1 00:00:07,050 --> 00:00:10,053 - If you strap on your skis in the Alps 2 00:00:10,097 --> 00:00:11,837 and head straight down the mountains, 3 00:00:11,881 --> 00:00:15,928 you'll find yourself in the fertile plains of Piedmont. 4 00:00:15,972 --> 00:00:19,062 This region, tucked into the northern corner of Italy, 5 00:00:19,106 --> 00:00:21,630 is a wonder offering up some of the best produce 6 00:00:21,673 --> 00:00:23,023 in the world, 7 00:00:23,066 --> 00:00:25,242 from exquisite white truffles 8 00:00:25,286 --> 00:00:26,809 to rice for risotto 9 00:00:26,852 --> 00:00:28,854 and the finest wines. 10 00:00:28,898 --> 00:00:31,379 - It's incredible how, really, Barolo, um, 11 00:00:31,422 --> 00:00:32,728 you put it in a glass 12 00:00:32,771 --> 00:00:35,165 and in ten minutes, it's changed completely. 13 00:00:35,209 --> 00:00:38,473 - The people here are fueled by passion and ambition. 14 00:00:38,516 --> 00:00:40,953 - [speaks Italian] 15 00:00:40,997 --> 00:00:42,433 - They just don't like to shout it up. 16 00:00:42,477 --> 00:00:44,131 Oh, my God. 17 00:00:44,174 --> 00:00:45,958 I'm Stanley Tucci. 18 00:00:46,002 --> 00:00:48,613 I'm Italian on both sides, and I'm traveling across Italy 19 00:00:48,657 --> 00:00:51,790 to discover how the food in each of this country's 20 00:00:51,834 --> 00:00:56,012 20 regions is as unique as the people and their past. 21 00:00:56,056 --> 00:00:58,101 - [speaking Italian] 22 00:00:58,145 --> 00:01:00,712 - It resurrects a dead person. 23 00:01:00,756 --> 00:01:03,324 Piedmont's a place that's always innovative. 24 00:01:03,367 --> 00:01:05,369 - You have to be a little bit crazy. 25 00:01:05,413 --> 00:01:07,067 Yes. 26 00:01:07,110 --> 00:01:09,504 - Here, you have to expect the unexpected... 27 00:01:09,547 --> 00:01:11,636 [people screaming] 28 00:01:11,680 --> 00:01:13,899 And come at things a little differently 29 00:01:13,943 --> 00:01:15,771 to unearth its real treasures. 30 00:01:15,814 --> 00:01:18,687 - [speaking Italian] 31 00:01:18,730 --> 00:01:20,776 - [speaking Italian] - [laughs] 32 00:01:21,864 --> 00:01:23,039 - [laughs] 33 00:01:23,083 --> 00:01:25,998 [lively music] 34 00:01:26,042 --> 00:01:32,962 ♪ 35 00:01:35,356 --> 00:01:37,967 - Italy has a reputation for coffee. 36 00:01:38,010 --> 00:01:41,318 But it's taken to another level in Turin. 37 00:01:41,362 --> 00:01:43,320 Its graceful squares and elegant buildings 38 00:01:43,364 --> 00:01:45,714 are the perfect setting to linger over something potent 39 00:01:45,757 --> 00:01:47,498 and warming. 40 00:01:47,542 --> 00:01:50,849 If you squint, you can even imagine yourself in Paris, 41 00:01:50,893 --> 00:01:53,069 and that's no accident. 42 00:01:53,113 --> 00:01:55,376 Turin is the capital of Piedmont-- 43 00:01:55,419 --> 00:01:57,943 a region in the extreme northwest of Italy, 44 00:01:57,987 --> 00:02:00,207 directly on the border with France. 45 00:02:00,250 --> 00:02:03,384 Having such a larger-than-life neighbor has left its mark. 46 00:02:03,427 --> 00:02:07,562 French ideas, customs, and food are everywhere. 47 00:02:07,605 --> 00:02:10,391 - [speaks Italian] - Oh, buongiorno. 48 00:02:10,434 --> 00:02:13,785 But if there's a drink that sums it up, it's this: 49 00:02:13,829 --> 00:02:18,486 Bicerin, a potion that's been all the rage since the 1760's. 50 00:02:18,529 --> 00:02:20,836 Can I put my spoon in it? 51 00:02:20,879 --> 00:02:22,881 I know that sounds like a naughty question. 52 00:02:27,582 --> 00:02:30,498 ♪ 53 00:02:30,541 --> 00:02:32,326 That's really good. 54 00:02:32,369 --> 00:02:36,417 It's in three layers: coffee, chocolate, cream-- 55 00:02:36,460 --> 00:02:39,550 different temperatures. 56 00:02:39,594 --> 00:02:42,162 The French may have introduced chocolate to Turin, 57 00:02:42,205 --> 00:02:44,555 but only Italians could have come up with a way 58 00:02:44,599 --> 00:02:47,167 to suspend three ingredients like this. 59 00:02:50,735 --> 00:02:53,260 - Bicerin packs a powerful punch-- 60 00:02:53,303 --> 00:02:56,176 just the stuff to fuel revolutions. 61 00:02:56,219 --> 00:02:59,570 One of its greatest fans was a 19th-century Turin aristocrat 62 00:02:59,614 --> 00:03:00,702 with a big idea. 63 00:03:00,745 --> 00:03:04,401 ♪ 64 00:03:04,445 --> 00:03:07,578 Food writer and local historian Paolo Vizzari, 65 00:03:07,622 --> 00:03:09,450 has agreed to fill me in on the details. 66 00:03:09,493 --> 00:03:10,581 - [speaks Italian] 67 00:03:10,625 --> 00:03:11,626 So good to see you. 68 00:03:11,669 --> 00:03:13,236 - [speaks Italian] 69 00:03:13,280 --> 00:03:15,020 Well, we got a nice day for it. 70 00:03:15,064 --> 00:03:17,675 So tell me about that guy. 71 00:03:17,719 --> 00:03:20,504 - Camillo Benso, conte di Cavour. 72 00:03:20,548 --> 00:03:24,465 He was the politician behind the Italian unification. 73 00:03:24,508 --> 00:03:25,988 - Before unification, 74 00:03:26,031 --> 00:03:28,860 modern Italy as we know it didn't exist. 75 00:03:28,904 --> 00:03:32,429 Instead, it was a patchwork of dukedoms and kingdoms-- 76 00:03:32,473 --> 00:03:34,431 the Spanish controlling the south, 77 00:03:34,475 --> 00:03:36,912 and the Austrians, the northeast. 78 00:03:36,955 --> 00:03:39,306 The Kingdom of Sardinia, that ruled Piedmont, 79 00:03:39,349 --> 00:03:41,525 led the fight to throw out the foreign powers 80 00:03:41,569 --> 00:03:44,528 and build an Italy run by Italians. 81 00:03:44,572 --> 00:03:46,008 What year is this now? 82 00:03:46,051 --> 00:03:47,575 - 1861. - '61. 83 00:03:47,618 --> 00:03:51,318 And Turin then becomes its first capital 84 00:03:51,361 --> 00:03:54,146 for like...a minute and a half or something, right? 85 00:03:54,190 --> 00:03:55,278 - Yeah, something like that. 86 00:03:55,322 --> 00:03:57,672 But we still have a huge history, 87 00:03:57,715 --> 00:04:00,892 especially in the feeding of people. 88 00:04:00,936 --> 00:04:03,547 - Turin may have lost out to Rome in the long run, 89 00:04:03,591 --> 00:04:05,288 but during its time as the capital, 90 00:04:05,332 --> 00:04:07,377 Italy became a modern democratic nation 91 00:04:07,421 --> 00:04:09,249 for the first time in history. 92 00:04:10,859 --> 00:04:14,515 - This used to be the very first Italian parliament. 93 00:04:14,558 --> 00:04:16,995 - And Cavour, Italy's first prime minister, 94 00:04:17,039 --> 00:04:19,302 had good reason for choosing this location 95 00:04:19,346 --> 00:04:21,217 for the center of government. 96 00:04:21,261 --> 00:04:23,088 - In front of the parliament, 97 00:04:23,132 --> 00:04:25,265 Cavour had his favorite restaurant. 98 00:04:25,308 --> 00:04:28,442 Look at the distance. [both chuckle] 99 00:04:28,485 --> 00:04:30,531 - That's no more than 30 yards. 100 00:04:30,574 --> 00:04:32,533 I see we have the same priorities. 101 00:04:32,576 --> 00:04:34,186 Ristorante del Cambio 102 00:04:34,230 --> 00:04:37,668 first began serving Turin's elite back in 1757, 103 00:04:37,712 --> 00:04:41,106 and its doors have been open ever since. 