1
00:00:07,659 --> 00:00:09,531
- This is a really nice boat.

2
00:00:09,574 --> 00:00:12,447
[energetic jazz music]

3
00:00:12,490 --> 00:00:14,144
♪

4
00:00:14,188 --> 00:00:16,059
It's the fifth century.

5
00:00:16,103 --> 00:00:19,410
You're an urban planner
pitching an idea.

6
00:00:19,454 --> 00:00:23,545
A city in the sea, you say,
built on stilts,

7
00:00:23,588 --> 00:00:25,895
canals instead of streets.

8
00:00:25,938 --> 00:00:28,637
You can only get there
by boat.

9
00:00:28,680 --> 00:00:31,901
And incredibly, they built it.

10
00:00:31,944 --> 00:00:33,685
Over a millennium or two,

11
00:00:33,729 --> 00:00:37,167
Venice becomes the center
of a world trading empire--

12
00:00:37,211 --> 00:00:41,954
silks, spices, ideas,
and money, lots of it.

13
00:00:43,217 --> 00:00:46,089
The Venetians live
between earth and water.

14
00:00:46,133 --> 00:00:51,138
It shaped their character--
salty, wise, and ingenious.

15
00:00:51,181 --> 00:00:53,183
I've never seen anyone
do that before.

16
00:00:53,227 --> 00:00:55,098
- [chuckles]

17
00:00:55,142 --> 00:00:56,969
I'm Stanley Tucci.

18
00:00:57,013 --> 00:00:59,233
I'm Italian on both sides,
and I'm traveling across Italy

19
00:00:59,276 --> 00:01:00,625
to discover how the food

20
00:01:00,669 --> 00:01:03,324
in each of this country's
20 regions

21
00:01:03,367 --> 00:01:06,109
is as unique
as the people and their past.

22
00:01:06,153 --> 00:01:07,545
May I?
Thank you.

23
00:01:07,589 --> 00:01:08,590
How are you?

24
00:01:08,633 --> 00:01:09,852
- Good.
- Good.

25
00:01:09,895 --> 00:01:11,288
Surrounded by wetlands...

26
00:01:11,332 --> 00:01:12,637
[gunshots]

27
00:01:12,681 --> 00:01:14,770
These people are hunters...

28
00:01:14,813 --> 00:01:15,771
You're a great shot.

29
00:01:15,814 --> 00:01:17,686
And gatherers.

30
00:01:17,729 --> 00:01:18,817
It's perfectly balanced.

31
00:01:18,861 --> 00:01:20,993
Wow. Wow!

32
00:01:21,037 --> 00:01:23,779
The sea brought the outside
world to the Venetians

33
00:01:23,822 --> 00:01:25,476
and fed their appetites.

34
00:01:25,520 --> 00:01:26,695
Mmm!

35
00:01:26,738 --> 00:01:29,437
So many different cultures
right in a bowl.

36
00:01:29,480 --> 00:01:36,400
♪

37
00:01:39,229 --> 00:01:42,145
[energetic orchestral music]

38
00:01:42,189 --> 00:01:44,365
♪

39
00:01:44,408 --> 00:01:46,410
Venice is the capital
of the Veneto region.

40
00:01:46,454 --> 00:01:49,457
It's flat, fertile, and damp--

41
00:01:49,500 --> 00:01:51,676
sheltered in the west
by the Dolomites

42
00:01:51,720 --> 00:01:54,897
and in the east
warmed by the Adriatic Sea.

43
00:01:54,940 --> 00:01:56,681
♪

44
00:01:56,725 --> 00:02:01,338
117 islands sit
in this salty bay, the lagoon.

45
00:02:01,382 --> 00:02:03,297
Venice is the largest.

46
00:02:03,340 --> 00:02:05,037
No food is grown here.

47
00:02:05,081 --> 00:02:07,214
It all comes in
from the outside.

48
00:02:09,651 --> 00:02:11,479
I want to eat
what Venetians eat

49
00:02:11,522 --> 00:02:14,482
in the places
they go to eat it in.

50
00:02:14,525 --> 00:02:16,527
A friend from here
says I can do it

51
00:02:16,571 --> 00:02:18,964
just two minutes
from the Rialto Bridge.

52
00:02:19,008 --> 00:02:20,705
Let's go.

53
00:02:20,749 --> 00:02:25,275
My target is a wine bar,
open for breakfast.

54
00:02:25,319 --> 00:02:28,409
Okay, first, north
down the Riva del Vin,

55
00:02:28,452 --> 00:02:30,367
once full of wine warehouses--

56
00:02:30,411 --> 00:02:32,891
great priorities,
the Venetians.

57
00:02:32,935 --> 00:02:36,025
Take a right, and you're
in a maze of alleyways.

58
00:02:36,068 --> 00:02:38,201
♪

59
00:02:38,245 --> 00:02:39,855
It'd be easy to lose the way,

60
00:02:39,898 --> 00:02:42,684
but the Rialto area
is the fish market district.

61
00:02:42,727 --> 00:02:44,947
You just have
to follow your nose.

62
00:02:44,990 --> 00:02:47,210
♪

63
00:02:47,254 --> 00:02:48,690
I could be hallucinating,

64
00:02:48,733 --> 00:02:51,214
but would my mouth
be watering?

65
00:02:51,258 --> 00:02:54,565
♪

66
00:02:54,609 --> 00:02:57,133
- Hey.

67
00:02:57,177 --> 00:02:59,135
- Buongiorno.

68
00:02:59,179 --> 00:03:02,007
I found it.

69
00:03:02,051 --> 00:03:04,575
It was 2 hours and 45 minutes.

70
00:03:04,619 --> 00:03:05,968
- [grunts]

71
00:03:06,011 --> 00:03:07,187
♪

72
00:03:07,230 --> 00:03:08,405
Buongiorno.

73
00:03:08,449 --> 00:03:11,321
[all speaking Italian]

74
00:03:20,461 --> 00:03:22,289
[chuckles]

75
00:03:22,332 --> 00:03:25,248
All'Arco is abacaro,
a neighborhood watering hole.

76
00:03:25,292 --> 00:03:27,424
This one is run
by Matteo Pinto

77
00:03:27,468 --> 00:03:29,252
and has been
in the family forever.

78
00:03:31,907 --> 00:03:37,217
And these are cicchetti,
a traditional Venetian snack.

79
00:03:41,917 --> 00:03:43,397
It's only 8:30,

80
00:03:43,440 --> 00:03:46,356
but a Venetian breakfast
is eaten standing up,

81
00:03:46,400 --> 00:03:48,184
washed down
with a glass of wine

82
00:03:48,228 --> 00:03:50,708
known as anombra, or shadow.

83
00:03:50,752 --> 00:03:52,536
[upbeat music]

84
00:03:55,191 --> 00:03:56,366
Ah.

85
00:03:58,412 --> 00:04:00,283
Si.

86
00:04:00,327 --> 00:04:03,330
This is fast food
lagoon-style.

87
00:04:03,373 --> 00:04:05,767
The wordcicchetti means
"a nothing."

88
00:04:05,810 --> 00:04:09,161
Ironic, because
it's really something.

89
00:04:12,687 --> 00:04:13,601
Yeah?

90
00:04:16,430 --> 00:04:19,302
Oh, my God.

91
00:04:20,738 --> 00:04:22,479
I love it.

92
00:04:22,523 --> 00:04:24,699
I'm coming over here
so I can see it.

93
00:04:24,742 --> 00:04:28,833
Look--look at that.
Oh, my God.

94
00:04:31,662 --> 00:04:34,491
[crunches]

95
00:04:37,973 --> 00:04:39,540
Okay.

96
00:04:39,583 --> 00:04:43,805
You got some--oh, my God.
That is so good.

97
00:04:43,848 --> 00:04:46,373
The combination of flavors
is incredible.

98
00:04:46,416 --> 00:04:49,593
You have orange, truffle,
dill, radicchio.

99
00:04:49,637 --> 00:04:51,769
You have-- Come?
- Stracciatella.

100
00:04:51,813 --> 00:04:55,207
- Stracciatella, which is--
it's cheese,

101
00:04:55,251 --> 00:04:57,558
and you have
that incredible cross

102
00:04:57,601 --> 00:05:00,735
between a scampi
and a langoustine.

103
00:05:02,476 --> 00:05:05,479
[crunches]

104
00:05:09,396 --> 00:05:11,398
- You tasting? It's good?
- It is so good!

105
00:05:11,441 --> 00:05:13,748
- Mission completed.
- That's incredible.

106
00:05:18,927 --> 00:05:21,364
[laughs]

107
00:05:21,408 --> 00:05:23,453
The Venetians
invented cicchetti,

108
00:05:23,497 --> 00:05:26,413
perhaps because merchants
could eat them standing up

109
00:05:26,456 --> 00:05:28,284
and haggle
over a glass of wine.

110
00:05:28,328 --> 00:05:30,155
If we want to talk
about a Michelin star,

111
00:05:30,199 --> 00:05:32,549
this should have
a Michelin star.

112
00:05:34,725 --> 00:05:36,292
[both laugh]

113
00:05:36,336 --> 00:05:38,381
♪

114
00:05:38,425 --> 00:05:39,904
There's a local saying--

115
00:05:39,948 --> 00:05:41,776
"If you want to know
the best place to eat,

116
00:05:41,819 --> 00:05:43,168
ask a gondolier."

117
00:05:43,212 --> 00:05:45,562
Luckily,
there are around 400 of them.

118
00:05:45,606 --> 00:05:49,436
This is Tobia Patias.

119
00:05:49,479 --> 00:05:52,395
He's invited me to lunch
at a popular boatman's hangout

120
00:05:52,439 --> 00:05:54,615
just off the Grand Canal.

121
00:05:54,658 --> 00:05:58,706
Ai 4 Feri Storti
is cicchetti heaven, he says,

122
00:05:58,749 --> 00:06:01,404
though gondola parking
is limited.

