00:40:11,452 --> 00:40:13,149 everything about it. 985 00:40:13,193 --> 00:40:14,455 Oh, it's so good. 986 00:40:14,499 --> 00:40:17,023 ♪ 987 00:40:17,066 --> 00:40:19,808 Even more wonderful than Simona's mozzarella 988 00:40:19,852 --> 00:40:21,375 is another cheese her team makes 989 00:40:21,419 --> 00:40:24,465 using her mozzarella. 990 00:40:24,509 --> 00:40:26,467 It looks almost identical. 991 00:40:26,511 --> 00:40:29,862 But it's a ball of deliciousness called burrata 992 00:40:29,905 --> 00:40:32,734 from "burro," Italian for "butter." 993 00:40:32,778 --> 00:40:34,083 - So I show you the burratas. 994 00:40:34,127 --> 00:40:35,694 - Oh, yeah. - It's flat. 995 00:40:35,737 --> 00:40:37,783 - That literally looks like a thing of pasta, 996 00:40:37,826 --> 00:40:39,088 like lasagna. 997 00:40:39,132 --> 00:40:41,134 - So then, look what he does now. 998 00:40:41,177 --> 00:40:43,789 He goes from the middle, and he's gonna shred it 999 00:40:43,832 --> 00:40:45,530 into lines of mozzarella. 1000 00:40:45,573 --> 00:40:46,835 - Stracciatella. 1001 00:40:47,749 --> 00:40:50,796 You mix the Stracciatella with the cream and salt. 1002 00:40:50,839 --> 00:40:53,189 Now, this is the filling of your burrata. 1003 00:40:53,233 --> 00:40:54,234 - Right. - Can you see 1004 00:40:54,277 --> 00:40:55,496 he's making a pouch? 1005 00:40:55,540 --> 00:40:57,498 And then put the Stracciatella. 1006 00:40:57,542 --> 00:40:59,544 - So that's what burrata is? - That's what it is. 1007 00:40:59,587 --> 00:41:02,111 Ta-da! [chuckles] 1008 00:41:02,155 --> 00:41:03,765 - So simple. - Very simple. 1009 00:41:03,809 --> 00:41:07,029 - I mean, in theory. [chuckles] 1010 00:41:07,073 --> 00:41:09,728 [upbeat music] 1011 00:41:09,771 --> 00:41:12,252 It's taken time to win Londoners over. 1012 00:41:12,295 --> 00:41:14,863 Many chefs initially refused to work with a mozzarella 1013 00:41:14,907 --> 00:41:17,257 that wasn't made in southern Italy. 1014 00:41:17,300 --> 00:41:20,303 But today, Simona's burrata is earning its place 1015 00:41:20,347 --> 00:41:22,915 on the menus of some of the city's top restaurants. 1016 00:41:22,958 --> 00:41:24,786 - Burrata? - Thank you so much. 1017 00:41:24,830 --> 00:41:26,048 - Now, enjoy. - Thanks a lot. 1018 00:41:26,092 --> 00:41:27,049 Thank you. 1019 00:41:27,093 --> 00:41:29,051 ♪ 1020 00:41:29,095 --> 00:41:31,010 Ooh, wow. Look at that. 1021 00:41:31,053 --> 00:41:32,838 Oh! Come on. 1022 00:41:32,881 --> 00:41:36,885 ♪ 1023 00:41:36,929 --> 00:41:38,931 Well... 1024 00:41:38,974 --> 00:41:40,541 She was right. 1025 00:41:40,585 --> 00:41:42,630 That's really good. 1026 00:41:42,674 --> 00:41:43,892 Oh. 1027 00:41:43,936 --> 00:41:45,590 Food has always been 1028 00:41:45,633 --> 00:41:48,549 an immigrant's strongest link to home. 1029 00:41:48,593 --> 00:41:51,421 For over a century, it's how Italian immigrants 1030 00:41:51,465 --> 00:41:54,773 have defined who they are, and where they come from. 1031 00:41:54,816 --> 00:41:58,472 But enclosed within this little mother of pearl cheese, 1032 00:41:58,516 --> 00:42:01,997 is perhaps the future of Italian gastronomy. 1033 00:42:02,041 --> 00:42:03,259 That's really delicious. 1034 00:42:03,303 --> 00:42:10,005 ♪