104 00:04:41,150 --> 00:04:42,499 Let's see--no, it's locked! 105 00:04:42,543 --> 00:04:44,109 - [laughs] - Oh, well. 106 00:04:44,153 --> 00:04:46,111 We'll have to get some pizza. 107 00:04:46,155 --> 00:04:48,766 Actually, there's a wonderful Chinese restaurant 108 00:04:48,810 --> 00:04:50,464 around the corner there. - [laughs] 109 00:04:50,507 --> 00:04:52,335 ♪ 110 00:04:52,379 --> 00:04:54,206 - Luckily, the staff take pity on us, 111 00:04:54,250 --> 00:04:56,948 and we get in before the lunch rush. 112 00:04:56,992 --> 00:04:59,081 Welcome to Versailles. - [laughs] 113 00:04:59,124 --> 00:05:00,648 - It's a time warp, isn't it? 114 00:05:00,691 --> 00:05:03,520 - And this is Cavour's table. 115 00:05:03,564 --> 00:05:06,915 Every day, he used to have lunch in that seat, 116 00:05:06,958 --> 00:05:09,831 and from there, he could see if his assistant was waving 117 00:05:09,874 --> 00:05:11,920 his handkerchief from the balcony, 118 00:05:11,963 --> 00:05:13,704 which was the signal that he had to go back to the office. 119 00:05:13,748 --> 00:05:15,924 - And he had to go back, 'cause he would just stay here. 120 00:05:15,967 --> 00:05:17,404 - Yeah, yeah, for hours. 121 00:05:17,447 --> 00:05:19,667 - My agent does that. - [laughs] 122 00:05:19,710 --> 00:05:22,278 ♪ 123 00:05:22,322 --> 00:05:24,062 - Here, tradition is everything. 124 00:05:24,106 --> 00:05:27,370 But Del Cambio's head chef, Matteo Baronetto, 125 00:05:27,414 --> 00:05:28,937 has made it his mission to drag 126 00:05:28,980 --> 00:05:31,679 this historical landmark into the 21st century 127 00:05:31,722 --> 00:05:33,550 while still preserving the essence 128 00:05:33,594 --> 00:05:36,074 of what makes the restaurant unique. 129 00:05:36,118 --> 00:05:36,988 Matteo. - How are you? 130 00:05:37,032 --> 00:05:38,120 - Stanley. 131 00:05:38,163 --> 00:05:39,817 It's a high-wire balancing act 132 00:05:39,861 --> 00:05:41,993 that's earned him a Michelin star. 133 00:05:42,037 --> 00:05:44,909 [both speaking Italian] 134 00:05:59,359 --> 00:06:01,709 - Matteo's not your typical chef. 135 00:06:01,752 --> 00:06:03,450 - I can--I can see that, yes. 136 00:06:15,331 --> 00:06:17,464 Okay, enjoy. 137 00:06:17,507 --> 00:06:20,467 - Foie gras is served with a typically Italian vegetable, 138 00:06:20,510 --> 00:06:23,383 cavolo nero--black kale. 139 00:06:23,426 --> 00:06:24,775 Wow. 140 00:06:24,819 --> 00:06:27,299 I don't have anything to say. 141 00:06:27,343 --> 00:06:30,302 It's incredible. It's an amazing mix of flavors. 142 00:06:30,346 --> 00:06:31,956 The acidity, the sweetness... 143 00:06:32,000 --> 00:06:33,915 - Yeah, I think it's a good symbol for Turino 144 00:06:33,958 --> 00:06:37,614 because it's super French in the base, but then-- 145 00:06:37,658 --> 00:06:39,486 - But then it becomes Italian. 146 00:06:41,226 --> 00:06:44,186 Matteo's unique take on Piedmontese cuisine 147 00:06:44,229 --> 00:06:46,449 pulls in Turin's chic crowd. 148 00:06:46,493 --> 00:06:48,625 In the 19th century, Cavour was a fan 149 00:06:48,669 --> 00:06:50,714 of aristocratic French food. 150 00:06:50,758 --> 00:06:54,588 But he also loved more homey, regional dishes. 151 00:06:54,631 --> 00:06:57,591 His favorite was a Piedmontese classic: 152 00:06:57,634 --> 00:07:02,117 finanziera, a stew made from the cheaper parts of animals. 153 00:07:02,160 --> 00:07:05,033 - [speaking Italian] 154 00:07:10,386 --> 00:07:11,648 Brain. - Veal brain. 155 00:07:16,566 --> 00:07:17,959 - So the tes--like testes. - Balls. 156 00:07:18,002 --> 00:07:20,483 - Yeah, the balls. - All right. 157 00:07:20,527 --> 00:07:22,137 - [speaking Italian] 158 00:07:22,180 --> 00:07:24,052 And in the middle of-- - Of the spine. 159 00:07:24,095 --> 00:07:25,706 - The spine, yeah. - Ah. 160 00:07:30,101 --> 00:07:31,755 - Offals, besides foie gras, 161 00:07:31,799 --> 00:07:33,931 were not that used in the noble food. 162 00:07:33,975 --> 00:07:36,630 So this used to be more regional food 163 00:07:36,673 --> 00:07:38,414 than workers' food. - Peasant food. 164 00:07:38,458 --> 00:07:40,416 - Peasant food. 165 00:07:40,460 --> 00:07:42,418 - Finanziera is so associated 166 00:07:42,462 --> 00:07:44,725 with Cavour and this restaurant, that Matteo 167 00:07:44,768 --> 00:07:46,466 can't take it off the menu. 168 00:07:53,298 --> 00:07:54,735 - It's almost a rough ragu. 169 00:08:06,355 --> 00:08:07,791 - That's it? - It's like the opposite 170 00:08:07,835 --> 00:08:09,750 of what people try to do, no? 171 00:08:09,793 --> 00:08:11,969 They try to... both: Hide it. 172 00:08:12,013 --> 00:08:15,059 - We must do taste. - Yeah, let's go. 173 00:08:15,103 --> 00:08:17,845 - First up: the traditional finanziera. 174 00:08:17,888 --> 00:08:20,412 ♪ 175 00:08:20,456 --> 00:08:22,589 This is really delicious... 176 00:08:22,632 --> 00:08:24,242 and delicate... 177 00:08:24,286 --> 00:08:25,896 'cause you think it's not gonna be delicate. 178 00:08:25,940 --> 00:08:28,420 - That's also why Cavour loved these kind of dishes, 179 00:08:28,464 --> 00:08:31,772 because he was grown up with French palate, 180 00:08:31,815 --> 00:08:34,209 but in the end, he could recognize how delicate it was. 181 00:08:34,252 --> 00:08:35,819 - Yeah. 182 00:08:35,863 --> 00:08:37,952 Now: Matteo's reinvention. 183 00:08:44,611 --> 00:08:47,352 Dip in the sauce and you taste. - Okay. 184 00:08:49,398 --> 00:08:50,312 Mmm. 185 00:08:52,096 --> 00:08:55,273 I was afraid of the testicles. 186 00:08:55,317 --> 00:08:56,927 But I'm not, no. - They're good in there, huh? 187 00:08:56,971 --> 00:08:58,973 - They're absolutely delicious. 188 00:08:59,016 --> 00:09:01,323 I have to say, I love offal. 189 00:09:01,366 --> 00:09:03,804 I do. But even--even I 190 00:09:03,847 --> 00:09:05,588 was a little, like-- 191 00:09:05,632 --> 00:09:08,373 but it is really, really delicious. 192 00:09:08,417 --> 00:09:09,636 That kidney? - Yeah. 193 00:09:11,463 --> 00:09:13,030 - I love it. - Like a cherry on the cake. 194 00:09:13,074 --> 00:09:15,163 - Oh, my God, I love it. - [laughs] 195 00:09:15,206 --> 00:09:17,513 - In these dishes that Cavour loved, 196 00:09:17,557 --> 00:09:20,255 we find the contradictions of Italy's birth. 197 00:09:20,298 --> 00:09:22,649 Cavour thought French and ate French. 198 00:09:22,692 --> 00:09:25,260 But he also believed in Piedmont and Italy, 199 00:09:25,303 --> 00:09:27,958 and he loved the regional food. 200 00:09:28,002 --> 00:09:29,569 You're amazing. 201 00:09:29,612 --> 00:09:30,700 Amazing. Thank you so much. 202 00:09:30,744 --> 00:09:31,571 You're incredible. - Grazie. 203 00:09:36,663 --> 00:09:40,318 [jazz music] 204 00:09:40,362 --> 00:09:42,799 - Piedmont has many firsts to its name. 205 00:09:42,843 --> 00:09:44,975 It's the birthplace of modern Italy, 206 00:09:45,019 --> 00:09:47,848 and Turin was its first capital. 