123
00:06:01,448 --> 00:06:04,625
So cheers.
- Cheers.

124
00:06:04,668 --> 00:06:07,105
- Oh, my God.
[both chuckle]

125
00:06:07,149 --> 00:06:08,890
Grazie.

126
00:06:08,933 --> 00:06:10,457
♪

127
00:06:10,500 --> 00:06:12,502
- How about that?

128
00:06:14,330 --> 00:06:17,202
More or less.
[both chuckle]

129
00:06:17,246 --> 00:06:18,421
- That is dried tomato.

130
00:06:30,694 --> 00:06:32,740
- [chuckles]

131
00:06:32,783 --> 00:06:34,524
[both laugh]

132
00:06:34,568 --> 00:06:36,091
- I'll try it.
Okay.

133
00:06:36,134 --> 00:06:40,617
♪

134
00:06:40,661 --> 00:06:43,968
Mmm.
That's really good.

135
00:06:44,012 --> 00:06:46,318
- Grazie.
[chuckles]

136
00:06:46,362 --> 00:06:50,975
- So gondoliers
are eating cicchetti

137
00:06:51,019 --> 00:06:52,020
sort of throughout the day.

138
00:06:52,063 --> 00:06:53,195
It just keeps you...

139
00:06:53,238 --> 00:06:55,023
- In shape.
[both chuckle]

140
00:06:55,066 --> 00:06:57,547
Rounded shape.

141
00:06:59,114 --> 00:07:00,637
- Sarde in saor.

142
00:07:00,681 --> 00:07:02,726
That's one of the most
typical cicchetti

143
00:07:02,770 --> 00:07:05,599
and dishes
that we have in Venice

144
00:07:05,642 --> 00:07:08,906
and comes from
our great-grandparents.

145
00:07:08,950 --> 00:07:10,908
They were using this as food

146
00:07:10,952 --> 00:07:13,607
when they were going out
for fishing in the lagoon

147
00:07:13,650 --> 00:07:15,478
and were staying
out 10, 15 days

148
00:07:15,522 --> 00:07:17,088
before they were
going back home.

149
00:07:17,132 --> 00:07:19,395
- Oh, really?
- Yeah.

150
00:07:21,528 --> 00:07:22,659
- Right.

151
00:07:24,618 --> 00:07:27,055
- And I really do love it.

152
00:07:27,098 --> 00:07:29,536
This simple dish
is a Venetian classic.

153
00:07:29,579 --> 00:07:34,018
Another is baccala mantecato,
the king of cicchetti.

154
00:07:34,062 --> 00:07:35,629
It's made
with a different fish

155
00:07:35,672 --> 00:07:38,588
from a cold ocean far away.

156
00:07:38,632 --> 00:07:41,548
Preserved by breezes
on the Norwegian coast,

157
00:07:41,591 --> 00:07:44,115
these cod are destined
for Venice.

158
00:07:44,159 --> 00:07:46,509
The trade started in 1432

159
00:07:46,553 --> 00:07:48,685
when a shipwrecked
Venetian merchant

160
00:07:48,729 --> 00:07:50,731
went home with a gift
of dried fish

161
00:07:50,774 --> 00:07:53,081
and instructions
on what to do with it.

162
00:07:53,124 --> 00:07:56,519
♪

163
00:07:56,563 --> 00:08:00,784
I'll try the baccala mantecato.
Si.

164
00:08:00,828 --> 00:08:04,396
The fish is whipped
with a little sunflower oil,

165
00:08:04,440 --> 00:08:07,530
its creaminess coming
from the cod's own gelatin.

166
00:08:07,574 --> 00:08:09,793
It's available
everywhere in the city--

167
00:08:09,837 --> 00:08:13,318
a snack that is to Venice
what pizza is to Naples.

168
00:08:13,362 --> 00:08:14,363
It's really good.

169
00:08:14,406 --> 00:08:16,104
And if you come to Venice,

170
00:08:16,147 --> 00:08:18,454
you could just sort of eat like
this throughout the entire day.

171
00:08:18,498 --> 00:08:19,760
You don't even have to go
to a restaurant,

172
00:08:19,803 --> 00:08:21,675
but you should go
to a restaurant.

173
00:08:21,718 --> 00:08:23,938
But if you don't want to,
you can do this.

174
00:08:23,981 --> 00:08:25,722
♪

175
00:08:25,766 --> 00:08:28,769
I'm giving you that permission.

176
00:08:28,812 --> 00:08:31,380
And I have something
stuck in my mouth.

177
00:08:36,254 --> 00:08:38,169
[upbeat music]

178
00:08:38,213 --> 00:08:41,608
- At first light, Venice
is already up and working.

179
00:08:41,651 --> 00:08:44,785
Around 50,000 people
live in the old city,

180
00:08:44,828 --> 00:08:47,004
and they all want
to eat something fresh.

181
00:08:47,048 --> 00:08:48,963
Some of it comes
from far away,

182
00:08:49,006 --> 00:08:51,792
but a great deal of it
comes from the lagoon.

183
00:08:51,835 --> 00:08:53,489
It's their pantry.

184
00:08:53,533 --> 00:08:55,578
♪

185
00:08:55,622 --> 00:08:58,755
[bell tolling]

186
00:08:58,799 --> 00:09:03,194
I'm meeting my old friend,
Chef Gianni Scappin.

187
00:09:03,238 --> 00:09:04,935
Gianni.
Oh, my God.

188
00:09:04,979 --> 00:09:06,110
- Stanley.

189
00:09:06,154 --> 00:09:07,372
- Everything okay?
- Yes.

190
00:09:07,416 --> 00:09:08,722
- Good.
- How about you?

191
00:09:08,765 --> 00:09:10,114
- Let's go.
We'll go to the boat.

192
00:09:10,158 --> 00:09:11,899
We met many years ago

193
00:09:11,942 --> 00:09:14,379
when he was the food advisor
on a movie I made

194
00:09:14,423 --> 00:09:15,337
called "Big Night."

195
00:09:15,380 --> 00:09:17,426
Ciao.

196
00:09:17,469 --> 00:09:19,123
Do I give this to you?
Okay.

197
00:09:19,167 --> 00:09:20,603
All right.
Grazie.

198
00:09:20,647 --> 00:09:22,605
All right.
Let's go!

199
00:09:22,649 --> 00:09:24,607
Veneto born and raised,

200
00:09:24,651 --> 00:09:27,697
Gianni is going to cook
a Venetian classic with me--

201
00:09:27,741 --> 00:09:30,700
risotto al nero di seppia.

202
00:09:32,354 --> 00:09:34,486
Yes?

203
00:09:34,530 --> 00:09:36,271
No. I think it's good.

204
00:09:36,314 --> 00:09:38,752
The ingredients
are just a boat ride away

205
00:09:38,795 --> 00:09:40,797
across the Grand Canal.

206
00:09:43,321 --> 00:09:44,627
I don't understand it.

207
00:09:44,671 --> 00:09:47,282
I literally
don't understand it.

208
00:09:47,325 --> 00:09:48,892
No.
Insane.

209
00:09:51,242 --> 00:09:53,549
♪

210
00:09:53,593 --> 00:09:55,812
Have you been
to this market before?

211
00:09:55,856 --> 00:09:58,598
- Yes. It is very old market.
- Yes.

212
00:09:58,641 --> 00:09:59,990
That's an understatement.

213
00:10:00,034 --> 00:10:02,602
The Rialto Fish Market
has been here

214
00:10:02,645 --> 00:10:04,995
for 1,000 years.

215
00:10:05,039 --> 00:10:07,432
Here, you're rubbing shoulders
with home cooks

216
00:10:07,476 --> 00:10:09,521
and restauranteurs.

217
00:10:09,565 --> 00:10:11,567
Oh, my God.
Look at that.

218
00:10:11,611 --> 00:10:12,786
- Still alive, yeah?

219
00:10:15,484 --> 00:10:16,746
- Si.
- Si, si.

220
00:10:16,790 --> 00:10:17,965
♪

221
00:10:18,008 --> 00:10:19,488
- And wait.
What are these?

222
00:10:19,531 --> 00:10:21,055
- It's like a tiny,
tiny shrimp,

223
00:10:21,098 --> 00:10:23,274
and they are so tiny
that you don't clean anything.

224
00:10:23,318 --> 00:10:24,580
- You don't have to clean 'em.

225
00:10:24,624 --> 00:10:26,626
Yeah, you just eat
the whole thing.

226
00:10:26,669 --> 00:10:29,890
Okay, so that's cuttlefish.
- Cuttlefish.

227
00:10:29,933 --> 00:10:31,631
- And that's what
we're here for.

228
00:10:31,674 --> 00:10:34,677
Cuttlefish is a cousin
of the squid and the octopus.

229
00:10:34,721 --> 00:10:36,461
This is squid.
- Squid.

230
00:10:36,505 --> 00:10:38,028
- But this also has ink.

231
00:10:38,072 --> 00:10:40,901
- It does, and some people
confuse the--

232
00:10:40,944 --> 00:10:42,467
you know, risotto nero
di seppia--

233
00:10:42,511 --> 00:10:44,861
they use squid because they
cannot find the cuttlefish,

234
00:10:44,905 --> 00:10:46,863
but a Venetian will tell you,

235
00:10:46,907 --> 00:10:50,171
"No, you have to use
cuttlefish."

236
00:10:50,214 --> 00:10:52,782
- "Seppia" is Italian
for "cuttlefish,"

237
00:10:52,826 --> 00:10:55,089
and its ink
is a key ingredient.

238
00:10:55,132 --> 00:10:56,612
- Seppia...

239
00:10:59,441 --> 00:11:00,616
- Si.

240
00:11:08,929 --> 00:11:10,495
- Yeah,
so let's get the little ones.

241
00:11:10,539 --> 00:11:11,714
- Yeah.

242
00:11:13,760 --> 00:11:18,634
- First, you have to extract
the ink sac unpunctured.

243
00:11:18,678 --> 00:11:22,551
It's easy if you're
a tenth-generation fishmonger.