207 00:09:47,891 --> 00:09:50,677 But now, I'm going to explore another first-- 208 00:09:50,720 --> 00:09:52,635 a food first. 209 00:09:52,679 --> 00:09:54,594 So I'm heading to the 210 00:09:54,637 --> 00:09:56,639 University of Gastronomic Sciences, 211 00:09:56,683 --> 00:10:00,077 which is run by the slow food movement. 212 00:10:00,121 --> 00:10:04,691 The genesis of the slow food movement was when they opened 213 00:10:04,734 --> 00:10:11,654 a McDonald's at the Spanish Steps in Rome in the 1980s, 214 00:10:11,698 --> 00:10:14,004 and a group of people protested, and that was 215 00:10:14,048 --> 00:10:15,615 the beginning of the movement. 216 00:10:15,658 --> 00:10:19,444 It has, without question, significantly changed 217 00:10:19,488 --> 00:10:23,797 the world of food as we know it. 218 00:10:23,840 --> 00:10:26,234 The campus is an hour south of Turin 219 00:10:26,277 --> 00:10:28,149 in the small town of Pollenzo. 220 00:10:28,192 --> 00:10:31,021 And when I say small, I mean...small. 221 00:10:31,065 --> 00:10:33,545 Like, tiny. 222 00:10:33,589 --> 00:10:35,983 [stammers] Could we go on smaller streets? 223 00:10:36,026 --> 00:10:38,376 [car beeping] 224 00:10:38,420 --> 00:10:41,423 [snickering] 225 00:10:41,466 --> 00:10:43,555 It's like a test. 226 00:10:43,599 --> 00:10:45,166 What an amazing spot. 227 00:10:45,209 --> 00:10:47,559 ♪ 228 00:10:47,603 --> 00:10:50,519 - This is clearly not your average college campus. 229 00:10:50,562 --> 00:10:53,870 Students here get to study in a 19th-century Gothic palace, 230 00:10:53,914 --> 00:10:57,047 originally built for Piedmont's royal family. 231 00:10:57,091 --> 00:10:58,005 All right, let's go. 232 00:10:58,048 --> 00:11:03,053 ♪ 233 00:11:03,097 --> 00:11:05,839 [both speaking Italian] 234 00:11:05,882 --> 00:11:09,190 - I'm meeting Carlo Petrini, the founder of the university 235 00:11:09,233 --> 00:11:12,541 and creator of the slow food movement. 236 00:11:12,584 --> 00:11:14,891 You might say a real-life caped crusader. 237 00:12:03,026 --> 00:12:05,420 ♪ 238 00:12:05,463 --> 00:12:07,944 - Slow food's mission is to fight against bland, 239 00:12:07,988 --> 00:12:10,164 industrialized food. 240 00:12:10,207 --> 00:12:13,123 The university teaches the value of regional specialties 241 00:12:13,167 --> 00:12:16,823 from olive oil to wine. 242 00:12:16,866 --> 00:12:21,088 It's all about savoring food, drink, company, 243 00:12:21,131 --> 00:12:24,439 the wonderful ritual of eating. 244 00:12:24,482 --> 00:12:26,136 I've come back to Turin to see 245 00:12:26,180 --> 00:12:28,530 slow food's philosophy in action 246 00:12:28,573 --> 00:12:30,706 and understand the movement's wider impact 247 00:12:30,750 --> 00:12:32,099 across this region and beyond. 248 00:12:32,142 --> 00:12:33,404 - Hi. - Hi. 249 00:12:33,448 --> 00:12:34,754 - Nice to meet you. - Nice to meet-- 250 00:12:34,797 --> 00:12:36,364 - I'm Carlo. Welcome to Piola Da Celso. 251 00:12:36,407 --> 00:12:37,800 - Grazie.Hello. 252 00:12:37,844 --> 00:12:38,975 - Elizabeta. - Elizabeta. 253 00:12:39,019 --> 00:12:41,673 - Elizabeta. 254 00:12:41,717 --> 00:12:44,676 - Piola Da Celso is a family-run business. 255 00:12:44,720 --> 00:12:46,330 - Elizabeta does the cooking 256 00:12:46,374 --> 00:12:48,245 and her son, Carlo, serves the customers. 257 00:12:50,160 --> 00:12:53,250 Today, Elizabeta is making a Piedmontese specialty: 258 00:12:53,294 --> 00:12:56,776 bagna càuda, a warm sauce made from anchovies and garlic 259 00:12:56,819 --> 00:12:58,865 that you dip vegetables into. 260 00:12:58,908 --> 00:13:01,650 It's a dish that a few years ago was in danger 261 00:13:01,693 --> 00:13:03,783 of disappearing from restaurants. 262 00:13:03,826 --> 00:13:05,654 - Bagna càuda is a traditional dish, 263 00:13:05,697 --> 00:13:08,962 and not everyone wants to eat something 264 00:13:09,005 --> 00:13:10,572 that is very traditional. - Yeah. 265 00:13:10,615 --> 00:13:13,183 Is that because of the slow food movement? 266 00:13:13,227 --> 00:13:16,012 - Yes it is. - [speaking Italian] 267 00:13:22,192 --> 00:13:24,281 - I've been told Elizabeta's bagna càuda 268 00:13:24,325 --> 00:13:26,109 is the best in town. 269 00:13:26,153 --> 00:13:28,590 Where did bagna càuda come from? 270 00:13:28,633 --> 00:13:31,680 - It was for poor people, because anchovies with salt 271 00:13:31,723 --> 00:13:32,942 were very, very cheap. 272 00:13:32,986 --> 00:13:34,944 - And it gives an incredible flavor too. 273 00:13:34,988 --> 00:13:37,033 - I mean-- - Incredible flavor 274 00:13:37,077 --> 00:13:39,383 and incredible breath. - Bad breath? 275 00:13:39,427 --> 00:13:40,558 - Oh, yes. - Does it? 276 00:13:40,602 --> 00:13:41,995 - Yes--the garlic kills 277 00:13:42,038 --> 00:13:44,954 almost everyone you can have in front of you. 278 00:13:44,998 --> 00:13:46,216 - [laughing] 279 00:13:46,260 --> 00:13:48,479 ♪ 280 00:13:48,523 --> 00:13:50,220 Well, it wouldn't be the first time I've ended up 281 00:13:50,264 --> 00:13:51,874 reeking of garlic. 282 00:13:51,918 --> 00:13:53,354 The crew will just have to put up with it. 283 00:13:55,922 --> 00:13:56,923 - Si, si, si. 284 00:13:56,966 --> 00:14:00,100 ♪ 285 00:14:18,205 --> 00:14:21,121 - There are a lot of anchovies. - I noticed. 286 00:14:21,164 --> 00:14:22,818 I don't think there are anymore left in the ocean. 287 00:14:22,862 --> 00:14:23,775 - [laughs] 288 00:14:28,563 --> 00:14:29,956 - It's very particular dish. 289 00:14:29,999 --> 00:14:32,741 You can find it only in Piedmont. 290 00:14:32,784 --> 00:14:34,395 - Yeah. - And not in every restaurant. 291 00:14:34,438 --> 00:14:35,265 It's very rare. - Yeah. 292 00:14:37,311 --> 00:14:38,660 - Sorry. Sorry. 293 00:14:38,703 --> 00:14:41,315 - [speaking Italian] 294 00:14:44,622 --> 00:14:47,321 - It resurrects a dead person. 295 00:14:47,364 --> 00:14:49,584 - She want to know if you just said "to put some energy." 296 00:14:53,414 --> 00:14:54,806 - Finished? Oh, all right. 297 00:14:56,765 --> 00:15:00,116 Elizabeta cooks everything herself, fresh every day. 298 00:15:00,160 --> 00:15:01,944 But it seems embracing the traditional 299 00:15:01,988 --> 00:15:04,338 means doing without modern appliances. 300 00:15:10,431 --> 00:15:11,911 - Si. I would love it, actually. 301 00:15:16,524 --> 00:15:22,617 ♪ 302 00:15:30,407 --> 00:15:31,713 - My new favorite word. 303 00:15:36,457 --> 00:15:37,762 Mmm. 304 00:15:39,416 --> 00:15:40,983 - Oh, my God. - [laughs] 305 00:15:44,073 --> 00:15:45,205 - That is amazing. 306 00:15:46,423 --> 00:15:48,251 - Mm. [laughs] 307 00:15:48,295 --> 00:15:49,426 Si. 308 00:15:49,470 --> 00:15:51,124 Mmm. 309 00:15:51,167 --> 00:15:53,082 If I smell of garlic, I don't care. 310 00:15:53,126 --> 00:15:54,344 Well, I'm starving. 311 00:15:54,388 --> 00:15:56,825 Is the chef good? - Yes. 312 00:16:01,569 --> 00:16:04,137 - The classic, if slightly unusual combination 313 00:16:04,180 --> 00:16:06,530 of veal with a tuna and caper sauce. 314 00:16:06,574 --> 00:16:11,144 ♪ 315 00:16:11,187 --> 00:16:14,495 Meat-filled ravioli bathed in roasting juices 316 00:16:14,538 --> 00:16:15,713 called agnolotti. 317 00:16:18,629 --> 00:16:20,631 - Oh, my God. 318 00:16:20,675 --> 00:16:22,546 Wow. Wow. 319 00:16:22,590 --> 00:16:24,766 And finally, the local specialty: 320 00:16:24,809 --> 00:16:26,637 roasted shoulder of veal. 321 00:16:26,681 --> 00:16:30,728 - [speaking Italian] 322 00:16:30,772 --> 00:16:33,079 - It's like a 11 out of 10. 323 00:16:33,122 --> 00:16:34,732 - Oh! [laughs] 324 00:16:34,776 --> 00:16:37,561 ♪ 325 00:16:37,605 --> 00:16:39,737 It's so good. - You are very kind. 326 00:16:39,781 --> 00:16:43,611 - No, I'm not kind. Well, I'm not being kind. 327 00:16:43,654 --> 00:16:45,874 In Piedmont, traditional, regional food 328 00:16:45,917 --> 00:16:47,484 is very much alive and well. 329 00:16:49,051 --> 00:16:50,009 - She should be. 330 00:16:53,229 --> 00:16:55,797 - It's all about passion. - Yeah. 331 00:16:55,840 --> 00:16:56,754 - [speaks Italian] 332 00:16:56,798 --> 00:17:00,628 ♪ 333 00:17:03,109 --> 00:17:06,068 [jazz music] 334 00:17:06,112 --> 00:17:07,243 ♪ 335 00:17:07,287 --> 00:17:08,940 - What pizza is to Naples, 336 00:17:08,984 --> 00:17:12,031 risotto is to Piedmont. 337 00:17:12,074 --> 00:17:13,597 Half the rice grown in the country 338 00:17:13,641 --> 00:17:16,078 comes from this region. 339 00:17:16,122 --> 00:17:18,994 It thrives on flood plains in the Po River Valley, 340 00:17:19,038 --> 00:17:21,388 northeast of Turin, where its irrigated 341 00:17:21,431 --> 00:17:23,564 by melting glacier water from the Alps. 342 00:17:23,607 --> 00:17:26,436 ♪ 343 00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:29,439 The town of Vercelli is Italy's rice capital 344 00:17:29,483 --> 00:17:30,962 with the risotterie, 345 00:17:31,006 --> 00:17:34,183 places specializing in risotto, everywhere. 346 00:17:34,227 --> 00:17:37,186 But I've heard the best one is, rather surprisingly, 347 00:17:37,230 --> 00:17:39,667 hiding at the back of 1960s hotel. 348 00:17:39,710 --> 00:17:42,713 ♪ 349 00:17:42,757 --> 00:17:43,671 Oh, there it is. 350 00:17:46,021 --> 00:17:47,892 Unassuming is the word. 351 00:17:55,248 --> 00:17:56,423 [speaks Italian] 352 00:17:56,466 --> 00:17:57,946 - [speaks Italian] - Hi. 353 00:17:57,989 --> 00:17:59,078 - Buongiorno. - Buongiorno. 354 00:18:02,516 --> 00:18:03,430 Thank you. 355 00:18:05,562 --> 00:18:07,912 - Brothers Christian and Manuel Costardi 356 00:18:07,956 --> 00:18:09,740 pay homage to rice, 357 00:18:09,784 --> 00:18:11,916 serving it in modern, inventive ways 358 00:18:11,960 --> 00:18:16,660 to diners who travel the world to taste their risotto. 359 00:18:16,704 --> 00:18:18,314 - We start with the rice. 360 00:18:18,358 --> 00:18:19,750 - This is your rice. 361 00:18:19,794 --> 00:18:22,405 - Yeah, this is, like, a selection that we do 362 00:18:22,449 --> 00:18:27,802 with a farm close to Vercelli for the best rice for risotto. 363 00:18:27,845 --> 00:18:30,718 It is carnaroli, and we do the roasting of the rice. 364 00:18:30,761 --> 00:18:34,504 It's one of the most important procedure for the risotto. 365 00:18:34,548 --> 00:18:38,465 We add salt and pepper. 366 00:18:38,508 --> 00:18:40,293 - You're like toasting it almost, right? 367 00:18:40,336 --> 00:18:42,860 - Yes--the only time that you can 368 00:18:42,904 --> 00:18:44,514 give flavor to the rice. 369 00:18:44,558 --> 00:18:46,429 After, you give flavor to the risotto. 370 00:18:46,473 --> 00:18:48,562 We add vegetable stock. - Vegetable stock. Okay. 371 00:18:48,605 --> 00:18:50,694 - Yes. Onion, carrot, celery. 372 00:18:50,738 --> 00:18:51,782 - Yeah. 373 00:18:51,826 --> 00:18:52,957 The Costardi brothers 374 00:18:53,001 --> 00:18:54,394 celebrate the very best 375 00:18:54,437 --> 00:18:56,483 of Piedmont's local produce. 376 00:18:56,526 --> 00:18:58,485 Their signature dish is a risotto made 377 00:18:58,528 --> 00:19:01,183 with Lavazza coffee, a beer reduction, 378 00:19:01,227 --> 00:19:04,099 and grana padano cheese. 379 00:19:04,143 --> 00:19:07,494 - And the risotto we do now is a tribute to Italy. 380 00:19:07,537 --> 00:19:09,757 And what we want to do is to bring 381 00:19:09,800 --> 00:19:11,411 four of the most important regions 382 00:19:11,454 --> 00:19:13,195 of everything in the dish. 383 00:19:13,239 --> 00:19:14,849 - Are you both from this area? 384 00:19:14,892 --> 00:19:16,894 - Yeah. We are born in Vercelli. 385 00:19:16,938 --> 00:19:20,115 The hotel was built by our grandparents in 1967. 386 00:19:20,159 --> 00:19:22,813 In 2005, we decided to open our restaurant. 387 00:19:22,857 --> 00:19:25,425 - Right. - To try to do something new. 388 00:19:25,468 --> 00:19:27,253 We--our born idea, 389 00:19:27,296 --> 00:19:31,213 the idea to have 22 different risotto in the menu. 390 00:19:31,257 --> 00:19:32,954 - Christian and Manuel's restaurant 391 00:19:32,997 --> 00:19:36,349 is a million miles away from a traditional risotteria, 392 00:19:36,392 --> 00:19:39,787 which usually have only one or two classic cheese or mushroom 393 00:19:39,830 --> 00:19:41,615 risottos on the menu. 394 00:19:41,658 --> 00:19:44,095 The brothers' inventive approach has earned them 395 00:19:44,139 --> 00:19:46,489 a Michelin star. 396 00:19:46,533 --> 00:19:48,274 You are experimenting all the time. 397 00:19:48,317 --> 00:19:51,886 - Yes. We like to take inspiration 398 00:19:51,929 --> 00:19:53,627 from other penne in our life-- 399 00:19:53,670 --> 00:19:55,977 from music, from television, 400 00:19:56,020 --> 00:19:58,153 from cinema, from art, from everything. 401 00:19:58,197 --> 00:20:01,112 We'll never forget what we have outside our windows, 402 00:20:01,156 --> 00:20:05,160 what we have around us, and the rice, and the territory, 403 00:20:05,204 --> 00:20:07,162 and Piedmont is very important for us. 404 00:20:07,206 --> 00:20:09,295 For this risotto is grana padano cream. 405 00:20:09,338 --> 00:20:10,818 - Oh, nice. 406 00:20:10,861 --> 00:20:13,995 - And after, we have the powder of coffee. 407 00:20:14,038 --> 00:20:16,389 This is the coffee that arrived from Ethiopia. 408 00:20:16,432 --> 00:20:17,912 - Oh, yeah. Ooh, yeah. 409 00:20:17,955 --> 00:20:20,480 - The coffee idea arrived because I love the coffee. 410 00:20:20,523 --> 00:20:25,267 What we try with each dish that we produce is to broke 411 00:20:25,311 --> 00:20:26,964 what is in your mind normally. 412 00:20:29,967 --> 00:20:32,361 - Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. 413 00:20:32,405 --> 00:20:33,493 - Okay, this is unsalted water. 414 00:20:33,536 --> 00:20:34,798 - Unsalted. Okay. - Yeah. 415 00:20:34,842 --> 00:20:37,323 ♪ 416 00:20:37,366 --> 00:20:38,889 - Music. [laughs] 417 00:20:38,933 --> 00:20:40,326 - Yes. 418 00:20:40,369 --> 00:20:42,893 - You try? - Not like that. 419 00:20:42,937 --> 00:20:43,938 - It's not difficult. 