244
00:11:22,594 --> 00:11:25,075
It looks like a pearl.

245
00:11:25,119 --> 00:11:28,905
The precious ink is used
to stain the risotto black,

246
00:11:28,949 --> 00:11:32,517
making the dish as theatrical
as Venice itself.

247
00:11:32,561 --> 00:11:35,912
[all chuckling]

248
00:11:38,785 --> 00:11:42,702
For our two-person feast,
we're buying ten cuttlefish

249
00:11:42,745 --> 00:11:45,313
then heading to my hotel
to cook.

250
00:11:45,356 --> 00:11:47,924
But the problem is,
I just want to buy all of it.

251
00:11:47,968 --> 00:11:49,839
I want to buy all of it,
but I can't.

252
00:11:49,883 --> 00:11:51,188
I'm staying in a hotel.
I can't.

253
00:11:51,232 --> 00:11:53,103
- [chuckles] Not a good idea.
- I can't.

254
00:11:53,147 --> 00:11:56,367
This fabulous dish
is identified with Venice

255
00:11:56,411 --> 00:11:59,936
because there are so many
cuttlefish in the lagoon.

256
00:11:59,980 --> 00:12:02,417
Maybe it's also because
the whole fish is used,

257
00:12:02,460 --> 00:12:03,940
and despite their wealth,

258
00:12:03,984 --> 00:12:06,290
the Venetians are
a thrifty people.

259
00:12:06,334 --> 00:12:09,859
But we haven't been in a
kitchen together for 20 years.

260
00:12:09,903 --> 00:12:11,687
Did we even cook at my house?

261
00:12:11,731 --> 00:12:13,950
- I think we did with your mom,
your dad.

262
00:12:13,994 --> 00:12:15,517
You know,
your mom was the boss.

263
00:12:15,560 --> 00:12:18,476
She was very judgmental.
- [laughs]

264
00:12:18,520 --> 00:12:22,829
- So cuttlefish risotto
is a three-stage process,

265
00:12:22,872 --> 00:12:24,831
one of them very messy.

266
00:12:24,874 --> 00:12:28,008
- Just very gently, because you
don't want to break the sac.

267
00:12:28,051 --> 00:12:29,923
Look, see?
- Where is the sac?

268
00:12:29,966 --> 00:12:31,272
If you try it at home,

269
00:12:31,315 --> 00:12:33,100
be prepared to repaint
afterwards.

270
00:12:33,143 --> 00:12:34,884
Oh, shit, oh, shit.
- You just push--

271
00:12:34,928 --> 00:12:36,581
- I broke it.
- Great.

272
00:12:36,625 --> 00:12:38,018
- Anyway, if there were people

273
00:12:38,061 --> 00:12:39,541
that knew what they were
doing here, it would work.

274
00:12:39,584 --> 00:12:40,760
- Yeah. Exactly.

275
00:12:40,803 --> 00:12:43,110
Squeeze it down.

276
00:12:43,153 --> 00:12:45,939
- As well as the cuttles,
we bought fish heads, tails,

277
00:12:45,982 --> 00:12:50,204
and other bits to make a stock
that we'll use in the rice.

278
00:12:50,247 --> 00:12:51,858
Aren't those pieces
too big, though?

279
00:12:51,901 --> 00:12:53,685
- But they will braise.

280
00:12:53,729 --> 00:12:55,122
We're gonna break down
the fiber...

281
00:12:55,165 --> 00:12:57,037
- Okay.
- Become super, super tender.

282
00:12:57,080 --> 00:12:59,387
- Okay.

283
00:12:59,430 --> 00:13:02,738
- White wine.
- I like to bring--go ahead.

284
00:13:02,782 --> 00:13:04,305
That's good.

285
00:13:04,348 --> 00:13:06,873
Now we can put a little bit
of the passato di pomodoro.

286
00:13:06,916 --> 00:13:09,745
Not too much, 'cause, remember,
it's all about the black ink.

287
00:13:09,789 --> 00:13:12,487
♪

288
00:13:12,530 --> 00:13:14,532
Now we put the stock.
- Okay.

289
00:13:14,576 --> 00:13:17,274
- You can cover until they
become nice and tender.

290
00:13:17,318 --> 00:13:18,798
- So that's stage one.

291
00:13:18,841 --> 00:13:20,408
With the cuttlefish
tenderizing,

292
00:13:20,451 --> 00:13:22,453
now it's time for the rice.

293
00:13:22,497 --> 00:13:24,064
- So do you have the onion?

294
00:13:24,107 --> 00:13:25,587
Oh, let me see.
Yeah, it's getting hot enough.

295
00:13:25,630 --> 00:13:27,197
- Uh-huh.

296
00:13:27,241 --> 00:13:30,418
- So you want to make sure
you coat the rice with the fat.

297
00:13:30,461 --> 00:13:33,421
- Arborio is the famous
risotto rice,

298
00:13:33,464 --> 00:13:35,640
but Gianni has chosen
something richer.

299
00:13:35,684 --> 00:13:37,207
It's turning white
in the center.

300
00:13:37,251 --> 00:13:39,079
- Yeah, this is all like a--
- And that's what you want.

301
00:13:39,122 --> 00:13:39,949
- Yes.
- Yeah.

302
00:13:39,993 --> 00:13:41,995
This rice is carnaroli.

303
00:13:42,038 --> 00:13:44,432
- I'm gonna start
putting my stock.

304
00:13:44,475 --> 00:13:46,434
♪

305
00:13:46,477 --> 00:13:48,392
So there you go.

306
00:13:48,436 --> 00:13:50,786
- Final stage--
shuttle fish into rice.

307
00:13:50,830 --> 00:13:51,874
- Pasty stuff.

308
00:13:51,918 --> 00:13:53,397
- Do you want me
to put it all in?

309
00:13:53,441 --> 00:13:54,834
- Yeah.

310
00:13:54,877 --> 00:13:56,009
- The more ink,
the blacker the rice.

311
00:13:56,052 --> 00:13:57,837
- You see the pasty stuff
on the bottom?

312
00:13:57,880 --> 00:13:58,881
- Oh, yeah. Yeah, yeah.

313
00:13:58,925 --> 00:14:00,622
- That's probably
very concentrate.

314
00:14:00,665 --> 00:14:02,319
- Thanks to the spillages,
our limited supply of ink

315
00:14:02,363 --> 00:14:05,453
gives us
a fashionable gray beige.

316
00:14:05,496 --> 00:14:07,847
- This, as you can see,
we just call it all'onda,

317
00:14:07,890 --> 00:14:09,979
which is we create a big wave.

318
00:14:10,023 --> 00:14:13,113
♪

319
00:14:13,156 --> 00:14:15,289
And then the cheese.

320
00:14:15,332 --> 00:14:16,986
- Parmigiano.

321
00:14:17,030 --> 00:14:20,555
- Right in the center.
- Oh, that looks so good.

322
00:14:20,598 --> 00:14:27,431
♪

323
00:14:27,475 --> 00:14:28,693
Mmm.
- Tender, right?

324
00:14:28,737 --> 00:14:29,869
- Mm, yeah.
Perfect.

325
00:14:29,912 --> 00:14:31,087
- They're not mushy.

326
00:14:31,131 --> 00:14:32,219
- Yeah, not chewy, not mushy.
- No.

327
00:14:32,262 --> 00:14:33,524
And at the end,

328
00:14:33,568 --> 00:14:35,091
you taste the actual
cuttlefish flavor, right?

329
00:14:35,135 --> 00:14:37,485
Just coming in.
- Yeah. You do.

330
00:14:37,528 --> 00:14:38,790
That's delicious.

331
00:14:38,834 --> 00:14:40,923
But also,
the rice is perfectly cooked.

332
00:14:40,967 --> 00:14:43,795
So this is a quintessential...

333
00:14:43,839 --> 00:14:45,145
- It is a classic
Venetian food.

334
00:14:45,188 --> 00:14:46,624
- I'm very happy
to see you again.

335
00:14:46,668 --> 00:14:49,018
- Hug again?
- Yeah. Sure.

336
00:14:49,062 --> 00:14:50,585
- Thank you.
- [chuckles]

337
00:14:50,628 --> 00:14:54,067
Risotto al nero di seppia
is so great,

338
00:14:54,110 --> 00:14:55,938
it's claimed
by some neighboring countries

339
00:14:55,982 --> 00:14:57,679
as their invention.

340
00:14:57,722 --> 00:15:00,160
We can't really know,
but in the Venetian cookbook,

341
00:15:00,203 --> 00:15:03,772
the ink's been dry
for a very long time.

342
00:15:08,646 --> 00:15:10,561
[upbeat music]

343
00:15:10,605 --> 00:15:13,173
♪

344
00:15:13,216 --> 00:15:16,480
- In the fall, the soft light
in Piazza San Marco

345
00:15:16,524 --> 00:15:19,614
makes it easy to step back
more than 1,000 years

346
00:15:19,657 --> 00:15:22,138
to the start
of the Venetian Republic.

347
00:15:22,182 --> 00:15:26,969
It was ruled by the doge,
a sort of elected city boss.

348
00:15:27,013 --> 00:15:29,972
Back then,
a favorite fall delicacy,

349
00:15:30,016 --> 00:15:33,628
eaten by doge
and commoner alike, was duck.

350
00:15:33,671 --> 00:15:35,325
Today, eaten with pasta,

351
00:15:35,369 --> 00:15:37,545
it's still a warm treat
for the cold months,

352
00:15:37,588 --> 00:15:41,462
when Venetians have always
hunted birds for the pot.

353
00:15:41,505 --> 00:15:43,986
To find out more
about their fowl habits,

354
00:15:44,030 --> 00:15:46,597
I've come to Harry's Bar...

355
00:15:46,641 --> 00:15:48,208
Grazie.

356
00:15:48,251 --> 00:15:50,950
Favorite of Ernest Hemingway,
writer, drinker,

357
00:15:50,993 --> 00:15:52,386
and duck hunter.