420 00:20:46,027 --> 00:20:46,941 - It's not? 421 00:20:49,596 --> 00:20:52,120 No. Go. You do it. [laughs] 422 00:20:52,163 --> 00:20:55,297 ♪ 423 00:20:55,341 --> 00:20:57,125 That's so cool. 424 00:20:57,168 --> 00:21:00,128 - These tins are born in tribute to Andy Warhol. 425 00:21:00,171 --> 00:21:01,216 - Andy Warhol. both: Yes. 426 00:21:01,260 --> 00:21:02,565 - This is the reduction of beer. 427 00:21:02,609 --> 00:21:04,480 - Just beer? - We just used the sugar 428 00:21:04,524 --> 00:21:06,439 of the beer. - Hmm, it's like caramel. 429 00:21:06,482 --> 00:21:08,745 - Yes. - Yeah. 430 00:21:08,789 --> 00:21:10,312 - Bitter. - Whoa! 431 00:21:10,356 --> 00:21:13,272 - And when the mix from the beer, coffee, and cheese 432 00:21:13,315 --> 00:21:15,143 in the mouth, it's like fresh mushroom. 433 00:21:15,186 --> 00:21:18,407 ♪ 434 00:21:18,451 --> 00:21:20,322 - Now we add the grana padano cream on top. 435 00:21:24,021 --> 00:21:27,242 - This is completely changing everything 436 00:21:27,286 --> 00:21:28,765 I thought about risotto. 437 00:21:28,809 --> 00:21:32,291 - Coffee on top and beer at the end. 438 00:21:32,334 --> 00:21:34,162 - Kay. - What kind of spoon you want? 439 00:21:34,205 --> 00:21:35,076 - I'll take that one. - Okay. 440 00:21:35,119 --> 00:21:36,338 - Yeah. Thank you. 441 00:21:43,345 --> 00:21:45,129 That's a revelation. 442 00:21:45,173 --> 00:21:47,871 That's like 1,000 things... - Yes. 443 00:21:47,915 --> 00:21:49,220 - In one can. - Yes. 444 00:21:49,264 --> 00:21:50,526 - Wow. 445 00:21:50,570 --> 00:21:52,528 Also, the way you cook the risotto-- 446 00:21:52,572 --> 00:21:54,269 it's so nice and firm. 447 00:21:54,313 --> 00:21:56,315 - It's very important to have the flavor of the rice. 448 00:21:56,358 --> 00:21:59,666 You have to bite and understand what is inside. 449 00:21:59,709 --> 00:22:00,710 - That's unbelievable. 450 00:22:00,754 --> 00:22:01,842 You're not doing it in Milan. 451 00:22:01,885 --> 00:22:02,973 You're not doing it in Turin. 452 00:22:03,017 --> 00:22:04,366 You're not doing it in Florence. 453 00:22:04,410 --> 00:22:06,412 You're doing it here, where you grew up. 454 00:22:06,455 --> 00:22:07,891 - People say we are crazy. 455 00:22:07,935 --> 00:22:11,678 Not only people outside, but also our grandma. 456 00:22:11,721 --> 00:22:13,157 - Yeah. She said you were crazy. 457 00:22:13,201 --> 00:22:14,768 - Yeah, when we begin, our grandma say: 458 00:22:18,380 --> 00:22:20,513 - [laughs] 459 00:22:20,556 --> 00:22:21,992 The brothers' love of rice 460 00:22:22,036 --> 00:22:24,212 also inspires their dessert menu. 461 00:22:26,910 --> 00:22:31,828 And Manuel's signature dish is "Rice Field in Winter." 462 00:22:31,872 --> 00:22:34,527 - When I study this dish, I go in the rice field 463 00:22:34,570 --> 00:22:37,399 for taste the ground, for smell the ground. 464 00:22:37,443 --> 00:22:38,966 We use chestnut cream. 465 00:22:42,448 --> 00:22:44,188 - What's that? - It's rice ground. 466 00:22:44,232 --> 00:22:47,366 It's a biscuit of rice flour and chocolate. 467 00:22:47,409 --> 00:22:49,890 We add some of the crispy rice. 468 00:22:49,933 --> 00:22:51,195 - That one I used to have for breakfast. 469 00:22:51,239 --> 00:22:52,240 - Yes. - I was a kid-- 470 00:22:52,283 --> 00:22:54,024 not as good as that, but yeah. 471 00:22:54,068 --> 00:22:58,333 - And the wintertime for us is one of the most poetic moment 472 00:22:58,377 --> 00:23:00,683 of the year. - This is cool. 473 00:23:00,727 --> 00:23:02,816 - You have to be a little bit-- - Crazy. 474 00:23:02,859 --> 00:23:04,295 - Yes. - [laughs] 475 00:23:04,339 --> 00:23:05,775 - Put some liquid nitrogen. 476 00:23:10,084 --> 00:23:10,911 - So what did he put in there? 477 00:23:12,956 --> 00:23:13,957 - And then you're freezing it? 478 00:23:16,525 --> 00:23:18,701 - Like snow. That's cool. 479 00:23:18,745 --> 00:23:20,921 So now it's snowing. 480 00:23:20,964 --> 00:23:22,052 That's genius. 481 00:23:22,096 --> 00:23:23,663 - A morning in Vercelli. 482 00:23:23,706 --> 00:23:24,968 - Yeah, yeah. [laughs] 483 00:23:25,012 --> 00:23:26,230 I love it. 484 00:23:26,274 --> 00:23:27,971 You eat it with this? - Yeah. 485 00:23:34,630 --> 00:23:35,762 - That's great. 486 00:23:35,805 --> 00:23:37,503 It's not super-sweet. 487 00:23:37,546 --> 00:23:40,201 I wanna have it in a cone. 488 00:23:40,244 --> 00:23:43,291 - Thank you. - God damn it. 489 00:23:43,334 --> 00:23:47,338 Guys, how come I never met you before? 490 00:23:47,382 --> 00:23:48,688 [laughs] 491 00:23:50,994 --> 00:23:54,433 My whole life, wasted. - [laughs] 492 00:23:59,525 --> 00:24:02,484 [jazz music] 493 00:24:02,528 --> 00:24:04,268 ♪ 494 00:24:04,312 --> 00:24:05,966 - If you visit Piedmont, 495 00:24:06,009 --> 00:24:08,316 there's something that grows here that's so special, 496 00:24:08,359 --> 00:24:11,493 you have to try it: the white truffle. 497 00:24:11,537 --> 00:24:13,669 It's so coveted that it's sold on the market 498 00:24:13,713 --> 00:24:16,150 and at charity auctions for huge sums of money. 499 00:24:16,193 --> 00:24:20,110 [people speaking Italian] 500 00:24:20,154 --> 00:24:22,461 - This season's largest white truffles 501 00:24:22,504 --> 00:24:25,202 are selling to bidders from Italy and around the world. 502 00:24:25,246 --> 00:24:28,510 [all speaking Italian] 503 00:24:28,554 --> 00:24:30,338 - The auctioneer is my friend from Turin, 504 00:24:30,381 --> 00:24:32,471 food writer Paolo Vizzari. 505 00:24:32,514 --> 00:24:34,255 He's got his work cut out for him. 506 00:24:34,298 --> 00:24:37,171 Bids for the delicate fungi come in thick and fast. 507 00:24:40,696 --> 00:24:41,915 [all scream] 508 00:24:41,958 --> 00:24:45,092 [all speaking Italian] 509 00:24:46,876 --> 00:24:48,748 - Luckily, the buyer isn't put off. 510 00:24:48,791 --> 00:24:50,793 The white truffle's value 511 00:24:50,837 --> 00:24:52,795 seems to be pretty much indestructible. 512 00:25:00,977 --> 00:25:03,676 - Last up: a truffle weighing close to two pounds, 513 00:25:03,719 --> 00:25:06,330 pulling in bidders from Moscow and Hong Kong. 514 00:25:12,641 --> 00:25:14,382 [applause] 515 00:25:19,779 --> 00:25:22,564 - That's $114,000. 516 00:25:22,608 --> 00:25:23,826 When it comes to price, 517 00:25:23,870 --> 00:25:25,306 white truffles from Piedmont 518 00:25:25,349 --> 00:25:27,438 are in a league of their own. 519 00:25:27,482 --> 00:25:28,570 Nice to see you again. 520 00:25:28,614 --> 00:25:30,137 - Nice to see you again. - [laughs] 521 00:25:30,180 --> 00:25:33,053 Would any other truffle from any other part of Italy 522 00:25:33,096 --> 00:25:35,272 garner that much-- - No. 523 00:25:35,316 --> 00:25:36,709 - Attention, and would they get that much money? 