358
00:15:52,429 --> 00:15:55,476
The house martini
is named after him.

359
00:15:55,519 --> 00:15:57,217
That's good.

360
00:15:57,260 --> 00:15:58,870
♪

361
00:15:58,914 --> 00:16:00,524
- Stanley...
Nice to see you.

362
00:16:00,568 --> 00:16:02,222
- Nice to see you, too.
- Great to see you.

363
00:16:02,265 --> 00:16:04,180
- Thank you for coming here.
- Glad you're in Venice.

364
00:16:04,224 --> 00:16:07,357
- Do you want water?
Martini?

365
00:16:07,401 --> 00:16:09,969
- Maybe water and martini
and a coffee as well.

366
00:16:10,012 --> 00:16:11,535
[laughter]

367
00:16:11,579 --> 00:16:14,495
- Andrea di Robilant
is a Venetian historian

368
00:16:14,538 --> 00:16:17,106
with a passion
for duck and hunting.

369
00:16:17,150 --> 00:16:20,370
- It was a great tradition
of the doge...

370
00:16:20,414 --> 00:16:21,545
- Yeah.

371
00:16:21,589 --> 00:16:23,895
- The ruling authority
here in Venice,

372
00:16:23,939 --> 00:16:25,941
to donate five ducks...
- That's right.

373
00:16:25,985 --> 00:16:30,250
- To every member of the main
legislative body in Venice,

374
00:16:30,293 --> 00:16:33,427
but there were
about 1,000 of them,

375
00:16:33,470 --> 00:16:35,342
so it meant 5,000 ducks.

376
00:16:35,385 --> 00:16:37,039
- 5,000 ducks?

377
00:16:37,083 --> 00:16:39,259
- 5,000 ducks before Christmas.

378
00:16:39,302 --> 00:16:41,957
So imagine the rush.

379
00:16:42,001 --> 00:16:45,178
They had special
state-run boats

380
00:16:45,221 --> 00:16:48,181
that would go out in the lagoon
and shoot these ducks

381
00:16:48,224 --> 00:16:50,357
so that they would make sure
that they had

382
00:16:50,400 --> 00:16:51,793
a big enough supply.

383
00:16:51,836 --> 00:16:53,273
- Whoa.

384
00:16:53,316 --> 00:16:56,537
- And there are some
beautiful paintings...

385
00:16:56,580 --> 00:16:59,496
Venetian artists depicting
these scenes in the lagoon.

386
00:16:59,540 --> 00:17:03,239
They would serve these ducks
in any kind of...

387
00:17:03,283 --> 00:17:05,372
you know,
there was duck fricassee,

388
00:17:05,415 --> 00:17:07,026
stewed duck, roast duck.

389
00:17:07,069 --> 00:17:08,853
- Duck-duck.
- All sorts of quack-quack.

390
00:17:08,897 --> 00:17:11,073
[laughter]

391
00:17:11,117 --> 00:17:13,554
- Oh, my God.
- So, yeah.

392
00:17:13,597 --> 00:17:16,209
- To reach the doge's
happy hunting ground,

393
00:17:16,252 --> 00:17:17,949
you head west out of the city

394
00:17:17,993 --> 00:17:20,343
about 20 miles
as the duck flies.

395
00:17:20,387 --> 00:17:22,128
♪

396
00:17:22,171 --> 00:17:25,609
It's an environment hard
to describe as mainland.

397
00:17:25,653 --> 00:17:28,308
The solid-to-liquid ratio
shifts

398
00:17:28,351 --> 00:17:30,658
and becomes a vast wetland.

399
00:17:30,701 --> 00:17:32,616
♪

400
00:17:32,660 --> 00:17:34,575
[ducks quacking]

401
00:17:36,272 --> 00:17:37,839
[groans softly]

402
00:17:37,882 --> 00:17:40,233
I'm absolutely frozen.

403
00:17:40,276 --> 00:17:42,365
Okay, for this kind of hunt,

404
00:17:42,409 --> 00:17:44,106
you have to get up
before the ducks,

405
00:17:44,150 --> 00:17:46,587
andthey get up
before daybreak.

406
00:17:48,154 --> 00:17:52,071
I wish I had brought some
of those hand-warmer things.

407
00:17:52,114 --> 00:17:54,595
- The first time for you?
- Yes. First time.

408
00:17:54,638 --> 00:17:57,119
- Important is that
you manage the coffee.

409
00:17:57,163 --> 00:17:58,990
- Oh. [laughs]
- I manage the rest.

410
00:17:59,034 --> 00:18:00,862
- [chuckling] Okay.
- Okay?

411
00:18:00,905 --> 00:18:02,603
♪

412
00:18:02,646 --> 00:18:04,213
- I had no idea we'd start

413
00:18:04,257 --> 00:18:06,085
with a lake full
of sitting ducks.

414
00:18:06,128 --> 00:18:07,999
Actually,
they're wooden decoys,

415
00:18:08,043 --> 00:18:10,611
and they'll encourage
the real thing to drop by.

416
00:18:10,654 --> 00:18:12,613
So me in here?
Okay.

417
00:18:12,656 --> 00:18:15,964
My host, Oliver Martini,
aptly named,

418
00:18:16,007 --> 00:18:18,227
is by day a top businessman.

419
00:18:18,271 --> 00:18:21,012
In the past,
he might have made doge.

420
00:18:21,056 --> 00:18:23,276
- Now the autumn is particular

421
00:18:23,319 --> 00:18:26,279
because many ducks
arrive from the north,

422
00:18:26,322 --> 00:18:30,065
and they stay here until March.

423
00:18:30,109 --> 00:18:31,936
- There's thousands of them.
- Yeah.

424
00:18:31,980 --> 00:18:35,201
Okay, now we try to catch some,
otherwise you don't eat.

425
00:18:35,244 --> 00:18:37,290
[duck call sounding]

426
00:18:37,333 --> 00:18:39,857
- Most of these ducks
are mallards...

427
00:18:39,901 --> 00:18:42,164
[gunshots]

428
00:18:42,208 --> 00:18:43,644
And so numerous,

429
00:18:43,687 --> 00:18:46,168
they're officially listed
as unendangered.

430
00:18:46,212 --> 00:18:48,301
Obviously,
these particular specimens

431
00:18:48,344 --> 00:18:50,912
are in quite a lot of danger.

432
00:18:50,955 --> 00:18:53,175
- The dog will find him.

433
00:18:53,219 --> 00:18:54,959
- This isn't just for sport.

434
00:18:55,003 --> 00:18:58,093
Every duck shot here
is destined for the table.

435
00:18:58,137 --> 00:19:01,444
♪

436
00:19:01,488 --> 00:19:04,665
So how many did you get?
Eight? Ten?

437
00:19:04,708 --> 00:19:06,406
- 15.
- 15?

438
00:19:06,449 --> 00:19:08,277
Jesus.

439
00:19:08,321 --> 00:19:12,716
That's a good lunch.
[both chuckle]

440
00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:15,545
The doge's men hunted
in an age

441
00:19:15,589 --> 00:19:18,374
before conservation
was a hot topic.

442
00:19:18,418 --> 00:19:21,986
Oliver sees his role
as environmental management

443
00:19:22,030 --> 00:19:23,640
and animal husbandry.

444
00:19:23,684 --> 00:19:28,471
- We having in Veneto
about 500,000 ducks.

445
00:19:28,515 --> 00:19:30,560
The population
is increasing a lot.

446
00:19:30,604 --> 00:19:32,910
- Over the last...
- 10, 15 years.

447
00:19:32,954 --> 00:19:37,219
10 times more than
10 years ago.

448
00:19:37,263 --> 00:19:40,396
So here the job to conserve

449
00:19:40,440 --> 00:19:43,312
and improve the environment
is all what we do.

450
00:19:52,016 --> 00:19:54,280
How do you say "magical"
in Italian?

451
00:19:54,323 --> 00:19:55,542
- Magico.

452
00:19:55,585 --> 00:19:57,152
- That's how you say it?
both: Magico.

453
00:19:57,196 --> 00:20:00,329
- The same.
- Unbelievable.

454
00:20:00,373 --> 00:20:01,809
[chuckles]

455
00:20:01,852 --> 00:20:04,507
♪

456
00:20:04,551 --> 00:20:08,250
Just across the lagoon
is the island of Torcello,

457
00:20:08,294 --> 00:20:09,817
renowned as the place

458
00:20:09,860 --> 00:20:12,428
where the people
who built Venice first lived.

459
00:20:12,472 --> 00:20:14,474
[person speaking Italian]
Grazie.

460
00:20:14,517 --> 00:20:17,477
I've come to the restaurant
Villa Seicento,

461
00:20:17,520 --> 00:20:19,435
where its chef, Nicola Codolo,

462
00:20:19,479 --> 00:20:22,046
is from a family
of duck hunters.

463
00:20:22,090 --> 00:20:25,354
A third-generation duck lover,
he's cooking his take

464
00:20:25,398 --> 00:20:30,011
on the Venetian classic
sugo d'anatra, or duck ragu.

465
00:20:30,054 --> 00:20:34,450
The elements are simple--
onions, carrot, celery, thyme,

466
00:20:34,494 --> 00:20:37,801
and bay leaf are
sauteed in olive oil.

467
00:20:37,845 --> 00:20:41,631
A simple stock made
with the bones stands ready.

468
00:20:41,675 --> 00:20:44,417
The chopped duck is gently
browned with the stock

469
00:20:44,460 --> 00:20:46,549
in a little white wine,
then it's slow-cooked,

470
00:20:46,593 --> 00:20:50,423
because wild birds
can be tough.

471
00:20:50,466 --> 00:20:53,339
The scent of sugo d'anatra

472
00:20:53,382 --> 00:20:55,602
has lured Andrea
across the lagoon.

473
00:20:55,645 --> 00:21:00,346
You have no idea how tired I am
from hunting.

474
00:21:00,389 --> 00:21:01,999
- Let's hear about it.
- Yeah.

475
00:21:02,043 --> 00:21:03,784
- I hope you didn't go out in
the lagoon dressed like that.

476
00:21:03,827 --> 00:21:05,264
- No, I didn't.
- Didn't change your clothes.

477
00:21:05,307 --> 00:21:07,222
- No. I was dressed
appropriately, yeah.

478
00:21:07,266 --> 00:21:08,615
But that landscape--

479
00:21:08,658 --> 00:21:10,356
I really had no idea
that that landscape existed

480
00:21:10,399 --> 00:21:11,618
outside of Venice.

481
00:21:11,661 --> 00:21:13,359
- Yeah.
- I had never seen it before.

482
00:21:13,402 --> 00:21:16,013
- Since the very beginning
of Venetian history,

483
00:21:16,057 --> 00:21:17,319
men have shot ducks.

484
00:21:17,363 --> 00:21:19,365
That's why there are
so many recipes.

485
00:21:19,408 --> 00:21:20,757
- Yeah, yeah.

486
00:21:20,801 --> 00:21:22,411
♪

487
00:21:22,455 --> 00:21:26,285
This dish refers back
to the days of the doges.

488
00:21:26,328 --> 00:21:29,549
Old recipes feature nutmeg,
cinnamon, and saffron.

489
00:21:29,592 --> 00:21:32,682
Today Chef Codolo
plays with tradition,

490
00:21:32,726 --> 00:21:36,338
switching noodle-shaped
bigoli pasta for gnocchi.

491
00:21:36,382 --> 00:21:37,383
[bell dings]

492
00:21:37,426 --> 00:21:39,689
- Ah, look.
- Well...

493
00:21:39,733 --> 00:21:41,735
- The result of
your duck shooting, no less.

494
00:21:41,778 --> 00:21:43,432
- [chuckling] Yeah.
- [chuckles]

495
00:21:43,476 --> 00:21:45,869
Buon appetito.
- Buon appetito.

496
00:21:45,913 --> 00:21:47,001
- Mm.

497
00:21:47,044 --> 00:21:48,350
- Yeah.
- This is good.

498
00:21:48,394 --> 00:21:51,222
- Okay, I'd eat that, yeah.
That's really good.

499
00:21:51,266 --> 00:21:52,702
- It's really tender,
the duck.

500
00:21:52,746 --> 00:21:55,401
- It has, like,
a sweetness to it.

501
00:21:55,444 --> 00:21:57,359
What is that?
- The carrots, the carrots.

502
00:21:57,403 --> 00:21:59,796
- It's the carrots?
- Yeah.

503
00:21:59,840 --> 00:22:01,972
Gnocchi works
very well with it, I think.

504
00:22:02,016 --> 00:22:03,583
- Yeah.

505
00:22:03,626 --> 00:22:05,367
- It's quite a rich taste.
- Yeah, yeah.

506
00:22:05,411 --> 00:22:07,238
- So you don't need
a lot of it.

507
00:22:07,282 --> 00:22:08,805
- Right,
and so that whole experience

508
00:22:08,849 --> 00:22:11,939
of the lagoon and, you know,
and early morning

509
00:22:11,982 --> 00:22:14,898
and the nature, all of that
is captured by this.

510
00:22:14,942 --> 00:22:16,552
- Yeah.

511
00:22:16,596 --> 00:22:19,381
Venetians have always thrived
on a diet of fish,

512
00:22:19,425 --> 00:22:20,861
but when fall beckons,

513
00:22:20,904 --> 00:22:22,819
their friends out
in the Veneto marshes

514
00:22:22,863 --> 00:22:24,908
have supplied
an alternative protein--

515
00:22:24,952 --> 00:22:29,217
duck fit for a king,
or at least a doge.

516
00:22:34,091 --> 00:22:36,485
[upbeat music]

517
00:22:36,529 --> 00:22:38,357
- At the height
of its success,

518
00:22:38,400 --> 00:22:40,881
Venice was called
La Serenissima--

519
00:22:40,924 --> 00:22:42,578
"the most serene."

520
00:22:42,622 --> 00:22:45,538
It still is, despite
the fact that every few years,

521
00:22:45,581 --> 00:22:48,410
the Adriatic Sea floats in.

522
00:22:48,454 --> 00:22:50,891
Maurizio?
[both chuckle]

523
00:22:52,501 --> 00:22:56,070
Journalist Maurizio Danese
knows the trials

524
00:22:56,113 --> 00:22:58,072
of living by and in the sea

525
00:22:58,115 --> 00:23:01,510
and also the best place
to eat scartosso.

526
00:23:01,554 --> 00:23:04,470
Like Venice,
this delicious street food,

527
00:23:04,513 --> 00:23:06,515
a jumble of fried calamari,

528
00:23:06,559 --> 00:23:10,606
becomes more delicious
from a final dose of sea salt.

529
00:23:10,650 --> 00:23:13,304
Oh, wow.

530
00:23:17,091 --> 00:23:18,266
Si.

531
00:23:26,753 --> 00:23:27,841
Si.

532
00:23:35,501 --> 00:23:37,285
[laughter]

533
00:23:37,328 --> 00:23:38,591
Yes. Yeah.

534
00:23:38,634 --> 00:23:40,506
♪

535
00:23:40,549 --> 00:23:42,812
For as long
as Venice has existed,

536
00:23:42,856 --> 00:23:46,076
every four years or so,
extra-high tides in fall

537
00:23:46,120 --> 00:23:48,644
and spring have done this.

538
00:23:48,688 --> 00:23:50,820
It's called theacqua alta.

539
00:23:50,864 --> 00:23:54,302
1966 was the worst
in living memory.

540
00:23:54,345 --> 00:23:58,828
2019 established a record
for this century.

541
00:23:58,872 --> 00:24:02,528
And, says Maurizio,
the seawater has a legacy.

542
00:24:18,152 --> 00:24:19,762
It's all salt?

543
00:24:21,938 --> 00:24:23,331
[both chuckle]

544
00:24:23,374 --> 00:24:25,202
'Cause they weren't
salty enough.

545
00:24:25,246 --> 00:24:26,900
[chuckles]

546
00:24:26,943 --> 00:24:28,945
♪

547
00:24:28,989 --> 00:24:31,339
The people of the lagoon
are adaptable.

548
00:24:31,382 --> 00:24:33,123
They have to be.

549
00:24:33,167 --> 00:24:36,736
On the island of Mazzorbo,
they regularly get wet feet.

550
00:24:36,779 --> 00:24:38,477
♪

551
00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:40,609
Five miles
northeast of Venice,

552
00:24:40,653 --> 00:24:43,699
the place comprises
a few homes, farmland,

553
00:24:43,743 --> 00:24:45,135
and a medieval vineyard

554
00:24:45,179 --> 00:24:48,487
that's been flooded
hundreds of times.

555
00:24:48,530 --> 00:24:50,532
How do you grow vines
in a place

556
00:24:50,576 --> 00:24:53,622
where the roots
are soaking in brine?

557
00:24:57,060 --> 00:24:58,714
Matteo Bisol's family

558
00:24:58,758 --> 00:25:02,109
has been making wine
in the Veneto since 1542.

559
00:25:02,152 --> 00:25:03,980
- Italy's full of vineyard,
but this is...

560
00:25:04,024 --> 00:25:05,765
- I've heard that, yes.
- Quite special.

561
00:25:05,808 --> 00:25:08,768
This is a vineyard
of dorona grape.

562
00:25:08,811 --> 00:25:10,160
- Dorona?
- Yes.

563
00:25:10,204 --> 00:25:11,640
This grape variety, dorona,

564
00:25:11,684 --> 00:25:14,556
adapt itself to survive
exactly in this place,

565
00:25:14,600 --> 00:25:17,341
so this is why
you can find this variety

566
00:25:17,385 --> 00:25:18,995
only in the lagoon of Venice.

567
00:25:19,039 --> 00:25:20,649
- Really?
- Yeah.

568
00:25:20,693 --> 00:25:23,304
- For centuries, Venetians
drank this local wine,

569
00:25:23,347 --> 00:25:24,871
but the grape was the victim

570
00:25:24,914 --> 00:25:27,221
of their increasingly
sophisticated tastes.

571
00:25:27,264 --> 00:25:30,267
Dorona went extinct,
or so they thought.

572
00:25:30,311 --> 00:25:34,184
In 2001, Matteo's father
found a few surviving plants

573
00:25:34,228 --> 00:25:36,012
and brought them here.

574
00:25:36,056 --> 00:25:38,058
No sooner had the vineyard
started producing

575
00:25:38,101 --> 00:25:41,714
than the 2019
acqua alta arrived.

576
00:25:41,757 --> 00:25:43,803
- Acqua altaand the salt,

577
00:25:43,846 --> 00:25:45,761
it's a big stress for the vine.
- Right.

578
00:25:45,805 --> 00:25:47,807
- But this is very important
for quality,

579
00:25:47,850 --> 00:25:49,591
because to produce
very good wine,

580
00:25:49,635 --> 00:25:50,723
it's important
that there has to be

581
00:25:50,766 --> 00:25:52,507
a little stress for the vine.

582
00:25:52,551 --> 00:25:53,726
- No pain, no wine.
- No pain, no gain.

583
00:25:53,769 --> 00:25:56,076
[both chuckling]
No pain, no wine.

584
00:25:56,119 --> 00:25:58,078
We start with Venissa.

585
00:25:58,121 --> 00:26:01,864
- First,
we try a pre-flood bottle.

586
00:26:01,908 --> 00:26:02,909
That's amazing.

587
00:26:02,952 --> 00:26:04,911
It's really fresh.

588
00:26:04,954 --> 00:26:08,218
It's dry, and it's soft.
It's so soft.

589
00:26:08,262 --> 00:26:09,611
- Yeah.

590
00:26:09,655 --> 00:26:11,570
- And, understandably,
not inexpensive.