524 00:25:36,752 --> 00:25:38,232 - I don't think so. - No. 525 00:25:38,275 --> 00:25:39,929 - In the end, it's all about the nature around here. 526 00:25:39,973 --> 00:25:41,191 - Yeah. I couldn't believe it, though, 527 00:25:41,235 --> 00:25:42,889 when the guy dropped the truffle. 528 00:25:42,932 --> 00:25:44,586 - [laughs] That was a chilling moment. 529 00:25:44,630 --> 00:25:46,457 - No, there was one little piece left on the floor. 530 00:25:46,501 --> 00:25:47,633 I saw it. - Did you pick it? 531 00:25:47,676 --> 00:25:48,851 - No, no. I was too embarrassed. 532 00:25:48,895 --> 00:25:50,287 - [laughing] Because it's probably like 533 00:25:50,331 --> 00:25:51,419 20 grams. - Yeah, I know! 534 00:25:51,462 --> 00:25:53,595 There was like--yeah. [laughs] 535 00:25:53,639 --> 00:25:55,118 [rooster crows] 536 00:25:55,162 --> 00:25:57,947 [calm music] 537 00:25:57,991 --> 00:26:00,863 - While the more common black truffle can be farmed, 538 00:26:00,907 --> 00:26:03,649 white truffles grow only in the wild. 539 00:26:03,692 --> 00:26:06,173 So auction houses rely on truffle hunters 540 00:26:06,216 --> 00:26:09,306 to source the white gold in the forests of the Langhe, 541 00:26:09,350 --> 00:26:13,876 an area of rolling hills 40 miles south of Turin. 542 00:26:13,920 --> 00:26:15,704 Here, conditions are perfect. 543 00:26:15,748 --> 00:26:17,314 Warm air from the south 544 00:26:17,358 --> 00:26:19,621 pushes back cold currents from the Alps, 545 00:26:19,665 --> 00:26:23,190 and summer rainfall feeds the mineral-rich soil. 546 00:26:23,233 --> 00:26:24,626 White truffles sell 547 00:26:24,670 --> 00:26:25,932 for extraordinary amounts of money 548 00:26:25,975 --> 00:26:27,760 because they're so hard to find, 549 00:26:27,803 --> 00:26:30,284 even if you know what you're doing. 550 00:26:30,327 --> 00:26:33,113 I'm going to meet a truffle hunter, 551 00:26:33,156 --> 00:26:34,593 and we're gonna catch a big one. 552 00:26:36,551 --> 00:26:39,554 The competition between truffle hunters is intense, 553 00:26:39,598 --> 00:26:42,426 and they're obsessed with guarding their secrets. 554 00:26:42,470 --> 00:26:44,515 But I'm meeting someone who's agreed to show me some 555 00:26:44,559 --> 00:26:46,430 of what he knows. 556 00:26:46,474 --> 00:26:47,997 This is gonna be interesting. 557 00:26:50,391 --> 00:26:52,915 Okay. Here we go. 558 00:26:52,959 --> 00:26:53,960 - [speaks Italian] - [speaks Italian] 559 00:26:54,003 --> 00:26:55,048 - Stanley. 560 00:26:58,704 --> 00:27:03,143 - Igor Bianchi is known as the king of truffle hunters. 561 00:27:03,186 --> 00:27:04,144 Hi. 562 00:27:06,668 --> 00:27:09,149 - They're border collie. - Border collie. 563 00:27:09,192 --> 00:27:11,804 - [speaks Italian] Well, shall we? 564 00:27:11,847 --> 00:27:14,981 - [speaks Italian] - Let's go. 565 00:27:15,024 --> 00:27:16,722 So beautiful. 566 00:27:37,525 --> 00:27:38,874 - Lola and Susy have been trained 567 00:27:38,918 --> 00:27:40,267 since they were puppies 568 00:27:40,310 --> 00:27:42,225 to detect the truffles' unique scent. 569 00:27:50,451 --> 00:27:51,365 - [laughs] 570 00:27:53,802 --> 00:27:54,673 - Okay. [laughs] 571 00:27:56,022 --> 00:27:57,066 - [laughs] 572 00:27:58,241 --> 00:27:59,416 - [laughs] 573 00:28:00,504 --> 00:28:01,418 [speaks Italian] 574 00:28:04,247 --> 00:28:06,467 [whistles] 575 00:28:06,510 --> 00:28:08,643 - Igor once found a monster truffle 576 00:28:08,687 --> 00:28:10,732 weighing just over two pounds. 577 00:28:10,776 --> 00:28:12,647 So you never know what we might find today. 578 00:28:12,691 --> 00:28:15,519 - [whistles] [speaks Italian] 579 00:28:45,811 --> 00:28:47,813 - [laughs] 580 00:28:47,856 --> 00:28:48,770 - [whistles] 581 00:28:50,511 --> 00:28:52,774 Hey, Lola! Hey! 582 00:29:18,626 --> 00:29:20,802 - For all of Igor's expertise, 583 00:29:20,846 --> 00:29:23,370 the last few years have been tough for truffle hunters. 584 00:29:23,413 --> 00:29:26,025 Climate change has meant less summer rainfall. 585 00:29:26,068 --> 00:29:27,722 Hence, fewer truffles. 586 00:29:36,557 --> 00:29:39,821 - It seems that the truffles are being shy today. 587 00:29:39,865 --> 00:29:41,692 - [speaks Italian] 588 00:29:41,736 --> 00:29:43,607 - With truffles harder to find, 589 00:29:43,651 --> 00:29:47,046 they're becoming more precious than ever. 590 00:29:47,089 --> 00:29:50,571 Luckily for me, Igor did find a truffle yesterday, 591 00:29:50,614 --> 00:29:52,660 and he wants to cook up a classic truffle dish 592 00:29:52,703 --> 00:29:54,662 in his garage. 593 00:29:54,705 --> 00:29:55,619 Oh, my God. 594 00:30:01,321 --> 00:30:03,671 - Nothing else in the world is like that. 595 00:30:05,847 --> 00:30:08,110 Simple recipes are best when it comes to showing off 596 00:30:08,154 --> 00:30:09,677 the truffle's flavor. 597 00:30:09,720 --> 00:30:12,332 So Igor's cooking me eggs fried in butter, 598 00:30:12,375 --> 00:30:14,073 topped with shaved truffle. 599 00:30:19,643 --> 00:30:22,559 - Ah...I see. Mmm. 600 00:30:24,083 --> 00:30:26,433 - Okay, now--right. Now it has to-- 601 00:30:28,739 --> 00:30:31,307 [sings in Italian] - [laughs] 602 00:31:09,041 --> 00:31:12,087 Despite all the razzmatazz and velvet cushions, 603 00:31:12,131 --> 00:31:14,220 when it comes down to it, white truffles 604 00:31:14,263 --> 00:31:16,048 are really a simple, earthy pleasure 605 00:31:16,091 --> 00:31:17,919 straight from Mother Nature. 606 00:31:17,963 --> 00:31:18,920 - Eh? - Mmm. 607 00:31:18,964 --> 00:31:19,878 - [laughs] 608 00:31:24,273 --> 00:31:25,187 Grazie. 609 00:31:34,980 --> 00:31:37,939 [jazz music] 610 00:31:37,983 --> 00:31:40,376 ♪ 611 00:31:40,420 --> 00:31:42,596 - In the Langhe, I'm on the trail 612 00:31:42,639 --> 00:31:45,729 of another coveted treat that comes from this land 613 00:31:45,773 --> 00:31:46,905 of coveted treats. 614 00:31:48,515 --> 00:31:49,559 It's so beautiful. 615 00:31:52,040 --> 00:31:55,174 Due to a unique combination of geography and climate, 616 00:31:55,217 --> 00:31:58,177 these hills are home not only to the white truffle, 617 00:31:58,220 --> 00:32:01,397 but also one of Italy's most celebrated red wines. 618 00:32:03,269 --> 00:32:05,836 Giulia Negri is the first person in her family 619 00:32:05,880 --> 00:32:08,274 to make Barolo from vines on this estate. 620 00:32:11,233 --> 00:32:13,322 So you inherited this place? 621 00:32:13,366 --> 00:32:14,628 - Yes. - From your family? 622 00:32:14,671 --> 00:32:16,760 - They were a big family of engineer from Turina. 623 00:32:16,804 --> 00:32:19,154 - Uh-huh. - And they bought it in 1870... 624 00:32:24,290 --> 00:32:25,204 - Yeah. 625 00:32:28,816 --> 00:32:31,993 [calm piano music] 626 00:32:32,037 --> 00:32:33,908 - These slopes get a lot of sun-- 627 00:32:33,952 --> 00:32:35,388 although, not today-- 628 00:32:35,431 --> 00:32:37,520 making them perfect for growing Nebbiolo, 629 00:32:37,564 --> 00:32:39,783 a thin-skinned grape that's hard to cultivate 630 00:32:39,827 --> 00:32:41,960 outside this region. 631 00:32:42,003 --> 00:32:45,093 It's the only grape that can be used to make Barolo. 632 00:32:45,137 --> 00:32:48,183 So you have how many hectares of... 633 00:32:48,227 --> 00:32:51,056 - We have six hectare and a half of vineyard, 634 00:32:51,099 --> 00:32:54,276 so they are all around here the house, and 12 forests. 635 00:32:54,320 --> 00:32:57,192 It's among the last forests in all the Barolo area. 636 00:32:57,236 --> 00:32:58,498 - Oh, really? - And this is why 637 00:32:58,541 --> 00:33:01,240 we're really protecting it a lot. 638 00:33:01,283 --> 00:33:03,242 - Whereas a lot of winemakers might get rid of that forest 639 00:33:03,285 --> 00:33:04,852 and plant more... - Vines? 640 00:33:04,895 --> 00:33:06,027 Exactly. - Yep. 641 00:33:08,116 --> 00:33:12,207 Barolo produced exclusively in this tiny corner of the Langhe 642 00:33:12,251 --> 00:33:14,862 is one of Italy's finest and most expensive wines. 643 00:33:16,995 --> 00:33:19,214 "Nebbia" is Italian for "fog." 644 00:33:19,258 --> 00:33:21,347 And when the fogs of fall come, 645 00:33:21,390 --> 00:33:23,697 that's when the Nebbiolo is harvested. 646 00:33:23,740 --> 00:33:25,438 So I'm here at the perfect time 647 00:33:25,481 --> 00:33:27,657 to see how Giulia transforms these grapes. 648 00:33:30,312 --> 00:33:32,053 - Come in. [chuckles] 649 00:33:35,448 --> 00:33:37,624 So here, you can smell it, definitely. 650 00:33:37,667 --> 00:33:39,017 - I definitely smell it. 651 00:33:39,060 --> 00:33:41,149 - We finished the harvest two weeks ago. 652 00:33:41,193 --> 00:33:42,716 - Mm-hmm. 653 00:33:42,759 --> 00:33:44,587 - We are truly in the peak of the fermentations, 654 00:33:44,631 --> 00:33:46,546 and if you listen... 655 00:33:46,589 --> 00:33:49,201 [faint crackling] 656 00:33:49,244 --> 00:33:51,072 - Oh, yeah! both: It's alive. 657 00:33:51,116 --> 00:33:54,075 - It's alive! - [laughing] 658 00:33:54,119 --> 00:33:57,600 - Wow. - Our job is to keep the cap 659 00:33:57,644 --> 00:33:59,689 always wet during the fermentation 660 00:33:59,733 --> 00:34:02,736 because otherwise, it becomes like vinegar. 661 00:34:02,779 --> 00:34:05,565 - Oh, vinegar? - Yeah. 662 00:34:05,608 --> 00:34:07,393 - You're putting wine-- - We are pumping it 663 00:34:07,436 --> 00:34:09,047 from the lower parts. 664 00:34:09,090 --> 00:34:10,352 - Oh, you're pumping it from the bottom into the top. 665 00:34:10,396 --> 00:34:11,310 - Exactly. - Oh, I see, I see. 666 00:34:13,399 --> 00:34:14,835 I'd like to have this in my kitchen. 667 00:34:14,878 --> 00:34:15,792 - [laughs] 668 00:34:18,056 --> 00:34:21,015 - Did you go and study wine-making, or you just... 669 00:34:21,059 --> 00:34:22,843 - I never studied wine-making. - Try it yourself? 670 00:34:22,886 --> 00:34:26,673 - Not knowing nothing about it, uh, made me learn 671 00:34:26,716 --> 00:34:28,979 really faster. - Yeah. 672 00:34:29,023 --> 00:34:30,938 - Wine is more-- is like cooking. 673 00:34:30,981 --> 00:34:31,895 - Yeah. 674 00:34:34,811 --> 00:34:36,204 It's the same. - [laughs] 675 00:34:36,248 --> 00:34:37,597 - It's more really... 676 00:34:39,164 --> 00:34:41,296 - You feel it. - I don't know how to say. 677 00:34:41,340 --> 00:34:43,211 - Now for the best part of the process. 678 00:34:43,255 --> 00:34:45,083 For me, at least. 679 00:34:45,126 --> 00:34:46,823 - Now it is a Barolo that is very young. 680 00:34:46,867 --> 00:34:49,043 It will be a 2019. 681 00:34:49,087 --> 00:34:52,133 It will stays two year here. So, easy. 682 00:34:52,177 --> 00:34:54,483 - Right. - And the half of these aging. 683 00:34:54,527 --> 00:34:57,617 [lively piano music] 684 00:34:57,660 --> 00:35:01,360 ♪ 685 00:35:01,403 --> 00:35:03,144 - I'm not spitting that out. 686 00:35:03,188 --> 00:35:04,493 It's delicious. 687 00:35:04,537 --> 00:35:05,625 - Mm. - But you can tell it just 688 00:35:05,668 --> 00:35:07,322 needs more time. 689 00:35:07,366 --> 00:35:08,758 - Definitely. - Yeah. 690 00:35:08,802 --> 00:35:09,933 How old are you? 691 00:35:09,977 --> 00:35:11,674 - 30. Last week. 692 00:35:11,718 --> 00:35:12,588 - That's incredible. 693 00:35:14,677 --> 00:35:16,897 One of the region's youngest vintners, 694 00:35:16,940 --> 00:35:19,421 Giulia's instinctive feel for the grapes, 695 00:35:19,465 --> 00:35:21,989 plus her meticulous observation of the process, 696 00:35:22,032 --> 00:35:23,469 makes her wine outstanding. 697 00:35:25,645 --> 00:35:27,342 - So we will open another Barolo-- 698 00:35:27,386 --> 00:35:28,996 - Okay. - But the last vintage, 699 00:35:29,039 --> 00:35:30,389 which is the 2017. 700 00:35:30,432 --> 00:35:32,042 both: Cheers. 701 00:35:32,086 --> 00:35:33,261 - Welcome, Stanley. - Thank you very much. 702 00:35:33,305 --> 00:35:34,219 Thank you. 703 00:35:36,656 --> 00:35:39,006 Mmm, that's really nice. - Mm. 704 00:35:39,049 --> 00:35:40,312 - That's great. 705 00:35:40,355 --> 00:35:42,357 It is distinctly different. - Yes. 706 00:35:42,401 --> 00:35:45,360 - Than the 2019, which is still in the... 707 00:35:45,404 --> 00:35:47,232 - Barrel. - In the barrel. 708 00:35:47,275 --> 00:35:51,192 The tannins are more prominent. 709 00:35:51,236 --> 00:35:54,500 and yeah, at the same time, it's sort of lighter 710 00:35:54,543 --> 00:35:57,024 and more delicate. - Mm-hmm. 711 00:35:57,067 --> 00:35:59,200 Si, it's more balanced, no? - [stammers] Literally, 712 00:35:59,244 --> 00:36:00,419 it was off-balance. 713 00:36:00,462 --> 00:36:01,942 It's going back and forth. 714 00:36:01,985 --> 00:36:04,379 That's the longest description of any glass of wine 715 00:36:04,423 --> 00:36:05,815 that anyone's ever made... - [laughing] 716 00:36:05,859 --> 00:36:08,035 - And I'm really sorry. I am sorry. 717 00:36:08,078 --> 00:36:09,776 I could say that-- what, you know... 718 00:36:09,819 --> 00:36:11,604 [in British accent] It has notes of strawberry. 719 00:36:11,647 --> 00:36:12,431 [speaking normally] But I won't say that, 720 00:36:12,474 --> 00:36:14,084 'cause it doesn't. 721 00:36:14,128 --> 00:36:16,217 I'll just say it's pretty good, 722 00:36:16,261 --> 00:36:20,265 and it's getting better. 723 00:36:20,308 --> 00:36:21,788 - Yep. - As it's opening-- 724 00:36:21,831 --> 00:36:24,617 - Open up, but it's incredible how really Barolo-- 725 00:36:24,660 --> 00:36:26,314 you put it in a glass, and in ten minutes, 726 00:36:26,358 --> 00:36:28,229 it's changed completely. - Totally. 727 00:36:28,273 --> 00:36:30,666 - So you need the truffle to pair it, and then... 728 00:36:30,710 --> 00:36:32,320 - I know. Well, let's go look for one. 729 00:36:32,364 --> 00:36:33,539 [both laugh] 730 00:36:33,582 --> 00:36:38,935 ♪ 731 00:36:42,330 --> 00:36:45,246 [lively piano music] 732 00:36:45,290 --> 00:36:48,249 ♪ 733 00:36:48,293 --> 00:36:50,904 - I cannot resist the call of the Alps, 734 00:36:50,947 --> 00:36:52,993 which dominate the skyline everywhere in Piedmont. 