591
00:26:11,613 --> 00:26:14,529
♪

592
00:26:16,096 --> 00:26:18,620
- This is very special.
- Is it? Oh.

593
00:26:18,664 --> 00:26:20,709
- This is 2020 vintage.

594
00:26:20,753 --> 00:26:24,060
- It's way too early to taste
theacqua alta vintage,

595
00:26:24,104 --> 00:26:25,453
but we do anyway.

596
00:26:25,496 --> 00:26:28,369
- Yeah.
- Okay. Cheers.

597
00:26:28,412 --> 00:26:31,067
♪

598
00:26:31,111 --> 00:26:34,636
It's literally
like licking a rock.

599
00:26:34,680 --> 00:26:35,811
- But you can feel
that this guy

600
00:26:35,855 --> 00:26:37,857
is going to be
something amazing,

601
00:26:37,900 --> 00:26:41,295
because the beauty
and the genius of Venice...

602
00:26:41,338 --> 00:26:42,731
- Of Venice.

603
00:26:42,775 --> 00:26:44,690
- To make something amazing
out of impossible.

604
00:26:44,733 --> 00:26:45,647
- Yeah.
[both chuckle]

605
00:26:45,691 --> 00:26:47,736
♪

606
00:26:47,780 --> 00:26:50,696
- Chef Chiara Pavan
also makes something amazing

607
00:26:50,739 --> 00:26:52,698
out of the apparently
impossible.

608
00:26:52,741 --> 00:26:54,917
She runs a restaurant
within the vineyard,

609
00:26:54,961 --> 00:26:59,705
cooking with things
that thrive in the salty soil.

610
00:26:59,748 --> 00:27:02,011
The restaurant
is called Venissa.

611
00:27:02,055 --> 00:27:04,710
Her food is of the lagoon
and about it.

612
00:27:04,753 --> 00:27:08,888
♪

613
00:27:08,931 --> 00:27:10,324
Hello?
- Hi.

614
00:27:10,367 --> 00:27:11,717
- Hi.
- Nice to meet you.

615
00:27:11,760 --> 00:27:14,589
- Good.
Nice to meet you, too.

616
00:27:14,633 --> 00:27:16,678
- I know you are
a very good cook, so...

617
00:27:16,722 --> 00:27:19,072
- Not like you.
- [chuckles]

618
00:27:19,115 --> 00:27:21,465
- No. I mean, I haven't tasted
your food yet,

619
00:27:21,509 --> 00:27:23,772
so, you know, we'll see.

620
00:27:23,816 --> 00:27:26,862
We'll just see what happens.
- [chuckles]

621
00:27:26,906 --> 00:27:28,864
- I know you have
a Michelin star, don't you?

622
00:27:28,908 --> 00:27:30,605
- Yeah, I do, but--
- That's pretty good. Yeah.

623
00:27:30,649 --> 00:27:33,652
- Michelin star is not my aim.
It's not my joy.

624
00:27:33,695 --> 00:27:34,870
- Right, right.

625
00:27:34,914 --> 00:27:37,699
- I mean, I like clients.
I like nature.

626
00:27:37,743 --> 00:27:40,136
- Yeah.
- I like cooking.

627
00:27:40,180 --> 00:27:41,877
- So what's cooking?

628
00:27:41,921 --> 00:27:44,706
It's spaghetti,
obviously, but--

629
00:27:44,750 --> 00:27:48,710
And what do you call this dish?
- We call it spago oro.

630
00:27:48,754 --> 00:27:50,233
- Golden spaghetti.

631
00:27:50,277 --> 00:27:52,409
This is not traditional.

632
00:27:52,453 --> 00:27:56,762
- With this dish, I want to
express the flavor of lagoon.

633
00:27:56,805 --> 00:27:59,242
So this is the garum.
- Yeah?

634
00:27:59,286 --> 00:28:01,114
Loved in the ancient world,

635
00:28:01,157 --> 00:28:05,248
garum is liquid fermented fish
with a delicate umami taste.

636
00:28:05,292 --> 00:28:06,989
Oh, you can really smell that.

637
00:28:07,033 --> 00:28:08,774
- The fish. Yeah.
- The garum. Yeah, yeah.

638
00:28:08,817 --> 00:28:13,387
- I give the sour flavor
with dorona grape.

639
00:28:13,430 --> 00:28:15,911
This is the unripe grapes.

640
00:28:15,955 --> 00:28:18,827
In French,
they call it verjus.

641
00:28:18,871 --> 00:28:19,959
- Oh, ver--
- Verjus.

642
00:28:20,002 --> 00:28:21,482
- Oh, I've heard of that.
Yes.

643
00:28:21,525 --> 00:28:22,962
- So try to open it.

644
00:28:23,005 --> 00:28:25,747
♪

645
00:28:25,791 --> 00:28:27,923
It's boiling.

646
00:28:27,967 --> 00:28:29,969
- It's boiling?
Is it fermenting?

647
00:28:30,012 --> 00:28:33,146
- Yeah, it's fermentation,
acid-lactic fermentation.

648
00:28:33,189 --> 00:28:36,105
- Chiara uses leftover
unripe dorona grapes

649
00:28:36,149 --> 00:28:38,238
from the vineyard
for her verjus

650
00:28:38,281 --> 00:28:41,632
that is soft and acidic,
like a light vinegar.

651
00:28:41,676 --> 00:28:44,418
What did you just put in there?
What was that you just put in?

652
00:28:44,461 --> 00:28:47,638
- Sea asparagus
and sea parsley.

653
00:28:47,682 --> 00:28:50,076
Please.
- So this is the sea asparagus.

654
00:28:50,119 --> 00:28:54,036
This is the Italian version
of samphire,

655
00:28:54,080 --> 00:28:58,258
which has a really great--
[chuckles]

656
00:28:58,301 --> 00:28:59,346
Salty.
- What happened?

657
00:28:59,389 --> 00:29:00,390
- No, no.
[clears throat]

658
00:29:00,434 --> 00:29:01,783
- [chuckles]
- Sale.

659
00:29:01,827 --> 00:29:04,699
It's very salty.
- Really?

660
00:29:04,743 --> 00:29:06,005
- But it's
incredibly delicious.

661
00:29:06,048 --> 00:29:08,355
♪

662
00:29:08,398 --> 00:29:10,009
Actual gold leaf,

663
00:29:10,052 --> 00:29:12,838
as used
by Renaissance artists.

664
00:29:12,881 --> 00:29:14,709
Stop it.

665
00:29:14,753 --> 00:29:20,846
♪

666
00:29:20,889 --> 00:29:23,065
[chuckling]
Oh, it's delicious.

667
00:29:23,109 --> 00:29:24,066
It's perfectly balanced.

668
00:29:24,110 --> 00:29:26,765
Creamy, unctuous.

669
00:29:26,808 --> 00:29:28,854
Wow. Wow!

670
00:29:28,897 --> 00:29:31,595
Balancing them
with sweet and sour tastes,

671
00:29:31,639 --> 00:29:34,860
Chiara transforms
salty ingredients into gold.

672
00:29:34,903 --> 00:29:37,906
It's culinary alchemy.

673
00:29:37,950 --> 00:29:39,995
I seek the deep.

674
00:29:40,039 --> 00:29:41,431
Oh, fantastico.

675
00:29:41,475 --> 00:29:43,825
Regularly dunk a community
in seawater

676
00:29:43,869 --> 00:29:45,566
for 1 1/2 millennia,

677
00:29:45,609 --> 00:29:48,003
and you'd expect them
to grow resilient.

678
00:29:48,047 --> 00:29:52,660
The Venetians always see
challenges as opportunities.

679
00:29:57,534 --> 00:29:59,449
[upbeat music]

680
00:29:59,493 --> 00:30:02,844
♪

681
00:30:02,888 --> 00:30:04,977
- For centuries,
wealthy Europeans

682
00:30:05,020 --> 00:30:07,849
depended on spices
to enliven their food.

683
00:30:07,893 --> 00:30:11,418
They came overland
from Asia and Arabia

684
00:30:11,461 --> 00:30:12,898
and entered through Venice.

685
00:30:12,941 --> 00:30:16,858
Spice was like gold,
only more valuable.

686
00:30:16,902 --> 00:30:19,121
I'm headed to the north
of the city

687
00:30:19,165 --> 00:30:21,602
and a district
called Cannaregio,

688
00:30:21,645 --> 00:30:24,344
one of the six oldest parts
of the city,

689
00:30:24,387 --> 00:30:26,259
which means it's very old,

690
00:30:26,302 --> 00:30:30,045
but it's home to something
new and very spicy.

691
00:30:31,742 --> 00:30:33,048
- Yes.
- Okay.

692
00:30:33,092 --> 00:30:34,920
- Hamed Ahmadi
is from Afghanistan.

693
00:30:34,963 --> 00:30:36,225
Having upset the Taliban,

694
00:30:36,269 --> 00:30:38,227
he was
in an Italian refugee camp

695
00:30:38,271 --> 00:30:40,882
when he dreamed
of giving Venetians this...

696
00:30:43,929 --> 00:30:45,452
The tastes and flavors

697
00:30:45,495 --> 00:30:47,933
of a place their ancestors
once traded with.

698
00:30:47,976 --> 00:30:51,806
His restaurant is called
Orient Experience.

699
00:30:54,156 --> 00:30:55,549
Hello.

700
00:30:55,592 --> 00:30:57,812
- Hey, good morning, Stanley.
- Hey. Good morning.

701
00:30:57,856 --> 00:30:59,074
How are you?
- I am fine, thank you.

702
00:30:59,118 --> 00:31:01,860
- Good. Nice to see you.
- Nice to see you.

703
00:31:01,903 --> 00:31:04,340
- Thanks for meeting me.
- Thanks for being here.

704
00:31:04,384 --> 00:31:06,560
- Buongiorno.
- Buongiorno.

705
00:31:06,603 --> 00:31:09,171
- Buongiorno.Thank you.
What are we drinking?