735 00:36:53,036 --> 00:36:55,561 ♪ 736 00:36:55,604 --> 00:36:57,432 Finally going up in the world, 737 00:36:57,476 --> 00:37:00,479 I've ascended to Italy's smallest and highest region: 738 00:37:00,522 --> 00:37:03,264 Valle D'Aosta. 739 00:37:03,308 --> 00:37:05,788 Nestled in the Alps, its cuisine is influenced 740 00:37:05,832 --> 00:37:07,877 by close neighbors France and Switzerland. 741 00:37:09,749 --> 00:37:11,490 As usual, I'm famished, 742 00:37:11,533 --> 00:37:13,274 and there's a little restaurant at the foot 743 00:37:13,318 --> 00:37:16,234 of the Matterhorn dedicated to Alpine food: 744 00:37:16,277 --> 00:37:17,409 Alpage. 745 00:37:17,452 --> 00:37:21,935 ♪ 746 00:37:21,978 --> 00:37:23,023 - Hello, nice to meet you. - Hello. 747 00:37:23,066 --> 00:37:25,155 Welcome, Stanley. - Thank you. 748 00:37:25,199 --> 00:37:27,984 Thanks--thanks for having me. 749 00:37:28,028 --> 00:37:31,727 Cecilia Lazzarotto, a local teacher and sommelier, 750 00:37:31,771 --> 00:37:34,904 knows a thing or two about the best this region has to offer. 751 00:37:34,948 --> 00:37:37,298 Are we gonna eat? - Yes, we can go outside, 752 00:37:37,342 --> 00:37:38,256 if you want. - Let's go outside. 753 00:37:38,299 --> 00:37:39,561 - Yeah. [laughs] Okay. 754 00:37:42,347 --> 00:37:44,914 - With views like these, you have to eat outside. 755 00:37:47,439 --> 00:37:49,658 What do we have? - [speaking Italian] 756 00:37:51,747 --> 00:37:53,183 - This is, um... - Jambon. 757 00:37:53,227 --> 00:37:54,576 - Oh, you're speaking French. 758 00:37:54,620 --> 00:37:55,534 All right, go ahead. - [laughs] 759 00:37:55,577 --> 00:37:57,840 - [speaks French] [both laugh] 760 00:37:57,884 --> 00:37:59,973 This is one is Lard d'Arnad. 761 00:38:00,016 --> 00:38:02,323 - Yeah, lardo. - [speaking Italian] 762 00:38:10,331 --> 00:38:11,680 - Thank you. Very good. - Grazie. 763 00:38:11,724 --> 00:38:13,769 - Look at that-- how beautiful that is. 764 00:38:18,731 --> 00:38:21,995 So this region, there are basically... 765 00:38:22,038 --> 00:38:22,996 three different languages. 766 00:38:27,174 --> 00:38:30,830 But I think most of the population of our region 767 00:38:30,873 --> 00:38:33,920 is consider themselves Italian. - Italian. 768 00:38:33,963 --> 00:38:36,923 - It's strange because we never seeing the other side 769 00:38:36,966 --> 00:38:38,228 of the mountain. 770 00:38:38,272 --> 00:38:41,275 But we know who are in the other side. 771 00:38:41,319 --> 00:38:43,146 [speaking Italian] 772 00:38:44,670 --> 00:38:46,367 - And if there's one dish 773 00:38:46,411 --> 00:38:48,848 that Valle D'Aosta's close neighbors are famous for... 774 00:38:48,891 --> 00:38:52,112 - Oh! Grazie. - It's fondue. 775 00:38:52,155 --> 00:38:53,461 On this side of the mountains, 776 00:38:53,505 --> 00:38:56,421 it's called "fonduta," 777 00:38:56,464 --> 00:38:58,118 and over here, they make it a little differently. 778 00:39:03,253 --> 00:39:04,994 - Yeah. - The difference between, 779 00:39:05,038 --> 00:39:07,214 for example, Switzerland and France-- 780 00:39:07,257 --> 00:39:09,564 they have fonduta with different cheese-- 781 00:39:09,608 --> 00:39:11,653 - What do they use? - Gruyère? 782 00:39:11,697 --> 00:39:14,090 - Gruyère? - Maybe a bit of frachet. 783 00:39:22,055 --> 00:39:23,970 [laughs] 784 00:39:24,013 --> 00:39:27,321 - Italian fontina cheese from cows fed on sweet grass 785 00:39:27,365 --> 00:39:30,542 high in these mountains make the fonduta so luscious, 786 00:39:30,585 --> 00:39:32,108 it doesn't need the white wine they add 787 00:39:32,152 --> 00:39:33,371 in France or Switzerland. 788 00:39:34,850 --> 00:39:36,983 Mmm. Oh, my God, that is so good. 789 00:39:39,594 --> 00:39:40,552 - That is incredible. 790 00:39:50,997 --> 00:39:52,302 - So delicious. 791 00:39:52,346 --> 00:39:54,348 [soft piano music] 792 00:39:54,392 --> 00:39:56,785 All these dishes are packed with calories-- 793 00:39:56,829 --> 00:39:59,222 perfect for a day high in the mountains, 794 00:39:59,266 --> 00:40:01,442 and I couldn't leave without going to the top of one. 795 00:40:01,486 --> 00:40:07,622 ♪ 796 00:40:07,666 --> 00:40:09,668 I've actually skied here before, 797 00:40:09,711 --> 00:40:11,887 and the view from the peak is spectacular. 798 00:40:11,931 --> 00:40:14,542 I can't wait to see it again. 799 00:40:14,586 --> 00:40:16,457 And then, as if on cue... 800 00:40:19,199 --> 00:40:22,768 Look at--we're just enveloped in cloud. 801 00:40:22,811 --> 00:40:25,553 Here we go right into it. 802 00:40:25,597 --> 00:40:26,989 Well, that was a trip for nothing, right? 803 00:40:27,033 --> 00:40:27,947 - [laughs] 804 00:40:31,124 --> 00:40:33,343 - We are on the border. 805 00:40:33,387 --> 00:40:36,085 So we have to cross. - Okay, ready? 806 00:40:36,129 --> 00:40:37,347 - Yeah. 807 00:40:37,391 --> 00:40:38,479 You are ready? - Ciao, Italia. 808 00:40:38,523 --> 00:40:40,394 - Okay. Wow, we are in Switzerland. 809 00:40:40,438 --> 00:40:41,830 - We're in Switzerland. 810 00:40:41,874 --> 00:40:44,572 Oh, wait, I forgot something. - [laughs] 811 00:40:44,616 --> 00:40:46,008 - Is that where we're going? - Yeah. 812 00:40:46,052 --> 00:40:48,837 - Rifugio. Rifugio. - Rifugio. 813 00:40:48,881 --> 00:40:51,318 - What better way to end my journey to the Alps 814 00:40:51,361 --> 00:40:53,451 than with a glass of the local liquor? 815 00:40:56,366 --> 00:40:58,717 [both laugh] 816 00:40:58,760 --> 00:41:01,154 Génépi is a real winter warmer. 817 00:41:01,197 --> 00:41:03,548 It's made with wormwood and Alpine plants 818 00:41:03,591 --> 00:41:05,985 celebrated for its healing properties. 819 00:41:06,028 --> 00:41:07,160 - Cheers. - Thank you so much. 820 00:41:07,203 --> 00:41:08,204 - Thank you to you. 821 00:41:12,165 --> 00:41:13,383 It's fantastic. - Whoa! 822 00:41:13,427 --> 00:41:16,082 - From herbs-- from, uh, from mountains-- 823 00:41:16,125 --> 00:41:17,344 - Oof! - Fantastic, no? 824 00:41:17,387 --> 00:41:18,345 - Yes! 825 00:41:19,607 --> 00:41:21,522 [both laugh] 826 00:41:21,566 --> 00:41:24,525 - The génépi has brightened things up considerably, 827 00:41:24,569 --> 00:41:26,788 inside and out. 828 00:41:26,832 --> 00:41:28,137 Oh, look. Now we can really see it. 829 00:41:28,181 --> 00:41:29,182 - Yeah! 830 00:41:29,225 --> 00:41:34,274 ♪ 831 00:41:37,538 --> 00:41:38,452 - Yeah. 832 00:41:44,110 --> 00:41:46,242 It's difficult to describe sometimes, huh? 833 00:41:46,286 --> 00:41:48,636 I see them and I shut up 834 00:41:48,680 --> 00:41:51,160 because it's impossible to talk about. 835 00:41:51,204 --> 00:41:52,292 - Beautiful. 836 00:41:54,903 --> 00:41:57,558 Stretched out below is Valle D'Aosta 837 00:41:57,602 --> 00:41:59,386 and Piedmont beyond, 838 00:41:59,429 --> 00:42:01,649 where the Italian nation was born-- 839 00:42:01,693 --> 00:42:03,738 a region without which 840 00:42:03,782 --> 00:42:06,393 I wouldn't be searching for Italy at all. 841 00:42:06,436 --> 00:42:10,528 ♪