706
00:31:09,215 --> 00:31:11,608
- The original recipe
is from Iran,

707
00:31:11,652 --> 00:31:15,351
and it's a mixture of,
like, saffron, sugar water,

708
00:31:15,395 --> 00:31:18,702
and, obviously, some prosecco.
- [chuckles]

709
00:31:18,746 --> 00:31:20,400
Cheers, cheers.

710
00:31:24,752 --> 00:31:26,319
Wow. That's delicious.
- Yeah, yeah.

711
00:31:26,362 --> 00:31:27,973
- Yeah, I love it.

712
00:31:28,016 --> 00:31:29,757
- Would you like to see
some of my colleagues?

713
00:31:29,800 --> 00:31:30,889
- Yeah, sure. Why not?
- Let's go.

714
00:31:30,932 --> 00:31:32,455
- All right.
Let's go.

715
00:31:32,499 --> 00:31:34,588
Buongiorno.
- "Good morning," we're saying.

716
00:31:34,631 --> 00:31:37,460
- Hey. Hello.

717
00:31:37,504 --> 00:31:40,028
- Hello. Good morning, guys.
- Good morning.

718
00:31:42,204 --> 00:31:44,032
How are you?
Nice to meet you.

719
00:31:49,342 --> 00:31:50,909
Ravioli?
- Yeah.

720
00:32:01,528 --> 00:32:02,877
- Beautiful.

721
00:32:02,921 --> 00:32:04,357
How many different cuisines
are you cooking?

722
00:32:12,582 --> 00:32:15,150
Right, right.

723
00:32:18,501 --> 00:32:21,200
No, it's fantastic.

724
00:32:21,243 --> 00:32:24,638
Hamed's staff
are all former refugees.

725
00:32:24,681 --> 00:32:27,075
They keep the link
to their own cultures alive

726
00:32:27,119 --> 00:32:29,034
through the dishes they add
to the menu.

727
00:32:35,692 --> 00:32:37,477
Is it beef?

728
00:32:37,520 --> 00:32:38,957
Oh, wow.
Mmm.

729
00:32:42,134 --> 00:32:43,265
Right.

730
00:32:51,273 --> 00:32:52,231
Yeah.

731
00:33:00,587 --> 00:33:01,501
Yeah.

732
00:33:04,156 --> 00:33:05,635
Yeah, yeah.
That's great.

733
00:33:05,679 --> 00:33:06,985
- Yeah.
- That's great.

734
00:33:07,028 --> 00:33:09,857
♪

735
00:33:09,900 --> 00:33:11,511
Listen,
we know that Italians...

736
00:33:11,554 --> 00:33:13,730
- Mm.
- Basically eat Italian food.

737
00:33:13,774 --> 00:33:16,211
It's very hard to find anything
except Italian food.

738
00:33:16,255 --> 00:33:18,039
You might find
a French restaurant.

739
00:33:18,083 --> 00:33:19,345
You might find
a Japanese restaurant.

740
00:33:19,388 --> 00:33:21,825
It's not like other cultures.
- That's true.

741
00:33:21,869 --> 00:33:25,003
Actually, Venice is different
from the rest of Italy.

742
00:33:25,046 --> 00:33:26,569
- Is it?
- Yeah.

743
00:33:26,613 --> 00:33:30,138
We are saying, like, Venetians
are like people from south

744
00:33:30,182 --> 00:33:32,010
living in--
- In the north.

745
00:33:32,053 --> 00:33:33,228
Oh, really?
- Yeah.

746
00:33:33,272 --> 00:33:34,447
They're more open-minded?
- Yeah, yeah.

747
00:33:34,490 --> 00:33:35,448
- That's good.

748
00:33:35,491 --> 00:33:37,102
♪

749
00:33:37,145 --> 00:33:40,235
Hamed's feast is
a culinary United Nations,

750
00:33:40,279 --> 00:33:42,020
sights and scents
that underscore

751
00:33:42,063 --> 00:33:44,065
the traditional
Venetian openness

752
00:33:44,109 --> 00:33:45,806
to outside influences.

753
00:33:45,849 --> 00:33:48,069
♪

754
00:33:48,113 --> 00:33:50,898
I'm starving.
Yeah.

755
00:33:50,941 --> 00:33:54,032
Oh, my God.
Oh, my God!

756
00:33:54,075 --> 00:33:56,382
Wow.
Thank you.

757
00:33:59,820 --> 00:34:00,995
Yes.

758
00:34:05,739 --> 00:34:07,958
Mmm.
That's really good.

759
00:34:12,137 --> 00:34:13,703
Oh, I love that.

760
00:34:13,747 --> 00:34:15,270
With the lentils.

761
00:34:15,314 --> 00:34:16,663
Wow.

762
00:34:16,706 --> 00:34:18,969
There's a multiplicity
of flavors here.

763
00:34:19,013 --> 00:34:22,277
There's turmeric in the kabuli
and cardamom in the rice--

764
00:34:22,321 --> 00:34:26,064
tastes brought home to Venice
by Hamed's team.

765
00:34:34,855 --> 00:34:36,204
Mm-hmm.

766
00:34:37,858 --> 00:34:39,033
Right.

767
00:34:42,080 --> 00:34:43,211
Right, right.

768
00:34:43,255 --> 00:34:44,995
♪

769
00:34:45,039 --> 00:34:47,172
Your restaurant
attracts a lot of people.

770
00:34:47,215 --> 00:34:50,958
- 80% with the residents
and the students here

771
00:34:51,001 --> 00:34:53,352
and 20% with tourists.
- Right.

772
00:34:53,395 --> 00:34:55,180
- 'Cause we work a lot
with Venetians

773
00:34:55,223 --> 00:34:57,878
and really thank Venetians
that they are coming to us.

774
00:34:57,921 --> 00:34:59,619
- Yeah, that's great.
- Yeah.

775
00:34:59,662 --> 00:35:01,621
- This project will work
wherever there is

776
00:35:01,664 --> 00:35:04,232
a refugee population
who need a new start

777
00:35:04,276 --> 00:35:08,280
and where diners are open
to new experiences.

778
00:35:08,323 --> 00:35:12,675
And Venice has been
very accepting of you,

779
00:35:12,719 --> 00:35:14,155
accepting of your food?

780
00:35:14,199 --> 00:35:16,114
- I think we did
a good exchange.

781
00:35:16,157 --> 00:35:17,419
- Yeah.
- Yeah.

782
00:35:17,463 --> 00:35:21,162
And the other part--

783
00:35:21,206 --> 00:35:23,382
somehow, I am Venetian, too.

784
00:35:23,425 --> 00:35:24,861
- Yeah.

785
00:35:24,905 --> 00:35:26,776
- After 15 years, I have to say
that I am Venetian.

786
00:35:26,820 --> 00:35:27,995
- Of course.
Yeah.

787
00:35:28,038 --> 00:35:30,040
- And I'm proud of that.
- Yeah.

788
00:35:30,084 --> 00:35:33,870
Some Italian politicians see
the arrival of foreign food

789
00:35:33,914 --> 00:35:36,525
and the people who bring it
as a bad thing.

790
00:35:36,569 --> 00:35:40,312
I say adding new ingredients
just makes the stew richer.

791
00:35:40,355 --> 00:35:42,009
That's the Venetian way.

792
00:35:46,883 --> 00:35:48,798
[upbeat music]

793
00:35:48,842 --> 00:35:51,236
♪

794
00:35:51,279 --> 00:35:55,327
- There's a car coming.
I better hurry up.

795
00:35:55,370 --> 00:35:58,068
In medieval times,
the Veneto was larger,

796
00:35:58,112 --> 00:36:01,159
extending into what is today
the next-door neighbor

797
00:36:01,202 --> 00:36:03,813
of Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

798
00:36:03,857 --> 00:36:05,337
Here we are.

799
00:36:05,380 --> 00:36:08,209
We're in Friuli, a mile away
from the Slovenian border.

800
00:36:08,253 --> 00:36:11,081
This is northeast of Venice,

801
00:36:11,125 --> 00:36:14,302
and it's incredibly beautiful,
very lush.

802
00:36:14,346 --> 00:36:16,913
You're just not
gonna get all that fish

803
00:36:16,957 --> 00:36:18,480
that you get in Venice.

804
00:36:18,524 --> 00:36:21,222
When it was part
of the Venetian empire,

805
00:36:21,266 --> 00:36:23,093
this was
the overland entry point

806
00:36:23,137 --> 00:36:25,270
for goods
from the East and Asia,

807
00:36:25,313 --> 00:36:27,576
where spices entered Europe.

808
00:36:27,620 --> 00:36:30,579
For most of its history,
Friuli was Austrian

809
00:36:30,623 --> 00:36:33,539
and part of
the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

810
00:36:33,582 --> 00:36:37,673
All these influences have made
this very desirable crossroads

811
00:36:37,717 --> 00:36:39,719
a culinary gold mine.

812
00:36:45,159 --> 00:36:47,770
It's just so pretty.

813
00:36:47,814 --> 00:36:51,252
I've come to the restaurant
L'Argine a Venco

814
00:36:51,296 --> 00:36:53,211
to meet Chef Antonia Klugmann.

815
00:36:53,254 --> 00:36:54,777
- Welcome.

816
00:36:54,821 --> 00:36:57,215
- She has Polish, Jewish,
and Italian roots,

817
00:36:57,258 --> 00:36:58,390
and so do her menus.

818
00:36:58,433 --> 00:37:00,392
She's fusion personified.

819
00:37:00,435 --> 00:37:01,915
Thank you so much.

820
00:37:01,958 --> 00:37:03,612
- It's such a pleasure.
- No, it's a pleasure for me.

821
00:37:03,656 --> 00:37:06,920
Thank you, thank you.
Grazie. Grazie.

822
00:37:06,963 --> 00:37:08,530
- I want to show
the best part.

823
00:37:08,574 --> 00:37:10,358
For me,
the garden is important.

824
00:37:10,402 --> 00:37:12,926
- And this is where you grow
everything, but you use it.

825
00:37:12,969 --> 00:37:17,147
- Some of them are really here
to inspire me, you know?

826
00:37:17,191 --> 00:37:18,497
- Right.

827
00:37:18,540 --> 00:37:20,063
- And some of them
are for the guests.

828
00:37:20,107 --> 00:37:21,630
- Gorgeous.
- You know?

829
00:37:21,674 --> 00:37:23,328
- This is my favorite.

830
00:37:23,371 --> 00:37:26,287
- Chicory is a really
fundamental ingredient

831
00:37:26,331 --> 00:37:27,419
of Italian tastes,

832
00:37:27,462 --> 00:37:31,640
and I think
we can have some of them.

833
00:37:31,684 --> 00:37:33,425
- Oh, yeah.
- You know? For our kitchen.

834
00:37:33,468 --> 00:37:35,383
- Yeah, they're gorgeous.
Yeah.

835
00:37:35,427 --> 00:37:37,733
The restaurant
is a modernist gem

836
00:37:37,777 --> 00:37:40,475
in the fields--
remote but celebrated.

837
00:37:40,519 --> 00:37:41,998
It's got a Michelin star.

838
00:37:42,042 --> 00:37:44,174
Wow.
- Welcome in my kitchen.

839
00:37:44,218 --> 00:37:46,133
- Antonia wants me
to taste a dish

840
00:37:46,176 --> 00:37:47,613
her grandparents made for her,

841
00:37:47,656 --> 00:37:49,919
food that reflects
the cultural collision

842
00:37:49,963 --> 00:37:51,791
that defines this area.

843
00:37:51,834 --> 00:37:54,315
- I wanted to show you a dish

844
00:37:54,359 --> 00:37:57,318
that it's really
a comfort food for me--

845
00:37:57,362 --> 00:37:58,537
important to my family...

846
00:37:58,580 --> 00:38:00,539
- Yeah.
- Important to my region.

847
00:38:00,582 --> 00:38:02,410
And the goulash
really represent it all.

848
00:38:02,454 --> 00:38:04,412
- A goulash is what people

849
00:38:04,456 --> 00:38:07,415
would think
of a Hungarian recipe.

850
00:38:07,459 --> 00:38:09,722
- Austrian-Hungaric.
- Austria, yeah.

851
00:38:09,765 --> 00:38:11,332
- Austrian-Hungaric.

852
00:38:11,376 --> 00:38:15,380
So you put the base
of a normal tomato sauce,

853
00:38:15,423 --> 00:38:17,817
but you start from the garlic.

854
00:38:17,860 --> 00:38:19,732
So, when it's like this...

855
00:38:19,775 --> 00:38:22,169
[sizzling]
You put the tomato in.

856
00:38:22,212 --> 00:38:24,824
- Yeah.
- Now, you add the onions,

857
00:38:24,867 --> 00:38:28,480
and they will use
the water of the tomato

858
00:38:28,523 --> 00:38:32,266
to stew more gently, okay?

859
00:38:32,310 --> 00:38:34,747
- It's Austrian but in Italy.

860
00:38:34,790 --> 00:38:37,445
Goulash is usually made
with beef or lamb,

861
00:38:37,489 --> 00:38:40,274
but Antonia prefers
pork cheek.

862
00:38:41,754 --> 00:38:43,364
- Okay.
- That's really interesting.

863
00:38:43,408 --> 00:38:45,584
Okay.
- I prepare some red wine.

864
00:38:45,627 --> 00:38:50,023
I will add some of this here
and bay leaves,

865
00:38:50,066 --> 00:38:53,243
génépi, and black pepper.

866
00:38:53,287 --> 00:38:56,464
I will add it right away
to our sauce.

867
00:38:56,508 --> 00:38:57,639
Okay.
- Beautiful.

868
00:38:57,683 --> 00:38:58,640
- Like this.

869
00:38:58,684 --> 00:38:59,554
Another thing--

870
00:38:59,598 --> 00:39:01,730
the cumin, okay?
- Oh, cumin.

871
00:39:01,774 --> 00:39:05,865
- And the other spices that
I need here is the paprika.

872
00:39:05,908 --> 00:39:07,475
The sweet one...
- Mm-hmm.

873
00:39:07,519 --> 00:39:10,435
- And the spicy one--
a lot of it.

874
00:39:10,478 --> 00:39:11,566
- Wow.

875
00:39:11,610 --> 00:39:13,307
- So we use much more spices

876
00:39:13,351 --> 00:39:16,354
than other parts
of the north of Italy.

877
00:39:16,397 --> 00:39:17,616
- Sure.
- And that--

878
00:39:17,659 --> 00:39:19,182
- Because you're getting
the influence from--

879
00:39:19,226 --> 00:39:20,532
- From the port.
- Yeah.

880
00:39:20,575 --> 00:39:21,881
- You know?
- Yeah.

881
00:39:21,924 --> 00:39:23,665
- In the port, we received
all these influences

882
00:39:23,709 --> 00:39:27,626
from the Turkish world,
the Greeks, the Albanians...

883
00:39:27,669 --> 00:39:29,671
- Mm-hmm, mm-hmm.
- Croatians.

884
00:39:29,715 --> 00:39:33,327
- The last ingredient is
straight out of the wild East.

885
00:39:33,371 --> 00:39:36,286
- I've put some apricot,
the dried ones.

886
00:39:36,330 --> 00:39:38,463
- To use fruit
in Eastern Europe

887
00:39:38,506 --> 00:39:40,421
as part of the cooking
is very traditional.

888
00:39:40,465 --> 00:39:42,118
- Exactly. Exactly.
- Yeah.

889
00:39:42,162 --> 00:39:45,383
- And to help the tradition
along, something modern.

890
00:39:45,426 --> 00:39:47,167
Is it stewing or steaming?

891
00:39:47,210 --> 00:39:49,256
Whatever.
It's genius.

892
00:39:49,299 --> 00:39:51,954
- In this way,
it's perfectly hermetic.

893
00:39:51,998 --> 00:39:54,304
- Sealed.
- Yes, sealed.

894
00:39:54,348 --> 00:39:55,915
- I've never seen
anyone do that before.

895
00:39:55,958 --> 00:39:58,091
- [chuckles]

896
00:39:58,134 --> 00:40:01,529
Antonia's sister
and business partner Vittoria

897
00:40:01,573 --> 00:40:03,270
runs the restaurant.

898
00:40:03,313 --> 00:40:05,577
They keep the place intimate,
with just nine tables,

899
00:40:05,620 --> 00:40:07,883
but this afternoon,
there's ten--

900
00:40:07,927 --> 00:40:09,624
a chef's table.

901
00:40:09,668 --> 00:40:11,365
Oh, I thought
you'd never arrive.

902
00:40:11,409 --> 00:40:12,453
Hi.

903
00:40:12,497 --> 00:40:14,760
- Thank you.
- Wow.

904
00:40:14,803 --> 00:40:16,196
- Thank you.

905
00:40:16,239 --> 00:40:19,068
Let's eat our goulash

906
00:40:19,112 --> 00:40:22,942
with some veggies as a side.

907
00:40:22,985 --> 00:40:25,597
- The side dishes are made
with ingredients

908
00:40:25,640 --> 00:40:27,947
we harvested
from Antonia's garden--

909
00:40:27,990 --> 00:40:32,081
cavolo nero with beans,
chicory with lemon,

910
00:40:32,125 --> 00:40:37,173
and then the delicious leaves
of the zucchini plant.

911
00:40:37,217 --> 00:40:40,829
- I start always from the meat.

912
00:40:40,873 --> 00:40:42,744
Mmm.

913
00:40:42,788 --> 00:40:44,616
- Oh, my God.

914
00:40:44,659 --> 00:40:46,748
That cheek.
It's the guanciale.

915
00:40:46,792 --> 00:40:47,532
- Mm-hmm.
- Right?

916
00:40:47,575 --> 00:40:49,621
Oh, that's really good.

917
00:40:49,664 --> 00:40:52,537
This is delicious.
Delicious.

918
00:40:52,580 --> 00:40:55,191
- I'm happy that you love.
- I love it.

919
00:40:55,235 --> 00:40:59,457
It's the perfect mix of
so many different cultures...

920
00:40:59,500 --> 00:41:02,503
- Yes.
- Right in a bowl.

921
00:41:02,547 --> 00:41:07,508
- We have to tell the people
that Italy is not a cliché.

922
00:41:07,552 --> 00:41:11,077
Every region has many shades,

923
00:41:11,120 --> 00:41:12,818
and Friuli-Venezia Giulia

924
00:41:12,861 --> 00:41:17,605
is one of the most
interesting place to visit,

925
00:41:17,649 --> 00:41:19,781
because of this complexity.

926
00:41:19,825 --> 00:41:23,524
- And you've had a great impact
making people aware of that,

927
00:41:23,568 --> 00:41:27,920
because you have
this incredible restaurant.

928
00:41:27,963 --> 00:41:32,664
The rich fusion of tastes
in Friuli comes from geography

929
00:41:32,707 --> 00:41:35,405
and a history
of the citizens' openness

930
00:41:35,449 --> 00:41:37,625
to outside influences.

931
00:41:37,669 --> 00:41:39,540
But they weren't
the only ones.

932
00:41:39,584 --> 00:41:42,587
The Venetians, too,
relied on centuries of trade

933
00:41:42,630 --> 00:41:45,546
to create immense wealth
and global influence.

934
00:41:45,590 --> 00:41:47,548
♪

935
00:41:47,592 --> 00:41:51,334
Visiting the Veneto today,
we can still enjoy ingredients

936
00:41:51,378 --> 00:41:54,773
first brought home
by the merchants of Venice

937
00:41:54,816 --> 00:41:57,427
and eat the dishes
they created with them

938
00:41:57,471 --> 00:42:00,996
in their city by the sea...

939
00:42:01,040 --> 00:42:04,696
very clever people
with a taste for adventure.

